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You might expect the Historic Center of Athens to revolve around the Acropolis and Plaka, but that’s not the case.
Intro to the Historic Center of Athens
The Historic Center is the heart of 19th century Athens bounded by Ermou, Athinas, and Stadiou Streets. It forms a triangle with Syntagma Square, Monastiraki Square, and Omonoia Square at its corners. The area is also known as the Historic Triangle or Commercial Triangle. It’s full of great restaurants, bars, and cafés as well as boutique shops and other hidden gems. The area also boasts a wealth of Neoclassical buildings. Among the highlights not covered here are the Varvakeios Agora and the National Historical Museum.
Agia Irini Square
You can start exploring the Historic Center of Athens by walking north from Monastiraki, where you’ll find the lively Agia Irini Square. It’s located a block north of Ermou on Aiolou.
History of Agia Irini Square
Agia Irini Square has been an important place since the middle of the 19th century. Once the city’s flower market, it’s named for the Church of Saint Irene, the former metropolitan cathedral. The square as we see it today was laid out between 1855 and 1857 under Mayor Konstantinos Galatis (d. 1857). It’s surrounded by lots of beautiful Neoclassical buildings.
Today, Agia Irini Square is a popular meeting place surrounded by several outdoor restaurants and cafés. It can be difficult to find a table on some nights, but it’s a great place that always has lots of energy. It’s also perfect if you want to blend in with the locals.
Firsts in Athens
The first café in Athens with a pool table, the Café of Europe, opened across the street from the Church of Saint Irene in 1834. It was operated by the daughter of French philhellene François Robert, who was killed during the second siege of the Acropolis in 1827. The Parnassos Hotel moved into the upper floors in the middle of the 19th century. It was replaced by the hotel-restaurant Petroupolis, which was founded in 1834 and was one of the oldest restaurants in Athens, in 1884. If I’m correct, that building is now occupied by the Emporikon Hotel (if anyone knows for sure, please correct me if I’m wrong).
In 1839, a three-story building was built on the square. Professor G. Vouros installed a meteorological station and observatory on its roof, well before the National Observatory opened in Thiseio. In 1878, the building became the Hotel Byron. It’s one of the oldest buildings in Athens and is a protected landmark.
Church of Saint Irene
The Church of Saint Irene (Ιερός Ναός Αγίας Ειρήνης) is the centerpiece of Agia Irini Square. The namesake of the square is a beautiful structure that played a major role during the early years of the Greek state.
First Church
The original Church of Saint Irene was a 17th century structure that was part of the Penteli Monastery. It was seriously damaged during the Greek War of Independence and subsequently rebuilt.
When the capital of Greece moved from Nafplio to Athens, the church became the city’s metropolitan cathedral. It witnessed King Otto’s coming of age ceremony in 1835 and the funeral of national hero Theodoros Kolokotronis (1770-1843). Mayors of Athens were also sworn in there. Unfortunately, with the population more than tripling from 1834 to 1840, the first church was deemed too small for the growing needs of the city.
Current Church
In 1846, Greek architect Lysandros Kaftanzoglou (1811-1885) designed the current church and oversaw its construction. The church was consecrated in 1850 but the interior decorations weren’t completed until 1892.
The most important event hosted by the current Church of Saint Irene was the doxology for the granting of the autocephaly of the Church of Greece in 1850. It served as the cathedral until the current Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens was completed in 1862.
Architecture
The Church of Saint Irene is a three-aisled basilica with a dome and two bell towers. It has a columned narthex and a wooden roof. The gold-plated iconostasis was a gift from Tsar Nicholas II of Russia.
The iconography was done by Spyridon Hatzigiannopoulos (1820-1905). Important works include his painting of the teachings of Jesus in Jerusalem in the north transept and the teachings of Apostle Paul on the Areopagus in the south transept.
Stoa Pyrrou
Stoa Pyrrou is an arcade that runs from the southeast corner of Agia Irini Square to Ermou Street a block south. It’s the second oldest commercial arcade in Athens and one of the most elegant. It was built in 1885 on the site of the Louka Pyrrou House, hence the name.
Aiolou Street
Aiolou Street is pedestrianized from Ermou Street all the way north to Stadiou Street near Omonoia Square. The stretch from Agia Irini Square to Kotzia Square has a few points of interest along the way.
Panagia Chrysospileotissa
A few blocks north along Aiolou is Panagia Chrysospileotissa, or the Church of the Dormition of the Virgin Chrysospileotissa, which is one of the most well-known churches in the city. It’s a three-aisled basilica with two marble octagonal towers at either end of the narthex. It combines Neoclassical and Byzantine design elements.
