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Hierapolis (Ἱεράπολις) is an ancient city and UNESCO World Heritage site atop the travertine terraces of Pamukkale in Turkey. The closest town is Pamukkale.

 

History of Hierapolis

Hierapolis, meaning Holy City, was founded as a resort town in the 2nd century BC, most likely by Eumenes II, the King of Pergamon. There was originally a temple built at the site by the Phrygians around the first half of the 7th century BC.

Hierapolis has been a tourist destination for thousands of years. Ancient Greeks and Romans were drawn to the city for the natural healing powers of the water. Many people would travel there to heal their ailments, retire, or die.

Hierapolis was bequeathed to the Roman Empire by King Attalus III in 133 BC. It grew to be very wealthy and had about 100,000 inhabitants. It was an important center for the arts, philosophy, and trade. Also, the citizens of Hierapolis had the luxury of having hot water piped directly into their homes.

The city became an important Christian center from the 1st century through the Byzantine era. Apostle Philip was crucified there in 80 AD, and early Christians turned the Roman baths into a church.

Hierapolis was devastated by an earthquake in the early 7th century and later by Persian invasions. In the 12th century, it was conquered by the Seljuks before the Crusaders under Frederick Barbarossa captured it in 1190. The city was abandoned around 1220 until a new settlement popped up shortly after. The site was permanently abandoned in the late 14th century.

Hierapolis in Pamukkale, Turkey
Hierapolis

 

Excavations at Hierapolis

Hierapolis was rediscovered by Raymond Chandler in 1765. It was excavated for the first time by German archaeologist Carl Humann (1839-1896) in June and July 1887. Italian archaeologists led by Paolo Verzone (1902-1986) began more thorough excavations in 1957. Excavations and restoration of the site is ongoing.

Due to the slow progress of restoration as well as the devastating effects of earthquakes and fires over the centuries, the city isn’t as spectacular as other ancient cities like Ephesus or even Laodicea. Also, many of the statues and other treasures were transported to museums outside of Turkey.

 

Visiting Hierapolis and Pamukkale

Hierapolis is open daily. Admission is 700₺ (as of September 2023) and includes access to the travertine terraces of Pamukkale as well as the Hierapolis Museum.

South entrance

There are three entrances to the site. One is in the town of Pamukkale at the bottom of the terraces. The north and south entrances are at the top and accessible by car. There are also plenty of tourist facilities at the site. Most people are going to congregate in the center of the site at Pamukkale, the Antique Pool, and the theatre. If you explore to the areas to the north and south, including the necropolis and Frontinus Street, you’ll likely have those areas to yourself.

Lower entrance to Pamukkale and Hierapolis
Tourist facilities at the south entrance

 

Organization of this Post

Hierapolis is a huge archaeological site. There’s a lot to see. I’ll start this post at the north entrance at the Northern Necropolis. From there, I’ll work my way south through the site, covering all the important features in a somewhat organized manner until I reach the south entrance.

 

Northern Necropolis

The necropolis of the ancient city of Hierapolis is the largest in Turkey and one of the best preserved in the world. It spreads out from the city walls to the north, east, and south.

Hierapolis Necropolis
Hierapolis Necropolis
Hierapolis Necropolis
Hierapolis Necropolis

 

Features of the Hierapolis Necropolis

The Hierapolis Necropolis extends for over two kilometers and contains over 1,200 tombs. Most of the tombs have been excavated, and the northern necropolis, which is just inside the north entrance, is the best place to see them. It can also be reached by walking north from the Hierapolis Museum or Antique Pool past Frontinus Street.

Hierapolis Necropolis
Hierapolis Necropolis
Hierapolis Necropolis
Hierapolis Necropolis
Tombs with sarcophagi on top
Tombs with sarcophagi on top
Tomb at the Hierapolis Necropolis
Tomb

The majority of the tombs were built during the Hellenistic period, with the oldest dating back to the 1st and 2nd century BC. There are also several tombs from the Roman and Early Christian period. Local limestone and marble were used in their construction.

Tomb 110 at the Hierapolis Necropolis
Tomb 110
Sarcophagus on a platform
Sarcophagus on a platform

The tombs in the necropolis belonged to both residents of Hierapolis as well as people who came to the city for medical treatment or simply to retire and die. All different kinds of styles were used in their design.

Tombs at the Hierapolis Necropolis
Tombs
Sarcophagi on a platform
Sarcophagi on a platform
Monumental tomb
Monumental tomb

Many of the tombs contain curses meant to deter grave robbers. This clearly didn’t work because most tombs have been plundered throughout the years. Other tombs were surrounded by travertine which has disappeared over time. I can imagine it was quite magical to see all of these marble tombs sitting among the white travertine.

Tomb 123 at the Hierapolis Necropolis
Tomb 123
Large family tomb at the Hierapolis Necropolis
Large family tomb

 

Types of Tombs

According to archaeologists, there were four different types of tombs in the necropolis. The first were simple graves for common people. They were simple sarcophagi or tombs carved directly into the rock.

Simple sarcophagus
Simple sarcophagus

The second are sarcophagi decorated with reliefs and containing the names and professions of their occupants. Some were raised on a platform or sat atop other monumental tombs.

