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The Syntagma neighborhood is the area surrounding Syntagma Square in Athens, Greece. In addition to the square, it contains a few points of interest.
Syntagma Square
The natural place to start exploring the area is Syntagma Square (Πλατεία Συντάγματος), which is the most important square in modern Athens. It’s the national center of government and commerce as well as a major transportation hub.
History of Syntagma Square
Syntagma Square was built between 1836 and 1843. It was originally named Palace Square after the Old Royal Palace (see below) built on its east side for King Otto.
On September 3, 1843, a popular and military uprising led by Dimitrios Kallergis (1803-1867) took place in the square, forcing King Otto to grant the first Constitution of Greece. The square was then renamed Syntagma Square, meaning Constitution Square.
Today, Syntagma Square hosts numerous events and festivals throughout the year. It’s also a popular place for both celebrations and protests, and a busy transportation hub.
Hellenic Parliament
The focal point of the square is the Hellenic Parliament building, which was formerly the Old Royal Palace. It was built between 1836 and 1843 as the official residence of Greek monarchs.
The Old Royal Palace was designed by German architect Friedrich von Gärtner (1791-1847) and built with funds donated by King Otto’s father, King Ludwig I of Bavaria (1786-1868). The original proposed location was at Omonoia Square, but Syntagma Square was deemed more suitable.
The building was severely damaged by fire in 1909, and the royal family moved into the Crown Prince’s Palace (now the Presidential Mansion) a block away. It underwent a long renovation, and in 1924, when the monarchy was abolished, it became property of the government. The building was then used as government offices, a refugee shelter for Greek refugees from Asia Minor in the aftermath of the Greco-Turkish War of 1919-1922, a museum, and other purposes.
In 1929, the government decided to permanently move Parliament from the Old Parliament House (now the National Historical Museum) into the Old Royal Palace. It went through another long renovation and the first session was held on August 2, 1934. Although the monarchy was later restored in 1935, the building has housed the Parliament ever since.
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
In front of Parliament is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, which is covered in another entry. The tomb is a popular tourist attraction where the Changing of the Guard can be witnessed hourly.
Hotels on Syntagma Square
Syntagma Square contains some of the finest hotels in Athens, including the Grand Bretagne and the King George. There are also shops, banks, and fast food restaurants.
Athenian Fortification
At the northeast corner of the square, is a small archaeological site. It contains part of the ancient Athenian fortification.
Syntagma Metro Archaeology Exhibit
Finally, heading underground to the Syntagma metro station, the busiest in the entire Athens transportation network, you’ll find a small archaeology exhibit.
The exhibit highlights items discovered during the construction of the metro line station. They come from the Amalias Shaft near the Zappeion and the National Garden Shaft. A late Roman period bath complex was unearthed near the Amalias Shaft as well as Byzantine storage jars and other pottery.
In the National Garden Shaft, archaeologists found the remains of the so-called Peisistratid aqueduct. They also found a Roman period building and 35 tombs. Some artifacts were transferred to the Byzantine Museum while others are on display in the metro station.
Ermou Street
Heading to the rest of the area, first, running west of Syntagma Square is Ermou Street. It makes up one of the most popular shopping areas of the city. About the first 700 meters of the street to Aiolou Street is pedestrianized. It runs through to Monastiraki Square and all the way to the Kerameikos archaeological site.
Ermou Street is one of the most expensive shopping streets in Europe. It was laid out in 1833 by Greek architect Stamatios Kleanthis (1802-1862) and his German partner Eduard Schaubert (1804-1860). The section starting at Syntagma Square was pedestrianized in 1997.
Agia Dymani
A couple blocks west of Syntagma Square down Mitropoleos Street is Agia Dynami. This tiny 16th century church was erected atop the ruins of an ancient temple dedicated to Hercules. It was restored in 1912 and again in the 1950s.
In the 1950s, the Greek government attempted to purchase the church and the land around it from the Greek Orthodox Church to build a new headquarters for the Ministry of Education, but the Church refused. Instead, they leased the land to the government and the building was literally built right over the church. The building was converted to the Electra Metropolis Hotel in 2016.
Under the floor of the church is a tunnel measuring 15 meters long. Legend has it that Orthodox priests hid church treasures and documents in the tunnel during the Ottoman occupation. However, those items were eventually destroyed. The tunnel also connects to a large cave complex that some say reaches the Acropolis and even the Kaisariani Monastery to the east.
Church of the Holy Trinity
Hidden across the street to the west of the National Garden is the Church of the Holy Trinity, which was once the largest church in Athens. The church was built by the Byzantines sometime between 1031 and 1044 as part of Panagia Soteira Lykodimou, a female monastery.
When Athens came under the control of the Franks in 1204, it was occupied by Venetian monks who stayed until 1669. It then came back under the control of the Greek Orthodox as a male monastery. The entire monastery except for the church was torn down in 1778 by Ottoman governor Hacı Ali Haseki (d. 1795).
The Church of the Holy Trinity was heavily damaged by an Ottoman cannonball in 1827 during the Siege of the Acropolis and left to fall into ruin. Russian Tsar Nicholas I (1796-1855) purchased the building in 1847 for the Russian Orthodox community in Athens, provided that it be restored to its original state. Restoration was carried out between 1850 and 1855, and the Russians continue to use it to this day.
The church was built on a cross-in-square plan and is topped with a dome. Frescoes on the interior were completed in the 19th century under German artist Ludwig Thiersch (1825-1909) with the assistance of Greek painters Nikiforos Lytras (1832-1904) and Spyridon Hatzigiannopoulos. Icons brought by refugees of the October Revolution in 1917 are also inside.
Saint Paul’s Anglican Church
Nearby is Saint Paul’s Anglican Church. It opened on Palm Sunday in 1843 as one of the very first foreign churches in Athens. The church has the oldest pipe organ in Greece and often hosts cultural events. At the time of its consecration, it was on the outskirts of the city.
Jewish Museum of Greece
About a block away from Saint Paul’s is the Jewish Museum of Greece. It was established in 1977 and originally located in a building next to the city’s synagogue. Its collection expanded and it moved to another building in 1984, and to its current location in 1997. I have yet to visit.
Presidential Palace
Finally, just east of the National Garden is the Presidential Mansion. It’s the official residence of the President of Greece. The mansion was built as the Crown Prince’s Palace between 1891 and 1897 for Constantine I (1868-1923) when he was heir to the throne. It was designed by German architect Ernst Ziller (1837-1923).
After a fire gutted the Old Royal Palace (now Hellenic Parliament), the royal family moved into the Crown Prince’s Palace and lived there until the monarchy was abolished in 1924. It was used as the Presidential Mansion from 1924 to 1935 until the monarchy was restored, and again as the royal family’s residence from 1935 to 1973. Since 1974, it returned to use as the Presidential Mansion. All official state functions are held there.
The Presidential Mansion is guarded by the Evzones, who also conduct the Changing of the Guard every hour on the hour, 24 hours a day. This Changing of the Guard ceremony is a good alternative to the one in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier on Syntagma Square. It’s much less crowded.
