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The small town of Guaduas, about two hours from Bogotá, offers cobblestone streets, breathtaking views of the Magdalena Valley, and a deep connection to Colombia’s independence.
Introduction to Guaduas
Guaduas, officially Villa de San Miguel de Guaduas, was once inhabited by the indigenous Panche people. The town was founded on April 20, 1572, by Andrés Díaz Venero de Leiva (1495-1578). It was quickly abandoned until December 13, 1610, when Franciscan Friar Tomás de Morales founded the Monastery of la Soledad at the same location. It was officially re-founded by Francisco Pérez de Guzmán on December 27, 1644, and became an important stopping point on the road from Bogotá to Honda.
Guaduas was the birthplace of Colombian revolutionary hero Policarpa Salavarrieta (1795-1817). It was also an important scientific research center for the Royal Botanical Expedition. The town grew rapidly in the 19th century, with the first schools opening in 1833 and the first hospital in 1861. It was connected to the telegraph network in 1871.
Today, Guaduas is one of the country’s prestigious Heritage Towns (Pueblos Patrimonio). A popular respite catering to weekenders from Bogotá, the compact town center is full of small boutique hotels and restaurants as well as a handful of historic sites.
Personally, we’ve enjoyed our visits to Guaduas, which makes for a decent day trip from Bogotá or Honda. We feel it would be a good overnight trip as well. We find the town to be pleasant and relaxing with friendly people and a comfortable climate. If you’ve got extra time and your own transportation, there are a few interesting natural sites nearby.
Getting to Guaduas
Guaduas is on the main road between Bogotá and the cities of Medellín and Manizales. You won’t have a problem finding a bus there or back. From Honda, shared taxis leave from the bus station and take less than an hour.
Getting out of Guaduas, going west towards Medellín and Manizales can be tricky. On our first visit, we waited over an hour for a bus with available seats. If you’re heading to Bogotá, it’s much easier as local bus companies sell tickets for scheduled departures.
Plaza de la Constitución
Plaza de la Constitución is the town’s main plaza. It’s a large pleasant space surrounded by colonial buildings with a few palm trees in the center.
Ever since the town’s foundation in the colonial period, important civic and cultural events have been held at the plaza. In the center there was once a pool where locals would gather water with jugs. The pool was replaced by a stone and bronze fountain in 1870, donated by Leandro Gutiérrez.
Policarpa Salavarrieta Monument
In the center of the plaza is a monument to Policarpa Salavarrieta, affectionately known by Colombians as La Pola. It was made by sculptor Silvano A. Cuéllar (1873-1938) and installed on January 26, 1911. The monument replaced a column crowned with five cannonballs, now kept in the courtyard of the Casa de Policarpa Salavarrieta a block away.
Archangel Michael Cathedral
The Archangel Michael Cathedral (Catedral San Miguel Arcangel) dominates the plaza. The design of this Neoclassical church was inspired by Friar Domingo de Petrés (1759-1811), who built the Cathedral of Bogotá. The first stone was laid on August 1, 1809. It only had one tower until 1960, when the tower on the left side was finally completed.
The church features a central nave with two aisles. The main altar is decorated with a painting of Our Lady of Good Success, the patron saint of Guaduas. The altar in the left aisle is dedicated to Archangel Michael and contains a wooden carving of the angel.
Cultural Center
On the south side of the plaza lies the headquarters of the Cultural Center (Casa de la Cultura). It contains a library, small archaeological museum, temporary exhibitions, and a tourist information center. The building was the birthplace of politician Miguel Samper Agudelo (1825-1899), who co-authored the Law to Abolish Slavery in Colombia.
During our visit, there was an exhibit of art related to the life of Policarpa Salavarrieta as well as a display on Holy Week traditions in Guaduas.
The archaeological museum contains a handful of artifacts related to the indigenous peoples who once inhabited the region, including ceramics and small tools. The original clock from the cathedral is also on display. It was imported from France and installed in 1849.
Casa de los Virreyes
The west side of the plaza features the Casa de los Virreyes (House of the Viceroys). It was built by Joseph de Acosta in 1655 to serve as his residence. It quickly became the preferred place to stay for important public figures, such as viceroys, as they traveled along the Camino Real (Royal Road) through Guaduas. Manuelita Sáenz (1797-1856), the mistress of Simón Bolívar (1783-1830), attempted suicide by snakebite in the building after she heard the news of her lover’s death.
The building, which contains a central courtyard, later became the property of historian and national hero Colonel Joaquín Acosta (1800-1852) and his daughter, journalist Soledad Acosta de Samper (1833-1913). It currently serves as the headquarters of the Antonio Romero Guzmán Foundation (Fundación Antonio Romero Guzmán).
Casa Virrey Ezpeleta
On the northwest corner is the Casa Virrey Ezpeleta. This historic house was the birthplace of Colombian revolutionary hero Juana Maria Blanco y Montero (1792-1815). It also welcomed independence advocate Antonio Nariño (1765-1823) after his imprisonment in Cartagena.
The house later became the property of local benefactor Leandro Gutiérrez and served as the residence of historian Alberto Hincapié Espinosa (d. 2002), who also opened the Museum of Viceroy Ezpeleta (Museo del Virrey Ezpeleta). The museum’s artifacts have transferred to the restaurant that now operates there.
Casa Consistorial
On the northeast corner of the plaza is the Casa Consistorial. The building, which was constructed started in 1644, served as the headquarters for the Spanish authorities. It was later replaced by a two-story adobe structure. The offices were on the second floor while a prison was on the first floor. Town criers read decrees and news from the balcony during the Sunday market. The building later became the offices of the mayor and municipal council.