Sarcophagus at the Hierapolis Necropolis
Sarcophagus
High platform topped by a sarcophagus at the Hierapolis Necropolis
High platform topped by a sarcophagus
Sarcophagi with Greek inscriptions at the Hierapolis Necropolis
Sarcophagi with Greek inscriptions

A third type include circular mounds covered with grass. They contain passageways leading to a vaulted chamber inside. These are usually located on the slope of the hill and are the oldest tombs at the necropolis.

Circular mound tombs at the Hierapolis Necropolis
Circular mound tombs
Circular mound tomb
Circular mound tomb

The fourth and final type are large monumental family tombs often resembling a temple. They belonged to the wealthiest citizens.

Monumental type tomb
Monumental type tomb
Monumental type tomb
Monumental type tomb
Greek inscription on a monumental type tomb at the Hierapolis Necropolis
Greek inscription on a monumental type tomb
Monumental type tomb
Monumental type tomb

 

Notable Tombs

The last time I walked through the northern necropolis at Hierapolis was November 2011. At that time, there was very little information about the more interesting tombs. Since then, detailed information has been added to enhance the visitor experience. I had a chance to see these improvements on my most recent visit to the city in November 2023 and will update this post when I have time.

Tomb 114 at the Hierapolis Necropolis
Tomb 114
Inscription atop Tomb 114 at the Hierapolis Necropolis
Inscription atop Tomb 114

One of the more interesting tombs is Tomb A6, which was built in the 1st or 2nd century. It was a large structure with a few sarcophagi placed inside. One of the sarcophagi is decorated with a unique pattern.

Tomb A6 at the Hierapolis Necropolis
Tomb A6
Inside Tomb A6 at the Hierapolis Necropolis
Inside Tomb A6

Tombs 56 and 81 are both monumental tombs with a burial chamber inside. Each also had two sarcophagi resting on top.

Tomb 56 at the Hierapolis Necropolis
Tomb 56
Tomb 81 at the Hierapolis Necropolis
Tomb 81

 

Basilica Bath

Near the end of the northern necropolis is the Basilica Bath. It sits outside the city walls and was built in the early 3rd century. At that time, visitors were required to clean themselves before entering the city in order to prevent the spread of disease.

Basilica Bath in Hierapolis
Basilica Bath
Basilica Bath
Basilica Bath

The bath was eventually turned into a Christian basilica some time in the 5th century. This was done by adding an apse to the building. The bath had vaulted ceilings and the walls were decorated with marble slabs.

Basilica Bath
Basilica Bath

 

Frontinus Street

After passing the Basilica Bath, you’ll come to Frontinus Street, which was the main street running through the ancient city of Hierapolis. It ran from north to south the entire length of the city.

Frontinus Street in Hierapolis
Frontinus Street

Frontinus Street was named for Sextus Julius Frontinus (c. 40-103), a Roman civil engineer and proconsul of Asia from 84 to 86 AD. Only the northern portion of the street has been fully excavated. Several important buildings lie along this stretch of the road.

Frontinus Street looking north in Hierapolis
Frontinus Street looking north
Columns along Frontinus Street
Columns along Frontinus Street

 

Frontinus Gate

The official entrance to Hierapolis was the Frontinus Gate. It was a triumphal arch built by Frontinus in 84 AD. The gate was made of travertine blocks and has three arches. Circular towers on either side are in the style of Hellenistic city gates.

Outside of the Frontinus Gate
Outside of the Frontinus Gate
Arches of the Frontinus Gate
Arches of the Frontinus Gate
Inside of the Frontinus Gate in Hierapolis
Inside of the Frontinus Gate

 

Latrine

Just inside the gate on the east side of the street is the latrine. It was built in the 1st century and has a row of columns separating two rooms. The latrine was available free of charge to citizens of Hierapolis.

Latrine on Frontinus Street in Hierapolis
Latrine
Outer room of the latrine
Outer room of the latrine

In the inner room of the latrine, it’s possible to see the channel where waste was flushed out to the sewers. Another channel with clean water ran in front of the wastewater channel.

Inner room of the latrine on Frontinus Street in Hierapolis
Inner room of the latrine

 

North Byzantine Gate

Further along Frontinus Street is the North Byzantine Gate. It was constructed as part of a new fortification system under Emperor Theodosius I in the late 4th century. It’s a monumental gate built of material recycled from the agora. The symmetrical South Byzantine Gate sits on the south side of the city.

Looking south towards the North Byzantine Gate on Frontinus Street in Hierapolis
Looking south towards the North Byzantine Gate
South façade of the North Byzantine Gate on Frontinus Street in Hierapolis
South façade of the North Byzantine Gate

The North Byzantine Gate is flanked by two square towers. Marble brackets with the heads of lions, a panther, and a gorgon were founded on the ground in front of the gate. A partially reconstructed unmarked building sits to the north of the gate. It may have been a shop or a private residence.

