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Melanes (Μέλανες) is a village in Naxos, Greece, about 8 kilometers southeast of Naxos Town. The landscape around the village is dotted with minor but nonetheless important archaeological sites.
I didn’t visit the village itself other than driving through on the way to one of the sites. Hopefully I’ll be able to check it out next time I’m in Naxos.
Melanes Archaeological Sites
First of all, there are a handful of ancient archaeological sites in a small area just east of Melanes. The University of Athens studied and enhanced the sites between 2000 and 2006. They’re situated around a parking area with an information center nearby. The information center was closed when I visited, but on the outer wall I found a map of the area. In addition, there’s a trail to Melanes that takes about 35 minutes to complete. I plan to hike it on my next trip to Naxos.
Panagia Fleriotissa
The small Church of Panagia Fleriotissa sits across from the information center. It was closed but I was able to peek inside through the window on the door.
Aqueduct Tunnel
You’ll most likely see the sign for an ancient aqueduct tunnel while driving to the area. The entrance and exit are accessible via trails on either side of the road. You can also reach it by continuing along the path to the information center.
Tunnel Entrance
On the south side of the road is the trail to the tunnel entrance. It’s a short walk downhill leading to a gate that you must close after passing through. On the other side of the gate is a stone structure with a roof.
The structure protects the well-preserved entrance shaft to a Roman period aqueduct tunnel. It’s 220 meters long with a height ranging between 1.4 and 1.6 meters in different sections.
The original aqueduct, which is visible in other parts of the area, was a clay pipe constructed in the 6th century BC under the tyrant Lygdamis. It was about 11 kilometers in length and probably ended somewhere in the Kastro district.
In the 1st century BC, the Romans replaced it with a new system consisting of “a built-in groove coated with hydraulic mortar and covered with stone slabs”. It ended at a fountain in the market area and operated until the 8th century.
Tunnel Exit
A similar path on the north side of the road leads to the tunnel exit. It also passes through a gate and leads slightly downhill.
This shaft was built for maintenance and cleaning of the tunnel and to clear the water of sediment. The aqueduct continues to the north for another 20 meters after the shaft as a wide underground water main. After that, the course narrows into a smaller underground main.
Sanctuary of the Springs
The Sanctuary of the Springs is up a short paved path from the parking lot. The path becomes stone before the entrance to the site.
The Sanctuary of the Springs was discovered in 1996 within an olive grove. It’s located on a slope north of a spring where the aqueduct began and was excavated from 2003 to 2006. The sanctuary was used to worship a goddess of euphoria. Due to the proximity of marble quarries, the heroes Otus and Ephialtes, who were powerful enough to move marble, were also likely worshipped there. It functioned until the end of Antiquity.
Sanctuary Buildings at the Sanctuary of the Springs
The earliest sanctuary building, the Oikos, dates to the late 8th century BC (Geometric period). It was used to accept offerings. A second larger Oikos was constructed next to it in the 3rd quarter of the 7th century BC (Archaic period). The new building began to house the main cult while the older building served an auxiliary purpose, probably for the preparation of ritual meals. In addition, the marble threshold of the new building is the earliest example of a marble doorway. This breakthrough developed into one of the most important elements of Ionian architecture.
Periboloi at the Sanctuary of the Springs
West of the two sanctuary buildings are two open spaces identified as periboloi. They measure roughly 3.5 x 4 meters and were created in the 7th century BC. The periboloi were used for burnt sacrifices and contained altars and hearths in the corners. Worshippers would place ashes and the remains of offerings in shallow pits, which were covered by thin slabs of rock or clay vase bases. The periboloi were used until the middle of the 6th century BC, when their entrances were sealed.
Small Temple at the Sanctuary of the Springs
A small temple measuring 3.4 x 4.4 meters was added in the middle of the 6th century BC. It was made of marble and was a miniature version of a monumental temple. A votive sculpture stood atop a marble base inside.
