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The Imperial Harem (Harem-i Hümayûn) at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey, was the location of the private apartments of the Ottoman sultans. It also housed the Queen Mother (Valide Sultan), his children, concubines, wives, and their servants.

Added to the palace in the late 16th century, there are over 400 rooms in the Harem but only a handful are open to the public. Many rooms were designed by Mimar Sinan (1490-1588). Other sections of the Harem never before seen by the public will open to visitors in the future.

 

Visiting the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace

Foreigners can visit the Imperial Harem on a combination ticket to the palace, Harem, and Hagia Eirine for 1,500₺, or free with a Museum Pass Istanbul (as of March 2024).

The hours for the Harem are the same as the rest of the palace, daily except Tuesdays. The tourist entrance is in the 2nd Courtyard of Topkapi Palace next to the Tower of Justice. The exit opens to the 3rd Courtyard.

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Entrance to the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace

Self-guided tours start at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses. The path leads down a stairway. It’s possible to see the rooftops and the narrow courtyard of the dormitories while walking down.

Entrance at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Entrance
Stairs down to the courtyard of the Dormitory of the Halberdiers with Tresses
Stairs down to the courtyard
Rooftops at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Rooftops

 

Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses

The Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses (Zülüflü Baltacılar Koğuşu) is the first section visited in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace. Halberdiers (baltacılar) were soldiers and servants responsible for carrying wood to the palace, cleaning and serving in the Harem, moving the Sultan’s throne, and carrying the coffins of the Sultan and his family during funerals. They wore two long tresses that hung down under their headdresses to prevent them from viewing their surroundings while on duty.

Halberdier mannequin in the Dormitory of the Halberdiers with Tresses
Halberdier

The halberdiers, which numbered between 120 and 200, were first mentioned around 1527 when they were enlisted to clear roads ahead of the army for a military campaign. The dormitory was founded in the 15th century and took its current shape under Süleyman the Magnificent.

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Courtyard

At the bottom of the stairs, you’ll enter the courtyard. It’s surrounded by a barracks, mosque, hamam, and smoking room. Unlike the rest of the palace, this section is made entirely of wood and painted red and green.

Courtyard at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Courtyard
Fountain in the courtyard at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses
Fountain
Fountain in the Dormitory of the Halberdiers with Tresses
Fountain

 

Barracks

On the left side are the barracks. The wall under the portico is decorated with beautiful late 16th and early 17th century Iznık tiles. Most of the inscriptions are records of endowments to the halberdiers corps, while another details repairs carried out by Davud Ağa (d. 1599) in 1587, during the reign of Murad III. The tughra (signature) of Murad III is next to the door.

Barracks at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Barracks
Inscriptions in the Dormitory of the Halberdiers with Tresses in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Inscriptions
Inscription regarding an endowment dated 1846 in the Dormitory of the Halberdiers with Tresses
Inscription regarding an endowment dated 1846

Inside are two levels with a heating lamp hanging from the center. Veteran halberdiers would get to sleep on the upper level in order to get more heat, especially in winter. The walls are decorated Iznık tiles and there’s a fireplace at one end.

Barracks at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Barracks
Iznik tiles in the barracks at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Iznik tiles
Fireplace in the barracks at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Fireplace
Ceiling of the barracks at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses
Ceiling

 

Halberdiers’ Mosque

Across from the barracks is the two-story Halberdiers’ Mosque (Baltacılar Cami). The façade is covered in plaster imitating the pattern of a stone and brick wall. Inscriptions around the entrance detail donations to the mosque, while “There is no god but God” is inscribed above the door. Also on the façade is a painting of a mosque, likely added during repairs in the 18th century. The mihrab is decorated with 16th century Iznik tiles.

Halberdiers' Mosque at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Halberdiers’ Mosque
Painting of a mosque on the Halberdiers' Mosque
Painting of a mosque

During all of my visits, the mosque has been closed to visitors. I was only able to peek in and see the stairs and part of the lower level.

Stairs in the mosque at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Stairs

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Hamam

At the end of the courtyard past the mosque is the hamam, which has two sections. The first section is a domed changing area with niches. The second section is the bathing area with fountains, basins, and niches.

Hamam changing area at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Changing area
Dome above the hamam changing area at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses
Dome above the changing area
Hamam at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Hamam
Hamam at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses
Hamam
Dome of the hamam at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses
Dome of the hamam

Between the entrance to the hamam and the mosque, a section has been cut away for visitors to see the furnace used to heat the hamam.

Furnace for the hamam at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Furnace

 

Pipe Room

Finally, across from the hamam is the Pipe Room. Outside, there are a few cupboards and a coffee kitchen. A mannequin is shown making Turkish coffee.

