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Canyonlands National Park is a diverse desert playground located near the town of Moab in southeastern Utah. The park offers views unlike anything I’ve ever seen and excellent hiking trails through primitive landscapes.
Introduction to Canyonlands National Park
Canyonlands National Park preserves a colorful desert landscape full of canyons, buttes, and mesas formed by the Green and Colorado Rivers. It’s popular with visitors for a variety of different activities including hiking, mountain biking, backpacking, rafting, and more.
The first person to advocate for the creation of a national park was Bates Wilson (1912-1983), the superintendent of Arches National Monument (now Arches National Park) in the early 1950s. He first explored what is now the Needles district and eventually proposed other areas for inclusion after exploring them as well.
The idea didn’t gain traction until 1961, when Secretary of the Interior Stewart Udall (1920-2010) flew over the area on his way to a conference at Grand Canyon National Park. He began promoting the establishment of Canyonlands, and Utah Senator Frank Moss (1911-2003) introduced the first bill towards this goal. It was debated, struck down, revised, and reintroduced several times before finally being passed and signed into law by President Lyndon B. Johnson on September 12, 1964. Bates Wilson, known as the “Father of Canyonlands”, became the park’s first superintendent.
Planning Your Trip to Canyonlands National Park
Canyonlands is broken down into four different districts: Island in the Sky, the Needles, the Maze, and the Green and Colorado Rivers. Another unit, Horseshoe Canyon, is detached from the rest of the park and showcases Native American rock art.
I spent one full day at Island in the Sky and another at the Needles. Island in the Sky is the most easily accessible district and requires very little hiking. There are some great trails but if you don’t want to hike, it’s the place to go for picture perfect viewpoints. The Needles require more hiking but also includes an interesting historic element. If you want to visit the other units, you’ll need more time and effort, as well as a 4×4 vehicle.
Before getting into some of the trails and highlights of the park, here’s some essential information to help you plan your trip. Check the official website for more info:
Entrance Fees to Canyonlands National Park
The entrance fee to Canyonlands varies depending on your mode of transportation. Prices are current as of September 2025:
- For private vehicles, it’s US$30.
- For motorcycles, it’s US$25.
- For visitors entering on bicycle or on foot, it’s US$15 for adults and free for kids under 16.
- Holders of any interagency pass are covered for one vehicle or four per person fees.
Entrance fees are good for seven days. The park is open year-round.
Visitor Centers at Canyonlands National Park
Visitor centers are located at Island in the Sky and the Needles. They’re both just inside the entrance gates to each section. There are interpretive displays about the park, orientation videos, and water bottle stations.
- The Island in the Sky visitor center is open daily from late March to early December, and doesn’t provide water off-season.
- The Needles visitor center is open from spring through fall but provides water year-round.
- The Maze is served by Hans Flat Ranger Station, which offers information and maps as well as a small book store. It’s open daily year-round from 8am to 4:30pm.
Camping at Canyonlands National Park
There’s one developed campground at Island in the Sky and another at the Needles. They’re both open year-round. Prices are current as of September 2025:
- Willow Flat Campground at Island in the Sky is first-come, first-served, and has just 12 sites. It costs US$15 for the night and is open year-round. Toilets, fire rings, and picnic tables are available, but there’s no water.
- The Needles District Campground has 26 sites at US$20 per night. Loop A sites are first-come, first-served, and Loop B can be reserved in advance from mid-March through mid-November. The rest of the year, all sites are first-come, first-served. Toilets, fire rings, and picnic tables are available, and in-season there’s potable water.
If you’re looking to get into the Maze and drive into the backcountry, there are numerous primitive campgrounds.
Accommodation near Canyonlands National Park
To have easy access to the Island in the Sky district, Arches National Park, and Dead Horse Point State Park, we camped at, Moab Valley RV Resort and Campground, one of the countless campgrounds in Moab just a short drive away.
When we visited the Needles district, we stayed at the Inn at the Canyons in Monticello. It was quite luxurious after camping for several days and we really enjoyed the pool.
