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Üsküdar, one of the most colorful neighborhoods in Istanbul, sits on the Asian shores of the Bosporus. It’s the main part of the Üsküdar district.
Introduction to Üsküdar
Üsküdar is a more conservative area of the city that captures the old world feeling that has gone missing from many historical neighborhoods on the European side. Crowded and full of action but not chaotic, there are plenty of things to see and do. It’s a great place to spend a day wandering.
Üsküdar was founded by the ancient Greeks as Chrysópolis (Χρυσόπολις). During the Byzantine period, the name changed to Skoutárion (Σκουτάριον), and later Scutari. It was conquered by the Ottomans 100 years before Constantinople.
Naturally, you would expect there to be lots of historic places. Barely anything from Byzantine period exists, but there are several important Ottoman mosques that are well worth visiting. Most are within reasonable walking distance from the ferry terminal.
Aside from the historic mosques, two more things I love about Üsküdar are the shoreline path with spectacular views of the European side and the bustling markets.
Getting to Üsküdar
The most enjoyable way to arrive is via ferry to Üsküdar Square, which is one of the main transportation hubs on the Asian side. There’s frequent service on the Istanbul City Ferry Lines (İstanbul Şehir Hatları) and Turyol ferries from Karaköy and Eminönü (as of March 2024). Dentur Avrasya provides service from Beşiktaş and Kabataş (as of March 2024).
The Marmaray gets you across the Bosporus from the European side or other points on the Asian side. There’s access to the M5 metro line via Üsküdar station, and it’s also possible to take a dolmuş from Taksim Square or Kadıköy.
Üsküdar Square
Üsküdar Square (Üsküdar Meydanı) is the main square in Üsküdar. It’s a transportation hub and several attractions are on or near the square. If you’re arriving by ferry, it’s a great experience for first time visitors to explore this area before getting deeper into the neighborhood.
Starting near the ferry terminal, there’s a small area with snack bars, street vendors, flower sellers, and benches to sit. It’s a great place for people watching. There are also lots of people fishing right along the Bosporus.
Üsküdar Square is a great place to sit and enjoy the views across the Bosporus. Some of the landmarks you can easily spot are Dolmabahçe Palace, Beşiktaş Stadium, and the buildings at Taksim Square.
Fountain of Ahmed III
In front of the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque is the Fountain of Ahmed III (III. Ahmed Çeşmesi). It was built by Sultan Ahmed III in 1728 to honor his mother, Gülnuş Sultan (1642-1715). It was designed by Ottoman court architect Kayserili Mehmed Ağa (d. 1742), and contains poetry verses and calligraphy by Ahmed III himself.
The fountain provided drinking water for travelers and for people to complete their ritual ablutions before praying. It was originally right on the waterfront but due to redevelopment of the area, the fountain was dismantled and moved to its current location in 1932-33.
Mihrimah Sultan Mosque
The Mihrimah Sultan Mosque (Mihrimah Sultan Camii) is one of three Ottoman mosques on Üsküdar Square. It was commissioned by Mihrimah Sultan (1522-1578), the daughter of Süleyman the Magnificent and the wife of Grand Vizier Rüstem Pasha (1500-1561). In addition to the mosque in Üsküdar, Mihrimah Sultan also built another larger mosque of the same name at Edirnekapı.
The architect was Mimar Sinan (1490-1588) and the mosque was built between 1543 and 1548. It was constructed at the same time as the Şehzade Mosque. The mosque complex consisted of a madrasa, medical school, primary school, and caravanserai. Only some of these structure have survived. The madrasa is used today as a health center.
The ablutions fountain sits under a pavilion extending from the porch. It has 20 corners and is made of marble. Tombs belonging to Mihrimah Sultan’s two children as well as Grand Vizier Ibrahim Edhem Pasha (1819-1893) and the Grand Admiral (Kaptan-ı Derya) of the Ottoman Navy, Sinan Pasha, are part of the complex.
The entrance to the prayer hall sits behind a double portico. The prayer hall itself is beautifully decorated as expected. It has a marble minbar and is topped by a dome 10 meters in diameter. For a virtual tour of the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque, click here.
Yeni Valide Mosque
The Yeni Valide Mosque (Yeni Valide Camii) is another mosques on Üsküdar Square. It was built by Sultan Ahmed III between 1708 and 1710 in honor of his mother, Gülnuş Sultan (1642-1715). She was also the mother of Mustafa II and the consort of Mehmed IV. Gülnuş Sultan is buried in an open-air tomb next to the mosque. The tomb features intricate metal latticework.
The mosque complex included a fountain, timing room, primary school, and arasta bazaar. The soup kitchen (imaret) sits to the north of the mosque facing Üsküdar Square.
