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The Varvakeios Agora (Βαρβάκειος Αγορά) is the oldest and largest indoor food market in Athens, Greece. It provides a great opportunity for a glimpse into local life.
History of the Varvakeios Agora
The Varvakeios Agora, also called the Athens Central Market, was created by the City of Athens in 1878 and opened to the public in 1886. It’s named for Ioannis Varvakis (1745-1825), one of the greatest benefactors of Greece. Before the market opened, locals would buy their food from stalls around the Roman Agora.
The market, which underwent some small renovations between 1979 and 1996, has been operating continuously since it opened. It employs about 400 people and sees between 3,000 and 5,000 customers daily. The market sells mainly meat and fish nowadays.
Visiting the Varvakeios Agora
The Varvakeios Agora covers the entire block bordered by Athinas, Sophocleous, Aiolou, and Evripidou Streets. It’s open daily except Sundays from 8am to 6pm. The best time to go is in the morning.
Fish Market
The center of the building, under the large gabled roof, houses the largest fish market in Europe. Every day, between five and ten tons of fish and seafood are sold at about 100 different stalls.
All kinds of fish and seafood can be found, including tuna, swordfish, mullet, grouper, sea bass, sardines, cod, octopus, calamari, and more. The oldest stall in the market is Korakis which dates back to 1926. If you’re buying, vendors are always happy to give a recommendation.
Meat Market
The aisles along the three sides of the main hall are where you’ll find the meat market. You’ll see lamb and fresh cuts of beef and pork hanging on hooks as well as cured meats and sausages.
Dry Goods
If you’re looking for spices, nuts, coffee, and honey, you’ll find some shops along Athinas and Sophocleous Streets as well as along Evripidou. You’ll also find cheese, cured meats, pastries, and specialty goods.
Fruits and Vegetables
The colorful fruit and vegetable market is across Athinas Street along the alleys of Armodiou and Aristogitonos. There’s even a secondhand goods store on Aristogitonos.
If you want to sample the many varieties of Greek olives, this is the place to do it. You can also have your selection of olives vacuum packed for your trip home.
Must-Visit Shops
In the streets around the Varvakeios Agora, there are plenty of places to sample food products, and purchase specialty goods. I’m including below a list of places where I’ve had the best experiences during my visits to the market.
Zarkadian
The best experience I had by far was at Zarkadian, located at 28 Evripidou. This small family-run deli was founded by Alexandros Zarkadoulas. He opened the shop in 2013 and specializes in delicacies such as veal and camel pastirma, sujuk, salamis, and rare cheeses from small producers.
I visited the shop to have a tabla of meats and cheeses and was greeted by the wonderful Voula. She sat me down and brought a basket of paximadia, a hard Greek bread. They were made with olive oil and the perfect compliment to the tabla. The tabla itself contained four types of meats, including pastirma, sujuk, and salami, paired with four types of cheeses, including feta and kefalograviera. It’s one of the best tasting experiences I’ve had in Athens, and each slice of meat or cheese was exquisite.
I had a nice chat with Voula about life in Athens and the rebound in tourism, and my dreams of moving to Greece one day. I then purchased a few products to take home with me and placed an order for mastelo cheese from Chios to pick up the next day. The hospitality really put the experience over the top, and was just as enjoyable as the tasting.
Zouridakis Cretan Products
Directly across the street from Zarkadian is Zouridakis Cretan Products. They’ve been selling traditional Cretan goods near the Varvakeios Agora since 2013, although they can trace their origins back to the opening of the family bakery in Heraklion, Crete, in 1920. They offer olive oils, wines, cheeses, pastas, pastries, rusks, honey, nuts, and more.
Bahar
On the next block at 31 Evripidou is Bahar, which is one of the most famous spice shops in Athens. They sell a whopping 2,500 items, including herbs, spices, and teas from all over the world as well as nuts, beans, grains, and flour.
Bahar was founded in 1940 by Antonis Manolessos, who moved to Athens from Santorini just a few months before the outbreak of the Greco-Italian War. The shop has been in the same location and owned by the same family ever since. They promise the highest quality products for the best price, and staff is always friendly and willing to help with your shopping experience.
Melira
Melira, at the corner of Evripidou and Sokratous, offers a unique variety of honeys as well as cosmetics. The family-owned business has been producing honey the traditional Greek way since 1935.
Honey varieties include acacia, fir, chestnut, thyme, wild oak, wildflower, heather, pine, cotton, oregano, lavender, eucalyptus, carob, and orange blossom. You can sample them in the store. If you’re having a hard time choosing, like I did, they sell gift packs with two or four jars. Cosmetics include balms, moisturizers, creams, soaps, shampoos, and body mist.
Polykala Distillery
A little further away from the action, behind Athens City Hall at 7 Kleisthenous Street, is the Polykala Distillery. It traces its origins back to 1897 when it was founded by Vassilis Polykalas in Lixouri, Kefallonia. Polykalas was a wine trader who traveled all over Greece and Kefallonia collecting recipes of homemade liqueurs and other spirits. He later moved his operations to Athens, first at Syntagma Square and then on Kleisthenous Street.
