Last updated on .
With snow-capped mountains, pristine lakes, magical rain forest, and wild Pacific beaches, Olympic National Park is one of the nation’s best. This park in northwest Washington has almost a million acres of wilderness waiting to be explored.
Introduction to Olympic National Park
Olympic National Park is a diverse are consisting of four regions: 60 miles (97 kilometers) of Pacific coastline, alpine areas, a rain forest on the west side, and dry forests on the east side. Ecosystems include a subalpine forest and wildflower meadow, a temperate forest, and the Pacific coast. 95% of the park is designated wilderness, and Native American communities live within the park boundaries. Check the official website for more info on the park.
Olympic National Park can trace its origins back to the 1890s, when Lieutenant Joseph P. O’Neil (1863-1938) and Judge James Wickersham (1857-1939) formally petitioned for the creation of a new national park. President Grover Cleveland took the first step by creating the Olympic Forest Reserve on February 22, 1897. It became Olympic National Forest in 1907, and Theodore Roosevelt established Mount Olympus National Monument on March 2, 1909. Franklin D. Roosevelt and Congress designated it a national park on June 29, 1938. The park expanded by 47,753 acres in 1953 to include the Pacific coastline. Finally, UNESCO declared Olympic National Park an International Biosphere Reserve in 1976, followed by a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1981.
I spent three days exploring Olympic with Marisol and my friend Tim. The weather didn’t cooperate with our plans and we had to scrap Hurricane Ridge, but we were able to replace it with a couple other areas.
Olympic National Park Entrance Fees
To enter Olympic National Park, it costs US$30 per vehicle or US$15 per person for individuals over age 16 without a vehicle (as of January 2025). Passes are good for 7 days. If you have an interagency pass, park entrance is free. You only have to pay when you pass through an entrance booth, and you’ll have to display your receipt on your dashboard at some parking lots. During our visit, we were only asked to pay a fee at the Hoh Rain Forest while entrance booths in other areas were closed.
Visitor Centers at Olympic National Park
There are three visitor centers at Olympic. The main visitor center and Wilderness Information Center are in the town of Port Angeles, but it was closed for renovation when we visited. Instead, a trailer outside the park headquarters served as a temporary visitor center.
The other two visitor centers are at Hoh Rain Forest and Hurricane Ridge. The Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center burned down on May 7, 2023, and there’s currently no timeline to replace it (as of January 2025). There’s also a ranger station at Kalaloch.
Accommodation at Olympic National Park
For overnight visits, there are several options available including lodges, cabins, and campgrounds. There are four lodges or cabins inside the park and several developed campgrounds. Some of the campgrounds are first come, first served, while you can book others in advance. Check the website for details on operating seasons and fees.
We stayed in Forks, which is the biggest town on the western side of the Olympic Peninsula. From there, we were able to explore several areas of the park, including the Pacific coast beaches and Hoh Rain Forest. Other accommodation is available in towns such as: La Push, Lake Quinault, and Neah Bay to the west; and Port Angeles, Port Townsend, and Sequim to the north.
Where to Eat at Olympic National Park
You’ll find food at each of the four lodges in the park as well as restaurants just outside the park boundaries.
Creekside Restaurant at Kalalock Lodge
The only meal we had at park facilities was at Kalaloch Lodge. It was a wet and cold day, and we decided to grab lunch at the lodge before heading back to Seattle. Creekside Restaurant offered a small but appetizing menu. I had clams while Marisol had the lentil soup. Both meals were decent but didn’t exactly fill us up for the price.
Toga’s Soup House (Permanently Closed)
We stopped for lunch in the small town of Port Angeles, which is the location of the Olympic National Park headquarters and the birthplace of NFL Hall of Fame quarterback John Elway. As we were leaving town on the way to the Lake Crescent area, we spotted Toga’s Soup House. The weather was cold, windy, and wet – a perfect day for soup. When we walked in, the line was nearly out the door and every table was full. This was definitely a good sign.
The owner was sitting at the register, and when it was our turn, she apologized for the long wait and took our order. I had a half roast beef sandwich with chili while Marisol had a salad. Our friend Tim had a bowl of black bean soup. We were all very satisfied with our meals.
