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Karaköy is an important neighborhood in the Beyoğlu district of Istanbul. It’s a busy transportation and tourist hub with a handful of interesting minor attractions and some good restaurants.
Intro to Karaköy
When I lived in Istanbul from 2010 to the end of 2013, Karaköy was one of those areas I used to avoid. Other than running to catch a ferry, I had no reason to spend time there. It was a dirty, seedy port area with nothing of interest to tourists unless they were looking to buy baklava at Karaköy Güllüoğlu. Fast forward to one of my first trips back in 2018, I was shocked to see the transformation from seedy port area to one of Istanbul’s trendiest neighborhoods.
Nowadays, I highly recommend visiting Karaköy. You’ll enjoy spending some time chatting with friends at a café or trying one of the restaurants. The best areas to hang out are along Mumhane Street or behind the Kılıç Ali Pasha Mosque on Kılıç Ali Pasha Mescidi Street. For architecture and history, hit Karaköy Square and Bankalar Street.
Boundaries of Karaköy
Depending on the source, you’ll find different boundaries for Karaköy. The socially accepted boundaries are the Atatürk Bridge to the west, Galataport to the east, Bankalar and Kemeraltı Streets to the north, and the shoreline to the south. Some sources consider Karaköy to be the square and everything east while the western half is called Perşembe Pazarı, Arapcami, or Azapkapı. For this post, I’ll use the socially accepted boundaries mentioned above.
Organization of this Post
I’ll start this exploration of Karaköy at Karaköy Square, which is the heart of the neighborhood and a place almost every visitor to Istanbul will likely pass through at least once. From there, I’ll continue along the waterfront and into the eastern half of the neighborhood, then back around to Karaköy Square via Kemeraltı Street. From there, I’ll cross the square to cover the western half of the neighborhood. I’ve covered Bankalar Street in another post.
Karaköy Square
Karaköy Square (Karaköy Meydanı) is a bustling area linking the Galata Bridge to Beyoğlu. The square is always busy and full of traffic.
Karaköy Square contains a stop on the T1 tram line running from Kabataş to Bağcılar and ferry terminals on either side of the Galata Bridge. Galata is up the hill.
An underground passage full of shops allows pedestrians to safely connect to the tram, the shoreline, and Tünel station.
Development of Karaköy Square
Karaköy Square was developed in 1958. While there are a few notable historic buildings on the square today, several other beautiful buildings did not survive.
Gone are Mehmet Ali Pasha Han, the Wagon-Lits Cook Building, Haviar Han, Borsa Han, Tokatlı Brewery (Tokatlı Birahanesi), and the Merzifonlu Kara Mustafa Pasha Mosque (Merzifonlu Kara Mustafa Paşa Camii), among others. The Aziziye Police Station (Aziziye Karakolu) was another stunning building demolished much earlier in 1910. You can see photos of these old buildings on lcivelekoglu.blogspot.com (text in Turkish).
A more recent casualty is the old outdoor fish market that once sat just west of the Galata Bridge (although an indoor fish market still exists nearby).
Karaköy Palace
Among the surviving buildings, the massive building on the east side of the square is Karaköy Palace (Karaköy Palas), which was designed by Giulio Mongeri (1873-1953), an Italian born in Constantinople. It was completed in 1910 and has three separate entrances.
The building contains several Byzantine elements, such as porphyry panels and columns as well as semicircular arches. You can also see Byzantine influence around the entrances.
Karaköy Yeni Han
Just south of Karaköy Palace is Karaköy Yeni Han. It was built in 1893 and holds a branch of Akbank. There’s an inscription in French and Ottoman Turkish above the entrance. Unfortunately, I can’t find much more information about it.
Customs Directorate Building
Directly behind Karaköy Yeni Han is the old Customs Directorate Building (Gümrük Müdürlüğü Binası). It was built in 1903 and designed by Ottoman Greek architect Ioannis Karagiannis, whose signature is on the building. The Customs Directorate Building was restored over the period of about a year and reopened as the Karaköy Gümrük Restaurant in 2014.