Four generations later, the distillery and tasting room are still on Kleisthenous Street. When I tell you this is some of the best liqueur I’ve ever had, anywhere, it’s the absolute truth. There are several different varieties on the wall and each one seems to taste better than the last.
The woman in the tasting room, a descendant of Vassilis Polykalas, went through just about each and every bottle on the wall and offered samples of the best products. I probably tried 10 different liqueurs and there wasn’t one I didn’t enjoy. It’s normal not to like at least SOME of the products you try at a distillery, but it didn’t happen at Polykala. It was hard to narrow down my favorites.
Thanks to alcohol import limits, I was only allowed to take a total of two liters home with me. I ended up buying four different products. They were the mastiha, coffee, sour cherry, and Nona’s Fioro (muscat with rosehip). If I was allowed and had room in my luggage, I definitely would’ve taken home hazelnut, chocolate, mint, sage, and probably a few more.
Where to Eat near Varvakeios Agora
The Varvakeios Agora is also a great place to find a unique meal. I’ve had a few meals, snacks, and sweets in the area so far. Here’s where I’ve eaten:
Hasapika
One of the best meals I’ve had in Athens was at Hasapika. They’re located inside the Varvakeios Agora itself. They use fresh ingredients from the market and offer seafood, sushi, and pasta dishes. Meals are served on styrofoam box covers.
I ordered the octopus and was able to see my meal prepared in front of me. That made my visit much more enjoyable. Watching the chef was like watching an artist at work.
I liked the octopus so much I ordered the grilled kalamari as well. Overall, the whole experience was memorable, the food was creative and delicious. I can’t wait to go try something different. To verify my claim, the table next to me were German tourists who had been traveling around Greece for an entire month. They told me this was the best meal they’d had during their trip.
Ta Karamanlidika Tou Fani
Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani pays homage to the Karamanlides of Cappadocia and Cilicia. The Karamanlides, an Orthodox Christian people who spoke and wrote in Turkish with Greek script, were forced to leave their homeland during the 1923 population exchange between Greece and Turkey. Their traditional recipes are alive and well in Athens thanks to Fanis Theodoropoulos and Paraskevas Sarimpoyias.
They have two locations – one at 52 Evripidou and another along Ermou Street in Monastiraki. For this post, I’ll focus on the Evripidou location, which is housed in an 1870s building and functions as the meze restaurant. This particular branch revives the Byzantine pastomageirio, which was an eatery specializing in preserved meats. They also prepare delicious Karamanli dishes and sell rare cheeses and meats from all over Greece.
My Meal
During my visit, I sat in the alley next to the building and was treated to two thin slices of cured meat and a few bits of sharp cheese.
I then proceeded to order two dishes. As a starter, I had the eggplant, zucchini, and feta in a spicy Cappadocian sauce. My main dish was the kavourmas, which is beef sautéed with potatoes, dill, and green and red peppers. Both dishes were extraordinary, but I favored the eggplant dish. It just had a special flavor that I didn’t want to leave my mouth. The kavourmas is almost identical to the kavurma dishes of Turkey with a few minor differences.
At the end of the meal, a complimentary Greek yogurt and orange marmalade was brought to the table. It was a perfect ending to an incredible and very filling meal.
My only mistake was coming alone because these dishes are too good to try just one or two. Make a reservation, bring a group of friends or family, and order as much off the menu as you can fit in your belly. You’ll want to come back for more.
Peinirli
While looking for a quick bite to eat near the Varvakeios Agora, I came across Peinirli at the corner of Athinas and Evripidou. As the name suggests, they specialize in peinirli, which is essentially a version of pizza.
A peinirli is an elongated pie shaped like a boat and filled with cheese and/or meats and veggies. It was brought to Greece from Turkey, where it’s commonly referred to as pide. Here, they’re premade and heated in under three minutes. You can take them to go or sit at one of the tables outside.
In addition to peinirli, there are individual pizzas, spanakopita and tiropita, and pastries such as bougatsa and chocolate cake available as well.
Mokka Specialty Coffee
Just north of the main entrance to the Varvakeios Agora is Mokka Specialty Coffee. It has a history dating back to 1923 as Bravo, and in 1999, as Mokka, it became the first company in Greece to import and roast specialty coffee.
I sat down at a table outside and ordered a Greek coffee and portokalopita (orange pie). It was easily the best Greek coffee I’ve ever had in Athens, and the portokalopita was delicious. If you’re looking for a quick boost of energy while working your way through the market, Mokka is the place you need!
Krinos
To satisfy your sweet tooth, head to Krinos a block east of the market at 87 Aiolou Street. They’ve been pumping out Athens’ most famous loukoumades since 1923. Krinos is housed in a Neoclassical building that served as the first pharmacy in Athens in 1855. In 1923, the building was purchased by Minas Kassimatis, who converted it into a confectionary superstore.
There are two options – dine-in or take away from the counter. You can order your loukoumades plain or the traditional way, topped with honey, crushed walnuts, and cinnamon. Also try their other specialty, the bougatsa, which is excellent.
Make a Day of It!
Overall, the Varvakeios Agora is a great place to spend a few hours of your day. Not only is it a great place for people watching and observing local life, it’s also a fantastic place to try some of Greece’s local delicacies. Bring an appetite!