Hard Rain Cafe
On the road to the Hoh Rain Forest is the Hard Rain Cafe and Mercantile, a small restaurant and gift shop. It sits next to the Sv. Nikolai memorial. Unfortunately, we couldn’t eat anything because they didn’t have the ingredients at the time. They do have a campground and RV park as well as a cabin for rent, making it a good alternative to camping within the national park.
Safety at Olympic National Park
Park rangers take wildlife safety very seriously. Many potentially dangerous animals live in the park including bears, cougars, and mountain goats. It’s best to keep a safe distance from these animals.
The other issue is tides. If you plan on hiking and camping along the Pacific coast, you need to plan ahead to avoid getting trapped by the tides. Tide charts are available at visitor centers and ranger stations. You’ll also need a wilderness permit to camp on the coast.
Activities at Olympic National Park
Fishing, wilderness hiking and camping, climbing, boating and other activities are available. Check the official website for more information on these activities and a schedule of ranger guided programs.
Lake Crescent Area
After our original plan to visit Hurricane Ridge fell through, we decided to head to the Lake Crescent area of Olympic National Park for a quick look at the lodge and a short hike. It’s only 18 miles west of Port Angeles.
Lake Crescent was formed when a landslide separated it from Lake Sutherland around the 5th millennium BC. The Crescenti and Beardslee trout, which are a subspecies of rainbow trout, developed as a result of genetic isolation. There are plenty of hiking trails and picnic areas around Lake Crescent, and it’s possible to go out onto the lake during the summer and fall.
Lake Crescent Viewpoint
As we drove along the shore of the deep glacial lake, we stopped at the Lake Crescent Viewpoint to take some photos. Visibility wasn’t that great and the clouds were low, but the scenery was still gorgeous.
Lake Crescent Lodge
Next, we stopped at Lake Crescent Lodge to change into our hiking boots and get a hot drink. The lodge was built in 1915 and features a restaurant. Inside, there’s a nice fireplace to sit around. Outside, there are small cottages available for rent.
A short pier next to the lodge juts out onto the lake. From there, you can get spectacular views of both the lake and lodge. If you’re up to it, paddle boats and kayaks are available for rent.
Marymere Falls
Once we finished at the lodge, we drove to the Marymere Falls trailhead. The trail starts at the Storm King Ranger Station, passes through a short tunnel, and goes a little more than a half mile through the forest before reaching the falls.
Near the end of the trail, you cross two bridges and wind your way up to Marymere Falls. There’s a lower and upper viewing area. The falls have a height of 90 feet and flow into Barnes Creek.
Sol Duc Valley
The Sol Duc Valley is south of Lake Crescent. It features a historic resort, plenty of hiking trails, and an incredible natural phenomenon. The main feature running through the valley is the Sol Duc River.
Salmon Cascades
Our first stop was the most enjoyable. We pulled over at Salmon Cascades and walked to a small platform overlooking the Sol Duc River. In October and November, coho salmon swim upstream on their way to spawn. Steelhead and cutthroat trout as well as sockeye and chinook salmon also spawn in the river.
At first, we couldn’t see anything from the platform. We realized all the action was a few steps down to the right. After heading down to take a look, we witnessed the fish trying to jump over the falls, some successfully and many others being pushed back by the force of the water.
Even further down, we could see the fish using the rocks on the banks of the river to slither their way closer before attempting the great leap. This is something we’ll never forget.
Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort
Next, we made a quick stop at Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort for a hot chocolate. While the original structure no longer exists, it dates back to 1910 when Michael Earles began catering to visitors to the natural hot springs. The resort was considered one of the finest on the west coast and attracted up to 10,000 guests every summer. Unfortunately, in 1916 a mishap with a fireplace caused a massive fire on the cedar roof and it burned to the ground. The resort was rebuilt in the 1920s but on a less elegant scale. It operated until the 1970s, and was again rebuilt in the 1980s.
Sol Duc Falls
Our final activity of the day was a hike to Sol Duc Falls. The trail is just under a mile long through a forest.