Cupboards at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Cupboards
Halberdier making Turkish coffee at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Halberdier making Turkish coffee

The Pipe Room demonstrates the importance of tobacco in the palace, which grew in popularity during the 17th century, and the strict protocol around smoking. The Chief Tobacco Attendant (Tütüncübaşı) provided pipes and water-pipes for the palace while the 10 Imperial Pipe Attendants (hassa cubukçusu) prepared and cleaned the pipes, ensured the coals wouldn’t burn the floor, cleaned the ashtrays (takatuka), and prepared tobacco blends. They were supervised by the Chief Pipe Attendant (Çubukçubaşı) who prepared and served the pipe bowls. The Pipe Lighter (ateşçi) would carry the embers. Smokers would hold the pipes with their left hands and use their right hands to drink coffee or sherbet, or to count prayer beads.

Pipe Room at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Pipe Room
Ceiling of the Pipe Room at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses
Ceiling

The inscriptions on the wall of the Pipe Room detail donations made to the halberdiers corps as well as repairs carried out. They all date to the early 19th century.

Inscriptions in the Pipe Room at the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses
Inscriptions

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Horse Ramp

When the Sultan wanted to leave the Imperial Harem in disguise, he used the Horse Ramp (At Rampası). It dates to the second half of the 15th century during the reign of Mehmed the Conqueror, who would use it to access the Tiled Kiosk (Çinili Köşk).

Horse Ramp in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Horse Ramp

To leave the palace and mingle with his subjects, the Sultan would dress as a dervish or a merchant, leave through the Gate of the Shawl (Şal Kapısı), and ride down to the city. According to palace records, the sultans who used the ramp most frequently for this purpose were Murad IV, Ibrahim, Mustafa III, and Mahmud II. Security measures were extremely strict.

Looking down the Horse Ramp
Looking down the Horse Ramp

The Horse Ramp, also known as the Great Embarkation (Büyük Biniş), opened to the public for the first time on September 18, 2020. It’s accessed after visiting the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses.

Lower part of the Horse Ramp
Lower part of the Horse Ramp
End of the Horse Ramp
End of the Horse Ramp

 

Gate of the Shawl

At the lower end of the Horse Ramp is the Gate of the Shawl (Şal Kapısı). Visitors pass through the gate from the Dormitories of the Halberdiers with Tresses to access the Horse Ramp.

Gate of the Shawl at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Gate of the Shawl
Gate of the Shawl in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Gate of the Shawl
Room inside the Gate of the Shawl
Room inside the Gate of the Shawl

 

Court of the Head Slave of the Door

Directly opposite the upper door of the Gate of the Shawl is the Court of the Head Slave of the Door (Baş Kapı Gulamı Dairesi). The Head Slave of the Door was a slave soldier who oversaw the comings and goings of the Sultan.

Court of the Head Slave of the Door in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Court of the Head Slave of the Door
Court of the Head Slave of the Door
Court of the Head Slave of the Door

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Music School

Built directly above the Court of the Head Slave of the Door is the Music School (Meşkhane). It was built during the reign of Süleyman the Magnificent. Pupils received their education from musicians living outside the palace. The school was open all day and only closed at night.

Music School in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Music School
Door to the Music School
Door
Music School in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Music School
Music School
Music School

Inside the Music School, you’ll find photos detailing the restoration of the building as well as a panel with original decorations.

Photos of the restoration of the Music School
Photos of the restoration
Original decorations in the Music School
Original decorations

 

Hamam of the Eunuchs

Next door to the Music School is the Hamam of the Eunuchs (Haremağaları Hamamı). It also dates back to the reign of Süleyman the Magnificent. The Hamam of the Eunuchs was used by the palace eunuchs. It contained a dressing room as well as the bath area and a toilet.

Entrance to the Hamam of the Eunuchs
Entrance to the Hamam of the Eunuchs
Dressing room in the Hamam of the Eunuchs
Dressing room
Hamam of the Eunuchs
Hamam of the Eunuchs
Hamam of the Eunuchs
Hamam of the Eunuchs
Toilet in the Hamam of the Eunuchs
Toilet

 

Curtain Gate

At the top of the Horse Ramp is the Curtain Gate (Perde Kapısı). It opens to the Hall of the Ablutions Fountain, which leads to the Black Eunuchs’ Ward.

Outside of the Curtain Gate in the Imperial Harem at Topkapı Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Outside of the Curtain Gate
Inside of the Curtain Gate
Inside of the Curtain Gate
Door of Curtain Gate
Door

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Black Eunuchs’ Ward

The Black Eunuchs’ Ward (Karaağalar Koğuşu) is the section of the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace that housed the black eunuchs (karaağalar). They were mostly Abyssinians from central Africa and oversaw security for the Harem. Their main duties were “standing guard at the gates of the Harem, controlling the exits and entrances, escorting imperial coaches, and keeping the non-members of the Harem out of the Palace”. The black eunuchs were led by the Chief Black Eunuch (Kızlar Ağası).

