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Thiseio is a historic neighborhood in Athens, Greece. It’s surrounded by archaeological sites on three sides and sits southwest of Monastiraki.
Introduction to Thiseio
Thiseio is named after the nearby Temple of Hephaestus, which was originally thought to have held the remains of Theseus. It’s known for its quiet streets, views of the Acropolis, and overall peaceful vibe. To the east is the ancient Agora of Athens, to the north is Kerameikos, and to the south are the Western Hills of Athens.
Thiseos Square
A good place to start exploring Thiseio is at Thiseos Square (Πλατεία Θησέως). It sits opposite the Thiseio Metro Station on the north end of the neighborhood. In ancient times, it was the location of an important sanctuary dedicated to Heracles.
The centerpiece of the square is a statue of Theseus. It was created by Greek sculptor Georgios Vitalis (1838-1901) in 1868.
Apostolou Pavlou Promenade
The Apostolou Pavlou Promenade runs from north to south along the east end of the neighborhood. It follows the western boundary of the Agora and curves around to road leading up to the Acropolis.
The promenade is a popular footpath for visitors looking for an easy walk up to the Acropolis. The northern end is lined with street vendors on both sides, eventually replaced by cafés and restaurants as you walk south.
Jacqueline de Romilly Square
About halfway through Thiseio down Apostolou Pavlou is Jacqueline de Romilly Square. The square itself isn’t attractive, but the views of the Acropolis are.
Sanctuary of Zeus
A few steps away at the foot of the Hill of the Nymphs is a large rock dedicated to Zeus. It happens to be the oldest known sanctuary of Zeus in Attica. It was used continuously from the Archaic through the post-Byzantine period.
The complex is made up of five rock-cut terraces connected by stairs. There are two entrances with carved staircases to the south. The terraces contain drainage channels, rooms, wells, cisterns, and altars. In ancient times, pregnant women would slide down a smooth stretch of the rock to ensure a painless pregnancy and healthy baby.
Church of Saint Marina
Above the rock is the Church of Saint Marina. It was built between 1922 and 1927 on the site of a 19th century church. It was designed in a Byzantine style by Greek architect Achilleas Georgiadis.
The Church of Saint Marina was built on a cruciform plan with a large central dome with four smaller domes at each corner.
In addition to housing the relics of Saint Marina, the church contains iconography completed in the 1930s. The wooden iconostasis was designed at the same time by Georgios Nomikos.
Chapel of Saint Marina
The church encompasses an 11th century chapel dedicated to Saint Marina, the protector of sick children. It was built into the rock and contains six wall paintings dating between the 13th and 17th centuries. Pregnant women and those with sick children would often visit the chapel to pray. This is considered a continuation of ancient worship at the site related to its original purpose. Today, the chapel serves as a baptistry.
Thiseion Open Air Cinema
Back down on Apostolou Pavlou at the southern end of Thiseio is the Thiseion Open Air Cinema. It was built in 1935 and is the oldest cinema in Athens. The owners carefully select both modern and classic movies for summer screenings, which are viewed with the Acropolis in sight. Tickets are 6.50€ from Monday to Wednesday and 8.50€ from Thursday to Sunday (as of June 2023).
Archaeological Site at Heraklidon and Erysichthon Streets
Moving west through Thiseio along Irakleidon (or Heraklidon) Street is the Archaeological Site at Heraklidon and Erysichthon Streets. It consists of a small section of the Proteichisma, which was the outer wall and first line of defense of the fortification wall of ancient Athens. The wall was built in the 4th century BC. This particular section includes two buttresses on its east side as well as a small ditch. The foundations of a fortification tower, dating back to the reign of Justinian in the 6th century, were also discovered. Excavations were carried out in 1907 and again in 1985.
Poulopoulos Hat Factory
The Poulopoulos Hat Factory, or Pil-Poul, sits at the west end of Thiseio. Elias Poulopoulos, a draper originally from Kalamata, had a dream of producing hats. He arrived in Athens in 1886 and purchased a large plot of land in Thiseio to build his factory.
The factory covered an area of nearly 40,000 square feet and took up an entire city block. It quickly became one of the most successful businesses of the time. During its peak in the 1920s, the Poulopoulos Hat Factory employed over 400 workers and was the largest hat factory in the Balkans. The hats were very popular and won several international competitions.
The Poulopoulos Hat Factory operated until a few years after the end of World War II. It had been heavily damaged during the Axis occupation of Greece and economic conditions at the time could not support it. In 1988, the factory was purchased by the Greek government and restored as a cultural center. Only a small portion of the building remains today.
Melina Mercouri Cultural Centre
The Poulopoulos Hat Factory houses the Melina Mercouri Cultural Centre. It’s dedicated to Greek actress and politician Melina Mercouri (1920-1994) and contains a museum and temporary exhibition space. It’s open daily except Mondays and admission is free (as of November 2023). Unfortunately, all the information is presented in Greek.
Shadow Puppet Exhibit
The ground floor of the cultural center presents an exhibit on the Greek tradition of Karagiozi (shadow puppets). It’s filled with over 900 shadow puppets created by master puppeteers Christos (1895-1970), Giorgos (1924-1996), and Sotiris Haridimos.
The exhibit includes information on the puppeteers, historic photos, and tools used to make shadow puppets. There’s even a theatre with free performances as well as workshops and lectures on the dying art of shadow puppetry. Check at reception for show schedules.
Early 20th Century Neighborhood
The first floor of the Melina Mercouri Cultural Centre features a reproduction of an early 20th century Athenian neighborhood. It comes complete with Neoclassical storefronts decorated with historic advertisements.
Some of the businesses represented include a barber giving a haircut to a patron; a tobacconist shop with a water pipe and tobacco products on the shelves; and a pharmacy with original medicine bottles.
The photographer’s studio includes a man posing for a photo while the photographer readies the camera; a printer cleaning his press; and a general store with original products available during the period.
At the end of the neighborhood is a café with patrons sitting in front of a large scene of Athens with the Acropolis in the background.
Rounding out the exhibit is an arcade filled with photographs of early 20th century Athens. Nearby is a small tribute to Greek singer Sotiria Bellou (1921-1997), one of the top rebetiko artists of all time.