Cross on the keystone of the North Byzantine Gate
Cross on the keystone of the North Byzantine Gate
Partially reconstructed building on Frontinus Street
Partially reconstructed building

 

Nymphaeum of the Tritons

Just past the gate on the east side of the street is what remains of the Nymphaeum of the Tritons. It received its name from the carvings of fish-like creatures found in the ruins. The nymphaeum was built between 220 and 222, and its marble façade collapsed into the pool during an earthquake in the middle of the 7th century.

Nymphaeum of the Tritons on Frontinus Street in Hierapolis
Nymphaeum of the Tritons
Nymphaeum of the Tritons on Frontinus Street in Hierapolis
Nymphaeum of the Tritons

Stretching for 65 meters along Frontinus Street, it’s one of the longest nymphaea ever discovered  in the Roman world. It consists of a large pool fronted by a marble balustrade and two niched towers at either end. Archaeologists believe it had three tiers of columns.

North tower on the Nymphaeum of the Tritons
North tower
South tower on the Nymphaeum of the Tritons
South tower

 

Bath

Across from the Nymphaeum of the Tritons are the remains of a bath. It was made of travertine blocks and was destroyed by an earthquake in the 4th century. A residential area was built atop the ruins in the 11th century.

Baths on Frontinus Street
Baths

 

Hierapolis Cathedral

Finally, at the southern end of the excavated section of Frontinus Street is the Hierapolis Cathedral. It was built in the early 6th century and consisted of a nave with two aisles separated by two rows of columns. You can make out the synthronon in the apse.

Hierapolis Cathedral
Hierapolis Cathedral
Hierapolis Cathedral on Frontinus Street in Hierapolis
Hierapolis Cathedral

The cathedral opened onto Frontinus Street via an atrium and narthex. On the right side of the narthex was a baptistry with a circular baptismal font.

Atrium and narthex of the Hierapolis Cathedral
Atrium and narthex
Columns of the baptistry of the Hierapolis Cathedral
Columns of the baptistry
Architectural fragment with a relief of a cross from the Hierapolis Cathedral
Architectural fragment with a relief of a cross

 

South Side of Frontinus Street

The rest of Frontinus Street is unexcavated or unrestored. It runs all the way to the South Roman Gate on the southern walls of the city.

Unrestored section of Frontinus Street
Unrestored section of Frontinus Street

 

Agora of Hierapolis

The agora of Hierapolis was the city’s center of trade and commerce. It was laid out in its current position after an earthquake in 60 AD caused a landslide to level a large part of the town to the east of Frontinus Street and the Nymphaeum of the Tritons. It was one of the largest public agoras in Anatolia, measuring 170 x 280 meters.

Agora in Hierapolis
Agora
Agora and Frontinus Street
Agora and Frontinus Street

The most important trading activity in Hierapolis was held in the agora, mainly for textiles and marble. Unfortunately, hardly anything remains of the agora. Most of its building materials were plundered for use in other structures. A sole column stands in the center.

Agora in Hierapolis
Agora
Agora in Hierapolis
Agora
Column at the Agora in Hierapolis
Column

 

Byzantine Church

Just north of the agora is a small Byzantine church. Only the foundation remain and it’s not very exciting.

Byzantine church in Hierapolis
Byzantine church

 

Suburban Theatre

If you look up in the hill to the east of the church, you’ll notice the seats of an unexcavated theatre. The Suburban Theatre was located outside the city walls and was built right into the hillside.

Suburban Theatre
Suburban Theatre
Seats from the Suburban Theatre in Hierapolis
Seats from the Suburban Theatre

 

Eastern Necropolis

I encountered more of the city’s huge necropolis while walking between the Martyrium of Saint Philip and the agora. The path is littered with tombs although they are much more spread out. Many have Greek inscriptions on them.

Tomb in the eastern necropolis of Hierapolis
Tomb
Greek inscription on a tomb in the eastern necropolis
Greek inscription on a tomb
Tomb in the eastern necropolis
Tomb
Interior of the tomb in the eastern necropolis
Interior of the tomb
Row of tombs in the eastern necropolis of Hierapolis
Row of tombs

The tombs and sarcophagi in this eastern part of the necropolis are not as spectacular as the tombs you can see in the northern part, but they’re still interesting.

Path between the Agora and Martyrium of Saint Philip
Path between the Agora and Martyrium of Saint Philip
Tombs scattered on a hillside in the eastern necropolis
Tombs scattered on a hillside
Tomb in the eastern necropolis
Tomb
Tomb in the eastern necropolis of Hierapolis
Tomb
Greek inscription on the tomb in the eastern necropolis of Hierapolis
Greek inscription on the tomb

 

Martyrium (Martyrion) of Saint Philip

The Martyrium (Latin) or Martyrion (Greek) of Saint Philip is one of the most important areas of Hierapolis. It’s the spot where Apostle Philip was crucified in the 2nd half of the 1st century. It sits outside the city walls and is an important site for Christian pilgrims.

Path to the Martyrium of Saint Philip in Hierapolis
Path to the Martyrium of Saint Philip

 

Path to the Martyrium of Saint Philip

The path to the Martyrium of Saint Philip is a long walk from the rest of the ruins at Hierapolis. The Pilgrim’s Path (see below), which was the main path leading up to the Martyrium, starts at a spot north of the Temple of Apollo. You can also get there by walking east through the agora, or by taking a path that leads north from the theatre. On my last visit to the Martyrium in November 2011, I took the path from the theatre. A few sarcophagi and tombs littered the road.

