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The Barbas Bremen Nature Reserve (Reserve Natural Barbas Bremen) is a section of virgin Andean humid forest in the Coffee Region of Colombia. It’s located near the town of Filandia.
Introduction to the Barbas Bremen Nature Reserve
The Barbas Bremen Nature Reserve covers about 96 square kilometers (37 square miles) around the Barbas River canyon and is an area of great biodiversity. In addition to waterfalls and the lush green forest, it’s home to over 200 species of plants and at least 325 species of birds. There are also about 75 species of mammals and 95 species of ants. Among the endangered species living there are the red howler monkey, Andean bear, and mountain tapir.
The name “Barbas”, which translates to beard, has two origins. First, according to legend, a bearded man named Abraham went into the forest to look for his cow that had wandered off. He never returned. His friends and family went looking for him, only to find his jawbone with the beard still attached. The other is that when Spanish soldiers first came to the area, they noticed small ferns growing on the trunks of several trees. They referred to the ferns as beards. As for “Bremen”, it’s named for the hometown of someone who had moved to Colombia from Germany.
Visiting the Barbas Bremen Nature Reserve
If you want to visit the reserve, you’ll definitely need a guide as the trails aren’t marked and it’s easy to get lost. The easiest way to do this is to take a tour from Filandia. They’re usually billed as “howler monkey tours” and can be booked at any agency in town.
The tours usually cost about COP$110,000 per person (as of August 2025) and the minimum age is 5. They take about three hours to complete. Don’t worry about the physical level of the hike. There are several trails and the guides will adjust the tour to what fits best for you. You won’t necessarily take the same trails I’ve written about below.
One word of warning: if you’re expecting to see a howler monkey, you’ll probably come out disappointed. You’re never guaranteed to see one, or any wildlife for that matter, so it’s best to go in with an open mind and enjoy the experience.
Our guide, Jaime, is an excellent person to take you through the reserve. He’s a former sniper in the Colombian Army who was stationed for several years in some of the country’s most inhospitable territory. He was the one who told us from the very beginning not to expect to see a howler monkey, and that his tour would focus on the indigenous culture of the region, the rich flora and fauna we’ll see on the trails, and the importance of preserving Barbas Bremen. If you want to hire Jaime to guide you through the reserve, let me know and we’ll contact him for you.
Recommendations for the Hike
- Wear dark clothing.
- For better protection, wear long sleeves, long pants, and a hat.
- You should use bug spray because there are lots of mosquitoes along the trail.
- Take a small backpack, plenty of water, and a snack.
- Wear hiking boots with good traction, but mud boots may be provided if it has been raining.
Our Tour of Barbas Bremen Nature Reserve
Jaime met us at the plaza in Filandia and we hopped on a jeep for a short ride down a very rough road to Palacio de Barbas. Once there, we changed out our hiking boots for sturdier mud boots and had a cup of coffee under the shed. Jaime showed us a few natural specimens found in the forest.
Next, we started the hike through the forest. At the beginning of the trail, Jaime grabbed some leaves off a citronella bush to wrap around our walking sticks. This would prove vital to keeping the mosquitoes away as much as possible.
From there, the vegetation got thicker and thicker. Jaime would stop at a few different trees to show us their unique features and how indigenous peoples would use them.
Entering the Old-Growth Forest
At one point, we reached the border of the old-growth forest marked by a collection of several dream catchers. Jaime hung another one as an offering to El Duende, a spirit that lives in the forest trying to make people get lost.
We stopped at a small shelter to take a 20-minute break. During that time, Jaime gave us a quick demonstration on how native people and now locals weave baskets from a vine found in the forest.
We then continued on through the forest, which got more dense. The trail also got more narrow and bit more difficult, having to keep our balance by holding a rope a couple times.
At the bottom, we came to a beautiful waterfall. Jaime gave us the option to swim but we preferred staying dry for the rest of the hike.
Climbing back up through the forest, Jaime spotted a barranquero (Amazonian motmot). Other than a millipede, it would be the only wildlife we’d see that day. The elusive red howler monkeys didn’t come out to play!
Our last stop was another shelter where we sat for a few minutes and had a snack. From there, it was a 20-minute walk back up to the finca.
Returning to the Finca
We finally reached the finca after an enjoyable and educational hike. We had a few minutes to rest on the deck before the owner called us over for some fresh guarapo (sugar cane juice) with lemon. After that, we washed off our mud boots, hopped on the jeep, and returned to Filandia. Overall, it was a fantastic and memorable morning.