The mosque features a monumental entrance to the courtyard. An ablutions fountain (şadırvan) sits in the center of the courtyard
The prayer hall is beautifully decorated with floral patterns and calligraphy by Hezarfen Mehmet Efendi. It’s topped by a single dome supported by four semi-domes.
I enjoyed spending time inside as it was easily one of the most peaceful and quiet places I could find in such a bustling city. Outside, people hurry by trying to get to work or the markets while traffic zooms past. Once inside, I could hear only the ticking of the clock. It was a great place for me to sit and reflect.
Balaban Lodge
On the square in front of the Yeni Valide Mosque is the Balaban Lodge (Balaban Tekkesi). It was a dervish lodge built in 1637. The building was rebuilt in 2009 based on old photographs.
Şemsi Pasha Mosque
In an amazing location along the Bosporus on the west side of the square is the Şemsi Pasha Mosque (Şemsi Paşa Camii). This tiny mosque is a minor work of Mimar Sinan (1490-1588). It was commissioned by Grand Vizier Şemsi Ahmed Pasha (d. 1580) and built between 1580 and 1581. It’s one of the smallest mosques in Istanbul built for a Grand Vizier.
The tomb of Şemsi Ahmed Pasha is attached to the prayer hall. There’s a small Ottoman cemetery outside containing the graves of his descendants.
Üsküdar Shoreline
A beautiful shoreline promenade starts next to the Şemsi Pasha Mosque and continues around to the south along the Bosporus. It’s a great place to take a walk and enjoy the scenery of Istanbul.
Near the beginning of the promenade you’ll notice the numbers 1453 and 1923. Those are significant dates in Turkish history. 1453 marks the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople while 1923 marks the foundation of the Turkish Republic.
Along the promenade, you’ll notice a lot of fishermen. This is a common scene all up and down the Bosporus. There’s something idyllic about patiently waiting for a nibble while looking across to another continent as a ferry shuffles past.
As you walk along the promenade dodging fishing poles and the occasional bicycle, you can’t help but notice the breathtaking views of the Bosporus across to the European side. Several important landmarks and areas can easily be spotted.
At the south end of the promenade is the ticket booth for the Maiden’s Tower. In the past, there were a few spots serving nargile, tea (çay), and Turkish coffee (Türk kahvesi) on some benches built along the steps. It would get crowded and service could be slow on a Sunday, but it was a great setting right on the Bosporus. When I visited in October 2023, the steps were a construction zone. I’ll update when I have information if the tea spots will reopen or not. My guess is no.
Ayazma Mosque
Standing on a hill proudly above the Bosporus is the Ayazma Mosque (Ayazma Camii). It was built by Sultan Mustafa III between 1758 and 1760 in memory of his mother, Mihrişah Kadın (d. 1732), and his brother, Şehzade Süleyman. The architect was Mehmed Tahir Ağa (d. 1788).
I like the peaceful garden surrounding the mosque and its elaborate stone work, but I have never been fortunate enough to enter. It was either closed or undergoing a much needed restoration. Keep an eye out for the birdhouses built into the mosque’s façade.
Ottoman Homes
In the streets around the Ayazma Mosque, it’s possible to encounter several old wooden Ottoman home. Some are run down and in need of repair while others have been nicely restored.
Ayşe Sultan Fountain
A few blocks inland from the Ayazma Mosque is the Ayşe Sultan Fountain (Ayşe Sultan Çeşmesi). It was built in 1598 and was made of solid marble.
Kaptan Pasha Mosque
Working through the neighborhood is the Kaptan Pasha Mosque (Kaptan Paşa Camii). It was originally built in 1499 by Hamza Fakih Efendi and rebuilt by Kaptan-ı Derya Kaymak Mustafa Pasha from 1728 to 1729. The mosque burned down in 1890 and was rebuilt the same year by Şerife Nefise Hanım. It’s on a square plan and topped by a single dome. I haven’t had a chance to enter.
Rum Mehmed Pasha Mosque
Perched on a hill just above Şemsi Pasha Mosque is the Rum Mehmed Pasha Mosque (Rum Mehmet Paşa Camii). It was built between 1469 and 1471 for Rum Mehmed Pasha (d. 1470), a Grand Vizier of Greek descent under Mehmed the Conqueror. Rum Mehmed Pasha was executed by drowning in 1470 and is buried in a tomb next to the mosque. The mosque was restored in 1953.
Istanbul Kite Museum
Finally, hidden down one of the back streets a few blocks from Üsküdar Square is the Istanbul Kite Museum (İstanbul Uçurtma Müzesi). This kid-friendly museum was founded in 2005 by Mehmet Naci Aköz. It displays some of the 2,500 kites and accessories he collected from 33 countries on six continents. In addition to the museum, there’s also the Kite School (Uçurtma Atölyesi). The museum is open daily except Sundays and reservations are required. Admission is free (as of September 2024).