Path to the Martyrium of Saint Philip
Path to the Martyrium of Saint Philip
Sarcophagus on the path to the Martyrium of Saint Philip
Sarcophagus
Greek inscription on the sarcophagus on the path to the Martyrium of Saint Philip
Greek inscription on the sarcophagus

 

Saint Philip’s Bridge

As you near the Martyrium, there’s a modern bridge crossing over a gorge. This is the spot where Saint Philip’s Bridge once stood. Only the foundations of the original bridge remain today. The new bridge hadn’t been constructed at the time of my last visit. Also, the break in the walls is probably where the Gate of Saint Philip once stood. It was built in the late 4th century under Theodosius I.

Saint Phillip's Bridge in Hierapolis
Saint Phillip’s Bridge
Saint Phillip's Bridge
Saint Phillip’s Bridge

 

Pilgrim’s Path

Immediately after crossing the bridge is the last section of the Pilgrim’s Path, also known as Saint Philip’s Road. It’s a 4th century stairway leading up to the top of the hill where the Martyrium and church are located.

Pilgrim's Path in Hierapolis
Pilgrim’s Path
Stairs on the Pilgrim's Path in Hierapolis
Stairs on the Pilgrim’s Path
Looking back down to towards the city from the Pilgrim's Path
Looking back down to towards the city from the Pilgrim’s Path

 

Purification Building

Immediately to the left at the bottom of the stairway are the ruins of an octagonal building that was once thought to be a bath. Due to the number of religious objects found inside, it’s now believed to have served as a place of purification for pilgrims. It’s also important to note that baptistries and many churches were often built on octagonal plans. The octagon represents resurrection and eternal life in Christianity

Purification building
Purification building
Purification building
Purification building

 

Pilgrim’s Fountain

Near the top of the steps is the Pilgrim’s Fountain, which was built in the 6th century. Pilgrims could refresh themselves by washing or drinking water from the fountain after the long walk up to the Martyrium of Saint Philip. The fountain was in ruins at the time of my last visit but has since been restored.

Pilgrim's Fountain at the Martyrium of Saint Philip in Hierapolis
Pilgrim’s Fountain

 

Church of the Sepulchre

A few steps from the fountain to the right is the Church of the Sepulchre. It was discovered in 2011 and was still under restoration and closed to the public at the time of my last visit. The Church of the Sepulchre dates back to the 5th century and was built directly over the tomb of Apostle Philip.

Church of the Sepulchre at the Martyrium of Saint Philip
Church of the Sepulchre

The Church of the Sepulchre was a three-aisled basilica. The tomb of Apostle Philip sat on the left aisle and was built of stone in the late 1st century. The interior has a horseshoe-shaped bench and was decorated with frescoes. The tomb was found empty because the remains had been transported to Constantinople (now Istanbul) and onto Rome at some point.

Church of the Sepulchre at the Martyrium of Saint Philip in Hierapolis
Church of the Sepulchre

The synthronon is clearly visible in the apse of the church. A shaft leading to an underground chamber was discovered in front of it. The chamber may have been used as a reliquary or burial chamber.

Apse and synthronon of the Church of the Sepulchre at the Martyrium of Saint Philip in Hierapolis
Apse and synthronon

 

Remains of the Martyrium of Saint Philip

A set of stairs to the left of the Pilgrim’s Fountain led up to the Martyrium of Saint Philip. Note the rectangular rooms on the outside of the Martyrium. They were used to house pilgrims.

Martyrium of Saint Philip in Hierapolis
Martyrium of Saint Philip
Martyrium of Saint Philip
Martyrium of Saint Philip
Pilgrim's rooms at the Martyrium of Saint Philip
Pilgrim’s rooms

Walking through the Martyrium of Saint Philip, the octagonal shape of the church becomes obvious. The arched piers on the outer circle supported the roof. All of the walls were once covered with marble panels.

Arched pier at the Martyrium of Saint Philip
Arched pier
Chi rho symbol on the keystone of an arch at the Martyrium of Saint Philip in Hierapolis
Chi rho symbol on the keystone of an arch

In the center of the Martyrium is a rectangle of white stones on the ground. They mark the chancel, which was once topped by a wooden dome covered with lead. The bases of the travertine columns around it supported the dome.

Chancel at the Martyrium of Saint Philip in Hierapolis
Chancel

The Martyrium was built in the 5th century and, as previously mentioned, was the spot where Apostle Philip was crucified. According to Christian tradition, Philip had managed to convert the wife of a high-ranking Roman official. The official was so enraged that he had Philip tortured and crucified him upside down.

Martyrium of Saint Philip in Hierapolis
Martyrium of Saint Philip
Martyrium of Saint Philip in Hierapolis
Martyrium of Saint Philip

 

Hierapolis Theatre

The Hierapolis Theatre is one of the finest in Anatolia. It’s a slight walk uphill from the museum and Antique Pool.