Activities at Canyonlands National Park
4×4 roads, stargazing, photography, biking, horseback riding, boating, and other outdoor activities are available. Check the official website for more information on these activities. Information about ranger guided programs can be found at the visitor centers and on the official website.
Safety at Canyonlands National Park
My only advice is to take plenty of water and use sunscreen. The heat can be brutal, especially at mid-day. Fill up your water bottles at the visitor center and make sure you have enough with you before hiking. Also, if you plan on driving into the backcountry, remember there’s no gas or services available.
Map of Basic Info for Canyonlands National Park
Island in the Sky District at Canyonlands National Park
The Island in the Sky district is a mesa featuring sandstone cliffs over 1,000 feet (304 meters) high. It’s the most visited area of Canyonlands National Park and the easiest to see if you’re limited on time. Along the scenic drive, you’ll find several pullouts with spectacular views.
Grand View Point Road
Grand View Point Road is the main scenic road through Island in the Sky. It runs for about 12 miles (19 kilometers) from the visitor center to Grand View Point.
Shafer Canyon Overlook
Shafer Canyon Overlook is the first stop along Grand View Point Road, just a short drive past the Island in the Sky visitor center. It gives you a closer look at Shafer Canyon. You can walk out to the edge of the mesa and stand 1,400 feet above the canyon.
At the edge you can see the Shafer Trail, which gives access to White Rim Road, as well as the mesa where Dead Horse Point State Park is located. You can also see the La Sal Mountains in the distance.
Neck Spring Trail
The Neck Spring Trail starts at the Shafer Canyon Overlook parking lot. On the west side of the road, you can see the stunning desert landscape that it travels through. The trail is 5.6 miles (9 kilometers) round-trip and of moderate difficulty with an elevation change of 418 feet (127 meters). It passes historic ranching features and two springs where cowboys watered cattle.
Shafer Trail Viewpoint
A bit further up Grand View Point Road is a pullout for the Shafer Trail Viewpoint. From there, you can get a better view of the curves on the Shafer Trail, which is a series of switchbacks that quickly descend into the canyon. Dead Horse Point State Park and the La Sal Mountains are again in the distance.
The Shafer Trail is a historic path that was likely used by Native Americans to access the Colorado River below. It’s named for John “Sog” Shafer, who started using it in 1916 to drive cattle between the mesa top and the bottom of the canyon. In the 1950s, the trail was widened to create a road for heavy trucks carrying mining equipment in search of uranium. Today, it’s possible to drive the Shafer Trail for an incredible thrill. A high-clearance 4WD vehicle with a low-range gear is highly recommended.
Lathrop Trail
After a short drive, you’ll come to the Lathrop Trail. It’s a moderate 5-mile (8 kilometer) round-trip trail through a wide grassland on the mesa top to the canyon rim. Once at the rim, you have the option to continue down into the canyon to White Rim Road. That will make it a difficult 11.8-mile (19 kilometer) round-trip hike with an elevation change of 1,721 feet (525 meters).
Mesa Arch
Next is Mesa Arch. It’s one of at least 80 arches at Canyonlands National Park and is most popular at sunrise. There’s an easy 0.6-mile (1 kilometer) loop to the viewing area, mostly on sand with stretches on a rocky hill and stone steps. There’s a chance you won’t find parking when you get there because of its popularity, no matter what time of day.
Mesa Arch was created by water that collected behind sandstone, eroding it slowly over time. It spans 27 feet (8.3 meters) across the edge of a cliff. The arch is one of the most photographed features at Canyonlands National Park.
There are spectacular views of Buck Canyon from the arch. The drop to the bottom is 500 feet. You can also spot Washer Woman, a 500-foot (150 meter) tall sandstone arch on the lefthand side in the distance, and the 600-foot (180 meter) tall Monster Tower just to the right. Airport Tower, a 700-foot (210 meter) tall butte is in the distance behind them. You’ll get views of Aztec Butte on the way back to the parking lot.
