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Taksim is the heart of modern Istanbul, Turkey. It’s centered around Taksim Square and Istiklal Street in the Beyoğlu district.
Introduction to Taksim
Taksim is one of the most popular places in the city for both tourists and locals. There’s plenty to explore if you get off the beaten path, like I will show in this post. Here, you’ll find some of the important historic buildings and landmarks outside Taksim Square and Istiklal Street. The majority of what you’ll read below is on the side streets and back streets off Istiklal Street.
Zambak and Meşelik Streets
The first intersection walking down Istiklal Street, turning right will take you down Zambak Street and turning left will take you down Meşelik Street. There are a few historic buildings on each street.
Vosgeperan Armenian Catholic Church
A block down Zambak Street is Surp Hovhan Vosgeperan Armenian Catholic Church (Vosgeperan Ermeni Katolik Kilisesi). It’s the largest Armenian Catholic church in Turkey and is well worth a visit if it’s open.
Vosgeperan Church was originally built in 1837, but it was later destroyed and burned. The current church was built between 1860 and 1863 by architect Garabet Tülbentçiyan. It was visited by Pope John Paul II in 1979.
The church has a capacity of 600 worshippers. It’s topped by an octagonal dome and has chapels on the sides. To the right of the entrance are a few plaques with Armenian inscriptions.
The main altar sits on the east end of the church under a vaulted apse. The pulpit sits between two side chapels to the right of the altar.
Visiting Vosgeperan Church was a nice experience for me. One of the parishioners was standing outside and invited me in to look around. We had a nice chat mixed with English, Turkish, and Greek.
Having a chance to visit Armenian churches or cemeteries in Istanbul has been a rare occurrence for me. Usually, caretakers are reluctant to let me in, which is understandable given the history of Armenians in Turkey, but some have been downright rude. Luckily for me, after seeing Vosgeperan Church was open and receiving a nice welcome, I was able to enjoy the beauty of the building.
Agia Triada Greek Orthodox Church
Agia Triada Greek Orthodox Church (Holy Trinity / Ιερός Ναός Αγίας Τριάδος / Aya Triada Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi) is located along Meşelik Street. It’s the largest Greek Orthodox church in Istanbul and one of the most recognizable landmarks in Taksim. Many visitors are actually quite surprised to see a large dome and the bell towers of a Christian church from Taksim Square.
Agia Triada was built between 1876 and 1880 on the grounds of a former Greek hospital and cemetery. The architect who started construction was Potessaro and it was completed by either Patroklos Kampanaki or Vassilaki Ioannidis.
Thanks to Tanzimat reforms from 1839 to 1876, Agia Triada was the first domed church to be built in Constantinople since Byzantine times. Sakellarios Megaklis painted and decorated the interior while sculptor Alexandros Krikelis created marble works.
On September 6-7, 1955, the church was pillaged during the Istanbul pogrom. It withstood an arson attack by rioters trying to light it on fire with kerosene. Priests refuse to clean surrounding buildings on the property blackened by the attack so the riots will be remembered.
The church is used daily by the small Greek Orthodox community that remains in the Taksim area. Usually, only the narthex is open, where visitors can light a candle and see some of the icons on display.
If the church is closed and the caretaker is around, you can ask to be let inside. The only times I visited the interior were during Easter in 2011 and for Sunday services.
Zappeion Greek School
On the left just past Agia Triada is the Zappeion Greek School (Özel Zapyon Rum Lisesi). This private school was founded by Greek philanthropist Evangelis Zappas (1800-1865) and was vandalized during the Istanbul pogrom on September 6-7, 1955.
Esayan Armenian School
Across the street is the Esayan Armenian School (Özel Esayan Ermeni Lisesi), which was established in 1895 by brothers Hovhannes and Mıgirdiç Esayan. From 1918 to 1922, part of the school was used as an orphanage.
Hrisovergi Apartment
Next door is the Hrisovergi Apartment (Hrisovergi Apartmanı), which was built in 1899. It’s owned by the Balıklı Greek Hospital Foundation (Balıklı Rum Hastanesi Vakfı) and today is full of offices.
Le Palais de Belgique
Finally, at the end of Meşelik Street across Sıraselviler Street is Le Palais de Belgique. This Neoclassical mansion has housed the Belgian Consulate since 1900.