Ziraat Bank Building
Just east of the Galata Bridge where Rıhtım Street begins is the Ziraat Bank Building. It was originally built by the Austrians as the Bank of Vienna between 1910 and 1912. It was also used as the Banque Française des Pays d’Orient and the Tobacco Regime (Tütün Rejisi) before becoming property of Ziraat Bank in 1944.
Two statues adorn the balcony of the building. The male statue represents industry while the female statue represents commerce. The building was under renovation during my last few visits to Istanbul. I look forward to seeing the results.
Nordstern Han
On the west side of the square across from the Tünel station is Nordstern Han (Nordstern Hanı). It was built in 1889 by Raphael Solomon Kamondo. The architect of the building is unknown but it’s often mistakenly attributed to Giulio Mongeri. He would have been only 16 at the time of its completion. The original branch of Baylan Pastanesi was once located in the building. Today, Nordstern Han serves as the Nordstern Hotel.
Zülfaris Synagogue
Hidden down an alley just off the west side of Karaköy Square is the Zülfaris Synagogue (Zülfaris Sinagogu). A synagogue has stood on the site since 1671. The current building opened on October 31, 1823. It was renovated in 1890 with funds from the Kamondo family. The synagogue closed permanently in 1983 because no more Jews lived in the area.
From 2001 to September 20, 2015, it hosted the Quincentennial Foundation Museum of Turkish Jews. I visited this location with a group of students in March 2012. The museum moved to the Neve Shalom Synagogue on January 14, 2016.
Eastern Half of Karaköy
The eastern half of Karakôy is the part that has undergone the incredible transformation I mentioned earlier. It’s now an important entertainment zone and is still undergoing changes.
Karaköy Quay
Karaköy Quay (Karaköy Rıhtım) is a pedestrianized area along the waterfront. It follows Rıhtım Street (Rıhtım Caddesi) and contains several restaurants and some historic buildings. It also holds one of the ferry terminals in the area.
Karaköy Quay is a great place to stroll and enjoy views of the old city across the water. You can spot Topkapi Palace and Hagia Sophia and look all the way across the Bosporus to the Asian side.
There are often people fishing on both sides of Karaköy Pier, where large city-run ferries pick up and drop off passengers heading to Üsküdar, Kadıköy, and up the Golden Horn.
Across from Karaköy Pier is an attractive historic building that I can’t seem to find any information about. I’ll keep searching and add information here if I find it.
Istanbul Port Authority
Two buildings down is the Istanbul Port Authority (İstanbul Liman Başkanlığı). It oversees the nearby Port of Istanbul, where large cruise ships dock. The port has been redeveloped as Galataport, a cruise ship terminal that began to open in August 2021.
Ömer Abed Han
Walking a block inland along Kemankeş Street is Ömer Abed Han. It was built in 1909 by Ottoman French architect Alexander Vallaury (1850-1921) for Arap Izzet Pasha, a clerk of Sultan Abdülhamid II.
There are two entrances to the building, although only the western entrance off Halil Paşa Street is used today. The building consists of three blocks with a central covered courtyard and is quite an interesting place to explore.
Underground Mosque
Continuing along Kemankeş Street is the Underground Mosque (Yeraltı Camii). Although it’s off the tourist radar, it’s one of the most intriguing mosques in Istanbul. It’s located in the cellar of a former Byzantine tower. The tower once held one end of the enormous chain that the Byzantines used to block ships from entering the Golden Horn. After Ottoman conquest, the cellar was used as ammunition storage.
In 1640, the bodies of three men, Süfyân bin Uyeyne, Amr bin As, and Vehb bin Hüşeyre, were discovered inside the cellar. It’s believed they were Arab soldiers who were captured and imprisoned in the cellar during the failed siege on Constantinople in the 7th century. Supposedly the location of their bodies was revealed to a Nakşibendi dervish in a dream. The mosque itself was built between 1753 and 1756 by Grand Vizier Köse Bahir Mustafa Pasha (d. 1765).
Kemankeş Karamustafa Pasha Mosque
At the next corner, Kemankeş Street opens up to a small plaza. If you turn left, you’ll come to the Kemankeş Karamustafa Pasha Mosque (Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Camii). The mosque was founded in 1643 and rebuilt in 1766. It sits on the site of the San Antonio Church, which was built by the Genoese and dates back to the 14th century. The church was confiscated by Ottomans in 1606 and the mosque was built on its ruins.