Workshop at the Sanctuary of the Springs
East of the north entrance, a building identified as a workshop has been discovered. It dates to the 7th century BC and was likely involved in the production of objects for the sanctuary, such as clay figurines and vases.
Hearth at the Sanctuary of the Springs
Near the workshop is a circular hearth. It was constructed in the first half of the 6th century BC after a natural disaster caused damage to the Geometric Oikos. The hearth was used to perform sacrifices and make offerings.
Beehives at the Sanctuary of the Springs
The area around the Sanctuary of the Springs has been used continuously since the sanctuary was built. There’s still an olive grove as well as a threshing floor, indicating the cultivation of grains. Traditional beehives were created in the early 20th century, much like the hives used in Antiquity.
Kouroi of Melanes
Melanes is home to two incredible kouroi statues. A kouros is a statue depicting a young nude male. Both are a short walk from the parking lot of the archaeological area. Follow the path south of the parking lot, which curves to the left. You’ll see a sign pointing to a stone path leading to the statues. The Kouros of Flerio is only a few minutes from the parking lot. The Kouros of Farangi is further away and uphill, but worth the effort to get to.
Kouros of Flerio
Eventually there’s a fork in the path. Follow it to the right and you’ll come to a gate. Inside the gate is the Kouros of Flerio.
The Kouros of Flerio is 5.5 meters in height and dated to around 570 BC. Sculptures and architectural were often abandoned in quarries or during transfer due to damage, the discovery of flaws in the marble, the cancellation of orders, or political events. This particular kouros is unfinished and was left in place because its right leg was broken during transfer.
Ancient Quarry
Head back to the main path and follow the sign to the Kouros of Farangi. Along the way, you’ll pass an ancient quarry. Marble was extracted in this area starting around 700 BC.
Looking across to the mountains, you’ll spot a quarry that was opened in the 1960s. That project was abandoned due to its proximity to the ancient quarries.
Kouros of Farangi
Continue on the path past the quarry. It gets a bit steeper but you’ll start getting some beautiful views of the surrounding landscape. At the end of the path, you’ll find the Kouros of Farangi through a small gate.
The Kouros of Farangi would have been about 5.5 meters high, but only 3.8 meters survives today. It was abandoned because the legs broke during transfer. The kouros was in an advanced stage of work, but the face and calves have worn away over time. It’s dated to the early second quarter of the 6th century BC.
Nearby the kouros is the base containing the feet of the statue. It’s been partially reconstructed. There are also a few scattered architectural fragments.
Ruins of Kalamitsia
A short drive south of the village are the ruins of Kalamitsia, which was a Jesuit retreat built between 1679 and 1681. The land for the retreat was purchased from the Theoligitis family in 1678 by French Jesuit abbot Robert Saulger (1637-1709). On the site at the time were the ruins of an older Venetian palace called Kalamitzia.
Saulger built a luxurious two-story building in the French Baroque style. The retreat was both admired and criticized as the “Jesuit Palace”. Critics believed it was too lavish for monks who were supposed to live a life of austerity. Auxiliary structures include a dovecote, a stable, an olive mill, and cisterns. The gardens and orchards of the retreat spread all the way to Melanes.
The Jesuits owned the property until their dissolution in 1773. The Lazarists took over and left in 1878. In 1891, the Salesians acquired the property and stayed until 1927. A long court battle between the Association of the Holy Cross and the Catholic Church over ownership of the property ensued, lasting from 1929 to 1937. The Association of the Holy Cross won the case.
Today, the land is owned by the state while the foundation owns the buildings. There are plans to restore it and convert it to a tourist attraction (as of June 2023).
Visiting Kalamitsia
There’s a very narrow unpaved road leading down to the ruins. I took a basic rental car down without a problem. At the end of the road there’s space to park and turn around. You can explore the buildings but be very careful, as there are some loose stones and the walls are crumbling. There’s no information at the site.
Modern Quarries
Finally, east of Melanes along the road leading to the villages of Moni and Halki, you can stop to see the modern marble quarries. There are also great views towards Naxos Town.
