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The Samaria Gorge is a major tourist attraction in the White Mountains of Crete and one of the best hikes in Greece.
Introduction to the Samaria Gorge
The Samaria Gorge (Φαράγγι Σαμαριάς) is located in southwest Crete. It sits within the National Park of Samaria, which is part of the UNESCO World Network of Biosphere Reserves. The park was founded in 1962 mostly as a reserve for the kri-kri, a rare Cretan goat.
The gorge itself is falsely billed as the longest in Europe at 18 kilometers long. It’s actually 16 kilometers long and second to the Verdon Gorge in France, which is about 25 kilometers long.
Visiting the Samaria Gorge
The National Park of Samaria is open from May 1 through October 31. There are two entrances. One is a few kilometers from the village of Omalos to the north and the other is a few kilometers from Agia Roumeli to the south. Omalos is accessible by road while Agia Roumeli is only accessible by boat.
Visitors can enter the park at around 7am but must be out by 6pm. Admission is 5€ per person and free for children under 15 (as of March 2024). Tickets can be purchased at either entrance in cash or credit, or online in advance. You must hold on to your ticket and hand it in at the end of the hike.
Getting to the Samaria Gorge
If you’re not taking a guided tour, spending the day at the Samaria Gorge takes some planning.
Public Transportation from Chania
There are buses from the KTEL station at Chania leaving a few times early in the morning. They take about an hour and drop you off at the Omalos entrance. At the end of the hike, you take a ferry from Agia Roumeli to either Hora Sfakion or Sougia at 5:30pm and catch a public bus back to Chania. It’s easier to find a bus at Hora Sfakion, so that’s probably your best bet. You can check the current bus schedule and rates on the official KTEL website and get ferry information on the Anendyk website.
Hiring Private Transportation
A convenient and hassle-free way to get to the gorge is to hire a private ride. Taxis are available in Chania and can be arranged by your accommodation.
We contacted Manu at Fit in Crete and arranged for him to get us to and from the park. He charges 190€ to transport up to 8 people to the Omalos entrance and pick them up in Paleochora, which is the ferry stop after Sougia. Manu was very helpful in our case, when the Hellenic Coast Guard shut down all the ferries because of rough seas after our hike, arranging for a hotel in Agia Roumeli and trying to find a private boat to get us out. That’s a whole other story for another day! Anyway, if this is a good option for you, I highly recommend getting in touch with Manu.
With a Rental Car
If you have a rental car, you can leave your car at the Omalos entrance, hike down, take the ferry to Sougia, and get a ride back to your car. Conversely, you can leave your car at Omalos, get a ride to Sougia to catch the ferry to Agia Roumeli, spend the night, hike up the gorge to Omalos, and be on your way at the end.
For this option, you’ll have to arrange the ride ahead of time. I recommend Sougia Taxi, who can get you from Sougia to Omalos or beyond. In our case, we didn’t leave our car at Omalos, but a very friendly driver picked us up in Sougia and drove us back to Chania for a very fair price.
How to Hike the Samaria Gorge
Hiking the Samaria Gorge makes for a long and sometimes difficult day but extremely rewarding in the end. There are a few options on how to attack the trail which I’ve included below. If you start from Omalos, you’ll have a few kilometers of steep downhill before the trail eventually begins to level. If you start from Agia Roumeli, you’ll finish with a steep uphill.
How should you hike the gorge? Should you take a tour or do it on your own? Should you hike the conventional route going downhill or “backwards” going uphill? It’s all up to your preferences and access to transportation.
Option #1: Take a Tour
The easiest way to hike the gorge is to join a tour. They depart from Chania, Rethymno, and Heraklion, typically arriving at the Omalos entrance between 7:30am and 8am. After finishing the hike at Agia Roumeli, you’ll have some free time to have a late lunch or swim in the Libyan Sea. At 5:30pm, the guide gets everyone on a ferry heading to either Hora Sfakion or Sougia. When the ferry arrives at its destination, you catch the bus back to your starting point. Typically, these tours charge for bus transportation only and don’t include the entrance fees or ferry tickets.
Option #2: Hike Down from Omalos
The second option, which is what we did, is to do the hike on your own from Omalos. We started at the top, hiked the steep downhill at the beginning, and finished at Agia Roumeli. We took a small fishing boat (not a ferry) to Sougia and went back to Chania from there.