Hierapolis Theatre
Hierapolis Theatre

 

History of the Hierapolis Theatre

The original Hierapolis Theatre was built in the 2nd century during the reign of Roman Emperor Hadrian. It was designed as a Greek theatre, with the seating constructed directly into a hillside.

Hierapolis Theatre from the south
Hierapolis Theatre from the south

The scaenae frons, or stage background, was replaced in the beginning of the 3rd century during the reign of Septimius Severus. The seating was also upgraded from limestone to marble, and the orchestra was adapted to allow for gladiator and animal fights. In 352, it was further adapted to allow for aquatic shows. The theatre collapsed in the 7th century during an earthquake.

Hierapolis Theatre
Hierapolis Theatre

 

Architecture of the Hierapolis Theatre

The Hierapolis Theatre has a 91-meter long façade. There are 50 rows of seats divided by a main aisle, which could be accessed via two vaulted passages. An imperial loge sits in the center, and a wall nearly two meters high surrounds the orchestra. The theatre had a capacity of about 15,000.

Façade of the Hierapolis Theatre
Façade
Vaulted passageway at the Hierapolis Theatre
Vaulted passageway
Imperial loge of the Hierapolis Theatre
Imperial loge

The stage was 3.7 meters high and had five doors and six niches. In front were ten marble columns. The scaenae frons was a monumental three-story structure flanked by two side buildings.

Stage of the Hierapolis Theatre
Stage
Scaenae frons of the Hierapolis Theatre
Scaenae frons
Side entrance to the stage of the Hierapolis Theatre
Side entrance to the stage

The scaenae frons was decorated with sculptural reliefs, statues of deities, and dedicatory inscriptions. The originals are on display in the Hierapolis Museum and copies have been used in the reconstruction.

Scaenae frons of the Hierapolis Theatre
Scaenae frons
Replica relief on the scaenae frons of the Hierapolis Theatre
Replica relief
Statue on the scaenae frons of the Hierapolis Theatre
Statue

 

Reconstruction of the Hierapolis Theatre

Between 2009 and 2014, the first tier of the scaenae frons was reconstructed by Italian and Turkish archaeologists. First, 3,000 marble blocks found during excavations were analyzed and arranged on platforms to the west of the theatre. They were cleaned and repaired, and missing fragments were filled in with a different type of marble in order to easily distinguish it from the original marble. Copies of reliefs and statues were added, and the entire structure was then stabilized against earthquakes. The theatre is now used for performances.

Hierapolis Theatre in November 2011
Hierapolis Theatre in November 2011
Hierapolis Theatre in June 2022
Hierapolis Theatre in June 2022

 

House with Ionic Capitals

Just downhill from the theatre is the House with Ionic Capitals. It was closed to the public during all of my visits. I hope to see it open on my next visit to the city. I’ll add more information about it soon.

House with the Ionic Capitals
House with the Ionic Capitals

 

Temple of Apollo

Further downhill is the Temple of Apollo. It was an important shrine in Hierapolis and is near a number of other significant ruins.

Temple of Apollo at Hierapolis
Temple of Apollo

The Temple of Apollo was originally built during the Hellenistic period and is the oldest religious building in Hierapolis. It was rebuilt in the 3rd century and functioned until it was closed by Christians in the 4th century. It was completely destroyed by earthquakes in the 6th century.

Temple of Apollo at Hierapolis
Temple of Apollo

The Temple of Apollo was about 70 meters long and surrounded by a marble portico on the south, west, and north. The back of the temple to the east was built against a hill.

Temple of Apollo at Hierapolis
Temple of Apollo
Greek inscription mentioning Apollo at the Temple of Apollo
Greek inscription mentioning Apollo
Column at the Temple of Apollo at Hierapolis
Column

 

Temple Nymphaeum

In front of the Temple of Apollo was the Temple Nymphaeum. It was built in the 3rd century and also distributed water to nearby houses using a complex network of pipes.

Temple Nymphaeum at the Temple of Apollo at Hierapolis
Temple Nymphaeum

The nymphaeum is on a U-shaped plan surrounding a large basin. The older lower part was made of travertine blocks while the upper part was made of pieces recycled from other buildings. The niches held busts of gods and goddesses.

Temple Nymphaeum at the Temple of Apollo at Hierapolis
Temple Nymphaeum

Once located inside the sacred area of the temple, the Byzantines built a wall at the back of the nymphaeum to block views of the temple. This occurred in the 5th century.

Wall of the Temple Nymphaeum
Wall
Steps in front of the Temple Nymphaeum
Steps

 

Plutonium

The Plutonium, or Pluto’s Gate, was a sacred area a few steps south of the Temple of Apollo. It was built over a cave that emitted toxic gases caused by underground seismic activity. Because the gas was lethal, locals believed it was created by Pluto, the god of the underworld.

Plutonium at the Temple of Apollo at Hierapolis
Plutonium

During the earliest years of Hierapolis, castrated priests of Cybele would crawl into the Plutonium and either hold their breath or find pockets of oxygen. They would then crawl out to show they were immune to the gas and had divine protection.