Reisülküttab Ismail Efendi Fountain
Next to the entrance of the Kemankeş Karamustafa Pasha Mosque is the Reisülküttab Ismail Efendi Fountain (Reisülküttab İsmail Efendi Çeşmesi). It dates back to 1732 and sits beneath the mosque’s former primary school. The structure looks very much like the Genoese buildings in Galata, although I can’t verify its origins. If so, perhaps it was part of the original church complex.
Çeçeyan Han
Continuing around the corner along Gümrük Street back towards Karaköy Square is Çeçeyan Han, also spelled Tchetcheyan Han. It’s an Ottoman Armenian building constructed in 1890. It contains Armenian script above the entrance.
Russian Orthodox Churches
While most of them are hardly noticeable, the eastern half of Karaköy is home to seven churches. Of these, four are Russian Orthodox churches. They’re all located within two blocks of each other, sitting atop buildings along Hoca Tahsin Street and Mumhane Street. They’re dedicated to St. Andrew, St. Panteleimon, Prophet Elijah, and the Holy Trinity.
The churches were built on the rooftops of hostels between 1880 and 1890 and served Russian pilgrims on their way to Jerusalem or Mount Athos in Greece. I was only able to spot St. Andrew, which has a green dome visible from street level. The rest are listed on the map above.
Turkish Orthodox Churches
The other three churches are the most enigmatic churches in Istanbul, belonging to the Turkish Orthodox Church. On March 5, 1924, the community of the Panagia Kaffatiani Church (see below) broke away from the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople. They declared themselves followers of the Turkish Orthodox Church, which was founded in Kayseri on September 15, 1922, by a Greek Orthodox priest, Pavlos Karahisarithis (1884-1968). He had met Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938) and became a strong supporter of his ideals. The breakaway Turkish church was supported by other Turkish-speaking Greek Orthodox priests from Anatolia who genuinely wanted to remain both Orthodox Christians and Turkish citizens.
In 1923, Karahisarithis moved to Istanbul, changed his name to Papa Eftim I, and was excommunicated by the Ecumenical Patriarch. Most of his supporters ended up being deported during the 1923 population exchange between Greece and Turkey. There are only a handful of followers today. Papa Eftim I and his descendants are buried in the Greek Orthodox Cemetery in Şişli.
Meryem Ana Turkish Orthodox Church
The most important is Meryem Ana Turkish Orthodox Church (Meryem Ana Türk Ortodoks Kilisesi), which is the seat of the Turkish Orthodox Patriarchate.
The church was originally built as the Panagia Kaffatiani Church in 1583 by Tryfon Korobeinikov. It was founded by Orthodox Christians from the Crimean city of Kaffa (now Feodosia) and was rebuilt in 1840.
Although there’s no staff on hand, the courtyard of the church is often open to visitors. It’s possible to enter the narthex and peek inside. My apologies for the terrible photo below.
Aziz Nikola Turkish Orthodox Church
A few steps to the west is Aziz Nikola Turkish Orthodox Church (Aziz Nikola Türk Ortodoks Kilisesi). It was built in the late 16th century by Tryfon Korobeinikov and rebuilt in 1804. It was seized from the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople in 1965. Much of the church was destroyed by fire in 2003, leaving it redundant.
Aziz Yahya Turkish Orthodox Church
Near Kemeraltı Street is Aziz Yahya Turkish Orthodox Church (Aziz Yahya Türk Ortodoks Kilisesi). It was also built by Tryfon Korobeinikov in the late 16th century. It burned down in 1696 and was rebuilt in 1698. The church was reconstructed in 1836 and again in 1853 by architects Matzini and Stamatis Falieros with the permission of Sultan Abdülmecid I. It was seized from the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople in 1965 and leased to the Assyrian Church of the East in the 1990s.
Interesting Building
Back towards the water along Kemankeş Street is an interesting building that caught my eye. It’s about a block and a half east of the former Karaköy Güllüoğlu location. I can’t find any information about it, but the tiles decorating the exterior are worth stopping to see.
Cité Francaise
Further along Kemankeş Street is Cité Francaise (Fransız Geçidi). It’s a historic shopping arcade dating back to the 1890s with fancy iron gates. It runs between Kemankeş Street and Mumhane Street.