Candlestick Tower Overlook
Continuing past the junction with Upheaval Dome Road is Candlestick Tower Overlook. There are wonderful views of Candlestick Tower, a butte standing 450 feet (140 meters) high. Keep in mind parking is limited to only four or five cars.
Murphy Point and Murphy Loop Trails
Next is the parking lot for the Murphy Point Trail and the Murphy Loop Trail. The Murphy Point Trail is an easy hike on the mesa top, passing a historic corral along the way. At the end are fantastic views of Candlestick Tower, White Rim Road, and the Green River. It’s 3.4 miles (5.5 kilometers) round-trip.
The Murphy Loop Trail is a strenuous full-day hike with some amazing views along the way. It’s 10.8 miles (17.4 kilometers) round-trip with an elevation change of 1,448 feet (441 meters). Hiking counter-clockwise, it descends switchbacks and leads to White Rim Road, which it follows for about a mile. The trail then ascends through a wash where it loops back to the switchbacks.
Buck Canyon Overlook
Grand View Point Road continues with the Buck Canyon Overlook. A deep triangular shaped canyon is on view with the La Sal Mountains in the distance to the east.
If you look closely you can also see roads created by mining companies in the 1950s in search of uranium and oil. Although mining ceased shortly after, the roads have yet to be reclaimed by nature due to the fragile desert ecosystem.
White Rim Overlook / Gooseberry Trails
A short loop on the east side of the road leads to a picnic area and the parking lot for the White Rim Overlook and Gooseberry Trails. The White Rim Overlook Trail is an easy 1.8-mile (2.9 kilometer) round-trip hike to an overlook with views of the Colorado River, Monument Basin, and the La Sal Mountains.
The Gooseberry Trail is the steepest trail at the Island in the Sky district. It descends over 1,000 feet of slopes and switchbacks on sheer cliffs until it reaches White Rim Road. The strenuous trail is 4.6 miles (7.4 kilometers) round-trip with an elevation change of 1,529 feet (466 meters).
Orange Cliffs Overlook
The Orange Cliffs Overlook is the penultimate stop on Grand View Point Road. It looks towards the Orange Cliffs, which are located in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area to the west. You may be able to spot Cleopatra’s Chair, which is one of the landmarks in the Orange Cliffs skyline.
Grand View Point Overlook
Finally, at the end of the road is Grand View Point. The name says it all – there’s a grand view of the southern end of Island in the Sky. The White Rim Canyon sits 1,300 feet below the viewpoint with the Colorado River canyon behind it. In the distance to the southeast are the Abajo Mountains.
Looking more closely at the White Rim Canyon, you can see the white sandstone around the canyon rim. Inside the canyon is Monument Basin, which features several rock formations. Just above the canyon, it’s possible to spot old mining roads as well as White Rim Road.
The Grand View Point Trail starts to the right of the overlook. It leads further along the upper canyon to the edge of the Island in the Sky mesa, where more spectacular views await. You can also see Junction Butte at the end of the mesa.
Grand View Point Trail
Grand View Point Trail is one of the most popular at Canyonlands National Park. It’s an easy 1.8-mile (2.9 kilometer) round-trip hike that takes you from the Grand View Point Overlook along the edge of the canyon to the end of the Island in the Sky mesa. It’s well worth doing for the views alone. Allow at least 90 minutes to complete it.
The trail begins with views similar to those at Grand View Point Overlook. You can see the end of the mesa in the distance as well as White Rim Canyon below.
As you continue along the trail, the views begin to change. You can see the range of colors of the rock in the canyon.
There are also different perspectives of Monument Basin inside White Rim Canyon.
Eventually you’ll get a glimpse of the other side of the mesa, including Candlestick Tower in the distance.
At the end of the trail there’s a small rock formation you can climb for better views. You’ll see Junction Butte in front of the mesa and back north towards Candlestick Tower.
