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Comuna 13 in Medellín was once considered not only the most dangerous neighborhood in Colombia, but in all of South America. Things have changed dramatically over the past few years and the area is now a tourist hotspot.
Tours of Comuna 13
There are numerous outlets offering tours to Comuna 13, but we chose Comuna 13 Tours due to their fantastic reputation. They offer daily tours in English that last four hours and cost COP$100,000 per person (as of March 2024). Reservations are requested by email in advance, and payment is made after the tour. Tours run at 10am and 3pm.
Start of the Tour
The tour begins outside the ticket box of the Poblado metro station in El Poblado. There we met our guide, Walter, and about 10 others taking the tour. Walter purchased our metro tickets, walked us down onto the platform, and gave a short lecture about what we would see that day.
Metrocable
We took the metro to the San Javier station where we jumped on the Metrocable and rode a cable car to the station at Juan XXIII, where there’s a vantage point above the city. Walter told us about the violent history of Comuna 13, thanks to the guerrillas and drug wars, and how things have improved since the local government began investing in escalators and cable cars. We then went up to another station, La Aurora, before riding back down to San Javier.
Entering Comuna 13
From there, we rode the cable car back down to San Javier station. Walter then took us to a juice bar and treated the group to lulo juice and an arepa de chócolo. When everyone was finished, we jumped on a bus to where the escalators are located. We immediately began seeing some of the colorful graffiti that decorates the area.
As we walked and rode the escalators up the hill, Walter described the social and political meaning behind some of the graffiti. He also told us a few details about the artists and their backgrounds. Many have become famous all around the world for their artistic talent.
As far as the escalators, there are six in total that make the walk up to the top much more bearable than in the past. Each escalator is covered and kept in immaculate condition.
At the Top of Comuna 13
Once we reached the top, we were treated to some spectacular views of Medellín. The rooftops seemed endless, and the sprawl reached the hills on the other side of the valley. It’s even more spectacular at night.
Some of the most brilliant graffiti is at the top of Comuna 13, where the top artists have left their mark. We walked past several impressive murals that all had a special meaning.
It seems like every subject was covered, from political and social injustice, homage to the indigenous and Afro-Colombian populations, and memorials to fallen members of the community.
At the end, a local rap group gave us a quick concert and picked up the mood of the group. There are also other performers such as breakdancers, and we were also treated to a show by Skill Flavor.
Chota’s Café
From there, we walked back down near the escalators and had a coffee lemonade at a café run by Chota, one of the local artists. One of the interesting things on the wall was a collage of pictures of Chota with Bill Clinton during the former president’s visit to Medellín.
Cremas de la 13
On another visit with Walter, he stopped at Cremas de la 13 for us to try iced green mango with salt and lime. It was a delicious treat after walking in the heat.
End of the Comuna 13 Tour
When everyone finished their treat, Walter walked us back down to the bus, passing more amazing graffiti. He then continued with us to the metro station and escorted everyone back to El Poblado.
My Thoughts
Personally, I believe it’s the best tour in Medellín. Rather than focusing on the violent past of the city, it shows visitors the results of hope and possibility. The graffiti is the draw, but it’s the people and transformation of the neighborhood that leave a lasting impression.
