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The small, modest complex of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople (Οικουμενικό Πατριαρχείο Κωνσταντινουπόλεως / Rum Ortodoks Patrikhanesi) in Istanbul, Turkey, is widely regarded as the spiritual headquarters of the world’s Orthodox Christians.
Brief History of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople
The Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople can trace its roots back to St. Andrew the Apostle, the founder of the See of Byzantium. It’s not the oldest of the sees, but it was elevated in importance when Constantine moved the capital of the Roman Empire to Byzantium (renamed Constantinople, now Istanbul) in 330 AD. It survived the Ottoman conquest in 1453 and played a significant role in Ottoman politics (although a number of Patriarchs were executed by the Sultan).
The Ecumenical Patriarchate has had several homes, including Hagia Eirine, Megali Ekklisia, Hagia Sophia, and for a brief period during the Latin occupation of Constantinople, at Hagia Sophia in Nicaea (Iznik). After bouncing around different churches over several years, Patriarch Matthew II moved the Patriarchate to its current location in 1600.
The Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople has no jurisdiction over the other several autocephalous Orthodox Churches, but he is, however, the head of the church in the Americas, Western Europe, Australia, New Zealand, and some parts of Greece. In a historical context, he’s considered “first among equals” when there is a council involving other Orthodox primates and bishops. Visit the official website for more info.
Visiting the Ecumenical Patriarchate
The Ecumenical Patriarchate is located in Fener and is open daily. The Patriarchal Complex sits behind a large stone wall with an entrance guarded by a security booth. Visitors must go through a metal detector and have their bags scanned before being allowed to enter.
To get to the Ecumenical Patriarchate, take the 55T bus from Taksim and get off at the Fener stop, and walk a short distance to the complex. The T5 tram line running from Eminönü is also an option. You can connect to it from the T1 tram line at Eminönü or the M2 metro line at Küçükpazar (Golden Horn Metro Bridge), then get off at the Fener stop and walk across the street towards the complex.
Gate of Patriarch Gregory V
After passing through security, you might notice there are two gates in the walls of the complex, but only one of them functions today. The gate directly in front was welded shut after Patriarch Gregory V (1746-1821) was hung from it after celebrating liturgy on Easter Sunday in 1821.
The execution was ordered by Ottoman Sultan Mahmud II in response to the start of the Greek Revolution. His body was given to the city’s Jews to be dragged through the streets, which created further tension between the Jewish and Greek minorities. They eventually threw his body into the Golden Horn where it was recovered by Greek sailors and taken to Odessa. Gregory V is interred at the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens.
Pavilion of the Holy Myron
Once through the gates, visitors find themselves in the Pavilion of the Holy Myron. The holy myron (myrrh or chrism) is prepared in boilers in this courtyard during Holy Week and distributed to churches around the world for use in the sacraments of baptism and chrismation. On the opposite side of the courtyard is the Church of St. George and the New Patriarchal House.
Church of St. George
The Church of St. George (Καθεδρικός ναός του Αγίου Γεωργίου / Aya Yorgi Kilisesi) has been the seat of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople since 1600.
The Church of St. George was originally part of a convent of Orthodox nuns. It was converted to the Patriarchal Church in 1600 by Patriarch Matthew II (d. 1603). Patriarch Timothy II (d. 1620) refurbished the church in 1614 and Patriarch Jeremias III (c. 1650-1735) rebuilt it after a fire in 1720. It has been destroyed by fire several times, most recently in 1941, and almost no structural feature of the original church exists. The church as seen today dates back mostly to a reconstruction in 1797.
Other churches to serve as the Patriarchal Church are Hagia Eirine; Megali Ekklisia; Hagia Sophia; Hagia Sophia in Nicaea (Iznik) (1205-1262); Church of the Holy Apostles (1453-1456), where the Fatih Mosque is now located; the Pammakaristos Church (1456-1587); the Church of the Virgin Paramythia (1587-1597) in Fener; and the Church of St. Demetrios Xyloportas (1597-1600) in Ayvansaray.