The original Panagia Chrysospileotissa was built in 1705 and was destroyed during the Siege of the Acropolis under Reşid Mehmed Pasha (1780-1836) in 1826. In 1832, construction on a new church began, but it was halted when the locals realized it was too small for their needs. In 1846, the community started purchasing neighboring plots of land and gathered resources to fund the construction.
Greek architect Dimitrios Zezos (d. 1857) drew up the plans for the current church. Groundbreaking took place in 1863. Because Zezos died before the start of construction, Greek architect Panagis Kalkos (1818-1875) and later German architect Ernst Ziller (1837-1923), who probably also designed the iconostasis, oversaw the project.
Greek architect Dimitrios Soutsos (1845-1904), who was also mayor of Athens at the time, designed the dome. Due to lack of funds, which were covered mainly by donations from the community, construction wasn’t completed until 1892. The interior decoration was also completed the same year.
Church of Saint Paraskevi
In the shadow of Panagia Chrysospileotissa is the tiny Church of Saint Paraskevi. It was built during the Ottoman period and was initially a chapel of Panagia Chrysospileotissa. In 1762, it was given to the Monastery of Ossios Meletios Kithairona, and the monks of the monastery used it as a place to stay when they had to travel to Athens.
From 1883 to 1928 it became part of the Monastery of Faneromeni in Salamina. Since 1928, it has belonged once again to the Monastery of Ossios Meletios.
The Church of Saint Paraskevi was originally a single-aisled vaulted basilica. A small aisle was added on the north side, complete with a representation of Golgotha. The frescoes date to 1930.
Old Athens Stock Exchange
Just east of Aiolou on Sofokleous is the old Athens Stock Exchange, which was founded under Prime Minister Alexandros Koumoundouros (1815-1883) in 1876. Trading began on September 30, 1876, at the corner of Aiolou and Sofokleous, later moving to 11 Sofokleous from 1885 to 1891. On December 19, 1934, a new building was inaugurated at 8-10 Sofokleous. The Athens Stock Exchange was housed there until 2007, when it moved its headquarters to Metaxourgeio.
Kotzia Square
Further north is Kotzia Square (Πλατεία Κοτζιά), which is surrounded by Neoclassical buildings. It’s located in about halfway between Monastiraki Square and Omonoia Square.
History of Kotzia Square
Kotzia Square was laid out in 1874. It was originally named Loudovikou Square after Ludwig I, the King of Bavaria and father of King Otto of Greece. The Athens Municipal Theatre, which was designed by Ernst Ziller, was built there between 1873 and 1888, but it was demolished in 1939. The square was renamed in the 1960s after former mayor and Olympic fencer Konstantinos Kotzias (1892-1951). In 1977, it received its official name, National Resistance Square, but everyone still refers to it as Kotzia Square.
Kotzia Square has been an important location for sporting and cultural events. It was the starting point of the cycling trials for the 2004 Athens Olympics as well as a venue to watch the Euro 2004 Final which Greece won.
Theseus Sculpture
In the center of Kotzia Square is Theseus, a fountain sculpture by Greek artist Sophia Vari (1940-2023), the wife of Colombian artist Fernando Botero (1932-2023). It was unveiled in 1996.
Athens City Hall
The most important building on Kotzia Square is Athens City Hall, which sits on the west side. It was built between October 1872 and May 1874 by Panagis Kalkos. A third floor was added between 1935 and 1937. The entrance is through a Doric style marble propylon.
Statue of Pericles
Just north of City Hall is a statue of Pericles (c. 495 – 429 BC). It was sculpted by German artist Heinrich Faltermeier (1909-1999) in Carrara marble and was unveiled in 1973. The statue depicts a helmeted Pericles in a tunic. He’s holding a scroll and is about to deliver his famous Funeral Oration.
Drachma Monument
South of City Hall is a monument commemorating the drachma, which was the currency of modern Greece from May 1832 to January 1, 2002. The monument depicts a one drachma coin.
National Bank of Greece
On the east side of the square is the former National Bank of Greece headquarters. It consists of two structures completed in the 1840s merged together.
Melas Mansion
The imposing Melas Mansion sits at the southeast corner of the square. It was built in 1874 by Greek merchant Vasilios Melas (1819-1885) and was designed by Ernst Ziller. It was the largest and most expensive private building in Athens at the time of its completion. The building originally functioned as the Grand Hotel d’Athènes and for a short time in 1881 as the Athens Stock Exchange.
After Melas’ death in 1884, the building was bequeathed to the Vasilios Melas Foundation, which to this day aims at establishing and maintaining kindergartens. From 1900 to 1974, it functioned as the Athens Central Post Office, and since 1979 it has been property of the National Bank of Greece. The bank uses it as their cultural center and often hosts public events there.