On the other side, there’s another magnificent view of White Rim Canyon and Monument Basin.
Looking towards the Maze district, you can spot Ekker Butte and Elaterite Butte. Ekker Butte, located in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, is 1,400 feet (430 meters) high and is named for a pioneer ranching family. Elaterite Butte is about the same height.
Upheaval Dome Road
The turn to Upheaval Dome Road is about six miles down Grand View Point Road from the Island in the Sky visitor center. It’s 4.8 miles (7.7 kilometers) long and leads to a few great viewpoints and trails.
Green River Overlook
The first attraction is a road on the left that leads to the spectacular Green River Overlook and Willow Flats campground. From the overlook, you can see the canyon formed by the Green River.
I’ll never get tired of the views at Green River Overlook. This viewpoint is one of the most spectacular scenes at Canyonlands National Park.
One of the most visible features is the white sandstone that lines the rim of the lower canyons. Look closely and you can see White Rim Road, which is only accessible via 4×4 or mountain bike. The 100-mile long road takes visitors to less accessible areas of Island in the Sky.
Near the river is a rock formation called Turks Head. Explorer John Wesley Powell (1834-1902) named it in 1869 because it resembles a turban. In the distance, you can see large buttes and mountains.
About 15 miles to the southwest is the Land of Standing Rocks, which includes large spires and rock formations in the Maze. If you look to the left, you can see the upper canyons and Murphy Point.
After seeing the views at Green River Overlook, I would have been happy to spend the rest of the day there. It was unlike anything I had ever seen before.
Aztec Butte Trail
Back to Upheaval Dome Road, the next stop on the right is Aztec Butte Trail. A moderate 1.4-mile (2.3 kilometer) round-trip trail leads to the top of Aztec Butte. A spur trail takes you to the top of a smaller butte with two small Ancestral Puebloan granaries. Both trails require some scrambling.
Wilhite Trail
The next stop is the Wilhite Trail. It’s a difficult 11.4-mile (18.3 kilometer) round-trip hike down steep switchbacks to White Rim Road. The total elevation change is 1,693 feet (516 meters).
Holeman Spring Canyon Overlook
Further up the road on the left is the Holeman Spring Canyon Overlook, where you can get fantastic views of the canyon.
Alcove Spring Trail
The next stop is the parking lot for the Alcove Spring Trail. This difficult trail descends 1,400 feet (427 meters) into the canyon to the base of the Moses and Zeus Towers. It’s 11.2 miles (18 kilometers) round-trip with an elevation change of 1,455 feet (444 meters).
Whale Rock
Whale Rock is near the end of the road. It’s a large rock shaped like a whale. There’s a moderate 0.8-mile (1.3 kilometer) round-trip trail that climbs up the rock from the “tail” to the “blowhole”. At the top are spectacular views of the surrounding area.
Upheaval Dome Trail
Finally, at the end of the road you’ll find the Syncline and Upheaval Dome trailheads. The Upheaval Dome Trail takes you on a 0.6-mile (1 kilometer) round-trip hike to a viewpoint overlooking Upheaval Dome. Add another 0.6 miles for the second viewpoint.
For many years scientists weren’t sure what Upheaval Dome really was. One theory stated that it was formed by the impact of a meteorite, while another claimed it’s a salt dome. Tests by NASA in 2008 confirmed the meteorite theory after shocked quartz was discovered, which is only possible in a high-pressure impact or nuclear explosion.
Syncline Trail
The Syncline Trail is a difficult 8.1-mile (13 kilometer) loop. In fact, it’s the most difficult trail at Island in the Sky and where the most rescues occur. It follows the canyons around Upheaval Dome down steep switchbacks with lots of scrambling. It’s recommended to hike clockwise, which will give you a steep descent with a gradual ascent. The elevation change is 1,516 feet (462 meters).