Our favorite part of the trail was at a small wooden bridge, where the scenery is breathtaking. The bridge crosses over a small creek with water flowing over moss-covered rocks as tall trees stand above. It’s one of my favorite scenes in the entire park.
Continuing along the trail, we crossed a bridge over the Sol Duc River to the viewing platform for the falls. We had to leap over a few deep puddles to cross the bridge.
Finally, we were able to get a look at the falls. The force of the water was incredible. I’m not sure if it’s always so strong or if it was because of the heavy rains before our visit.
Pacific Beaches at Olympic National Park
We spent two days exploring (or trying to explore) some of the Pacific beaches at Olympic National Park. The beaches are often described as “wild” in many park publications, and for good reason. They’re part of the longest stretch of undeveloped beach in the contiguous United States.
Shi Shi Beach
If you’re looking for a bit of adventure, you’ll find it at Shi Shi Beach. This remote Pacific coast beach is accessible via a two-mile trail starting at the Makah Reservation. We hiked there on our first day exploring the beaches at Olympic National Park.
Before hiking to Shi Shi Beach (pronounced “shy shy”), you have to purchase a recreation permit from the Makah Reservation. This is because the first part of the trail cuts through Makah land. You can purchase your pass at the Makah Museum, Pat’s Place, the Makah Mini Mart, and other businesses in Neah Bay. It costs US$20 (as of January 2025) and is good for the whole calendar year. Make sure to display it on your dashboard at the parking lot.
You can do Shi Shi Beach as a day hike, or continue along the beach all the way to the Ozette area or La Push, camping along the way. If you plan to camp, you’ll need a wilderness permit from Olympic National Park. You’ll also need a tide chart to avoid getting trapped by the tides.
The parking lot for the trail is a short drive from Neah Bay. There’s a toilet and garbage cans there and none along the trail, so be sure to take your garbage back out with you.
Shi Shi Beach Trail
The trail runs for about two miles to the beach through the forest. It’s fairly flat along boardwalk and dirt. The first mile is relatively dry, but be prepared for deep mud on the second mile. We were covered in it up to our ankles when we returned to the car.
Near the end of the trail, you start to get glimpses of the Pacific Ocean. Finally, you reach the park boundary, indicated by a box with notices posted on it. One of them welcomes you to Olympic National Park.
From there, it’s a very steep and slippery path down to the beach. During our visit, National Park Service employees were busy building a stairway. I’m sure it’ll be a huge help and much safer when it’s done.
At the bottom, there’s a path with moss-covered trees. From there, you can find an open space in the brush to access the beach.
Exploring Shi Shi Beach
We walked onto a completely empty Shi Shi Beach with ferocious waves pounding onto the shore and a strong wind blowing off the ocean. The ranger the day before told us to expect swells of up to 15 feet and to watch the tides.
We stayed a good 30 minutes on the beach to admire the scenery before heading back to the trail. The shore was lined with sea stacks and rocks belonging to the Flattery Rocks National Wildlife Refuge, a section of the Washington Islands Wilderness.
It would have been another 2 ½ miles south to Point of Arches, a mile long stretch of sea stacks and tide pools and a National Natural Landmark. With the wind and weather, we decided not to continue. Instead, we walked north along the beach until the tide started to swallow up the corner.
Unfortunately, we came across a sea lion that had washed up on the beach. The National Park Service asks visitors to report any large dead animal such as a whale or sea lion that they see on the beach.
After our time at the beach, it took us a little over an hour to get back to the car. We were happy to have hiked to Shi Shi Beach. It was as wild and as beautiful as we had imagined. Next time, we hope to be a bit more adventurous and hike down as far as we can, preferably all the way to La Push.
Second Beach
The first beach we visited on our second day was on an early morning hike to Second Beach, located near the village of La Push. It’s an easy 0.7 mile one-way trail with a short but steep descent at the end. Most of the trail is through a dense forest.
At the end of the trail, we ran into several logs washed up on the shore. We had to carefully climb over them in order to reach the beach.
We explored beach and admired the stacks for a good 20 minutes until the tide started to come in. The stacks along the beach are part of the Quillayute Needles National Wildlife Refuge, a section of the Washington Islands Wilderness. Meanwhile, the wind gusts were so powerful, we were able to fall backwards with the wind holding us up.
