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Gülhane Park (Gülhane Parkı) is one of the oldest and largest public parks in Istanbul. It’s a peaceful place that’s beautiful to visit any time of year.
Introduction to Gülhane Park
Gülhane Park was originally part of the outer garden of Topkapi Palace. It opened to the public in 1912 and once contained a small zoo and playgrounds.
Today, there are several wide paths throughout the park as well as benches for visitors to sit and enjoy the scenery. A series of fountains adds to the pleasant atmosphere. Many locals come out to the park on weekends for picnics and fresh air. In addition, the eastern edge of the park contains the Istanbul Archaeology Museums.
Edict of Gülhane
One important historic moment took place at what is now Gülhane Park. In 1839, the Edict of Gülhane was read on the grounds by Grand Vizier Mustafa Reşid Pasha (1800-1858). It launched the Tanzimat period of reforms that enhanced the civil liberties of non-Muslim subjects of the Ottoman Empire and equalized all Ottoman citizens, regardless of religion. Mustafa Reşid Pasha served under Sultan Abdülmecid I and was the principal architect of the edict.
Gates to Gülhane Park
The main gate to the park is on the south side along Alemdar Street. It’s a short walk from the Sultanahmet area. Another gate sits on the west side of the park closer to the Sirkeci area, where there are lots of souvenir shops lining the road outside the walls. There’s a T1 tram stop a few steps from the west gate.
Features of Gülhane Park
While strolling through the park, keep your eye out for several different features. There are minor historic sites as well as public art.
Alay Pavilion
Just inside the main gate to the left is the Alay Pavilion (Alay Köşkü). It was built above the outer wall of Topkapi Palace in order for the sultans to watch ceremonies and processions.
The original pavilion was built out of wood in the 16th century. The current structure dates back to the early 19th century and was built by Sultan Mahmud II. It’s accessible via a long ramp just inside the park gates.
Today, the Alay Pavilion serves as the Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar Literature Museum Library (Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar Edebiyat Müze Kütüphanesi). It opened on November 12, 2011, and is dedicated to Turkish literature.
The museum is named after Turkish writer Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar (1901-1962). It contains over 8,000 books in its collection. The museum is open weekdays from 10am to 7pm, and admission is free (as of May 2024).
Sculptures at Gülhane Park
The park contains a sculpture of a seated Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938). There are also a few other sculptures scattered around.
Column of the Goths
On the north side of the park, you can find the Column of the Goths (Gotlar Sütunu). It stands 18.5 meters high and dates back to the 3rd or 4th century. The column commemorates a Roman victory over a Goth invasion of the city and is topped by a Corinthian capital.
The column was dedicated to either Claudius II Gothicus or Constantine the Great, who both achieved victories over the Goths. It happens to be the oldest Roman monument in the city, possibly dating back to Byzantium and predating the foundation of Constantinople.
Orphanage of St. Paul
Near the Column of the Goths are the remains of the Orphanage of St. Paul. It dates back to the reign of Constantius II in the 4th century. The columns seen today are from an orphanage built by Justin II in the middle of the 6th century. It served not only orphans, but also the elderly, the blind, and war veterans.
The Orphanage of St. Paul was directed by the orphanotrophos (ὀρφανοτρόφος), which was one of the most important officers of the Byzantine Empire. The title was established in the 4th century and probably lasted until the late 14th century. Nearby is a Byzantine column capital. A tea garden was also located in the area but it’s now closed.
Museum of the History of Science and Technology in Islam
On the western edge of Gülhane Park is the Museum of the History of Science and Technology in Islam (İslam Bilim ve Teknoloji Tarihi Müzesi). It’s housed in the former stables of the park.
The museum opened on May 25, 2008, and is based on a concept by Prof. Dr. Fuat Sezgin (1924-2018). He was professor emeritus of the History of Natural Science at Johann Wolfgang Goethe University in Frankfurt, Germany, and an expert in Arabic and Islamic science.
Visiting the Museum of the History of Science and Technology in Islam
The Museum of the History of Science and Technology in Islam is open daily. Admission for foreigners is 10€ (as of July 2024), or free for holders of the Museum Pass Istanbul or Museum Pass Türkiye. Visit the official website for more info.
Collection of the Museum of the History of Science and Technology in Islam
The museum contains replicas of scientific instruments and tools invented by Islamic scholars between the 9th and 16th centuries. Very few items on display are original, and some were completely conceptual or imagined. It’s unknown if all the contraptions were built or used.
The Museum of the History of Science and Technology in Islam consists of 12 different halls. They represent astronomy, clocks, weapons, medicine, mining, physics, math and geometry, architecture and city planning, chemistry and optics, and geography.
Architectural Models
The most interesting part of the collection for me personally was the architecture section. It contains models of several different buildings, many I had visited in the past. Some models are included in other sections as well.
My Thoughts on the Museum of the History of Science and Technology in Islam
To be honest, I was a bit disappointed in the museum overall. While it was interesting to see many of the contraptions, I was expecting to see more authentic items. It’s more of a collection of models than anything, and I didn’t get as much out of it as I had hoped.
On a positive note, the museum is well organized and the displays are attractive. Information for each item is very thorough, and printed in English, Turkish, French, German, and Arabic.
Points of Interest Outside the Main Gate of Gülhane Park
There are a few points of interest outside the main gate of Gülhane Park. They sit along Alemdar Street, which follows the T1 tram tracks.
Hamidiye Fountain
Directly in front of the main gate to Gülhane Park is the Hamidiye Fountain (Hamidiye Çeşmesi). It was built in 1777 by Sultan Abdülhamid I and was originally part of the Hamidiye Complex in Eminönü. The fountain was moved to its current location in the 1920s during construction of the Fourth Vakıf Han (4. Vakıf Han), now the Legacy Ottoman Hotel.
Zeynep Sultan Mosque
Behind the Hamidiye Fountain is the Zeynep Sultan Mosque (Zeynep Sultan Camii). It was completed in 1769 by architect Mehmed Tahir Ağa. The mosque was built by Sultan Ahmed III for his daughter, Zeynep Sultan (1714-1774). Because of its design and the construction materials used, it resembles a Byzantine church. The dome is 12.2 meters in diameter.
Military High School
West of the Hamidiye Fountain is the Military High School. It was built in the late 19th century during the reign of Sultan Abdülhamid II. Its purpose was to provide a westernized military education. After the foundation of the Turkish Republic, the building has been used as the Forensic Medicine Institution, State Security Court, and a Children’s Court.
Sublime Porte
Finally, across the street from the Alay Pavilion is the Sublime Porte (Bâb-ı Âli). It was built in the 18th century and is the most important structure in the area. Before that, the Imperial Gate to the 1st Courtyard of the palace served as the Sublime Porte.
The Sublime Porte led to the offices of the Grand Vizier and several ministries of the Ottoman government. Today, the buildings behind the gate are used by the provincial government of Istanbul.
Where to Eat at Gülhane Park
Other than street food vendors, there’s a decent sit-down option within the park.
Beltur Gülhane
Beltur Gülhane is a city-run restaurant just inside the west gate to Gülhane Park. They serve traditional Turkish cuisine at reasonable prices. I’ve stopped in a few times, usually just for coffee and cold drinks. The only meal I ate there was köfte, which was very good. Service can be a little slow when it’s hectic, but it’s otherwise very good.
