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The Pammakaristos Church (Θεοτόκος ἡ Παμμακάριστος) was one of the most important Byzantine churches in Constantinople. It’s located on the edge of the Çarşamba neighborhood of the Fatih district.

Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Pammakaristos Church

 

History

The Pammakaristos Church was built sometime between the 11th and 12th centuries, either during the reign of Emperor Michael VII Doukas or at the beginning of the Komnenos dynasty. It may sit on the site of another church erected in the 8th century.

Dome of the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Dome of the Pammakaristos Church

Shortly after 1310, a parecclesion (side chapel) was added to the south side of the church. It was built by Martha Glabas in memory of her husband, Michael Doukas Glabas Tarchaneiotes (1235-1304). He was a Byzantine general and aristocrat who was buried in the chapel.

Sarcophagus

After the Fall of Constantinople, the Pammakaristos Church remained in the hands of the Greek Orthodox community. The Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople moved its headquarters to the church in 1456, following three years at the Church of the Holy Apostles (now the site of the Fatih Mosque). The church remained the seat of the Patriarchate until 1587, when it moved to the Church of the Virgin Paramythia in Fener.

Inscription outside the church
Inscription outside the church

In 1591, Sultan Murad III converted the church into a mosque. He named it Fethiye Mosque (Fethiye Camii) in honor of his conquests of Georgia and Azerbaijan. In order to create a larger prayer hall, most of the interior walls of the church were removed.

Rear of the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Rear of the Pammakaristos Church

The main building remains a mosque to this day and the parecclesion is now a museum. The mosaics in the parecclesion were restored in 1949 by the Byzantine Institute of America and Dumbarton Oaks before opening as a museum.

Rear of the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Rear of the Pammakaristos Church

 

Fethiye Museum

The parecclesion of the Pammakaristos Church is now the Fethiye Museum. It contains the largest amount of Byzantine mosaics in Istanbul after Hagia Sophia and the Chora Church. Admission is 40₺ (as of April 2023) or free for holders of the Museum Pass Istanbul. It’s open daily. (Note: the museum is currently closed for restoration (as of April 2023).)

Exterior

 

Entrance

The entrance contains a fresco of the Three Wise Men on the wall. There are also fragments of frescoes along the north wall leading to the narthex. The walls were once covered with fine marble, which has long since been removed.

Entrance
Three Wise Men at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Three Wise Men
Fragment of a fresco
Fragment of a fresco

 

Narthex

In the narthex, there’s a tablet with an inscription in Greek as well as more fragments of frescoes. A red cross is painted on the wall to the left.

Inscription
Fragment of a fresco
Red cross at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Red cross

 

Naos

In the naos you’ll see the brilliant 14th century mosaics that the church is famous for. Other than the mosaics, four marble columns topped with beautifully carved capitals support the dome.

Naos at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Naos
Vault
Naos at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Naos
Dome at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Dome
Column capital at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Column capital

An inscription on the lintel of the south and west walls, written by Byzantine poet Manuel Philes of Ephesus (1275-1345), indicates the dedication of the chapel to Christ.

Inscription of the dedication of the chapel at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Inscription of the dedication of the chapel
Frescoes

The south wall contains a mosaic of the Baptism of Christ at the Jordan River. It’s completely intact.

Baptism of Christ at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Baptism of Christ

 

Dome

The mosaic in the dome depicts Christ Pantocrator holding a bible in his hand. He’s surrounded by the 12 prophets of the Old Testament: Moses, Jeremiah, Zephaniah, Micah, Joel, Zechariah, Obadiah, Habakkuk, Jonah, Malachi, Ezekiel, and Isaiah.

Dome at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Dome
Christ Pantocrator at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Christ Pantocrator
Jeremiah, Zephanaia, and Micah
Joel, Zechariah, and Obadiah
Habakkuk, Jonah, and Malachi
Ezekiel, Isaiah, and Moses

 

Apse

In the apse is a mosaic of Christ Hyperagathos with the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist at his sides. The vault above the apse depicts Archangels Michael, Uriel, Raphael, and Gabriel.

Apse at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Apse
Apse at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Apse
Christ Hyperagathos at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Christ Hyperagathos
Virgin Mary at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Virgin Mary
John the Baptist at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
St. John the Baptist
Archangels Michael, Uriel, Raphael, and Gabriel at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Archangels Michael, Uriel, Raphael, and Gabriel
Archangel Raphael at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
Archangel Raphael

 

Mosaics

The rest of the naos is decorated with several different mosaics of saints. There are 13 bishops represented on either side of the apse, of which six are missing. Six monk saints are depicted in the southwest section.

Gregory the Theologian at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
St. Gregory the Theologian
Gregory the Wonder Worker at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
St. Gregory the Wonder Worker
St. John Klimakos
St. Efthymios
Gregory of Armenia at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
St. Gregory the Illuminator
Gregory of Agrigentum at the Pammakaristos Church in Istanbul, Turkey
St. Gregory of Agrigentum
St. Chariton the Confessor
St. Sabbas
St. Arsenius the Great
St. Athanasius
Mosaic of a bishop
St. Vlasios
St. Gregory of Nyssa
St. Ignatius Theophoros
St. Cyril
Fresco of a bishop
St. Anthony of the Desert

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