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The Church of St. George (Aya Yorgi in Turkish) is a peaceful place at the top of the highest hill on the island of Büyükada, in the Princes’ Islands of Istanbul. It’s not typically a priority for tourists, but it’s a unique place to visit.
Getting to the Church of St. George
Once the ferry arrives at Büyükada, you can hop on an electric vehicle or rent a bike and head to Unity Square (Birlik Meydanı). You’ll find lots of small stalls selling religious trinkets as well as a restaurant.
From there, it’s a long, steep walk up the hill. Without stopping, it takes about 10-15 minutes. There are benches along the way to sit, rest, and enjoy the views. There are also a few springs to get a drink of water. It can be a tough walk, especially on a hot day, but also an enjoyable one.
History of the Monastery of St. George
At the top of the hill is the small Church of St. George. It’s part of the Monastery of St. George Koudounas (Μονή Αγίου Γεωργίου Κουδουνά / Aya Yorgi Manastırı), which has stood on the same spot since 963. The early monastery was likely abandoned in either 1204 due to the Sack of Constantinople during the Fourth Crusade, or in 1302 during an attack by Venetian pirates. It was later rebuilt and was probably destroyed again in 1453 during the Fall of Constantinople.
After the 1751/52 rediscovery of an icon you’ll read about below, a monk named Isaiah rebuilt the monastery, which was officially recognized in 1760. It was financially supported by the Monastery of the Great Lavra on Mount Athos until 1781, when it was allocated to the Holy Lavra Monastery in Kalavryta. The Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople took control in 1807.
Church of St. George
Before entering the church, a sign at the door reminds visitors to dress appropriately and keep silent. Once inside, you can admire the nave, which is adorned with marble floors and beautiful iconography.
The current church was built by Abbot Dionysios Paikopoulos in 1905 and consecrated on September 10, 1908. It was designed by architect Christos Kotzas, while Ioannis Papadopoulos designed the interior. Many of the icons were painted by monks on Mount Athos.
Miraculous Icon of St. George
One icon in particular will catch your attention – that of St. George. The 14th-century icon is said to have been buried in 1453 to protect it from looting by Ottoman soldiers. It was rediscovered in 1751/52, probably by a shepherd.
The icon is said to have healing powers for those who visit the church. There’s a chance you’ll see crutches, canes, and flowers propped up against the icon. The icon case is also sometimes filled with watches, votives with parts of the body, and sometimes photos. These are all offerings of thanks for healing and the answering of prayers.
What’s So Special about the Church of St. George?
From my description, it all seems like a typical Orthodox church. But look closely at the visitors around you – the people coming up and down the hill, those lighting candles, and those asking for blessings from the priest. Not everybody is Greek. Not everybody is Christian. And that’s what’s so special about this church. Turks and Muslims join Greeks and Christians every day of the year to pray at the church. It’s really something unexpected and wonderful to see.
The feast day of St. George is especially crowded. Every April 23rd, hundreds of pilgrims, regardless of religious denomination, climb the steep hill silently to honor the saint. Some even tie a string to a bush at the bottom and unravel it all the way up to the top for good luck or for their wishes to come true.
Given a shared history that’s had many turbulent periods, it may sound unusual for people of these two religions and two ethnicities to pray together in one place peacefully. To me, it’s simple. It shows me that there are no differences between ordinary people and everyone can get along just fine.
Maybe that’s why the name of the square at the bottom of the hill translates to “Unity Square”.
Yücetepe Restaurant
If the church isn’t enough to convince you to visit, Yücetepe Restaurant is a great place next door run by a local Turkish family. It’s in a peaceful setting with picnic tables and another seating area on a terrace.
The restaurant serves up some great kebabs and meze plates. In addition to the delicious food, the view is amazing.
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