The priests would sell birds and other small animals to visitors so they could test the lethal properties of the gas. Visitors were also able to ask questions of Pluto’s oracle for a fee. These activities raised a significant amount of money for the temple. Later, during the early Christian period, the Plutonium was walled off and wasn’t rediscovered until Italian archaeologists conducted excavations in 1965.

 

Recent Developments at the Plutonium

I would like to mention some exciting developments at the Plutonium. During my first visit to Hierapolis in November 2011, almost the entire area was open to the public and I was able to wander around the ruins. Most of the photos in this entry are from that visit.

One of the ruins near the Temple of Apollo
One of the ruins

During my most recent visits in June 2022 and November 2023, almost everything was surrounded by an enclosure and it looked like archaeologists have been working on some partial reconstructions. The main part of the Plutonium has been reopened with new interpretive panels and walkways, and there were newly reconstructed columns that hadn’t been there on my first visit in 2011. More sections around it are yet to be opened, and I’ll update this post with new pictures and updated information as soon as I have a chance.

New work at the Plutonium
New work

 

Section of Frontinus Street?

A few steps in front of the Plutonium are a few more ruined buildings and what looks to be a section of a colonnaded street. My guess is that it’s part of Frontinus Street. On my first visit there was no information posted, and as I mentioned earlier the entire area was closed on my most recent visit. Once again, I hope to see the results of reconstruction and get some more information on a future visit.

Colonnade in Hierapolis
Colonnade
Colonnade in Hierapolis
Colonnade

 

Church with Pillars

Walking south from the colonnade is the Church with Pillars. No detailed information was available at the time, but the church dates back to the 6th century during the Byzantine period.

Church with Pillars in Hierapolis
Church with Pillars
Church with Pillars in Hierapolis
Church with Pillars
Arches on the Church with Pillars
Arches
Church with Pillars
Church with Pillars
Church with Pillars
Church with Pillars

 

Antique Pool

The Antique Pool of Hierapolis is one of the highlights of the ancient city and very popular with visitors.

Antique Pool

 

History of the Antique Pool

Hierapolis was known for its natural thermal waters, which made it an important tourist destination and healing center. The Antique Pool is a swimming pool created specifically for healing purposes and was especially important during the Roman period.

It’s said that Cleopatra bathed in the pool when she visited the city with Mark Antony. According to legend, it’s said that Mark Antony had it created specifically as a gift for Cleopatra. Therefore, the pool is also known as Cleopatra’s Pool.

The Doric columns at the bottom of the pool came from a portico built in the 1st century. It collapsed into the water during an earthquake in the 7th century. Later, the pool was part of a hotel complex built before excavations began, but it has long since been demolished.

Antique Pool in Hierapolis
Antique Pool

 

Features of the Antique Pool

The Antique Pool maintains a constant temperature of around 36 ºC. It has a pH value of 5.8 and its radon value is 1480 pCi/l. The water contains contains bicarbonate, sulphate, iron, and carbon dioxide, and also has radioactive properties.

It’s believed the water is effective for people with heart disease, arteriosclerosis, high blood pressure, stomach spasms, rheumatism, rickets, nerve and vascular diseases, as well as skin and eye problems. The temperature of the water also has a soothing effect.

Antique Pool in Hierapolis
Antique Pool

 

Visiting the Antique Pool

The Antique Pool is situated between the Great Baths (now the Hierapolis Museum) and the Temple of Apollo. It’s the only natural thermal pool at Hierapolis visitors are allowed to enter. Adult admission is 200₺ per person (as of September 2023) in addition to admission to Hierapolis and Pamukkale.

There are changing rooms, lockers for an extra fee, toilets, a snack bar, and souvenir shops. Visitors must bring their own towels. Cameras and water shoes are not allowed in the pool. Expect lots of algae and big crowds.

Antique Pool

 

Hierapolis Museum

The Hierapolis Museum (Hierapolis Müzesi) contains findings from the ancient city of Hierapolis and other nearby archaeological sites. Admission to the museum is included with a ticket to the site and it’s open daily.

Hierapolis Museum
Hierapolis Museum

 

Great Baths

The Hierapolis Museum has been housed in the city’s Great Baths, or Central Baths, since February 1, 1984. The Great Baths complex was probably built in the 2nd century. It was built near the source of the natural hot springs in the central part of the city.

Great Baths from the east in Hierapolis
Great Baths from the east

The Great Baths were built of travertine blocks and measure roughly 100 x 140 meters. The walls were covered in marble and the eastern section contained a gymnasium with four rectangular rooms.

Great Baths in Hierapolis
Great Baths
Great Baths in Hierapolis
Great Baths

 

Sarcophagi and Statues Gallery

The Hierapolis Museum consists of three galleries. The first gallery, just inside the entrance gates, features sarcophagi and statues. The gallery is guarded by statues of two lions dated to the 2nd century BC during the Hellenistic period.

Sarcophagi and Statues at the Hierapolis Museum
Sarcophagi and Statues
Sarcophagi and Statues Gallery at the Hierapolis Museum
Sarcophagi and Statues Gallery

Some of the most beautiful examples of sarcophagi can be found in this gallery. Many were unearthed at the northern necropolis and there are also several important finds from Laodicea. Funerary stelae and statues are on display as well.