On February 3-4, 1782, the head of José Antonio Galán (c. 1741-1782), the leader of the Revolt of the Comuneros, was publicly displayed in the prison before it was displayed on a stake at the exit to the town. The text of the act declared upon the head’s arrival is carved in stone on the right side of the façade.
Patio del Moro
Patio del Moro, which was built around 1770 next to the river running through Guaduas, is just north of the plaza. It was the first two-story building in town and features a central patio with an octagonal basin. The building has Moorish characteristics, hence the name. Stores have always occupied the spaces out front, the lower floor had a living room and dining room, and bedrooms were on the upper floor. A small museum containing art and artifacts related to local traditions once operated inside, opening in 1996.
Casa de Policarpa Salavarrieta
The Casa de Policarpa Salavarrieta is located a block south of the plaza. The revolutionary hero was born and lived in this modest house, which is also a good example of an Guaduas home. Admission is free but donations are accepted (as of June 2025).
The house features adobe walls, round wooden beams tied with vines, tile and baked mud floors, and a palm rooftop. There’s a central sitting room with bedrooms on each side. The rooms display period artifacts and images representing the lifetime of Salavarrieta and her contribution to Colombian independence.
Behind the house is a large patio with a timeline of Salavarrieta’s life and a mural on the opposite wall. You’ll also find a statue of the hero near the timeline.
In the center of the patio is the column that once stood in the center of Plaza de la Constitución, replaced by a monument to Salavarrieta. Next to the mural is a detached kitchen filled with utensils from the early 19th century.
Miguel Samper Agudelo High School
Miguel Samper Agudelo High School (Colegio Miguel Samper Agudelo) is a block south. It was founded on September 29, 1926, by Pedro Miguel Samper Madrid (1870-1927), the nephew of politician Miguel Samper Agudelo (1825-1899). In the courtyard is a huge mural of important figures in Colombian history. The school moved to a modern building outside the historic town center in 1967.
During our first visit to Guaduas, it was the temporary home of the Cultural Center and displayed artifacts from the Casa de Policarpa Salavarrieta while it was under restoration. Once renovation was complete, everything was moved back to the house and Cultural Center.
Monastery of la Soledad
The Monastery of la Soledad (Convento de la Soledad), a couple blocks east of the plaza, was founded by Franciscan Friar Tomás de Morales on December 13, 1610, on the site of the abandoned settlement of Guaduas. A group of houses soon surrounded the property leading to the re-founding of the town.
The monastery welcomed important guests including Simón Bolívar (1783-1830), Antonio Nariño (1765-1823), and José Celestino Mutis (1732-1808). It was closed shortly after 1805.
The monastery consisted of a two-story cloister with Roman-style arches around a central courtyard. Friars used the grounds to grow flowers, medicinal plants, and fruit for their own consumption. A monument to Policarpa Salavarrieta sits inside the gate.
Casa Real
Casa Real is an interesting colonial building a couple blocks west of the plaza. Built in the 18th century, it’s said that Policarpa Salavarrieta and her Spanish lover Alejo would often meet there. The patio now serves as a restaurant.
Mirador Piedra Capira
Mirador Piedra Capira is a short drive northwest of Guaduas. You’ll need to hire a taxi or have your own transportation to get there. Follow the main highway towards Honda until you see a sign on the left side of the road. Turn left and follow the bumpy gravel road until you come to a cobblestone path. Take your time – the road is narrow and I recommend having a 4×4.
A sign at the beginning of the path says it’s open Friday through Sunday and to call for access Monday through Thursday. You don’t need to call anyone. The rock is open at all times and free of charge (as of June 2025). Just follow the path until the end. It takes about five minutes and is slightly uphill.
At the end, you’ll cross a small bridge to the rock. There are a couple steps carved in to get to the top where there’s a cross and a dedication. Hold onto your hats because it’s extremely windy up there!
From the top, you’ll be treated to spectacular views of the Magdalena Valley and the snow-capped peaks of Los Nevados National Park. We were able to spot Nevado del Ruiz and Nevado del Tolima on the day we visited.
Salto de Versalles
In a rural area north of town down a gravel road you’ll find Salto de Versalles. It’s a beautiful waterfall open to the public for free (as of June 2025). There’s a small parking lot and a donation box at the trailhead, which leads down a steep path. At the bottom is a dirt path that runs for about 80 meters before reaching the falls.
The falls are gorgeous and a great place to sit and relax. There was a family having a picnic when we visited, and a few people were swimming in the natural pools opposite the falls. I wouldn’t recommend getting in the water, however, because it’s not exactly clean.
Near the falls, there’s also a short ecological trail where you can observe some of the native plant life in the area. It only takes a minute to walk to the end and back.
Where to Eat in Guaduas
We’ve had a couple lunches and coffee on our few visits to town.
Al Carbón del Virrey (Permanently Closed)
For our first visit, we ate lunch at Al Carbón del Virrey, which is located at the Casa Virrey Ezpeleta. The fixed menu included a choice of soup and either fish, chicken, or beef. The tomato soup was excellent as was the meat dish. We enjoyed sitting in the beautiful courtyard.
El Museo
El Museo took over the location of Al Carbón del Virrey, and we decided to eat there a few years after our first visit. We sat down, ordered the set menu, and after 45 minutes we had only received a soup and salad. Not even our drinks had been served. We got up, left a few thousand pesos on the table, and walked away. It was a terrible experience.
Salomé
Salomé is a café on the plaza in the Casa de los Virreyes. In addition to coffee, they have a variety of dishes for breakfast and lunch as well as desserts, smoothies, and other drinks. We stopped in for coffee and it was alright.