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Kasımpaşa is a working-class neighborhood in the Beyoğlu district of Istanbul. It’s located west of Tepebaşı and Galata and south of Tarlabaşı.
History
Kasımpaşa has a strong naval tradition. The neighborhood grew after Mehmed the Conqueror started construction of the Ottoman Imperial Shipyard along the Golden Horn in 1454. Major development and expansion occurred during the reign of Sultan Selim I, when it spread from Kasımpaşa all the way to Hasköy.
The shipyard fell into decline in the mid 19th century under Sultan Abdülmecid I, and was divided into three sections in 1913. One of these sections, the Golden Horn Shipyard (Haliç Tersanesi), is located in Kasımpaşa.
The neighborhood regained importance on November 14, 1922, when it became the headquarters of the Istanbul Naval Command. Finally, the President of Turkey, Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, was born in Kasımpaşa on February 26, 1954.
Arriving by Ferry
It’s easy to walk downhill to Kasımpaşa from Tepebaşı or Şişhane, but the most enjoyable way to get there is by ferry. The Golden Horn ferry line runs hourly from Üsküdar and Karaköy to Kasımpaşa, then makes stops at Fener, Balat, Hasköy, Ayvansaray, Sütlüce, and Eyüp.
Kasımpaşa Social Facilities
Between the ferry terminal and the Haliç Shipyard is the Kasımpaşa Social Facilities (Kasımpaşa Sosyal Tesisleri). It’s a city run restaurant overlooking the Golden Horn that opened in 2004. They have a menu specializing in reasonably priced fish dishes.
Cezayirli Hasan Paşa Park
Behind the ferry terminal is the Cezayirli Hasan Pasha Park (Cezayirli Hasan Paşa Parkı). It’s named for Cezayirli Hasan Pasha (1713-1790), a Grand Admiral (Kaptan-ı Derya) of the Ottoman Navy and Grand Vizier under Sultan Selim III.
A statue of Cezayirli Hasan Pasha and his lion sits in the center of the park. He domesticated the lion while based in Algiers and famously took it everywhere. He also established the Turkish Naval Academy in Kasımpaşa in 1773.
Kalyoncu Barracks
The Kalyoncu Barracks (Kalyoncu Kışlası) sat inland across the street from the park. They were built by Cezayirli Hasan Pasha in 1782 as the first modern barracks in the Ottoman Empire. The barracks were three stories high and contained 160 rooms to accommodate 8,700 soldiers. They were repaired about five times between 1883 and 1963.
The buildings were supposed to be renovated again in 2012 but were instead destroyed. There was construction activity on the site during my last visit in November 2018.
Güzelce Kasım Paşa Mosque
A block further inland is the Güzelce Kasım Pasha Mosque (Güzelce Kasım Paşa Camii). It was originally built as a wooden mosque in 1533 by Güzelce Kasım Pasha (d. 1553), an Ottoman governor. The architect was Mimar Sinan (1490-1588).
The mosque was destroyed by fire over the years, and was renovated by Sultan Ahmed III in 1708, Feyzullah Bey in 1721, and Sultan Abdülaziz in 1864. The current appearance dates back to the reign of Abdülaziz. A fountain sits opposite the mosque.
Büyük Hamam
Also across from the mosque is the Büyük Hamam. It was built in the 16th century by Mimar Sinan and is usually frequented by locals.
Ottoman Ministry of the Navy
Two structures are best seen from a ferry on the Golden Horn. First is the building that once housed the Ottoman Ministry of the Navy (Osmanlı Bahriye Nezareti). It was built between 1865 and 1869 by Ottoman Armenian architect Sarkis Balyan (1835-1899).
The Ottoman Ministry of the Navy operated in the building until the foundation of the Turkish Republic in 1923. The Northern Sea Area Command (Kuzey Deniz Saha Komutanlığı) of the Turkish Navy took over the building in 1953. It was under renovation during my last visit in November 2018.
Bahriye Central Hospital
Next is the former Bahriye Central Hospital (Bahriye Merkez Hastanesi), which was founded in 1827. The building was finished in 1847 and was designed by British architect William James Smith (1807-1884). It was later renamed Istanbul Naval Hospital (İstanbul Deniz Hastanesi) and then Kasımpaşa Military Hospital (Kasımpaşa Asker Hastanesi) in 2003. The building has been affiliated with the Okmeydanı Training and Research Hospital (Okmeydanı Eğitim ve Araştırma Hastanesi) since July 25, 2016.
A clock tower rises from the center of the building above the entrance. The original clock was made in 1859. It’s now on display at the Istanbul Naval Museum in Beşiktaş.
Recep Tayyip Erdoğan Stadium
Finally, the neighborhood has become synonymous with the Kasımpaşa football club. It was founded in 1921. They play their home games at Recep Tayyip Erdoğan Stadium (Recep Tayyip Erdoğan Stadyumu), which opened in 2005 and accommodates 14,234 spectators.