 

Hall of the Ablutions Fountain

After walking up the Horse Ramp and passing through the Curtain Gate, the first room visitors will see in the Black Eunuchs’ Ward is the Hall of the Ablutions Fountain (Şadırvanlı Sofa). The hall served as an entrance to the Harem. The mounting block allowed the Sultan to mount his horse while the benches were for the guards.

Hall of the Ablutions Fountain in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Hall of the Ablutions Fountain
Hall of the Ablutions Fountain in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Hall of the Ablutions Fountain
Mounting block in the Hall of the Ablutions Fountain in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Mounting block

The hall was redecorated after a fire swept through the Harem on July 24, 1665. It’s beautifully adorned with 17th century Kütahya and Iznik tiles. The fountain that gives the hall its name was moved to the Privy Chamber of Murad III. The door to the Tower of Justice is also located in the hall.

Door to the Tower of Justice in the Hall of the Ablutions Fountain
Door to the Tower of Justice
Door to the Tower of Justice in the Hall of the Ablutions Fountain
Door to the Tower of Justice
Gate to the Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs in the Hall of the Ablutions Fountain
Gate to the Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs

 

Mosque of the Black Eunuchs

The Mosque of the Black Eunuchs (Karaağalar Mescidi) is attached to the Hall of the Ablutions Fountain. The entrance to the mosque is between the Curtain Gate and the horse block. Like the hall, this small mosque was rebuilt after the fire in 1665 and is decorated with 17th century Kütahya and Iznik tiles.

Mosque of the Black Eunuchs in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Mosque of the Black Eunuchs

There are three tile panels to look out for. All were likely made by the Imperial Halberdier Ali Iskenderiye in 1666-67. First, the tiles in the mihrab offer a detailed depiction of the Holy Mosque in Mecca with the Kaaba in the center. The entire panel contains over 60 tiles.

Tile panel in the mihrab depicting the Holy Mosque in Mecca in the Mosque of the Black Eunuchs in the Hall of the Ablutions Fountain in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Tile panel in the mihrab depicting the Holy Mosque in Mecca

On the left side of the mosque is a tile panel depicting the Mosque of the Prophet in Medina where the Green Dome, the tomb of Muhammad, is located.

Tile panel depicting the Mosque of the Prophet in Medina in the Mosque of the Black Eunuchs
Tile panel depicting the Mosque of the Prophet in Medina

Finally, on the right side is a tile panel depicting Mount Arafat, a Muslim holy site near Mecca. Red roses symbolize the Prophet Muhammad at the two corners of the mountain, where he gave his Farewell Sermon on March 6, 632, a short time before his death.

Tile panel depicting Mount Arafat in the Mosque of the Black Eunuchs
Tile panel depicting Mount Arafat

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Domed Chamber with Cupboards

On one side of the Hall of the Ablutions Fountain is the Domed Chamber with Cupboards (Dolaplı Kubbe). It was built in 1587 by Murad III for keeping the deeds of trust, financial records for the Sultan and Imperial Family, and money from charitable foundations of the Harem and holy sites in Mecca and Medina and annual revenues from the Hejaz. It was administered by the Chief Black Eunuch. The Domed Chamber with Cupboards functioned as the tourist entrance to the Harem before the Horse Ramp opened to the public.

Domed Chamber with Cupboards in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Domed Chamber with Cupboards
Cupboards in the Domed Chamber with Cupboards
Cupboards
Door the the Hall of the Ablutions Fountain in the Domed Chamber with Cupboards
Door the the Hall of the Ablutions Fountain

 

Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs

The other side of the Hall of the Ablutions Fountain opens to the Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs (Karaağalar Taşlığı). It was built in the middle of the 16th century and renovated after the fire of 1665.

Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs
Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs
Gate to the Hall of the Ablutions Fountain in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Gate to the Hall of the Ablutions Fountain
Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs

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Dormitory of the Black Eunuchs

Behind the portico is the Dormitory of the Black Eunuchs (Karaağalar Koğuşu). This three-story building was the largest dormitory in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace. It consists of long corridors on each floor with rooms on either side. The portico was added in 1660 and the third floor was built in the 18th century.

Dormitory of the Black Eunuchs in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Dormitory of the Black Eunuchs

The inscriptions under the portico includes the deeds of trust established for the eunuchs in the 19th century under Sultans Mustafa IV, Mahmud II, and Abdülmecid I.

