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Tarlabaşı is a neighborhood in Istanbul west of Istiklal Street. It runs between Taksim Square and Tepebaşı and borders Kasımpaşa to the west.
History
Tarlabaşı was settled around 1535 for people working at the embassies in Beyoğlu. It was mostly populated by Levantines, Greeks, Armenians, and other non-Muslims. The neighborhood has been greatly affected by minority flight due to events such as the foundation of the Turkish Republic in 1923, a wealth tax established in 1942, and the anti-Greek pogrom of September 6-7, 1955.
When the minorities moved out, it gave low-income families an opportunity to move in. The neighborhood quickly turned into a slum around the 1960s. Furthermore, the construction of Tarlabaşı Boulevard in 1980 destroyed over 350 historic buildings and effectively isolated the neighborhood from the Taksim area.
Today, the area is home to a significant Romani population as well as many Kurds who moved there in the 1990s. Syrian refugees began to pour in in the 2010s along with African migrants. There’s also a significant transgender community.
Exploring Tarlabaşı
Most visitors to Istanbul will only see Tarlabaşı from Tarlabaşı Boulevard. What they see is only a façade. Thanks to its fantastic location, a government-sponsored gentrification program began there around 2006. The program has threatened the local community and the new construction blocked some of the “undesirable” buildings from view.
To really understand the neighborhood, it’s worth taking the time to explore Tarlabaşı. There isn’t anything touristic, but just walking through the streets will give visitors a good understanding of life in the area, its history, and its future.
Architecture
First of all, many of the buildings in Tarlabaşı are similar to what you would find on Istiklal Street. They’re of solid stone construction and designed by Greek, Armenian, and Levantine architects.
Many of these buildings are crumbling, but others have been nicely restored and are in good condition. These buildings are mixed in with unimpressive modern structures.
People
I really enjoyed meeting the locals. They were honest, had a good sense of humor, and were genuinely interested in talking to me. The people may give foreigners an odd look but they’re generally friendly and some even ask to pose for photos.
The only time we had a problem was taking photos of certain buildings. Some locals explained to us that residents of these buildings are worried the photos are for real estate purposes. They simply don’t want a big company to come in and kick them out of their homes.
My favorite scene in the neighborhood is people walking through the streets under laundry strung from building to building. It really brought forth the simplicity of the neighborhood. It gave me a sense that rather than getting caught up in all the problems of the world, the people were simply focused on day-to-day life.
Aynalı Çeşme
I lived in Tarlabaşı for about seven months and enjoyed my time there. My apartment was in an old Greek building on Aynalı Çeşme Street, just a short walk from Tepebaşı. I had a gorgeous view of the Golden Horn from my window and could hear the crowd at Kasımpaşa games. It was a wonderful place to live, and I got to know the local market owner across the street.
Aynalı Çeşme Street is considered one of the best places to live in Tarlabaşı. It’s clean, safe, friendly, and the location is excellent. There’s a bus stop a short walk from the street, and Istiklal Street is also nearby.
Adam Mickiewicz Museum
The landmarks are few and far between, but there are some remnants of the past to look for in the neighborhood. First, the Adam Mickiewicz Museum (Adam Mickiewicz Müzesi) is located in a house on Tatlı Badem Street. It’s dedicated to the life of Polish poet Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855).
Mickiewicz moved to the house in September 1855 to help organize Polish forces under the command of the Ottoman Army. He befriended and worked with Michał Czajkowski, also known as Sadık Paşa, who was in charge of the Polish forces. Mickiewicz died a few months later on November 26, probably of cholera. His body was kept in a crypt in the basement of the house for one month before being transported to Montmorency, France. It was repatriated to Krakow, Poland, in 1890, where he was buried at the Wawel Cathedral.
The house was renovated after a fire in 1870. It opened as a museum in 1955 with the help of the Museum of Literature in Warsaw. Apparently, it’s open daily except Mondays and admission is free (as of September 2023). It has never been open the few times I walked by.
Protestant Churches
On Emin Cami Street are two Protestant churches. The Aynalıçeşme Protestant Church (Aynalıçeşme Protestan Kilisesi) is easily noticeable. It dates back to 1846 and is the first Armenian Evangelical church in the world. The current building was built between 1905 and 1907. There’s also the inconspicuous German Protestant Church (Alman Protestan Kilisesi) next door.
Saints Constantine and Helen Greek Orthodox Church
Saints Constantine and Helen Greek Orthodox Church (Aya Konstantin Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi) is halfway down Kalyoncu Kulluğu Street. It was built in 1861 and restored in 1999 by the Commercial Bank of Greece (now Emporiki Bank). Apparently, the church is open to visitors one day a week early in the morning. I went on the specified day but it was closed.
Virgin Mary Syriac Orthodox Church
The Virgin Mary Syriac Orthodox Church (Meryem Ana Süryani Kadim Kilisesi) is located on Karakurum Street. It was built between 1961 and 1964 and is the only Syriac church in Istanbul. The church underwent a three year renovation and reopened on May 28, 2006.
Safety
My students warned me about safety in Tarlabaşı but I never had a problem during the day. At night, it’s a different story. I’ve had friends mugged or accosted while walking home in the dark.
