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The Beşiktaş neighborhood is the heart of the Beşiktaş district of Istanbul. It’s a busy transportation hub with a few museums in the area. There are also some minor historic attractions.
Getting to Beşiktaş
Beşiktaş is a major transportation hub and very easy to get to from many parts of Istanbul. There’s a bus terminal with buses heading north along the Bosporus and to other parts of the Beşiktaş district. A metro station on the M7 line between Kabataş and Mahmutbey is currently under construction and expected to open sometime in 2024 (as of March 2024).
Many people head to Beşiktaş to catch ferries to different parts of Istanbul. Istanbul City Ferry Lines (İstanbul Şehir Hatları) can get you to Kadıköy. Dentur ferries head to Üsküdar, Kadıköy, and the Princes’ Islands.
Barbaros Park
Barbaros Park (Barbaros Parkı) lies at the busiest intersection in Beşiktaş and likely where you’ll arrive. It’s a wide open concrete space where celebrations and public concerts often take place.
The park is scattered with old Ottoman cannons and the Istanbul Naval Museum is situated on the west side. The waterfront section of the park is a popular place to sit and enjoy the scenery on the Bosporus.
Barbaros Hayreddin Pasha Monument
In the center of the park is a monument to Barbaros Hayreddin Pasha (1478-1546), also known as Barbarossa. He was born in Lesbos to an Albanian father and Greek mother and rose to become admiral of the Ottoman Navy. His fleet used to assemble near the ferry terminal and his victories secured Ottoman dominance over the Mediterranean in the 16th century.
Tomb of Barbaros Hayreddin Pasha
The tomb of Barbaros Hayreddin Pasha sits in an area fenced off from the rest of the park. It’s typically open daily except Mondays from 10am to noon and 2pm to 4pm.
The tomb was built in 1541 by legendary Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan (1490-1588) and still retains its original features. It’s surrounded by a small Ottoman cemetery.
Inside the tomb are four burials including Barbaros Hayreddin Pasha. First, right inside the entrance is the tomb of Cafer Pasha, who served as admiral from 1606 to 1608. To the left of Barbaros Hayreddin Pasha are his wife and his son, Hasan Pasha (1500-1572).
Beşiktaş Pier
Beşiktaş Pier (Beşiktaş İskelesi), sitting on the Bosporus side of Barbaros Park, is a historic building used by Istanbul City Ferry Lines. It was built in the First National architectural style by Ottoman architect Ali Talat Bey (1869-1922) in 1913.
Sinan Pasha Mosque
Heading inland, across the street from Barbaros Park, is the Sinan Pasha Mosque (Sinan Paşa Camii). It was built by Mimar Sinan for Ottoman admiral Sinan Pasha (d. 1554). Construction started in 1554 and it was completed by 1556.
The courtyard of the mosque has a rectangular ablutions fountain (şadırvan). The entrance used to have a double portico but it was incorporated into the prayer hall in 1749.
The prayer hall is absolutely stunning. It underwent a long restoration in the 2010s and I finally had the opportunity to visit in October 2018. The minbar is made of white marble, and the dome is 12.6 meters (41 feet) in diameter.
Tomb of Neccarzade Mustafa
Just off the courtyard of the mosque is the tomb of Neccarzade Mustafa (Neccarzade Mustafa Türbesi). Neccarzade Mustafa (1679-1746) was a Sufi poet and calligrapher.
Nativity of the Panagia Greek Orthodox Church
Finally, just east of Barbaros Park heading towards Çırağan Palace, is the Nativity of the Panagia Greek Orthodox Church (Γενέθλιόν της Θεοτόκου Παλαιοῦ Μπάνιου Διπλοκιονίου / Cihanuma Meryem Ana Rum Kilisesi). It’s hidden away behind some storefronts. The church was probably last renovated in 1864. According to tradition, slaves who worked in the naval dockyards and rowed the galleys would attend services there.
Çarşı
Çarşı is the historic center of Beşiktaş. It’s located a short walk inland from Barbaros Park. Çarşı translates to market, which sums up the majority of the activity in the area. The streets are full of all kinds of retail shops, restaurants, kebab shops, bars, tea gardens, and cafés. It’s a great place to mix in with the locals.
In the heart of Çarşı is a square with a sculpture of a black eagle. This is significant because Beşiktaş football club’s supporter group is called Çarşı and the official symbol is the black eagle.
Beşiktaş Fish Market
One of the interesting things to do is take a walk through the Beşiktaş Fish Market (Beşiktaş Balık Pazarı). Locals come to this covered market to buy all kinds of fish caught in the Bosporus, Black Sea, and Marmara Sea.
Church of the Dormition of the Virgin
Near the market is the Church of the Dormition of the Virgin (Κοίμησις τῆς Θεοτόκου Διπλοκιονίου / Panayia Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi), a Greek Orthodox church that dates back to the late 17th century. It was rebuilt in 1730 and again in 1833. The church and its courtyard sit behind high enclosure walls.
Surp Asdvadzadzin Armenian Church
To the north of the area are two more religious buildings. First is Surp Asdvadzadzin Armenian Church (Surp Asdvadzadzin Ermeni Kilisesi). It replaced a chapel originally built in 1623 but the construction date is unknown. The church was demolished by Ottoman authorities in 1759 on the grounds it was expanded without permission. It was rebuilt out of wood in the early 19th century.
The current church dates back to 1838. It was designed by Ottoman Armenian architect Garabet Balyan (1800-1866). The church was renovated in 1987 and again in 2013.
Abbasağa Mosque
On the next block over is the Abbasağa Mosque (Abbasağa Cami). It was built in 1655 by Abbas Ağa and repaired during the reign of Mahmud II.
Abbasağa Park
Finally, a block north of both the church and the mosque is Abbasağa Park (Abbasağa Parkı). It’s a pleasant place to relax. A fountain sits near the southern entrance.
Inside the park are a few statues, a small amphitheater, and a basketball court. The statues are dedicated to people who fought to bring more freedom to Turkey.
Where to Eat in Beşiktaş
I’ve visited some decent restaurants around Barbaros Park and Çarşı. There are better choices in neighborhoods further north along the Bosporus.
Meşhur Beşiktaş Koftecisi
In the Çarşı area I sat down for a quick meal at Meşhur Beşiktaş Koftecisi. It’s a hole-in-the-wall specializing in the most famous köfte (meatballs) in Beşiktaş.
Recep Parlaöz, better known as Recep Baba, opened a pastry shop in 1963 and switched to köfte in 1966. The rest is history. The köfte shop moved to its current location in 1974. My meal was simple, quick, and absolutely delicious.
Dürümce
Off Barbaros Park near Beşiktaş Pier is Dürümce. They have locations all over the city and serve up your typical kebabs and dürüm wraps. I was looking for a decent meal before jumping on the ferry and this place seemed to fit the bill.
I sat down and ordered an Adana dürüm. My meal took forever to come out but it was good. Getting the bill took longer than getting the food, then I had to wait at least 10 minutes to get my change. Attention was terrible throughout.