Under the portico of the Dormitory of the Black Eunuchs in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Under the portico
Under the portico of the Dormitory of the Black Eunuchs in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Under the portico
Inscription on the Dormitory of the Black Eunuchs in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Inscription
Door to the Dormitory of the Black Eunuchs
Door

 

Apartment of the Chief Black Eunuch

Just past the dormitory is the Apartment of the Chief Black Eunuch (Dârüssaâde Ağası Dairesi). It was built near the end of the 16th century but didn’t take its final form until the 18th century under Dârüssaâde Beşir Ağa (d. 1746). The entire apartment is decorated with tiles and fine trim work.

Apartment of the Black Eunuch
Apartment of the Black Eunuch

The Chief Black Eunuch was the fourth highest ranking official in the Ottoman Empire after the Sultan, the Grand Vizier, and the Sheikh al-Islam. He was responsible for supervising the imperial charitable foundations and endowments for the holy cities of Mecca and Medina. He was also tasked with the education of Ottoman princes until they reached puberty.

Chief Black Eunuch
Chief Black Eunuch

Chief Black Eunuchs often donated their salaries to various charitable causes and were involved in building mosques, schools, and fountains. They held heavy political influence, especially in the 17th and 18th centuries. At the end of their posts, the Chief Black Eunuchs were dismissed and exiled to Egypt or the Hejaz.

 

School of Princes

The second floor of the apartment contains the School of Princes (Şehzadeler Mektebi). It was established in the 17th century to educate Ottoman princes until they reached puberty. They would learn the Quran as well as how to read and write.

Apartment of the Black Eunuch (lower level) and School of Princes (upper level) in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Apartment of the Black Eunuch (lower level) and School of Princes (upper level)

 

Apartments of the Gentlemen-in-Waiting

The opposite side of the Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs are the Apartments of the Gentlemen-in-Waiting of the Sultan (Musahipler Dairesi). The gentlemen-in-waiting were usually hand-picked by the Sultan and were considered his confidants. They were generally well-educated men skilled in conversation and making sharp witty remarks. The treasurer and other high-ranking eunuchs in charge of financial affairs also lived in the apartments.

Apartments of the Gentlemen-in-Waiting in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Apartments of the Gentlemen-in-Waiting
Apartments of the Gentlemen-in-Waiting
Apartments of the Gentlemen-in-Waiting

The building consists of a three-story cut stone structure. The entire façade was covered in tiles until the 19th century, when it was coated in plaster. Only a small part is still tiled.

Partially tiled section of the Apartments of the Gentlemen-in-Waiting
Partially tiled section

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Main Gate to the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace

The Main Gate (Cümle Kapısı) is at the far end of the Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs. It was the official entrance to the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace. Above the door is an inscription of Surah Al-Ahzab 33:53 of the Quran: “O believers, do not enter the houses of the Prophet without permission”.

Main Gate in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Main Gate

 

Sentry Post

The Sentry Post (Nöbet Yeri) connects to the three most exclusive sections of the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace. The door to the left leads to the Concubines’ Ward, the middle door leads to the Courtyard of the Queen Mother, and the door to the right leads to the Courtyard of the Favorites and the Sultan’s Private Apartments. The tourist path continues through the door to the left.

Door to the Sentry Post
Door to the Sentry Post
Inscription above the door to the Sentry Post
Inscription above the door
Sentry Post
Sentry Post
Sentry Post at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Sentry Post
Door to the Concubines' Ward in the Sentry Post
Door to the Concubines’ Ward

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Concubines’ Ward

The Concubines’ Ward (Cariyeler Koğuşu) housed the Sultan’s consorts and concubines in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace.

 

Role of Concubines

Concubines were brought into the Harem as slaves, usually at a young age. Most were Christian girls from various countries and ethnic groups. They were given new names, forced to convert to Islam, and were given an education in court manners and the Turkish language. There were sometimes between 400 and 500 concubines living in the palace at one time.

There were two groups of concubines: those who directly served the Sultan, and those who served the other members and officials of the Harem. The hierarchy regarding status and roles was very strict.

A concubine who didn’t directly serve the Sultan (cariye) could rise in rank to become a paid stewardess (kalfa). After nine years of service, these concubines were given their freedom and a marriage was arranged for them.

Concubines that slept with the Sultan became members of the dynasty and rose in status. A lucky concubine could work her way up to being a consort (kadın), of which there were up to four. Consorts had borne the Sultan a child and were second in status only to the Queen Mother (Valide Sultan). Next were an unspecified number of fortunates (ikbal), who had slept with the Sultan at least once, followed by favorites (gözdeler), who had simply caught the eye of the Sultan.

