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Kurtuluş is a neighborhood in the district of Şişli in Istanbul, Turkey. I lived there for nearly a year and enjoyed my time there.
History
The neighborhood was first settled in the 16th century by Greeks from the island of Chios who came to work in the docks at Kasımpaşa. The original name was Tatavla (Ταταύλα). It remained an entirely Greek neighborhood through the 19th century and was predominantly Greek until the 1955 anti-Greek pogrom. It was home to the popular Baklahorani carnival, which dates back to at least the 19th century.
On April 13, 1929, a devastating fire wiped out many of the historic homes in the neighborhood. 207 houses burned to the ground. After the fire, the name was changed to Kurtuluş. It means “deliverance”, “liberation”, or “salvation”, depending on the context. This is seen by many as an affront to the Greek population.
Kurtuluş Street
Kurtuluş is a cosmopolitan neighborhood featuring Turks, Armenians, Greeks, Jews, Africans, and other expats. To get a good feel for the neighborhood, walk down Kurtuluş Street (Kurtuluş Caddesi). There are several shops, restaurants, and residential buildings along the way.
St. Demetrios Greek Orthodox Church
It isn’t a touristic place, but the neighborhood contains a few points of interest related to its Greek past. At the end of Kurtuluş Street is St. Demetrios Greek Orthodox Church (Άγιος Δημήτριος / Aya Dimitri Rum Kilisesi). The current building dates back to 1726, but it’s believed a church stood on the site in the 16th century. The church is open daily for worship.
St. Athanasios Greek Orthodox Church
A few blocks to the west is St. Athanasios Greek Orthodox Church (Άγιος Αθανάσιος / Aya Tanaş Rum Kilisesi). It was built between 1855 and 1858. Thanks to the Tanzimat reforms, it became the very first Greek Orthodox church in the city that was allowed to have a bell tower and dome since 1453.
Twelve Apostles Greek Orthodox Church
Finally, in the Feriköy area just west of is Twelve Apostles Greek Orthodox Church (Δώδεκα Απόστολοι / Feriköy Oniki Apostol Rum Kilisesi). It was completed in May 1868 and has been renovated since my last visit.
St. Eleftherios Greek Orthodox Cemetery
Taking up a large plot of land a few blocks west of Kurtuluş Street is the St. Eleftherios Greek Orthodox Cemetery (Aya Lefter Rum Ortodoks Mezarlığı). Apparently, it’s open every morning from 9am to noon. I took a quick stroll through the cemetery and admired some of the beautiful tombstones. There’s also a small funerary chapel on the grounds.
Madam Despina (Permanently Closed)
Madam Despina is a traditional meyhane (taverna) opened by a Greek woman from the island of Gökçeada (Imbros) who moved to the neighborhood in 1946. Before she died in 2006, she transferred ownership to one of her employees, who continues to run the meyhane in her memory. It’s a great hangout frequented by locals and the food is delicious. Madam Despina’s portrait still hangs at the entrance.