Option #3: Hike Up from Agia Roumeli
This option involves an extra day starting with an overnight at Agia Roumeli. You have to take the ferry to Agia Roumeli, where you can relax for the night. In the morning, you start hiking up the gorge. At about the halfway point, since most of the hikers head down from Omalos, you’ll have the heavy crowds behind you. The last few kilometers will be a steep uphill to the Omalos entrance. This route is preferable if you have knee problems.
Option #4: Do Part of the Hike
If you start late or don’t want to hike the entire Samaria Gorge, you can do just a part of it. You can start at either entrance, walk to at most the halfway point, and head back the way you came. From Agia Roumeli, it’ll be mostly flat but still challenging at times. From Omalos, keep in mind you’ll have a few kilometers of steep downhill at the beginning followed by a few kilometers of steep uphill on the way back.
Option #5: Hike Both Ways
Yes, it sounds crazy, but we met some visitors doing it this way. They arrived at Omalos, hiked down to Agia Roumeli, spent the night, and hiked back up the next morning. If it were me, I would have to spend a full day and an extra night doing nothing at Agia Roumeli before hiking back up.
What to Expect While Hiking the Samaria Gorge
The Samaria Gorge is a one-way hike. The hike through the park itself is 13 kilometers long with an extra 3 kilometers between the park gates and the village of Agia Roumeli. It’s moderate with a few difficult sections. The terrain is very rocky and uneven at times. There are also several river crossings, sometimes on bridges and other times hopping onto rocks.
At the entrance is a small museum about the history and nature of the Samaria Gorge. There’s also a café where you can get a drink, snacks, walking sticks, souvenirs, and more. The museum was closed when we arrived and we didn’t stop into the café.
The path is well-maintained and easy to follow. There are markers at every kilometer and maps at the rest stations along the way. There are no facilities along the route other than toilets, trash bins, and filling stations. Some rest areas have picnic tables and benches.
Rangers are stationed along the route and communicate by radio. They’re wonderful people and we found all of them to be upbeat and helpful. They were very encouraging to the members of my group who were having a difficult time and even hiked back to check on them.
Depending on your level of fitness, it can take anywhere from three to eight hours to complete. Most people finish the hike in about six hours, allowing time for rest and enjoying the scenery. Keep in mind it can get crowded. An average of 800 people hike the gorge every day and there are some days when over 2,000 people are hiking.
How to Prepare for the Samaria Gorge
For a long and difficult hike like this one, it’s very important to be prepared.
What to Wear
- Wear hiking boots with good traction and support, and thick socks. Regular shoes aren’t good enough. Much of the path is uneven and rocky. On the downhill part, it can be slippery. On the flat part, you might have to scramble over some pretty big rocks. There are also a few places you have to cross over a creek.
- Wear sunscreen and take a hat. Although most of the hike is in the shade, there are some spots where you’ll be exposed to the sun.
What to Pack
- Take a backpack with plenty of snacks and some water. One bottle is enough. There are filling stations along the way dispensing natural spring water.
- Pack swimwear and flip flops. At the end of the hike in Agia Roumeli, you’ll have the chance to take a refreshing dip in the Libyan Sea.
- Hiking sticks might be helpful. You can take your own, but they’re usually available for purchase at the entrance.
Tips for the Hike
- Know your limits. Even if you’re relatively fit, this is NOT an easy walk and anyone who says that isn’t being honest. Some people we spoke to said the hike is easy and anyone could do it while others said they had a very hard time. The difficulty is somewhere in between.
- If you’re not used to hiking long distances, get active for the last couple weeks before your trip. I recommend walking at least two miles a day. Throwing in some uphill and downhill is a good idea as well.
- Start early and take your time! The earlier you start, the less rushed you’ll feel to make it to the end, especially if you have to catch a ferry at Agia Roumeli. This also gives you more time to rest, take photos, and enjoy the incredible scenery along the way.
- If you’re starting early at Omalos, you might want to take a jacket. It can be chilly even in the middle of summer. I wore a light jacket and took it off about an hour into the hike as it warmed up.
- Be courteous to other hikers!
Safety and Park Rules
- If you have knee or heart problems, you might want to reconsider. I also don’t think the hike is appropriate for small children.