Küçük Parmakkapı and Büyük Parmakkapı Streets
The next two streets to the left are Küçük Parmakkapı and Büyük Parmakkapı. Küçük Parmakkapı has a few nargile cafés while following Büyük Parmakkapı to Çukurlu Çeşme Street will lead you to some great lesser-known restaurants. There are also a few minor points of interest on and just past Çukurlu Çeşme Street.
Afrika Han
Afrika Han sits between Küçük Parmakkapı and Büyük Parmakkapı. It was built by Ragıp Sarıca Pasha and completed in 1906. It’s less ornate than the other buildings he commissioned on Istiklal Street, Rumeli Han and Anadolu Han.
Afrika Han is 10 stories tall and consists of 4 blocks connected by an atrium. There were originally 20 shops and 62 residences. The complex was sold in 2006 and tenants started moving out. In November 2021, it was announced that Afrika Han would be renovated and reopen as a 160-room hotel by April 2023. That hasn’t happened (as of July 2024) and the building remains boarded up. I hope to see the results of the renovation in the future.
Saint Pulcherie French High School
Saint Pulcherie French High School (Özel Sainte Pulcherie Fransız Lisesi / Lycée Sainte-Pulchérie) is on Çukurlu Çeşme Street. It was founded on June 15, 1846, by French nuns and named after Saint Pulcheria. It operated in the former French Plague Hospital on a site near the French Consulate before moving to another location. The school closed from 1914 to 1919 due to World War I and reopened in the current building, which was previously an Italian school for boys. Today, it’s one of the top high schools in Turkey, with students benefitting from a bilingual French and Turkish education.
Central Greek High School
Around the corner on Maç Street is the Central Greek High School (Özel Merkez Rum Lisesi). It was built in 1850 to educate girls from a lower class background. The last lesson took place in 1999, and the building now serves as a residence for its caretakers.
Yeşilçam Street
Yeşilçam Street, which runs from Istiklal Street along the Grand Pera Mall, curves to the left around the mall. Turkish cinema is named after the street because many directors, actors, and studios were based there. When I lived in Istanbul, it was a decent entertainment zone full of colorful buildings as well as a few bars. Unfortunately, those days are long gone and the street is now devoid of life and all the color has been washed away.
Turnacıbaşı Street
Continuing down Istiklal Street, it’s worth turning left onto Turnacıbaşı Street (Turnacıbaşı Sokak). There are a few more historic buildings located there.
Zografeion Lyceum
First is the Zografeion Lyceum (Ζωγράφειον Λύκειον / Özel Zografyon Rum Lisesi). It’s one of the few remaining Greek schools open in the city.
The school was named after Christakis Zografos (1820-1898), a prominent Ottoman Greek banker. Zografos donated the most money when the Greek community decided to build the school in the late 19th century. The architect of the building was Periklis Fotiadis. It opened in 1893 and the first alumni graduated in 1899.
Before the Istanbul pogrom on September 6-7, 1955, the school consistently had 250 to 350 students enrolled annually. In recent times, enrollment has hovered around 45 students with 20 teachers.
Famous artists, politicians, theologians, and architects of the Greek diaspora have studied at Zografeion Lyceum. Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew I was one of them.
Galatasaray Hamam
Galatasaray Hamam (Tarihi Galatasaray Hamamı) is just past the school. It was founded in 1481 and was originally part of a mosque complex. In the past, students of Galatasaray High School, which is just next to the bath, would have hamam service every morning before class. Nowadays, it’s open to the public and several different services are available. The men’s bath is open from 7am to 10pm and the women’s bath is open from 8am to 9pm.
Italian High School
After Turnacıbaşı Street curves to the left, there’s the Galileo Galilei Italian High School (Özel Galileo Galilei Italyan Lisesi). This private high school was founded in 1870 and moved to its current location in 1882. It closed from 1911 to 1919 due to the Turkish-Italian War and World War I. The school currently offers English language education for a five year period of study.
Siniosoglou Mansion
Finally, next door is the Siniosoglou Mansion, which is where all consular services for the Greek Consulate General take place. The Sismanoglio Megaro on Istiklal Street hosts cultural events.