Map of Island in the Sky
The Needles District at Canyonlands National Park
The Needles is at the southeast corner of Canyonlands National Park. It’s named for the colorful sandstone spires that dot the landscape. There are several hiking trails and 4WD roads
Needles Park Road
UT 211 is an Utah state highway that leads to the Needles district and ends there as well. Once at the park boundaries, it’s simply known as Needles Park Road. It’s the only paved road through this section of the park, running for about 6 ½ miles (10.5 kilometers) past the visitor center. There are a few overlooks and trailheads along the road.
Roadside Ruin
The first stop after the Needles visitor center is Roadside Ruin. A 0.3-mile (0.5 kilometer) loop leads to an Ancestral Puebloan granary. It was built sometime between 1270 and 1295.
Wooden Shoe Arch Overlook
Next is the Wooden Shoe Arch Overlook. From there, you can spot an arch in the distance shaped like a Dutch wooden shoe.
Unmarked Pullout
After a couple turns in the road, we stopped at an unmarked pullout to snap a few photos of some interesting rock formations.
Pothole Point Trail
Pothole Point Trail is the next stop along Needles Park Road. It’s an easy 0.6-mile (1 kilometer) trail that takes hikers past “potholes”. After heavy rains, water collects in these natural pools allowing invertebrates to hatch from eggs left inside of them. The trail follows cairns.
Unfortunately for us, all of the potholes were completely dry during our visit. I’m sure it’s an amazing sight when you can actually see all the little creatures swimming around. The only interesting life forms we saw was a collection of cacti.
Even if the potholes are empty, however, there are some phenomenal views of the park. In the distance, you can see the spires that give the Needles district its name.
You can also spot features of Island in the Sky to the north. Junction Butte and the end of the Grand View Point Trail are clearly visible.
Slickrock Foot Trail
Continuing along is the Slickrock Foot Trail. It’s a moderately difficult trail that takes you along the top of a slickrock sandstone ridge.
The trail is a 2.4-mile (3.9 kilometer) loop marked by cairns, and as the name suggests, the slickrock can be slippery even in dry conditions. There’s no shade so protection and plenty of water is a must.
The trail provides views of the Island in the Sky district, Little Spring Canyon, Big Spring Canyon, and the Needles. There are four designated viewpoints along the trail. I’ll let you enjoy the rest of the scenery:
Big Spring Canyon Overlook and Trailhead
The Big Spring Canyon Overlook is at the end of the road. From there, you can see spires and sandstone benches in the canyon. The spring allows trees and plants to bloom during the spring and summer months.
You can see parts of the canyon from the parking area. If you take the trail along the rim, expect rocky and uneven surfaces.
Confluence Overlook Trail
If you’re up for a difficult hike, you can take the Confluence Overlook Trail from Big Spring Canyon. It’s 11 miles (17.7 kilometers) round-tripto an overlook 1,000 feet above the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers. At that point in 1859, the Macomb Expedition mapped the confluence for the very first time.
Cave Spring Trail
Cave Spring Trail was one of my favorites at Canyonlands National park. It’s a relatively easy 0.6-mile (1 kilometer) loop to a cowboy camp and pictographs. To get there, you have to drive down Wooden Shoe Loop and turn on Cave Spring Road. The trail runs in a clockwise direction.
Shortly after starting, there’s an old wooden fence and what’s left of the cowboy camp. Cowboys would move cattle through the area and shelter in the small alcove when they passed through.
Ranching took place starting in the 1890s, well before the area became a national park in 1964. It was discontinued by park authorities in 1975.
Just past the camp is another alcove containing Cave Spring. It provided water to Native Americans for several centuries, and later to the cowboys. There are a few pictographs on the walls above the spring.
From the spring, the trail continues under the shade until you reach two ladders. Climbing the ladders takes you up to the top of a rock where there are spectacular views of the landscape.
While I enjoyed the human element of the trail, the 360° views at the top stole the show. I was even able to see some of the Needles in the distance.
Cairns at the top of the rock lead you along the trail where you can look down on some of the alcoves below. After heading down from the rock, I walked under the shade again until I came back to the trailhead.