Archaeological Site at Kotzia Square
The northeast corner of the square contains the most important part of an archaeological site discovered in 1985 during the construction of an underground parking garage. It’s one of the very few archaeological sites in the Historic Center of Athens. The entire site covered roughly 7,000 square meters and was excavated between 1985 and 1988. Additional excavations were carried out in 1998.
The site preserves an area just outside the ancient city walls of Athens. It includes part of the Acharnean Road, a cemetery used from the 9th century BC until the 3rd century, pottery workshops from the 3rd and 4th centuries, and homes.
The Acharnean Road was laid out around 480 BC and remodeled in the 4th century BC. The cemetery spanned both sides of the road and contained 672 graves. Among the finds were terracotta vases and figurines, glass vessels, gold jewelry, coins, and funerary monuments.
Over 30 pottery kilns were also discovered in the area. They sprung up after the Sack of Athens by the Heruli in 267. Two of the kilns still had the terracotta grills that held the vases during firing. The workshops produced vases, domestic utensils, lamps, and roof tiles.
Acharnean Gate
Finally, the modern building off the southeast corner of Kotzia Square was built atop the remains of the Acharnean Gate. Although the actual gate has yet to be found, the walls were probably part of the approach to the gate. They form part of a rampart and moat, and possibly the foundations of a tower. The building itself is the state-of-the-art administrative center for the National Bank of Greece.
Omonoia Square
Omonoia Square (Πλατεία Ομονοίας) is the historic heart of the modern city. It’s located at the northern end of the triangle making up the Historic Center of Athens.
Omonoia Square sits at the intersection of six major streets. Those streets are Panepistimiou, Stadiou, Athinas, Pireos, Agiou Konstantinou, and 3is Septemvriou.
History of Omonoia Square
Omonoia Square was originally an uneven area with vineyards, fig trees, fields, and streams. It was included in the first urban development plan of Athens in 1833 and was designed by Greek architect Stamatis Kleanthis (1802-1862) and German architect Eduard Schaubert (1804-1860).
The square was laid out in 1846 as Palace Square, since the royal palace of King Otto was supposed to be built there. Today’s Syntagma Square was chosen as a more suitable location, and the name was changed to Othonos Square in honor of King Otto. After Otto was deposed in 1862, opposition leaders met there and gave an oath of peace (omonoia) to stop hostilities. This oath gives the square its current name.
Today’s Omonoia Square looks drastically different than the square of the past. At the end of the 19th century, trees were planted throughout the square along with a platform in the center and lighting systems. It was surrounded by several hotels and was a popular meeting place.
From 1925 to 1930, with the construction of the railway between Piraeus and Athens, the square was redesigned from a square shape to a circle. In 1958, a fountain was added, but it was demolished in November 1992 for the construction of Line 2 of the Athens metro. From mid-2019 to February 2020, Omonoia Square went through another major renovation. A modern and environmentally friendly version of the 1958 fountain was erected and the new and improved square opened to the public on May 14, 2020.
Although Omonoia Square is not as romantic or prestigious as it once was, it’s a multicultural area that’s still used a place of gathering for Athenians. Greece’s victories in the 2004 Euro Final and EuroBasket 2005 were both celebrated there.
Pentakiklon
The Pentakiklon (Five Ring) sculpture was erected in the middle of Omonoia Square in 2001. It’s meant to spring into motion when water runs through it. The sculpture fell into neglect after 2008 but was repaired in 2020.
Megas Alexandros Hotel
The only buildings of note on Omonoia Square are two 19th century Neoclassical hotels on either side of Athinas Street. They were both designed by German architect Ernst Ziller (1837-1923). First, on the west side is the former Megas Alexandros Hotel, which was built in 1889.
Bagkeion
The Bagkeion sits on the east side. It was built between 1890 and 1894 and operated as a hotel until 1969. It sits on the site of the home of Greek Prime Minister Charilaos Trikoupis (1832-1896), who lived there until 1883.
Loumidis Coffee Roasters
A block east of Omonoia Square at the corner of Aiolou and Panepistimiou is the Loumidis Coffee Roasters. The most well-known coffee company in Greece, they’ve been a family-owned business since 1920 and have had a presence at Omonoia Square since 1928.
Immediately upon entering the store, you”ll be overcome by the magnificent aroma of freshly roasted coffee. There’s a wide variety of coffee, both Greek and otherwise, as well as a good selection of chocolates, sweets, and teas. Staff is friendly and helpful.
Safety at Omonoia Square
Although there’s been a revival as of late, the area around Omonoia Square has a reputation for crime, drugs, and prostitution. It’s safe during the day, but there’s no reason for a visitor to be lingering in the streets around the square late at night when it should be avoided.
Klafthmonos Square
Finally, about halfway between Omonoia Square and Syntagma Square along Stadiou Street is Klafthmonos Square (Πλατεία Κλαυθμώνος). It’s another scenic square in the Historic Center of Athens.