From there, you can turn around and head back to Istiklal Street, or continue down Turnacıbaşı Street to Cihangir or Çukurcuma, where you can find antique shops and the Museum of Innocence.
Balo Street
The entrance to Balo Street is opposite Turnacıbası Street. It’s lined with a few popular bars and pubs.
Doğançay Museum
If you walk all the way to the end of Balo Street to Tarlabaşı Boulevard, you’ll find the Doğançay Museum. It opened to the public in 2004 as Turkey’s first modern art museum and displays works by Burhan Doğançay (1929-2013). Admission is free (as of July 2024) and it’s open daily except Mondays from 10am to 6pm.
Sahne Street
Most people don’t recognize the name Sahne Street, but it’s one of the most popular streets in Taksim. If you’re walking down Istiklal Street from Taksim Square, turn right at Flower Passage (Çiçek Pazarı) to walk through the colorful Beyoğlu Fish Market. There are also a few historic buildings along the street.
Beyoğlu Fish Market
The Beyoğlu Fish Market (Balık Pazarı) is one of the most popular places for locals and tourists to visit along Istiklal Street. Although it’s not what it used to be, the market is a great place to see local life in action. Of course, it’s filled with stalls selling fresh fish, but there are also fruit and vegetable stalls and plenty of shops selling souvenirs to tourists. There are places to grab some street food as well. (Note: the iron gates have been removed and were not there on my last few trips to Istanbul.)
Europe Passage
On the left side of Sahne Street is the entrance to Europe Passage (Avrupa Pasajı). It’s one of the most beautiful arcades in Taksim. It was commissioned by the Ohing family and built in 1874 by Austrian architect Domenico Pulgher.
The arcade is 56 meters (183.73 feet) long and contains 22 stores. The interior walls are covered with Maltese stone while statues decorate niches above the ground floor. In the past, the arcade was decorated with mirrors that were used to reflect the light of gas lamps. Europe Passage has entrances on both Sahne and Meşrutiyet Streets.
Üç Horan Armenian Church
About halfway down Sahne Street, tucked behind a pair of large doors, is Üç Horan Armenian Church, also known as the Surp Yerrortutyun Armenian Church. It was built between 1836 and 1838 by Ottoman Armenian architect Garabet Amira Balyan (1800-1866) but the parish has existed since at least the early 16th century. The church hosted the funeral of Ara Güler (1928-2018), an internationally known Armenian-Turkish photographer, in October 2018.
You can enter the complex when the doors are open, but it’s not exactly the friendliest place to visit. On both of my visits, the caretaker was quite rude and reluctant to show us the church. No photos are allowed inside.
Nevizade Street
Nevizade, which connects Balo and Sahne Streets is a street famous for its meyhanes (tavernas). It comes to life every night of the week, and there are plenty of great places to choose from.
Enjoy some meze plates, then a main meat or fish dish, and wash it down with some rakı, beer, or wine. You’re guaranteed to have a great time.
North of Taksim Square
There are a couple notable buildings sit on the edges of Gezi Park north of Taksim Square.
Atatürk Library
Hidden east of Gezi Park is the Atatürk Library (Atatürk Kitaplığı), which was built in 1973 by architect Sedat Hakkı Eldem and has been open since March 3, 1981. It houses one of the city’s first public libraries of the Republican era, founded in 1924. There are over a half million items in its collection and it’s open 24 hours a day.
Stone Barracks
Across from the northeast corner of Gezi Park are the Stone Barracks (Taşkışla). They were built by English architect William James Smith between 1846 and 1852. It was originally used as a military hospital (Mekteb-i Tıbbiye-i Şahane) and treated French soldiers during the Crimean War. In 1860, it was converted into a military barracks to protect Dolmabahçe Palace, which is a short distance downhill.
After the foundation of the Turkish Republic, the building was assigned to the Ministry of Education. It was renovated between 1943 and 1950 by German architect Paul Bonatz (1877-1956) and Turkish architect Emin Onat (1908-1961). The barracks were then used as the rectorate of Istanbul Technical University (İstanbul Teknik Üniversitesi) and the Faculty of Architecture. Between 1980 and 1989, there were controversial plans to turn it into a hotel. They were cancelled and the building was returned to the university. It currently houses the İTÜ Faculty of Architecture and is the terminus for the Maçka Gondola.
