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The Western Hills is an archaeological site in Athens, Greece. It consists of three hills important to ancient Athenian history and the development of democracy.
About the Western Hills of Athens
The Western Hills of Athens are made up of the Pnyx, Philopappos Hill (Hill of the Muses), and the Hill of the Nymphs. The site is a public park open 24 hours a day and accessible without a ticket. There are a few entrances, with the main entrance at the intersection of the pedestrianized streets of Apostolou Pavlou coming from Thiseio and Dionysiou Areopagitou coming from the Acropolis.
Pedestrian Walkway
Most visitors to the Western Hills of Athens will take the pedestrian walkway. It was designed by Greek architect Dimitris Pikionis (1887-1968). Between May 1954 and February 1958, he created two spiral walkways ending in loops. One walkway leads up to the Acropolis while the other leads up to the top of Philopappos Hill (Hill of the Muses).
The main path as well as the other walkways use paving blocks, fragments of neoclassical buildings, and Byzantine and popular motifs. The project was declared a national historical monument and work of art by the Ministry of Culture in 1996.
Diateichisma
Before getting into any of the features of the three hills, I’ll cover the Diateichisma, which made up part of the fortifications of Athens. Extending 900 meters across the Hills of the Nymphs, Pnyx, and Muses, the Diateichisma connected to the older Themistoclean walls to the north and south. It’s possible to see traces of the wall along the Pnyx and Philopappos Hill (Hill of the Muses).
The wall was constructed in two phases. The first phase was after the Battle of Chaeronea in 338 BC, in order to prepare for the threat of invasion by Macedonia. It served as the first line of defense from the west between the 4th century BC and the medieval period.
The second phase was in the 6th century during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian. The wall was repaired and reinforced, and new towers were built. The last repairs on the Diateichisma were carried out in the late 12th or early 13th century.
Dipylon above the Gates
The remains of the south gate of the Diateichisma, or the Dipylon above the Gates, sits along the pedestrian walkway between Philopappos Hill and the Pnyx. It connected to the most important commercial artery in ancient Athens, the Koile Road. Only the south side of the gate remains today.
Church of Saint Demetrios Loumbardiaris
Before making it up to the top of any hills, the first structure you’ll likely notice is the Byzantine Church of Saint Demetrios Loumbardiaris. It sits along the walkway on the right side and was built atop the north tower of the Dipylon above the Gates.
The church was probably constructed in the 12th century during the final repairs of the Diateichisma, and contains frescoes dating back to 1732. The current form of the church is from a restoration carried out in the 1960s by Dimitris Pikionis.
The name of the church, Loumbardiaris, translates to “cannoneer” and is connected to a miracle that was believed to have saved it. Sometime between 1645 and 1658, Ottoman commander Yusuf Ağa planned to fire a cannon from the Propylaia of the Acropolis at worshippers celebrating the feast day of Saint Demetrios. The night before the feast, a bolt of lightning struck the Propylaia, killing the commander and his family.
The church consists of a narrow narthex covered by a thatched roof with flags adorning the entrance. An icon of Christ sits above the door to the church.
The nave of the church is quite simple. The walls are made of brick and are lined with icons. An icon of Saint Demetrios hangs on the south wall. The throne, iconostasis, and altar sit under a barrel-vaulted ceiling.
The Pnyx
The Pnyx (Πνύξ) is the most important of the Western Hills of Athens. It’s one of the oldest and most important sites related to the creation of democracy. The path around the Church of Demetrios Loumbardiaris leads up to the top of the Pnyx.
History of the Pnyx
At the top of the Pnyx is a large flat platform of stone. Athenians gathered there for popular assemblies around 500 BC, when the reforms of Cleisthenes (c. 570 – c. 508 BC) transferred political power from the state to its citizens. Before this, the assembly (ekklesia) met at the Agora.
The assembly met ten times a year. The chairman (epistates) of the executive committee (prytaneis) of the boule (council) presided over the meetings. He was assisted by a secretary and a herald, who made announcements. An orator spoke from the bema (speaker’s platform) while the audience sat on the rock surface, and later wooden benches.
The Pnyx was abandoned by the end of the 4th century BC, when the assembly was transferred to the more suitable Theatre of Dionysus on the south slope of the Acropolis. There were plans under Lycurgus (c. 390 – 324 BC) to build two long stoas to the west and south sides, but the work was left unfinished.
Construction Phases of the Pnyx
There are three phases of construction that have been determined. During Phase I, which took place in the late 6th or early 5th century BC, a semicircular auditorium was built. The seating capacity was estimated at 5,000. The bema (speaker’s platform) was placed on the north, with the Agora and Acropolis in the background. Miltiades (c. 550 – 489 BC), Aristides (530 – 468 BC), Themistocles (c. 524 – c. 459 BC), and Pericles (c. 495 – 429 BC) all spoke at Phase I of the Pnyx.