Karaköy Police Station
Finally, next door to Cité Francaise is the Karaköy Police Station (Karaköy Polis Merkezi), which contains an ornate façade. It dates back to 1823 and is one of 250 police stations built in Constantinople during the reign of Sultan Mahmud II. Only 32 of these police stations survive, and the Karaköy branch is the best preserved.
Kemeraltı Street
Next, we’ll walk back to Karaköy Square down Kemeraltı Street (Kemeraltı Caddesi). It’s a busy street along the tram line and separates Karaköy from Galata. There are a few minor points of interest along the street.
Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Armenian Church
First, on the east side of the street is Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Armenian Church (Saint Gregory the Illuminator / Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Ermeni Kilisesi). It was originally completed in either 1391 or 1436. It’s the oldest Armenian Apostolic church in Istanbul and has survived several fires throughout the centuries.
The original church was demolished by the Turkish government in May 1958 in order to widen Kemeraltı Street. It was rebuilt between 1962 and 1965 by architect Bedros Zobyan and is half the width of the original church. You can try knocking on the door to gain access, but in my experience the caretaker has been cranky and reluctant to open for visitors.
Galata Greek Primary School
Directly across the street is the Galata Greek Primary School (Σχολή Γαλατά / Galata Rum İlköğretim Okulu). It was founded in 1885.
Saint Benoit French High School
A fbit further west is Saint Benoit French High School (Lycée Français Privé Saint-Benoît / Saint Benoit Fransız Lisesi). It was established in 1783 by French Lazarist friars and is now one of the most prestigious high schools in Turkey.
Church of Saint Benoit
On the grounds of Saint Benoit High School is the Church of Saint Benoit (Saint Benoit Latin Katolik Kilisesi). It’s the oldest Catholic church still in use in the city. It was founded by Genoese Benedictine friars on May 12, 1427, and was dedicated to Saint Benoit and the Virgin Mary (Santa Maria della Misericordia). The only remaining original monument is the 15th century bell tower.
In the 16th century, Süleyman the Magnificent threatened to convert the church into a mosque for Moors expelled from Spain. King François I of France intervened and it became the Royal Chapel of the Ambassador of France. The Jesuits took over on November 18, 1583. It burned down and was rebuilt several times, eventually becoming the most prestigious church in Galata and the burial place for many upper-class residents and aristocrats. Finally, as mentioned above, French Lazarists took over the complex in 1783.
Surp Pırgiç Armenian Catholic Church
Continuing west is Surp Pırgiç Armenian Catholic Church (Surp Pırgiç Ermeni Katolik Kilisesi). It’s the oldest Armenian Catholic church in Istanbul.
Surp Pırgiç was built under Mahmud II, who issued a decree allowing the Armenian Catholic community to build the church on October 7, 1831. Construction started on May 12, 1832 and it opened on January 13, 1834. The church served as the seat of the Armenian Catholic Patriarch of Cilicia from 1850 to 1928, when the patriarchate moved to Beirut. It’s hard to notice until you spot the small bell tower on top of the building.
Balıklı Han
Finally, just before reaching Karaköy Square is Balıklı Han. It was built in 1875 by Joachim II (1802-1878), the Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople. It sits on a former branch of the Balıklı Greek Hospital (Balıklı Rum Hastanesi) which is located in Zeytinburnu. The current building, which was designed by architect Ariditi Razi, was constructed to collect income for the hospital. It now houses the 10 Karaköy Hotel.
Western Half of Karaköy
The western half of Karaköy sits between the Golden Horn and Bankalar Street. It contains a handful of important historic landmarks. The Arab Mosque and the Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque are covered in separate posts.
Also called Perşembe Pazarı, Arapcami, or Azapkapı, local industry is very much alive in this section of Karaköy. You’ll find several shops selling industrial equipment and tools as well as skilled craftsmen plying their trade.
Karaköy Fish Market
First, nestled behind the Turyol ferry terminal just west of the Galata Bridge is the Karaköy Fish Market. Now strictly indoors, the market once spilled out onto what’s now a parking lot next to the ferry terminal. If you keep walking further past the market, there are a number of fish restaurants with outdoor tables.
