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Cihangir is a bohemian neighborhood south of Taksim Square in Istanbul, Turkey. It consists of several cafés scattered throughout its narrow streets.
History
The neighborhood was a wooded hunting ground during the time of Süleyman the Magnificent. It didn’t become a significant settlement until the late 19th century when several Europeans purchased land there. Non-Muslim residents began leaving or were forced out in the 1930s and Cihangir became a neighborhood of migrants and workers.
In the 1970s, Cihangir began to attract artists, actors, and intellectuals. It continues to be a popular place for the intellectual community as well as expats. In 2013, it was a stronghold for Gezi Park protesters.
There’s not much to see in the neighborhood as a tourist, but it’s a great place to live. I lived there for seven months in 2011 and have very fond memories. At that time it was considered one of the best places to live in Istanbul. In 2012, it was also named as one of the top five places in the world to live.
Belgian Consulate
First, near Taksim Square along Sıraselviler Street is the Belgian Consulate, which is housed in a historic mansion.
Cihangir Park
Winding through the streets down towards the Bosporus is Cihangir Park (Cihangir Parkı). This tiny space is one of the only open-air refuges in the neighborhood.
Orhan Kemal Museum
On the west side of the neighborhood, near the antiques district of Çukurcuma, is the Orhan Kemal Museum (Orhan Kemal Müzesi). It’s dedicated to Turkish novelist Orhan Kemal (1914-1970), who lived in the house. On display are books, personal items, and photographs as well as his death mask. The museum is open daily except Sundays and admission is 40₺ (as of September 2023).
Sadık Pasha Mansion
About a block south of Cihangir Park is the Sadık Pasha Mansion. This neoclassical wooden home was built in the mid 19th century by Michał Czajkowski, a Polish writer who was also known as Mehmet Sadık Pasha. He was sent to Constantinople to arrange political asylum for Polish and Hungarian refugees. Although it looks quite run down from the street, it occasionally hosts art exhibitions.
Cihangir Mosque
A few steps from the Sadık Pasha Mansion is the Cihangir Mosque (Cihangir Camii). It was originally a wooden mosque built in 1559 by Mimar Sinan and reconstructed in 1889.
The mosque was built to commemorate the death of Şehzade Cihangir (1531-1553), the son of Süleyman the Magnificent. The name of the neighborhood comes from the mosque. It’s usually open only for prayers.
Even if the mosque itself is closed, it’s worth popping into the courtyard for the fantastic views over the Bosporus.
Rainbow Stairs
Finally, you can walk down to Fındıklı or Tophane using the famous rainbow stairs near the mosque. They’re located on Salı Pazarı Yokuşu.