Üsküdar Markets
Once you get your fill of fresh air and stunning Bosporus scenery on the shoreline it’s time to head inland and visit the markets of Üsküdar. Follow the main road inland from Üsküdar Square and you’ll find a bustling area full of colors, sounds, smells, and unique flavors (ask for samples!). It’s also a great place for people watching.
My advice is to get lost in the maze of streets that make up the markets. You never know what you’ll find! Much of it will be fruits, vegetables, fish, meat, and spices, but there are also clothing stores, antique shops, music stores, cafés, and restaurants. Again, ask for samples, try the snacks from the street vendors, and take in all the sights, sounds, and smells.
Most of the photos on this post come from an afternoon wandering around these streets and alleys with a student one day. It turned out to be one of the most memorable days I spent in Istanbul.
Üsküdar Fishermen’s Market
The first market you’ll come to will most likely be the Üsküdar Fishermen’s Market (Üsküdar Balıkçılar Çarşısı). This long corridor is full of stalls selling the fresh catch of the day from the Bosporus, Marmara Sea, and Black Sea.
Fountain
Just outside the Fishermen’s Market is an attractive fountain built by the local government in 2013. The fountain faces Üsküdar Square.
Mimar Sinan Market
Another market is the Mimar Sinan Market (Mimar Sinan Çarşısı). It was the last hamam ever built by Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan (1490-1588) in 1583. It was commissioned by Nurbanu Sultan (1525-1583), the mother of Murad III and the wife of Selim II.
The hamam closed in 1917 and all the marble inside was removed and sold. It was purchased by Mehmet Korkut Bey from Komotini, Greece, in 1932. He used it as a carpentry workshop, but rebuilt it as a market in 1962. Today, there are shops inside the market and a square out front full of people. There are often children playing around the fountain while the adults sit on benches and chat away.
Kara Davud Pasha Mosque
Just behind the Mimar Sinan Market is the Kara Davud Pasha Mosque (Kara Davud Paşa Camii). The exact construction date is unknown. It fell into ruins and was repaired in 1817. The mosque was repaired twice more in the 19th century after fires, and again from 1963 to 1966.
Sheikh Mustafa Devati Mosque
The somewhat hidden Sheikh Mustafa Devati Mosque (Şeyh Mustafa Devati Camii) sits just north of the market area. It was built between 1645 and 1650 by Mustafa Devati (d. 1660), an Ottoman Jelveti sheikh.
The tomb of Mustafa Devati (Şeyh Mustafa Devati Türbesi) sits nearby. It was built in 1657 and was renovated by Fatma Zehra Hanım in 1866. There’s a small Ottoman cemetery on the grounds as well.
Ahmediye Mosque
The Ahmediye Mosque (Ahmediye Camii) is a few blocks south of the Kara Davud Pasha Mosque. It was built between 1721 and 1722 by Emin Ahmed Ağa, an Ottoman shipyard chief. It was repaired in 1861, 1885, and 1965. The mosque was also under restoration when I passed by during my last visit in October 2018.
Paşalimanı
Just a five minute walk north of Üsküdar Square is a small area called Paşalimanı. You’ll find a few seaside mansions (yalılar), a nice park along the Bosporus with a small marina, and a city-run café right on the edge of the Bosporus.
Beylik Flour Mill
The Beylik Flour Mill (Beylik Un Değirmeni) is a ruined building along the main road. It was founded in 1858 and had 5 floors. The building was repaired in 1910 and expanded to increase its capacity. There were 24 millstones in its heyday.
Istanbul State Opera and Ballet
You will also find a large building that has served as the Istanbul State Opera and Ballet (İstanbul Devlet Opera ve Balesi) since 2009. It was built by Selim III between 1798 and 99 as a grain warehouse and it later became a tobacco warehouse for many years. The building fell into ruin but was restored and served as a museum for a short time.
Fethi Pasha Preserve
The Fethi Pasha Preserve (Fethi Paşa Korusu), a large forested park, is located in Paşalimanı. There’s a restaurant inside the park and the views of the Bosporus are amazing.
Where to Eat in Üsküdar
I haven’t really spent much time eating in Üsküdar, but I’ve had decent experiences at the few places I’ve visited.
Zeynel Gülkardeşler Kebap Salonu
If you’re at Üsküdar Square, check out Zeynel Gülkardeşler Kebap Salonu. They have a wide variety of traditional Turkish dishes. I tried the İskender kebab which is one of the house specialties, and was not disappointed.
Filizler Köftecisi
Along the Üsküdar shoreline is a famous köfte restaurant that also has an amazing breakfast. Filizler Köftecisi has two levels with outdoor seating and spectacular views. The food and service are both excellent. I highly recommend it.