Karaköy Seaside Park
Continuing west along the Golden Horn, you’ll come to a beautiful open space, Karaköy Seaside Park (Karaköy Sahil Parkı). It’s a great place to relax and escape the bustle of the city.
The park contains a nice grassy area and a running and cycling track that leads from the Turyol ferry terminal under the Golden Horn Metro Bridge and all the way to the Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Mosque. A boardwalk runs along the entire length of the track as well.
Hatibzade Yahya Pasha Fountain
On the east side of the park is the Hatibzade Yahya Pasha Fountain (Hatipzâde Yahya Paşa Çeşmesi). It was built in 1732 by Hatibzade Yahya Pasha (d. 1755), an Ottoman statesman and admiral. It’s been in a dilapidated state for quite some time but was finally under restoration during my last visit to the park in May 2022.
Mimar Sinan Statue
On the west side of the park next to the grassy area is a statue of the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. It was erected in 1987 and made by Turkish sculptor Haluk Tezonar (1942-1995).
Walls of Galata
Further to the west, just underneath the Golden Horn Metro Bridge, is one of the last remaining sections of the Genoese walls that once encircled Galata. They were built in the 14th century. All but a few sections were demolished in the 1870s to allow for expansion of the city. The walls were being restored at the time of my last visit to the area in May 2022.
Genoese Buildings
Heading back east, the most interesting structures to me are the Genoese buildings found throughout the neighborhood. The greatest concentration of them are located north of Tersane Street along Perşembe Pazarı Street and house workshops and hardware stores.
The most important of the Genoese buildings is the Genoese Courthouse (Ceneviz Mahkemesi). It and other Genoese buildings date back mostly to the 14th century, when Galata was a Genoese colony.
Further east towards Karaköy Square is another Genoese building. It sits along Billur Street.
Bereketzade Madrasa Mosque
Next to the Genoese building on Billur Street is the Bereketzade Madrasa Mosque (Bereketzade Medresesi Camii). It was originally built as a madrasa in 1705 by Bereketzade Mehmed Efendi. Over time, it was converted to a mosque.
Perhaps more impressive is the modern building towering above. It contains beautiful designs painted under the eaves as well as ornate motifs.
Fatih Bedesten
Back across busy Tersane Street (Tersane Caddesi) are two important Ottoman commercial structures. First, right along Tersane Street is the historic Fatih Bazaar (Fatih Çarşısı), also known as the Fatih Bedesten (Fatih Bedesteni). This trade center was built between 1453 and 1481 as the Galata Bedesten (Galata Bedesteni) by Mehmed the Conqueror. It contains 12 lead-covered domes and is in need of restoration.
Rüstem Pasha Han
Nearby is the Rüstem Pasha Han, which was built in 1561 by the Grand Vizier of Süleyman the Magnificent, Rüstem Pasha (c. 1505 – 1561). The architect was the great Mimar Sinan (c. 1490 – 1588). It was originally named Kurşunlu Han and was used mainly by non-Muslim merchants.
Rüstem Pasha Han was built atop the ruins of the Genoese church of Saint Michel. It’s a rectangular building with a central courtyard surrounded by two stories of arched porticoes. Today, it’s hidden behind several modern structures.
Some original elements of the church survive, including a slab on the floor and some brick decorations. There’s even an ancient column capital that’s been converted to a fountain.
Where to Eat in Karaköy
Ever since Karaköy has undergone its transformation from a dirty port area to a trendy neighborhood, lots of good restaurants and cafés have popped up. They’re a great complement to the classics that have been in the neighborhood for several years. I have yet to try many of these new places, but I’ve been impressed with the few I’ve been to.
Ali Ocakbaşı
Out of all the restaurants in Karaköy, the best I’ve been to is Ali Ocakbaşı. They have multiple branches in Istanbul, but my friend Duygu recommended the Karaköy branch for the amazing views. It’s a little hard to find – off a hidden alley west of Karaköy Square and up a rickety elevator – but once inside you’ll feel welcomed by the wonderful staff.
Reservations are recommended. If you’ve made reservations, you might be given a table with a great view across the Golden Horn.