Columned sarcophagus of Euthios Pyrrhon (Asian Archon), Roman period, first quarter of the 3rd century, Laodicea in Sarcophagi and Statues at the Hierapolis Museum
Columned sarcophagus of Euthios Pyrrhon (Asian Archon), Roman period, first quarter of the 3rd century, Laodicea
Sarcophagus with garland, Roman period, second half of the 2nd century, Laodicea
Sarcophagus with garland, Roman period, second half of the 2nd century, Laodicea
Funeral stelae from the Roman period
Funeral stelae from the Roman period
Priestess of Isis, Roman period, 2nd century, Laodicea
Priestess of Isis, Roman period, 2nd century, Laodicea

 

Small Artifacts Gallery

Next is the Small Artifacts Gallery. It includes finds from several different cities such as Hierapolis, Laodiceia, Colossae, and Tripolis, and items from the Phrygian, Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine periods. The age of the artifacts spans 4,000 years.

Small Artifacts Gallery at the Hierapolis Museum
Small Artifacts Gallery
Roman period objects in the Small Artifacts Gallery at the Hierapolis Museum
Roman period objects
Items from Tripolis dating from the 2nd century BC to 12th century
Items from Tripolis dating from the 2nd century BC to 12th century

One section of the room is dedicated to Bronze Age finds from Beycesultan Höyük, which was discovered by James Mellaart in 1950. The site was excavated by Mellaart and Seton Lloyd (1902-1996) on behalf of the British Institute of Archaeology at Ankara from 1954 to 1959.

Items from Beycesultan Hüyük in the Small Artifacts Gallery at the Hierapolis Museum
Items from Beycesultan Hüyük
Roman period objects
Roman period objects

 

Hierapolis Theatre Gallery

The third and finally gallery at the Hierapolis Museum displays finds from the Hierapolis Theatre. These are original works that once decorated the theatre, many of which have been restored. Copies have been used in the reconstruction of the theatre.

Hierapolis Theatre Gallery at the Hierapolis Museum
Hierapolis Theatre Gallery
Hierapolis Theatre Gallery at the Hierapolis Museum
Hierapolis Theatre Gallery

The reliefs displayed around the walls depict Apollo and Artemis, festivals of Dionysus, and the coronation of Roman Emperor Septimius Severus.

Festival of Dionysos, Roman period, late 2nd century
Festival of Dionysos, Roman period, late 2nd century
Coronation of Hierapolis, Roman period, late 2nd century
Coronation of Hierapolis, Roman period, late 2nd century
Relief and Greek inscriptions
Relief and Greek inscriptions
War of the Giants and the Gods, Roman period, late 2nd century in the Hierapolis Theatre Gallery at the Hierapolis Museum
War of the Giants and the Gods, Roman period, late 2nd century

Statues in the gallery represent gods and goddesses including Hades, Triton, Apollo, Artemis, and Leto.

Hierapolis Theatre Gallery at the Hierapolis Museum
Hierapolis Theatre Gallery
Hades, Roman period, late 2nd century
Hades, Roman period, late 2nd century
Triton, Roman period, late 2nd century
Triton, Roman period, late 2nd century
Artemis (left), Leto (center) and Apollo (right), Roman period, late 2nd century
Artemis (left), Leto (center) and Apollo (right), Roman period, late 2nd century

Another interesting feature of the gallery is the graffiti left on the walls by travelers over the years. Much of it was written in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, in English, Greek, German, and French.

Graffiti in the Hierapolis Theatre Gallery at the Hierapolis Museum
Graffiti

 

In the Area…

In the immediate vicinity of the Hierapolis Museum are a few minor points of interest. First, directly across from the entrance to the museum are the ruins of an unidentified building.

Unidentified ruins in Hierapolis
Unidentified ruins
Unidentified ruins in Hierapolis
Unidentified ruins

To the west near the top of the travertine terraces of Pamukkale is a small section of city walls. They open onto the terraces.

City walls in Hierapolis
City walls
City walls in Hierapolis
City walls

 

Pamukkale

Pamukkale is a spectacular natural site below the archaeological site of Hierapolis. It’s a series of white travertine terraces formed by mineral water flowing from natural hot springs.

Pamukkale
Pamukkale
Pamukkale
Pamukkale

The water flows slowly down the hillside leaving small deposits of calcium carbonate that eventually crystalize into travertine. The formation is about 2,700 meters long, 600 meters wide, and 160 meters high.

Travertine terraces at Pamukkale
Travertine terraces
Travertine terraces at Pamukkale
Travertine terraces

Pamukkale translates to Cotton Castle in Turkish. Local legend has it that the travertine is solidified cotton left by the giants to dry.

“Cotton Castle”
Pamukkale
Pamukkale

 

History of Pamukkale

Pamukkale has been attracting tourists for thousands of years. During ancient Greek and Roman times, people were drawn to the site for the natural healing powers of the water.

Travertine terraces at Pamukkale
Travertine terraces

In the 1960s, hotels were built atop the ruins of Hierapolis and directly on the terraces. They would drain the thermal waters directly into their swimming pools and caused damage to the terraces. A road was built over the terraces and motorcycles were allowed on the slopes.