Phase II dates back to the late 5th century BC. This saw the auditorium enlarged to a capacity of about 6,000. The orientation of the bema and audience was also reversed, with the bema being placed on the south. A retaining wall was built on the north, with stairways leading to the auditorium from the northeast and northwest. Isocrates (436 – 338 BC), Demosthenes (384 – 322 BC), and Aeschines (389 – 314 BC) spoke at Phase II of the Pnyx.
During Phase III, which probably took place between 345 and 335 BC, the auditorium was enlarged to a capacity of about 13,500. A monumental retaining wall was constructed out of large blocks with a staircase set in the middle. The bema was also enlarged and the upper terrace of the Pnyx was constructed. Alcibiades (c. 450 – 404 BC) orated during this phase.
Excavations of the Pnyx
The Pnyx was identified by archaeologist Kyriakos Pittakis (1798-1863) in 1835. The first excavation wasn’t carried out until 1910 by the Archaeological Society of Athens, who confirmed the site as the Pnyx. Between 1930 and 1937, Canadian archaeologist Homer Thompson (1906-2000) carried out a series of excavations uncovering its most important features.
Bema
The focal point of the Pnyx is the bema, which is carved into a huge piece of bedrock. It’s nine meters long and contains three steps leading to its top level. The president’s box sits just above. The surviving bema was constructed during Phase III.
Sanctuary of Zeus Hypsistos
The niches carved into the face of the rock to the left of the bema is the Sanctuary of Zeus Hypsistos. It was established most likely in the 1st century during the Roman period, when the Pnyx no longer had any political significance.
The niches are of varying size and shape, and were meant to receive votives of human limbs as offerings to Zeus Hypsistos for healing. The large niche in the center held a statue of Zeus.
Altar of Zeus Agoraios
Just above the bema was the Altar of Zeus Agoraios, which was constructed during Phase III. Sacrifices were offered at the altar before every assembly. The altar was likely moved to the Agora and set up in front of the Metroon during the reign of Roman Emperor Augustus in the late 1st century BC.
Meton’s Solar Clock
Finally, on the upper terrace near the altar is Meton’s Solar Clock, which was built around 433 BC by astronomer Meton. Measurements carried out at the clock led to calculations for the 19-year Metonic Cycle, after which the lunar phases recur at the same time of year. It’s the oldest known astronomical observatory in the world.
Structures around the Base of the Pnyx
There are a handful of minor structures that survive around the base of the Pnyx. Some can be see outside the park boundaries of the Western Hills of Athens.
Roadside Sanctuary
First, right behind the Church of Saint Demetrios Loumbardiaris is the Sanctuary by Koile Road. It’s a small structure that’s easy to miss. No information is listed at the site.
Late Roman Building
Along the pedestrianized Apostolou Pavlou towards Thiseio are a few more structures of note. They sit opposite the ruins of Stenopos Kollytos. First is a Late Roman building. There’s no information about it.
Fountain of Pnyx
Next is Fountain of Pnyx. It was built in the 6th century during the rule of tyrant Peisistratos (c. 600 – 527 BC) as part of a new water supply system for Athens. This particular fountain supplied water for more than 800 years. It consists of one chamber carved out of bedrock with a well where water was collected, and a second subterranean chamber connected by a corridor. The first chamber contains an elaborate floor mosaic that predates the reign of Roman Emperor Hadrian.
The Fountain of Pnyx was mistakenly identified as the Kallirroe Spring by German archaeologist Wilhelm Dörpfeld (1853-1940). During World War II, the fountain was used to protect antiquities and the entrance was sealed with concrete.
Sanctuary of Pan
Finally, the last structure is the Sanctuary of Pan. It consists of a rock-cut underground chamber accessible through a rectangular opening. Inside is a relief chiseled into the bedrock depicting Pan and a dog. There are also wall paintings and a mosaic near the entrance.
Although no written source mentions this as the Sanctuary of Pan, the cult of Pan is well-documented in caves across the region. Above the sanctuary are the remains of two classical rock-cut homes with subterranean cisterns as well as part of the “East Road”.
Hill of the Nymphs
The Hill of the Nymphs also lies within the Western Hills of Athens. It sits just north of the Pnyx and contains an important deme, or suburb, of the ancient city.
Doridis Telescope
I walked over to the Hill of the Nymphs from the Pnyx and came to an open area containing the Doridis Telescope. It was built in 1902 for the National Observatory of Athens (see below).