In the 16th and 17th centuries, the chief consort would receive the title Haseki Sultan. They often had influence on foreign and domestic policy and access to great economic resources. The first Haseki Sultan was Hürrem Sultan (1502-1558), or Roxelana, when she married Süleyman the Magnificent in 1533. The title was abolished in 1695.

 

Corridor of the Concubines

The entrance to the Concubines’ Ward is through the Corridor of the Concubines (Cariyeler Koridoru). On the left side of the corridor is a long counter on which the black eunuchs would place meals for the concubines. Before leaving, they would beat a drum to announce that the meals were ready. The concubines on duty would then enter the corridor and distribute the meals to members of the Harem in a hierarchy. After meals were eaten, the concubines would take the plates back to the corridor.

Corridor of the Concubines at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Corridor of the Concubines

 

Courtyard of the Sultan’s Consorts and Concubines

The corridor leads to the Courtyard of the Sultan’s Consorts and Concubines (Kadınefendiler ve Cariyeler Taşlığı). This is the smallest courtyard of the Harem and was built around 1585 under Sultan Murad III. The Sultan’s consorts lived in the apartments surrounding the courtyard. Each consort had three rooms with two stories, a fireplace, and tiled walls. The lower level was used as dormitories for servant concubines.

Courtyard of the Sultan's Consorts and Concubines in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Courtyard of the Sultan’s Consorts and Concubines

The courtyard is also surrounded by the Concubines’ Hamam (Cariye Hamamı), a laundry, and the Apartments of the Stewardesses (Kalfalar Dairesi). The stairway on the right side of the courtyard leads to the Harem Hospital (Harem Hastanesi), which is expected to open to the public in the future. Pay attention to the frescoes of landscapes adorning the back wall. They date back to the late 18th century.

Frescoes in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Frescoes
Fresco in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Fresco
Fresco in the Concubine's Quarters
Fresco

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Apartments of the Queen Mother

The Courtyard of the Sultan’s Consorts and Concubines connects to the Apartments of the Queen Mother (Valide Sultan Dairesi). It’s one of the largest sections of the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace. The Queen Mother (Valide Sultan) was the highest authority in charge of the Harem, and many had quite an important influence over the Sultan. However, if her son died or was dethroned, she lost her influence and grip on power.

Apartments of the Queen Mother in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Apartments of the Queen Mother

40 rooms make up the Apartments of the Queen Mother. Most were constructed in the 1580s by Mimar Sinan (c. 1490-1588) and Davud Ağa (d. 1598). Before that, the Queen Mother lived her entire life at the Old Palace (Eski Saray) in what is now Beyazıt Square. Of these 40 rooms, only 2 are open to the public. They consist of a dining room with a reception room in the upper gallery, and her bedroom with a small prayer niche.

Dining room in the Apartments of the Queen Mother in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Dining room
Dining room in the Apartments of the Queen Mother
Dining room

The Apartments of the Queen Mother were destroyed after a fire swept through the Imperial Harem on July 24, 1665. They were rebuilt between 1666 and 1668. Some smaller rooms were added later in the 18th century.

Dome of the Apartments of the Queen Mother in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Dome
Chandelier in the Apartments of the Queen Mother
Chandelier

The current look of the Apartments of the Queen Mother dates back to 1789, when Selim III had the rooms renovated in a Rococo style and added a second story. It’s possible to see 17th century Iznik tiles as well as cabinets with inlaid mother-of-pearl along the walls. 18th and 19th century Western European-style landscape frescoes adorn the upper walls.

Cabinets in the Apartments of the Queen Mother
Cabinets
Frescoes in the Apartments of the Queen Mother in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Frescoes
Fireplace in the Apartments of the Queen Mother in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Fireplace
Fountain in the Apartments of the Queen Mother
Fountain

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Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother

The Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother (Hünkâr ve Vâlide Sultan Hamamları) separated the women’s quarters from the Sultan’s Private Apartments.

Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother
Bath of the Sultan

The baths are a double bath constructed in 1580 by Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan (1490-1588). They were renovated in the middle of the 18th century.

Bath of the Sultan
Bath of the Sultan

The baths were once decorated with Iznik tiles that were removed in 1609 by Sultan Ahmed I for use in the Blue Mosque. The walls are now whitewashed or covered in marble, while the floor is made of white and gray marble. The only walls containing tiles today are the corridors.

Tiled corridor in the Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Tiled corridor
Tiles in the corridor of the Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother
Tiles

Each room in the baths either has a dome or honeycomb glass to let in natural sunlight. The baths are heated from the bottom up like a Roman bath and contain a caldarium, tepidarium, and frigidarium. Toilets were also placed in the baths.

A room with a honeycomb glass ceiling in the Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother
A room with a honeycomb glass ceiling
Toilet in the Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Toilet

The culture of bathing, fountains, and cleanliness was very important in the Ottoman Empire. Water had to be flowing and not standing still as in a pool, so fountains were placed everywhere in the baths.