History of Klafthmonos Square
Klafthmonos Square was designed in the 19th century by German architect Leo von Klenze (1784-1864), who submitted plans for the city at the request of King Otto. The proposed name was Aeschylus Square, but it was simply called Mint Square because the Mint Building was there at the time. In 1838, the city’s first Greek Independence Day celebrations took place in the square, and it was renamed 25 March Square. The name Republic Square later took its place.
In 1878, the square took its current name, which translates to Weeping Square, thanks to a column by Greek writer Dimitrios Kambouroglou (1852-1942) in the Estia newspaper. After every election, the new governing party would fire civil servants employed by the previous government and hire its own voters. The fired workers would gather in front of the Ministry of Finance, which had moved into the former Mint Building, to protest their dismissal and lament their unemployment. The Ministry of Finance later moved to another location and the building was demolished in 1940.
In 1989, Klafthmonos Square was officially renamed National Reconciliation Square after the unveiling of an eponymous sculpture by Greek artist Vasils Doropoulos. Nobody uses that name, and Athenians still refer to it as Klafthmonos Square.
Ancient City Walls
In the southwest corner of the square are the remains of the so-called Proteichisma, which was discovered during the construction of an underground parking garage between 1972 and 1974. It was added to the Themistoclean Wall in the 4th century BC. The wall was about 1 ½ meters thick and sat about 6 ½ meters from the Themistoclean Wall. In front of the wall was a moat measuring ten meters wide and 11 meters deep, acting as the first line of defense.
The part of the Proteichisma seen in the square was disassembled and reinstalled at ground level. The rest of the wall and a section of the Themistoclean Wall, which was found in poor condition, is visible in the parking garage.
Bust of Vlasis Gavriilidis
Near the wall is a bust of Vlasis Gavriilidis (1848-1920). He was a prominent Greek journalist who played an influential role in the highly controversial Greek Language Question. In the 19th and 20th centuries, there was a fierce battle over what should be the official language of Greece. The candidates were Demotic Greek, the people’s language, and Katharevousa, a conservative combination of ancient Greek and modern vernacular. Gavriilidis was a staunch supporter of Demotic Greek, which became the official language in 1976.
Athens City Museum
On the south side of the square is the Athens City Museum. It’s situated in two of the city’s oldest buildings, including King Otto’s first palace. Founded by Greek politician Lambros Eftaxias (1915-1996), it opened to the public in 1980 and displays items related to the development of modern Athens.
Visiting Info
The Athens City Museum is open daily except Tuesdays. Adult admission is 5€ (as of July 2023). Photography is forbidden inside.
Old Palace
The building on the left is a Neoclassical mansion commissioned by Stamatios Dekozis Vouros (1792-1881), a wealthy banker from Chios. It was designed by German architect Gustav Adolf Lüders and Hungarian architect Joseph Hoffer and constructed between 1833 and 1834. King Otto and Queen Amalia lived in the mansion until the Royal Palace (now Hellenic Parliament) was completed on Syntagma Square in 1843. A covered bridge connected the mansion to two buildings that no longer exist. Present-day Klafthmonos Square became the royal garden by order of Queen Amalia.
Konstantinos Vouros Mansion
Dekozis Vouros built a second mansion to the right of the palace for his son, Konstantinos. It was designed by Greek military engineer Gerasimos Metaxas in 1859. The appearance was radically altered during renovations in 1916 under Greek architect Anastasios Helmis.
Collection
The museum houses exhibits related to the reign of King Otto, including period furniture, paintings, and works by travelers to Athens. There’s also a scale model of Athens in 1842 accompanied by maps and drawings. Highlights include King Otto’s and Queen Amalia’s sitting rooms; the drawing room in the Konstantinos Vouros Mansion; and the desk on which the first constitution of Greece was signed. Another highlight is the largest painting of Athens ever created, by French painter Jacques Carrey (1649-1726), in 1674. It measures 260 x 520 centimeters. The upper floor of the palace contains rotating temporary exhibits.
My Thoughts
To be honest, I was a little disappointed in the Athens City Museum. I expected more history and artifacts related to modern Athens than mostly period furniture and paintings. What I saw was interesting, especially items related to King Otto and Queen Amalia, but I felt like something was missing. Also, there wasn’t enough information listed in the museum and half the time I didn’t know what I was looking at. All in all, it’s worth visiting only if you want to see what the first “palace” of Greece was like and some impressive works of art.
Branch of the National Bank of Greece
Finally, on the northeast corner of the square along Stadiou is an impressive branch of the National Bank of Greece. It was founded in 1841 and was the first bank in modern Greece. Its headquarters are a few blocks away on Kotzia Square.