Fixed Menu
On my first visit, I went with a group of 10. We all shared the fixed menu with alcohol, which is only offered to groups of six or more. It was a true feast and everyone went home stuffed and happy. The meal started with a selection of meze dishes and spreads, then came a small portion of lahmacun.
The feast continued with a huge assortment of meats. There were different types of kebabs and chicken wings. It was so much meat I lost track.
We finished off our night with excellent desserts. The semolina mixed with melted cheese was great, but the pumpkin topped with walnuts and sesame oil stole the show. Both are served with ice cream.
Ordering off the Menu
On another visit, we were a group of three and ordered off the menu. We started with a few meze dishes and each ordered a kebab. I had the fıstıklı kebap (pistachio kebab), which had bits of pistachio mixed in with the meat, while Marisol had a lamb kebab. They were as delicious as expected. Of course, we saved room for the same desserts as seen above.
On yet another visit with a tour group, we ordered some of my favorite specialties from before as well as çöp şiş. For dessert, we tried the katmer. Both were as tasty as the rest of the food.
Karaköy Güllüoğlu
Karaköy Güllüoğlu is the most famous place in Karaköy and the most famous baklava shop in Istanbul. It dates back to 1820 when it was founded in Gaziantep by Hacı Mehmed Güllü. On November 7, 1949, his grandson, Mustafa Güllü, opened the very first baklava shop in Istanbul. (Note: this post contains pictures of the former location of Karaköy Güllüoğlu, which has since been demolished. I’ll update with photos of the new location a few blocks east as soon as I have a chance.)
The original location on Kemankeş Street is usually jam packed with people, but it’s quite a spectacle. It looks disorganized, but they have a system that seems to work well amidst all the chaos. You order and pay at one counter, then take your receipt to another counter to pick up your order.
If it’s too crowded for your liking, you can walk a few blocks to the factory store on Mumhane Street to avoid the insanity.
Namlı Gurme
Namlı Gurme, located to the left of the baklava dealer, serves great Turkish breakfasts and sells all kinds of fresh Turkish products such as olives, cheeses, meats, breads, and pastries. (Note: this post contains pictures of the former location of Namlı Gurme, which has since been demolished. I’ll update with photos of the new location around the corner as soon as I have a chance.)
Çerkezköy Delicatessen (Permanently Closed)
To the right of the baklava legend is Çerkezköy Delicatessen. It was founded in 1956 and is much like Namlı Gurme. They have lots of Turkish products for sale as well as breakfasts, pizza, pasta, burgers, pastries, sandwiches, and more.
Karaköy Lokantası
Another classic restaurant is Karaköy Lokantası, which is located on the ground floor of the Novotel. They serve delicious traditional Turkish food for lunch (12pm to 4pm) and dinner (5pm to midnight). On Sundays, they’re open for dinner only from 4pm to midnight. Reservations are recommended for dinner while lunch is first come, first served. It’s easily one of the best restaurants in Karaköy. (Note: the restaurant has moved to the Novotel from its former location a couple blocks away.)
Fasuli
One night after walking through Galataport I visited Fasuli, which has a few branches in Istanbul and specializes in kurufasulye (stewed white beans). I was not impressed by either the service or beans. Service wasn’t very friendly and it took forever just to get a menu. The beans were decent but I’ve had much better.
Books & Coffee
If you’re in the mood for a good cup of coffee, pop into Books & Coffee on Karaköy Square next to Tünel. It’s a pleasant space offering your run-of-the-mill coffees like cappuccino, latte, and Turkish coffee as well as coffees brewed with alternative methods.
Anda (Permanently Closed)
Anda is a small café in the backstreets of Karaköy that also serves breakfast, sandwiches, and salads. It’s cozy and has a relaxed atmosphere with friendly service.
Mutfak Dili Ev Yemekleri (Permanently Closed)
My friend Matthias took me to Mutfak Dili Ev Yemekleri for lunch one day. This small restaurant served one of the best meals I’ve ever had in Istanbul. True to its name, they have delicious home-cooked meals. Their purpose is to provide the meals in a way food is traditionally cooked at home. They cook with a home-style oven with a charcoal furnace and don’t use any industrial equipment. Instead of a professionally trained chef, there’s a mother in the kitchen.