Fountains in the Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Fountains
Fountain in the Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother
Fountain

There are several rooms in the baths, but the Queen Mother’s bath is smaller than the Sultan’s bath. The Queen Mother’s bath was used on different days by women of the Harem from different classes, such as consorts, servants, and concubines.

Painted door in the Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother
Painted door

Finally, as the Sultan and Queen Mother would be at their most vulnerable while bathing, additional security measures were installed. Golden latticework screens protected them from assassination attempts as they bathed.

Golden latticework screen in the Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Golden latticework screen

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Imperial Hall

The Imperial Hall (Hünkâr Sofası) is one of the most impressive rooms in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace. It was built after 1585 by Davud Ağa (d. 1598) during the reign of Murad III. After a fire swept through the Imperial Harem in 1666, the hall was renovated in the Rococo style under Osman III.

Imperial Hall in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Imperial Hall

There are several doors opening to the Imperial Hall. Doors on one side lead to the Apartments of the Queen Mother and the Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother. On the opposite side are two doors leading to the Sultan’s Private Apartments. There was also a secret door behind a mirror allowing the Sultan safe passage in case of an attack.

Door in the Imperial Hall in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Door

 

Uses of the Imperial Hall

Also known as the Throne Room or the Hall of Diversions, the Imperial Hall served as an official reception and ceremonial hall. The Sultan would use it receive guests such as his confidants, consorts, mother, and children. It was also used for wedding and religious ceremonies as well as the entertainment of the Sultan and residents of the Harem.

Imperial Hall in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Imperial Hall

The Sultan’s throne sits near the center of the room while the gallery is off to the side. The Sultan’s consorts would sit with the Queen Mother (Valide Sultan) in the lower floor of the gallery while musician concubines would sit on the upper floor.

Throne in the Imperial Hall in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Throne
Gallery in the Imperial Hall
Gallery
Gallery in the Imperial Hall in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Gallery

 

Dome of the Imperial Hall

The dome above the hall is the largest in the palace and has a gorgeous chandelier hanging from the center. The paintings under the dome and arches date back to the original construction. The pictures below depict the dome before and after restoration.

Unrestored dome of the Imperial Hall in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Unrestored dome
Dome after restoration in the Imperial Hall in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Dome after restoration
Dome after restoration in the Imperial Hall in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Dome after restoration

 

Decorations in the Imperial Hall

The entire room is richly decorated with impressive craftsmanship and luxury items. One item of particular interest is a clock that has been on display during some of my visits. It was a gift from Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom and Great Britain in the 19th century. Also, the tile belt with calligraphic inscriptions was reinstalled in the 18th century using Delftware and Venetian glass.

Chandelier in the Imperial Hall in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Chandelier
Clock in the Imperial Hall in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Clock
A clock given by Queen Victoria in the Imperial Hall
A clock given by Queen Victoria
Fountain in the Imperial Hall in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Fountain

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Sultan’s Private Apartments

The Sultan’s Private Apartments served as the living quarters of the Ottoman sultans. The apartments are accessed via a vestibule connected to the Imperial Hall. Its walls are decorated with Iznik tiles and it’s colorfully painted all the way up to the dome.

Vestibule
Vestibule
Tiles in the vestibule
Tiles
Dome of the vestibule in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Dome of the vestibule

 

Privy Chamber of Murad III

Through the door on the left side of the vestibule is the Privy Chamber of Murad III (III. Murad Has Odası). It was built in 1579 by Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan (1490-1588) for Sultan Murad III. It’s the oldest and best preserved room in the Harem, retaining its original appearance. The room was used as the private quarters and a reception hall for several subsequent Ottoman sultans.

Privy Chamber of Murad III in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Privy Chamber of Murad III
Privy Chamber of Murad III
Privy Chamber of Murad III

The room is decorated with blue, white, and red Iznik tiles. The tiles depict floral designs and also make up a band around the room with an inscription from the Quran. The ceiling is painted with geometric designs.

Tiled inscription in the Privy Chamber of Murad III in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Tiled inscription
Geometric designs in the Privy Chamber of Murad III in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Geometric designs

The Privy Chamber of Murad III features a large dome that’s only second in size to the dome of the Imperial Hall. It has been repainted several times over the years.

Dome of the Privy Chamber of Murad III in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Dome

The fountain in the room was originally installed in the Hall of the Ablutions Fountain. The two-tiered fountain is decorated with colored marble. The flow of water from the fountain was meant to provide a relaxing atmosphere to the room as well as prevent eavesdropping.