Rialto Beach
Next, we drove to Rialto Beach, which is in the Mora area on the other side of La Push. We had to walk over a few fallen logs to get to the black rock beach.
The rain was driving by this point, and combined with the wind, it was more than a bit miserable. This thwarted our plans to walk to Hole-in-the-Wall, a natural arch about a mile up the coast, and see more sea stacks. The stacks off Rialto Beach are part of the Quillayute Needles National Wildlife Refuge
Ruby Beach
After a detour to the Hoh Rain Forest, we made our way to Ruby Beach. The best we could do is admire it from an overlook at the parking lot. The rain was coming down hard and the tides were high. The stacks at Ruby Beach are depicted on several postcards and posters sold at the park, and are part of the Quillayute Needles National Wildlife Refuge. I guess we’ll have to wait until next time to get closer.
Kalaloch
Finally, before driving back to Seattle, we stopped at Kalaloch for a quick bite. We couldn’t do much other than look at Kalaloch Creek, again because of the rain. Apparently, the area is popular for bird watching, beach hiking, and tidal pools.
Kalaloch Lodge
As for Kalaloch Lodge, it’s the only seaside lodging within Olympic National Bark. In the 1920s, Charles W. Becker Sr. purchased a 40-acre plot of land and built the original lodge and cabins, using lumber milled from pieces of driftwood that washed ashore on surrounding beaches. The current main lodge was built in 1953. The property was sold to the National Park Service in 1978. Inside, you’ll find one of the best restaurants in the park as well as a store for supplies and gifts.
Hoh Rain Forest
The Hoh Rain Forest is one of the most magical areas of Olympic National Park. One of the largest temperate rain forests in the United States, it receives between 140 and 170 inches of rain annually.
Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center
After passing through the entrance gates, we parked at the Hoh Rain Forest visitor center and took a quick look around. Outside, the UNESCO plaque is displayed on a wall near the entrance. Inside, the exhibits weren’t as thorough as we expected so it didn’t take very long before we hit the trails.
Trails at the Hoh Rain Forest
There are three short trails at the Hoh Rain Forest – the Hall of Mosses Trail, the Spruce Nature Trail, and the Mini Trail. The paved mini trail is ¼ mile long and is good for children and people with disabilities, as well as those with limited time. It’s connected to the other trails and right outside the visitor center, so we were able to see everything on the mini trail by doing the longer trails.
The Hoh Rain Forest is also the start of the 17.4 mile long Hoh River Trail, which leads to Glacier Meadows at the foot of Mount Olympus. It’s something I would like to do with more time.
Hall of Mosses Trail
We started with the Hall of Mosses Trail, which is a ¾ mile long loop trail through old spruce and maple trees covered in moss. When you’re on the trail for the first time, it’s an otherworldly feeling. The rain dripping softly mixed with the sound of the wind and periods of silence will make you feel like you’re on another planet.
Spruce Nature Trail
Next, we did the Spruce Nature Trail, which is a 1 ¼ mile long loop under some of the tallest Sitka spruce trees on the planet. They stand alongside other thick rain forest vegetation.
About halfway through the trail, we came to the Hoh River. The source of the grayish blue water is the Hoh Glacier high on Mount Olympus. Across the river, the fog covered the trees to produce an eerie scene.
Continuing along the trail, we walked past uprooted trees and learned how seedlings feed off nutrients from the dead trees in order to survive.
The last part of the trail is partially along a creek and then through more of the thick rain forest.
Sv. Nikolai Memorial
On our way out of the rain forest, we made a couple of quick stops outside the park boundaries. The first stop was at a memorial to the Sv. Nikolai, a Russian-American Company ship that ran aground on the Olympic Peninsula in November 1808. Interpretive panels tell the details of the story. There are picnic tables next to it.
In order to survive, the crew had to raid Native American villages for food while others became slaves of the Makah people. The Makah agreed to free them next time a ship passed through the Strait of Juan de Fuca, which occurred at Neah Bay in the spring of 1810. 22 crew members were aboard the ship and 7 died before the others were rescued.