- Try not to rest for more than 20 or 30 minutes. The last thing you want is muscle stiffness.
- Always watch where you’re going. We saw a few hikers tripping and falling over stones because they weren’t paying attention. Thankfully, they didn’t injure themselves but it could have been worse.
- If you’re having trouble or feeling ill, let a ranger know immediately.
- It’s forbidden to litter, remove flora or fauna from the park, disturb wildlife, camp, swim in the rivers and streams, drink alcohol, annoy other hikers, or set fires.
- Don’t deviate from the path.
- When you see the signs for falling rocks, keep moving! Don’t rest under cliffs for the same reason.
- Stay quiet and don’t shout. This increases the risk of falling rocks and besides, it’s annoying to other hikers.
The Samaria Gorge Hike
I’ll describe the hike below according to my experience. We hiked the entire gorge from the Omalos entrance to Agia Roumeli.
Xyloskalo to Neroutsiko (1,700 meters)
The hike at the Omalos entrance starts at Xyloskalo at an elevation of 1,250 meters (4,100 feet). The name means “wooden staircase” and comes from the fact that locals living in the gorge built a staircase to get in and out. Today, it’s a series of steep switchbacks paved with uneven stone. It can get a little slippery so you have to be very careful.
Get used to the descent – the path is quite steep for the first few kilometers. This section is also where you’ll see the first “falling rock” signs.
The beauty of the gorge is evident as soon as you start hiking. We were fortunate to see the morning sun hitting the mountains, which created a spectacular scene.
After a little while you’ll come to a section where you can rest. There’s an interpretive panel about the Calabrian pines that grow naturally in the Samaria Gorge. Locals used the pines for timber and firewood and collected the resin as well. You can look out from this point and see several pines.
Further down the trail you’ll finally hit your first milestone at Kilometer 1. The trail is still quite rocky and steep at this point but not as steep as the beginning. Eventually, you’ll come to the first official rest station, Neroutsiko.
Neroutsiko to Riza Sykias (1,100 meters)
Station A is Neroutsiko. At Neroutsiko, you can fill up your water bottle from the spring and have a nice rest. You’ve walked 1,700 meters to this point. When you’re ready to hit the trail, it’s more of the same – switchbacks and rocky terrain. You’ll soon pass Kilometer 2.
The trail continues for another 800 meters, leveling out a bit, until Station B, Riza Sykias. It’s at the 2.8 kilometer mark.
Riza Sykias to Agios Nikolaos (900 meters)
Riza Sykias is a nice place to rest with a picnic table and spring. From there, it’s only 900 meters to Station C. Along this part of the trail, you’ll pass some large boulders as the path evens out a bit more.
Soon after passing Kilometer 3, we walked through a dry river bed a few times before finally seeing the first water running through the Samaria Gorge. We crossed over the small creek and continued to the Station C, Agios Nikolaos.
Agios Nikolaos to Vrysi (900 meters)
Once you reach Agios Nikolaos, you’ve hiked 3.7 kilometers. This is a great place to stop and take a break, with picnic tables, a spring, toilets, and a ranger station. There are also a couple historic sites and several tall cypress trees. Interpretive panels provide information about the cypresses and flowers in the gorge as well as the historic sites at Agios Nikolaos.
One of the historic sites is the small Chapel of St. Nicholas. It’s believed to have been built atop an ancient shrine dedicated to Apollo or Diana. The shrine dates to the 6th century BC and was discovered in 1991. Offerings were discovered during excavations. Unfortunately, I couldn’t enter the chapel because it was under restoration.
After having a rest, we continued down the trail. We passed Kilometer 4 and had to cross the creek a few times. The trail is still rocky but fairly level until reaching Station D, Vrysi.
Vrysi to Prinari (1,300 meters)
Vrysi is another good place to stop and fill up your water bottle. It’s a small area with a spring and a few places to sit and rest.
The trail from Vrysi to the Station E, Prinari, was more of the same and a bit more level. The most exciting thing we saw was some rusted out machinery. I missed Kilometer 5 somewhere along the way.
Prinari to Samaria (1,200 meters)
Prinari is a small rest station. We didn’t stop and continued along the trail. It was much easier with more pebbles and fewer large stones. Only 100 meters later, we hit Kilometer 6.