Fountain in the Privy Chamber of Murad III in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Fountain
Fountain of the Privy Chamber of Murad III
Fountain

Opposite the fountain are two gilded baldachin beds dating back to the 18th century. A large fireplace with a gilded cloak sits between them.

Gilded baldachin beds in the Privy Chamber of Murad III
Gilded baldachin beds
Gilded baldachin bed in the Privy Chamber of Murad III
Gilded baldachin bed

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Privy Chamber of Ahmed I

Next is the Privy Chamber of Ahmed I (I. Ahmed Has Odası). It was built in 1608 for Sultan Ahmed I. The room is decorated with mostly green Iznik tiles. It features cabinets and window shutters inlaid with mother-of-pearl, tortoiseshell, and ivory.

Privy Chamber of Ahmed I in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Privy Chamber of Ahmed I
Privy Chamber of Ahmed I in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Privy Chamber of Ahmed I
Tiles in the Privy Chamber of Ahmed I in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Tiles
Tiles in the Privy Chamber of Ahmed I in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Tiles
Cabinet in the Privy Chamber of Ahmed I
Cabinet

 

Privy Chamber of Ahmed III

A small but colorful room attached to the Privy Chamber of Ahmed I is decorated from floor to ceiling with floral patterns and fruit painted on wooden panels. This is the Privy Chamber of Ahmed III (III. Ahmed Has Odası), also known as the Fruit Room (Yemiş Odası). It was built in 1705 for Sultan Ahmed III and was probably used as a dining room by many sultans.

Privy Chamber of Ahmed III in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Privy Chamber of Ahmed III

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Twin Kiosk

The Twin Kiosk (Çifte Kasırlar) housed the Crown Prince (Şehzade). In the early years of the Ottoman Empire, once the Crown Prince (Şehzade) reached adulthood, he was sent to an Anatolian province to become a governor and train in administration and state affairs. From the beginning of the 17th century, however, princes lived in seclusion in the Harem. He was under a form of house-arrest in the Twin Kiosk and was under constant surveillance by palace guards. This earned the kiosk the nickname kafes (cage).

Twin Kiosk in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Twin Kiosk

The Twin Kiosk, which was also known as the Apartments of the Crown Prince (Veliahd Dairesi), is attached to the Sultan’s Private Apartments via a vestibule. It consists of two privy chambers built at different times in the 17th century. The Twin Kiosk was built on an elevated platform to give a better view from the inside and to shield views from the outside. It’s best seen from the Courtyard of the Favorites.

Twin Kiosk in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Twin Kiosk
Eaves of the Twin Kiosk
Eaves

Both rooms in the Twin Kiosk have carpeted floors and sofas along the walls for seating. One room has a domed roof while the other has a flat wooden ceiling. The paint inside the dome is original.

Room with the flat roof in the Twin Kiosk in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Room with the flat roof
Flat wooden ceiling in the Twin Kiosk in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Flat wooden ceiling
Domed room of the Twin Kiosk in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Domed room
Dome of the Twin Kiosk in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Dome

The rooms are richly decorated with replicas of the original 17th century Iznik tiles, geometric patterns, and inscriptions from the Quran. They also feature beautiful stained glass windows.

Tiles in the Twin Kiosk
Tiles
Windows in the Twin Kiosk
Windows
Stained glass window in the Twin Kiosk in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Stained glass window
An elaborate stained glass window in the Twin Kiosk in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
An elaborate stained glass window

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Courtyard of the Favorites

The Courtyard of the Favorites (Gözdeler Taşlığı) is one of the last sections of the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace.

Courtyard of the Favorites
Courtyard of the Favorites
Courtyard of the Favorites
Courtyard of the Favorites

The Courtyard of the Favorites contains the Apartment of the Favorites and the Twin Kiosk. It also overlooks a large pool and the Boxwood Garden (Şimşirlik Bahçesi), and has excellent views of Galata and the Galata Tower.

Pool
Pool
View of Galata from the Courtyard of the Favorites
View of Galata

 

Apartments of the Favorites

The Apartments of the Favorites (Gözdeler Dairesi) were built by Sultan Osman III in 1754. The second floor was added by Abdülhamid I in the 1770s. Abdülhamid I lived on the ground floor of the building and his family occupied the rest. This was the first time that the women’s living quarters were combined with the sultan’s. Abdülhamid I’s wooden apartment was decorated in the Rococo style.

Apartments of the Favorites in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Apartments of the Favorites
Apartments of the Favorites
Apartments of the Favorites
Upper level of the Apartments of the Favorites
Upper level
Eaves of the Apartments of the Favorites
Eaves

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Golden Road

The Golden Road (Altınyol) is a narrow passage dating back to the 15th century. It leads from the Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs, past the Courtyard of the Queen Mother and the Courtyard of the Favorites, all the way to the Marble Terrace (Mermer Sofa) in the 4th Courtyard.