The Doridis Telescope was the country’s largest telescope for 57 years. It’s named after its benefactor, Dimitrios Doridis. The telescope is a refractor with double achromatic lenses 40 centimeters in diameter and has a 5 meter focal length. It’s currently used for education and public outreach.
Views from the Hill of the Nymphs
From this same area, there are phenomenal views of Athens, including Lycabettus Hill and the Acropolis. The Agora can also be seen in the foreground below the hill.
National Observatory
Crowning the top of the Hill of the Nymphs is the National Observatory of Athens, which is the oldest scientific research center in Greece. It was founded in 1842 by Greek-Austrian astronomer Georgios Konstantinos Vouris (1802-1860) and funded by Greek-Austrian banker Georgios Sinas (1783-1856). The building was designed by Danish architect Theophil Hansen (1813-1891) and completed in 1846. A 16 centimeter telescope sat under the dome, and a meteorological station has been located there since September 11, 1890. Guided tours are offered in English every Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday at 8pm for 5€ (as of June 2023).
Deme of Melite
The most important archaeological site on the Hill of the Nymphs are the remains of the deme of Melite (Μελίτη). It was one of the largest and most populous demes of Athens. It included the Hill of the Nymphs, the Pnyx, and the Agora.
Many important politicians, generals, and philosophers had their homes in Melite. This included Themistocles, Miltiades, Kimon (c. 510 – 450 BC), Alcibiades, Epicurus (341 – 270 BC), Callius II (5th century BC), and Phocion (c. 402 – 318 BC). During the late Hellenistic and Roman periods, the deme gradually lost importance and was taken over by roadside cemeteries.
Only a small section of Melite left outside the city walls are visible today. It consists of houses, shrines, workshops, waterworks, roads, defensive structures, burial complexes, and more.
Hill of the Muses (Philopappos Hill)
The Hill of the Muses, commonly known as Philopappos or Filopappos Hill (Λόφος Φιλοπάππου), sits to the south of the pedestrian walkway.
History of the Hill of the Muses
The Hill of the Muses is the highest of the three hills making up the Western Hills of Athens. According to Greek traveler Pausanias (c. 110 – c. 180), the hill was named for the legendary poet Mousaios (or Musaeus), who lived, taught, and was buried on the hill. It’s more likely it was named after a shrine of the Muses.
The Hill of the Muses was a strategically important defensive position of Athens. It was included within the Themistoclean Walls and later as a boundary of the Diateichisma. In 294 BC, Demetrios I of Macedon (337-283 BC) built a fortress, known as the Macedonian Fortress, into the old walls on the hill to control the city.
Anderon
Pikionis’ path leading up the Hill of the Muses passes by the Anderon, a viewing platform with some of the best views of the Acropolis. It includes semicircular benches and marble seats inspired by ancient linear compositions.
The construction of the Anderon was done without any preplanning. Pikionis employed skilled workers to shape the paving blocks on site using a variety of chisels. He also organized the planting of trees used by the ancient Greeks, such as wild and domestic olive trees, laurel, pomegranate, and myrtle trees, with the goal of blending the natural and archaeological landscape.
Philopappos Monument
The Hill of the Muses is crowned by the Philopappos Monument, which gives the hill its popular name. It was built in 114 AD as the tomb of Gaius Julius Antiochus Epiphanes Philopappos (65-116), a prince from the Kingdom of Commagene. The monument was commissioned by Philopappos’ sister, Julia Balbilla (72-c. 130), along with the citizens of Athens and possibly the Roman imperial family.
The Philopappos Monument stands 12 meters high and is made of Pentelic marble. The base measured 9.8 by 9.3 meters (32.2 feet by 30.5 feet) and contained Philopappos’ burial chamber. On the lower level is a frieze representing Philopappos as a Roman consul. He’s riding on a chariot and led by lictors.
The upper level contains three niches decorated with the statues of Antiochus IV (left), Philopappos (center), and Seleucus I Nicator (right, now lost).
The monument was intact until at least 1436, when it was visited by Italian traveler Ciriaco de’ Pizzicolli (1391-c. 1453). Excavations were carried out in 1898 and conservation work was done in 1899. Only ⅔ of the original façade remain, and the burial chamber is completely destroyed except for the base. Parts of the monument were also used by the Ottomans for the construction of the minaret of the Parthenon.
Views of the Acropolis
A small rocky outcrop on the hill in front of the Philopappos Monument provides amazing views of the Acropolis and Athens.
Heroon of Mousaios
Just underneath the Philopappos Monument is the Heroon of Mousaios. It consists of a rock-cut square with niches for statues, benches, and altars for offerings. This is the supposed funerary monument of the aforementioned Mousaios.
Path Along the Top of the Hill of the Muses
A path leading southwest from the Philopappos Monument runs along the top of the hill. Along the way, it’s possible to look down the cliffs on the south side to see some small parks. At the end of the path is a beautiful view looking south towards Piraeus.