Narthex of the Church of St. George
Inside the entrance is the narthex. It features an intricate entrance to the nave and is flanked by icons. To the left is an icon of Prophet Elijah wearing fur in memory of the furriers who installed a water system at the Ecumenical Patriarchate. To the right is an icon of St. George, for whom the church is dedicated.
There are two candle stands in the narthex. To the left is the candle stand currently in use. To the right is a 17th century candle stand made of walnut with inlaid ivory petals in the shape of pentagons. It’s a replica of early Egyptian craftsmanship.
During visiting hours, the only entrance to the nave is a door that opens to the left aisle. The central doors are only open during church services. The doors to the left and right aisles are topped with icons, while an inscription also sits above the door to the right aisle.
Nave of the Church of St. George
Once inside the dimly lit nave of the church, the grandeur associated with Orthodox churches is more evident as compared to the exterior. It’s still quite modest for such an important place of worship.
Pulpit
One of the first things visitors notice while walking towards the altar is the pulpit. It’s wrapped around a column and made of walnut with inlaid mother-of-pearl. The pulpit is traditionally attributed to St. John Chrysostom (c. 347-407) but an inscription dates it to Patriarch Gabriel III (d. 1707).
Patriarchal Throne
One of the most interesting features in the nave is the Patriarchal Throne. It’s traditionally attributed to St. John Chrysostom but an inscription dates it to 1577. It’s four meters tall and shaped like a vine. The throne is made of walnut and inlaid with mother of pearl, ivory, and colored wood. The 17th century icon of Christ Pantocrator on the throne was commissioned by Patriarch Paisius I (d. 1688).
Cantor Stands
Just past the throne on either side of the nave are two cantor stands. They’re made of walnut with inlaid ivory. They were transferred to the church in 1942 from the Byzantine church of Panagia Kamariotissa on Halki (Heybeliada).
Iconostasis
The most striking feature of the Church of St. George is the wooden iconostasis covered in gold leaf. It separates the nave from the altar and is divided into three levels. The iconostasis was made in the 18th century and features a mixture of Byzantine, Renaissance, Baroque, and Ottoman styles.
Relics of the Three Hierarchs
In the left aisle of the nave, visitors will find the stairs up to the pulpit as well as the relics of three important bishops. They were the most influential theologians of the early church and are celebrated throughout the Christian world.
The relics belong to St. Basil the Great (330-379), St. Gregory the Theologian (c. 329-390), and St. John Chrysostom. They rest in marble reliquaries with an icon of each saint in front.
After the Fourth Crusade in 1204, the relics of these three saints were looted and taken from Constantinople to Rome. Pope John Paul II (1920-2005) returned the relics of St. Gregory the Theologian and St. John Chrysostom to the Ecumenical Patriarchate in November 2004, 800 years after the Sack of Constantinople. A plaque in Latin on top of their reliquaries commemorates their return. The relics of St. Basil were returned at a later date.
Icon of Panagia Faneromeni of Cyzicus
Also in the left aisle is a priceless Byzantine icon of Panagia Faneromeni of Cyzicus (Κύζικος). It may date back to the 12th century and is entirely covered in gold and silver except for the faces and hands of Christ and the Virgin Mary. The icon was brought to the Church of St. George when Greeks from Artaki (Αρτάκη, now Erdek) were forced to leave their homes during the population exchange between Greece and Turkey in 1923. Artaki was inhabited after ancient Cyzicus was abandoned in the 11th century.
Relics of Three Women
On the right aisle are the relics of three female saints in caskets. They include St. Euphemia (d. 303), who was martyred in Chalcedon (now Kadıköy), and St. Theophano (866-897), the wife of Byzantine Emperor Leo VI the Wise. The third set of relics is attributed to St. Solomone, the mother of the Maccabees, but probably belongs to Mary Salome, one of the myrrh-bearing women who witnessed the Resurrection. An icon stands in front of each Casket.