After walking on one of the easiest sections of the trail, we reached an area with rock formations and an interpretive panel about the medicinal and aromatic plants at Samaria Gorge. A few steps away we saw a sign indicating we were only 350 meters away from our next stop, the village of Samaria.
The trail went back to a few switchbacks. At the bottom, we crossed a riverbed full of beautiful flowering plants. Shortly after, the trail flattened out and the ruins of the old village of Samaria came into view.
We followed the trail until we had to cross a bridge to get to the ruins. The scenery is incredible in every direction. Finally, we made it to Station F, Samaria. We were more than halfway through the hike having completed 7,100 meters.
Samaria to Nero tis Perdikas (1,100 meters)
The village of Samaria was inhabited until the national park was created in 1962. In fact, the Samaria Gorge has been inhabited since prehistoric times. In addition to the village, there are a handful of Byzantine churches and two Venetian castles. During the Greek Revolution, World War II, and other wars fought in Crete, freedom fighters used the gorge for shelter. After the creation of the national park, the villagers were forced to relocate. Only a few ruined buildings and foundations are left in the village.
Today, the village of Samaria is used as a ranger station. There’s a spring to fill up your water bottles, and you might be able to spot the kri-kri, which is a species of goat and the largest wild animal in Crete. Males have long horns and black beards while females are shorter and have smaller horns. The kri-kri are protected under the Bern Convention.
To get back on the trail, you have to cross the bridge again and turn left. It’s flat with small stones, eventually passing the Church of Osia Maria. We were running a little behind schedule at this point so we didn’t stop to explore.
The trail continues mostly flat and on pebbles and small stones. It follows the riverbed with a crossing or two, pops into the forest, and continues along the riverbed before reaching Nero tis Perdikas.
Nero tis Perdikas to Christos (2,200 meters)
Nero tis Perdikas is Station G on the map. It’s a small rest area with a spring and benches at Kilometer 8. We didn’t stick around too long there.
After leaving Perdikas, the rest of the hike is on the riverbed itself. It gets a little tougher having to maneuver around larger stones, but it’s also one of the most scenic parts of the gorge. The gorge really begins to narrow at this point.
Continuing along the trail, you pass Kilometers 9 and 10 before having to cross the river several times on small wooden bridges. The gorge narrows for a bit more then opens up again.
From there, you cross the river again once or twice. The trail goes up on a rocky ridge for a short while and you pass Kilometer 11. A few minutes later, you’ll reach Christos, which is Station H.
Christos to Agia Roumeli Exit (2,800 meters)
At Christos, you’ll find the last spring as well as a ranger station and a small chapel. There are also toilets and plenty of picnic tables to stop and rest. Leaving Christos is the longest stretch between stations at 2,800 meters, but the next station is the exit at Agia Roumeli.
Soon after leaving Christos, you’ll reach the Gates, which is the most popular feature of Samaria Gorge. The Gates, incorrectly known as the Iron Gates, are the narrowest part of the gorge. At this point, the gorge is only 4 meters (13 feet) and almost 300 meters (980 feet) high.
After the Gates, the gorge widens but you still have a little over two kilometers to hike. You’ll pass Kilometer 12, cross the river some more over small wooden bridges, then across two large bridges. Then, it’s more hiking along the riverbed until you reach the Agia Roumeli exit.
Agia Roumeli Exit to Agia Roumeli (2,700 meters)
The Agia Roumeli exit is a sight for sore eyes (and legs). Once you arrive, you hand your ticket stub to the ranger and you can celebrate completing an amazing hike!
From there, you have to walk another 2,700 meters to Agia Roumeli, or if you’re lucky a minibus will be waiting for you. You pay a small fee to ride the bus into town and save what energy you have left.
At Agia Roumeli, you’ll find plenty of tavernas serving traditional Greek food, or if you prefer you can take a dip in the Libyan Sea and cool off. If you’re returning to Chania, the ferry terminal is right in the middle of town. If not, you can stay at one of the hotels and take in the peaceful atmosphere of the village.
My Thoughts on the Samaria Gorge Hike
The hike is a challenging but an incredible time spent at one of the most beautiful places in Europe. I was thrilled to have had the chance to visit the gorge and am anxious to go back and see it again. It’s one of the few hikes in the world that I would repeat in a heartbeat.