So-Called Prison of Socrates
At the base of the Hill of the Muses is a rock-cut structure that according to tradition was the prison of Socrates (c. 470 – 399 BC). It’s more likely that he was held in the State Prison just southwest of the Agora and the structure was a two- or three-story home.
The structure contained three rooms with an eastern doorway and a cistern in the back. During World War II, it was used to hide antiquities from the Acropolis and the National Archaeological Museum and was sealed with a thick concrete wall. The wall wasn’t removed until 1999.
Deaf Man’s Cave
On the north side of the Hill of the Muses is the Deaf Man’s Cave. This rock-cut structure was a typical dwelling of the Classical period that was later turned into a grave monument as the entire area was converted to a cemetery. The cemetery developed during the Hellenistic (3rd – 2nd century BC) and Roman periods (1st century BC – 3rd century AD).
Deaf Man’s Cave was excavated in 2009 and consists of two chambers. There are four tombs in the large chamber and two in the smaller one. They were last used in the 3rd century during the Roman period. The current name comes from oral tradition that a deaf man once lived inside.
Eptathronon
A few steps above Deaf Man’s Cave is the Eptathronon, which translates to “seven thrones”. This unique and interesting monument consists of a rectangular terrace with seven rock-cut seats carved into the bedrock on the south side. On the east side is an exedra with a bench, while the north and west sides contain no structures. The terrace measures 13 x 10 meters.
Scholars have suggested that it was used as a public court or council, or even for the relaxation of local residents. Some believe it was part of a sanctuary dedicated to Cybele. Several other myths and legends surround its function.
South Side of the Hill of the Muses
There’s not much to see along the south side of the Hill of the Muses. I walked around the perimeter and came across a couple small but uninteresting parks as well as a Greek Orthodox shrine hidden in a corner.
Deme of Koile
The Deme of Koile (Κοίλη) was an ancient suburb of Athens. It’s the most complete residential area within the Western Hills of Athens.
History of the Deme of Koile
Koile was situated in a ravine formed by the slopes of the Hill of the Muses and the Pnyx. To the north was the deme of Melite on the Hill of the Nymphs, and to the east was the deme of Kollytos. Koile was partially inside and partially outside the Themistoclean Wall.
The deme of Koile gradually lost importance after the construction of the Diateichisma (covered in my entry on the Pnyx) and was eventually abandoned. A cemetery developed during the Hellenistic (3rd-2nd century BC) and Roman periods (1st century BC – 3rd century AD).
Koile Road
The Koile Road ran through the deme of Koile from the Acropolis all the way to port at Piraeus. It was the most important commercial road through the city. About 500 meters of the road has been excavated.
The road followed the natural path of the ravine and had a rock-cut water channel on its north side. It was between 8 and 12 meters wide and passed through the Dipylon above the Gates on the Diateichisma.
Agora of Koile
The agora of Koile was most likely located at the convergence of the Hill of the Muses and Pnyx. It had a square shape with rock-cut water channels on three side. There were rock cuttings and steps on either side of the Koile Road.
Koilon
The Koilon, or depression, sits to the west at the convergence of all three of the Western Hills of Athens. At this point, the Koile Road widened to 21 meters and intersected with other smaller roads coming from the slops of the hills. It then passed through a gate on the Themistoclean Wall that no longer exists.
On the slopes of both sides of the Koilon are several terraces with rock-cut rooms. Some were used as stoas and may have had commercial uses.
There are also rock-cut stairways that belonged to private buildings. In fact, the area was called “skalakia”, which translates to “small stairways”. Wells and niches of shrines are scattered throughout the rock in this section.
In 1939 during the Metaxas regime, the government decided to build a large open-air theatre, the Bastia Theatre, at the Koilon. It was never finished because of World War II and was demolished between 1998 and 2004. Thankfully, its demolition allowed for the restoration of the landscape and archaeological excavations at the Western Hills of Athens.
Kimon’s Tomb
Kimon’s Tomb, or the Kimoneia, is one of the most important monuments of Koile. It was the tomb of Kimon Coalemos, a famous 6th century BC chariot racer and father of Miltiades. His relative, the historian Thucydides (c. 460 – c. 400 BC) was also buried there. A 3rd century inscription above the entrance names its occupant as Zosimianos.
The tomb was carved into the northwest side of the Hill of the Muses and has two equally sized compartments. Herodotus (c. 484 – c. 425 BC) and Plutarch (c. 46 – 119) describe the tomb as “facing the Acropolis near the road through Koile”. Thanks to this description, archaeologists were able to identify the deme of Koile by discovering the tomb.