Icon of Panagia Pammakaristos
Next is a Byzantine mosaic icon of Panagia Pammakaristos, which was the most important icon in the Patriarchal Church of the Pammakaristos. It dates back to the mid-11th century and depicts the Virgin Mary holding the infant Christ in a depiction of the Hodegetria. When the Pammakaristos Church was converted into the Fethiye Mosque in 1597, the icon moved with the Ecumenical Patriarchate to its next location and has featured in all subsequent Patriarchal Churches. The icon is very fragile and in serious need of restoration.
Icon of St. John the Baptist
Along the iconostasis is a Byzantine mosaic icon of St. John the Baptist. Like the Panagia Pammakaristos mosaic, it also came from the Pammakaristos Church and dates back to the mid-11th century.
Pillar of Flagellation
Finally, in the corner of the right aisle is a section of the Pillar of Flagellation. Christ was chained to this pillar and whipped during His Passion. Two other sections believed to exist are in Rome and in the Chapel of the Apparition at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.
Services at the Church of St. George
On Sundays and major holidays, the church is jam-packed with Orthodox Christian worshippers from all over the world. It’s quite a scene to witness the Patriarch officiating a service alongside many bishops. I was able to take a not-so-clear video on my old iPhone 3GS on November 28, 2010.
On September 15, 2011, I was at the church for a service on the feast day of St. Euphemia. Her coffin was in front of the altar and open for pilgrims to venerate her relics.
On October 3, 2019, I was able to witness a ceremony of priests being elected and elevated as bishops.
New Patriarchal House at the Ecumenical Patriarchate
On the west side of the complex is the New Patriarchal House. It contains the offices of the Ecumenical Patriarchate, a private chapel, living quarters for clergy, a dining hall, official chambers, and the conference room of the Holy Synod.
The original offices of the Ecumenical Patriarchate were destroyed by fire in 1941. They were rebuilt a few decades later as the New Patriarchal House by Patriarch Demetrios I (1914-1991).
Inside the main entrance, there’s a grand staircase as well as three mosaic panels. First, at the landing of the staircase is a mosaic of Christ enthroned, blessing all who enter the building.
On the wall to the left is a mosaic featuring Mehmed the Conqueror and Patriarch Gennadios II (c. 1400-c. 1473). It was placed there to remind the modern Turkish government of the historic cooperation, although turbulent at times, between the Ottoman government and Orthodox Church. I won’t get into the complicated politics of modern Turkey, but they see the Patriarch as merely a local priest in charge of the dwindling Greek Orthodox minority in the country.
The third mosaic panel depicts St. Andrew the Apostle, the founder of the See of Byzantium. He’s passing a bible to St. Stachys the Apostle, who was the second bishop of Byzantium from 38 AD to 54 AD.
Constantiniana and Evgenidion
Two buildings sit next to the New Patriarchal House on the north side of the Patriarchal Complex. The Constantiniana, on the left, contains rooms for clergy. It was constructed by Patriarch Constantine V (1833-1914) in the 19th century. To the right is the Evgenidion, which was built by Patriarch Joachim III (1834-1912) as a residence. It was restored at the turn of the 20th century with funds from benefactor Efstathios Evgenidis and again in 2018.
Tower and Adjoining Edifices
Finally, on the south side of the Patriarchal Complex is the Tower and other adjoining edifices. The Tower was built in the 18th century and is used to store the holy myron. It also houses the archives and a museum. The wooden structure next to the Tower contains the Patriarchal Library offices and a dormitory. It was built by Patriarch Joachim III in the early 1880s. A stone house once featured a 17th century printing press until 1964, and now houses rare icons and manuscripts.
Audience with the Ecumenical Patriarch
I worked at the office for a short time and was able to see many of the rooms, including a private audience with Patriarch Bartholomew I. I’ve also been fortunate enough to meet with the Patriarch on several other occasions. Pilgrimage groups can request an audience by going through the proper channels.