Path up the hill at Pamukkale
Path up the hill
Pool at Pamukkale
Pool

When Pamukkale became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1988, the hotels were demolished and the road was removed and replaced with artificial pools. A small path allows visitors to walk up the hill, but the terraces themselves are off limits to prevent erosion, pollution, and further damage.

Artificial pools at Pamukkale
Artificial pools
Artificial pools at Pamukkale
Artificial pools

 

Visiting Pamukkale

Pamukkale is accessed on the same ticket granting entry to Hierapolis. It’s open daily. Visitors can walk up the terraces from the town or visit them at the top.

Top of the terraces at Pamukkale
Top of the terraces

 

Lower Your Expectations!

Pamukkale is an extremely popular tourist destination. It’s sometimes the only reason people visit Hierapolis in the first place. There are often scores of huge coaches filled to capacity parked at the site, some driving as long as three or four hours, just for tourists to visit the terraces.

Crowds at the top at Pamukkale
Crowds at the top

Most people visit at the top where the crowds can often be unbearable. This can quickly take away the enjoyment of such a beautiful natural phenomenon. My advice is to take your time and walk up from the town, which is what I did on my first visit in November 2011. Far fewer people take this route.

Pools at the top at Pamukkale
Pools at the top

There’s a ticket booth and entrance to the archaeological site near the bottom of the terraces and it’s a fairly easy walk up. You’ll have a better opportunity to actually enjoy the natural beauty of Pamukkale rather than dodge selfie-taking tourists wearing rentable angel wings.

Walking up the terraces at Pamukkale
Walking up the terraces

Another option is to avoid Pamukkale during high season. During low season, the site is less likely to be full, but even that’s a crapshoot these days.

Top of the terraces in low season at Pamukkale
Top of the terraces in low season

Furthermore, if you’re expecting to see the artificial pools filled with beautiful blue water just like in the tourist brochures and Instagram posts, you’ll probably be disappointed. It’s very rare to see Pamukkale in all its glory as the water flow is controlled by the local authorities.

Travertine terraces at Pamukkale
Travertine terraces

 

South Side of Hierapolis

There’s not much to see on the south side of Hierapolis, but it contains one of the three tourist entrances to the UNESCO World Heritage site.

South side of Hierapolis
South side of Hierapolis
Looking northwest from the south side of Hierapolis
Looking northwest from the south side of Hierapolis

From the south side of the city, a boardwalk leads visitors to the travertine terraces of Pamukkale as well as the Hierapolis Museum and Antique Pool. Following the path to the northeast leads to the theatre.

Boardwalk in Hierapolis
Boardwalk

 

South Roman Gate

First of all, most visitors will pass through the South Roman Gate to gain entrance to the ancient city. The gate was made of travertine blocks and marble recycled from other structures. It was part of the city’s defensive system and is flanked by two rectangular towers. The South Roman Gate was at the southern end of Frontinus Street, which was the main street running through Hierapolis.

Outside of the South Roman Gate in Hierapolis
Outside of the South Roman Gate
Inside of the South Roman Gate in Hierapolis
Inside of the South Roman Gate

 

City Walls of Hierapolis

The south side of Hierapolis is the best opportunity to see what’s left of the city walls. The remainder of the walls sit mostly on the south and east boundaries of the city. The rest were demolished over the centuries for use in other buildings.

Walls of Hierapolis
Walls of Hierapolis
Water channel running from the walls of Hierapolis
Water channel running from the walls
A section of the city walls east of the theatre in Hierapolis
A section of the city walls east of the theatre

 

Hierapolis Gymnasium

Just inside the South Roman Gate is the gymnasium. It was built at the beginning of the 1st century and collapsed during an earthquake in the 7th century. It has not been fully excavated, but a few Doric columns have been re-erected.

Gymnasium in Hierapolis
Gymnasium
Gymnasium in Hierapolis
Gymnasium

The gymnasium was used for both the physical health and education of citizens. It was organized around a courtyard surrounded by Doric porticoes and had a length of at least 80 meters on the southern side.

Gymnasium in Hierapolis
Gymnasium
Gymnasium in Hierapolis
Gymnasium

 

Frontinus Street

Next to the gymnasium is an unexcavated section of Frontinus Street, which ran the length of the city from north to south. Much of the northern section of the street has been fully excavated.

Frontinus Street in Hierapolis
Frontinus Street

 

South Byzantine Gate

Finally, on the southwest corner of Hierapolis is the South Byzantine Gate. It was built in the late 4th century under Theodosius I. It’s made of travertine blocks and reused building material including marble.

South Byzantine Gate in Hierapolis
South Byzantine Gate

The South Byzantine Gate is flanked by two rectangular towers and contains reliefs of lions on either side of the arch. The chi rho symbol is carved into the keystone. A similar gate, the North Byzantine Gate, sits along Frontinus Street on the north side of the city.

Lion relief on the South Byzantine Gate in Hierapolis
Lion relief
Keystone on the South Byzantine Gate in Hierapolis
Keystone

 

Map of Hierapolis and Pamukkale

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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