Golden Road in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Golden Road
Section of the Golden Road passing under the Apartments of the Favorites
Section of the Golden Road passing under the Apartments of the Favorites

The walls along the Golden Road are painted white in some parts, and are brick or tiled in others. Some people believe the name golden comes from a tradition of the sultans throwing gold coins to the concubines on feast days and celebrations, but this is disputed by many scholars.

Golden Road in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Golden Road

 

Harem Mosque

The Harem Mosque (Harem Mescidi) was built in the 17th century as a prayer room for the Queen Mother, the Sultan’s daughters, chief consort, and senior women of the Harem. The walls are covered with 18th century tiles produced at the Palace of the Porphyrogenitus when it functioned as a ceramics and pottery factory. The mosque sits along the Golden Road.

Harem Mosque in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Harem Mosque
Harem Mosque in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Harem Mosque
Mihrab of the Harem Mosque
Mihrab
Tiles in the Harem Mosque in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Tiles

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Aviary Kitchen

The Aviary Kitchen (Kuşhane Mutfağı) was built in the 15th century. It has a ground floor and mezzanine level, both accessible via the Golden Road. The Aviary Kitchen was used to serve the Sultan and members of his family on private days and evenings. The kitchen also prepared feasts at the Harem for weddings of the Sultan’s daughters, circumcision ceremonies for the princes, and other palace celebrations.

Outside the Aviary Kitchen
Outside the Aviary Kitchen

The kitchen staff were specifically chosen from the corps of Halberdiers with Tresses for their trustworthiness and talent. They would accompany the Sultan to go riding or hunting, or whenever he left the palace. The head cook was called the Chief Bird Keeper (Kuşcubaşı). The stone stove, niches, fountain, and other features on the ground floor are all original.

Ground floor of the Aviary Kitchen in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Ground floor
Ground floor of the Aviary Kitchen
Ground floor

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Courtyard of the Queen Mother

The Courtyard of the Queen Mother (Valide Sultan Taşlığı) is the largest courtyard in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace.

Courtyard of the Queen Mother in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Courtyard of the Queen Mother

The Courtyard of the Queen Mother is connected to the Golden Road via the middle door of the Sentry Post. Because it bordered so many sections of the Harem, it was the only place where all residents could meet face-to-face.

Courtyard of the Queen Mother
Courtyard of the Queen Mother

The buildings around the courtyard were built in the late 15th and early 16th centuries, and there was once an open view to the Golden Horn. When the Apartments of the Queen Mother and the Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother were built in the 16th century, the space became an inner courtyard.

Courtyard of the Queen Mother in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Courtyard of the Queen Mother

The walls of the courtyard are covered with tiles dating back to various periods. A mounting block used by the Sultan sits on the north side. The fountain on the opposite end was built in the 17th century during the reign of Mehmed IV.

Tiles in the Courtyard of the Queen Mother
Tiles
Mounting block in the Courtyard of the Queen Mother
Mounting block
Fountain in the Courtyard of the Queen Mother
Fountain

 

Hall with the Fireplace

Two rooms on the Courtyard of the Queen Mother are open to the public. The first is the Hall with the Fireplace (Ocaklı Sofa). It takes its name from the fact it features the largest fireplace in the Harem.

Hall with the Fireplace in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Hall with the Fireplace
Hall with the Fireplace in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Hall with the Fireplace
Fireplace in the Hall with the Fireplace
Fireplace

The Hall with the Fireplace was built in the early 17th century. It was renovated under Mehmed IV after a fire swept through the Harem in 1666. The room is covered by a dome and decorated with colorful tiles and engravings.

Dome in the Hall with the Fireplace
Dome
Decorations in the Hall with the Fireplace
Decorations
Fountain in the Hall with the Fireplace in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Fountain

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Hall with the Fountain

Next is the Hall with the Fountain (Çeşmeli Sofa). Princes, consorts, and concubines would use it as a waiting room before entering the Imperial Hall and the Sultan’s Private Apartments. The Hall with the Fountain contains one of the most beautiful fountains in the Harem. Before it became a waiting room, it was used as a pantry.

Hall with the Fountain in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Hall with the Fountain
Fountain in the Hall with the Fountain
Fountain
Cabinet in the Hall with the Fountain
Cabinet
Niches in the Hall with the Fountain
Niches
Tiles in the Hall with the Fountain
Tiles

 

Exiting the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace

The tourist exit opens to the 3rd Courtyard via the Aviary Gate (Kuşhane Kapısı).

Aviary Gate at the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey
Aviary Gate
Aviary Gate
Aviary Gate

 

Map of Topkapi Palace Containing the Imperial Harem

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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