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Naxos Town is the main settlement and capital of the island of Naxos, Greece. It contains some of the most important cultural and historic sites on the island. It’s also a transportation hub and is full of restaurants, shopping, and hotels.
Waterfront in Naxos Town
First, along the waterfront, there are several restaurants lining the main road through town. Tables sit under tents facing the port, making it a great setting for a meal any time of day.
The pedestrian street one block in, Protopapadaki, is lined with more restaurants and plenty of shops as well.
Square along Naxos Town Waterfront
At the north end of the road is a small square with an elevated platform and some palms. One section of the square contains a statue of Petros Protopapadakis (1854-1922). He was from the village of Apeiranthos and served as Prime Minister of Greece from May to September 1922, when he was overthrown by a military coup.
Church of Panagia Myrtidiotissa
Just offshore in the middle of the harbor is an islet containing the small Church of Panagia Myrtidiotissa. It was built by sailors from the island of Kythira after they survived a terrible storm. A celebration is held there every September 24. During ancient times, it’s believed that the Greeks used the islet to worship Poseidon.
Beach in Naxos Town
At the northern end of the road where the causeway to the Temple of Apollo begins is a small beach. It looked fairly clean even with its proximity to the port.
Heroes Monument
Just across the street from the beach, next to the main bus terminal, is the Heroes Monument. It’s a war memorial dedicated to fallen Naxians.
Streets Leading to Kastro
Finally, behind the restaurants and shops along Protopapadaki is a maze of streets that wind up towards the Kastro district. They’re also full of restaurants and shops as well as boutique hotels.
It’s a scenic area to get lost among whitewashed buildings. You might stumble upon a nice place to stop for coffee or a meal, and there might be plenty of surprises along the way.
Kastro
Kastro is the Venetian castle at the highest point of Naxos Town. It dates back to the early 13th century and was built by Marco Sanudo (c. 1153 – c. 1227). After participating in the Fourth Crusade in 1204, he captured the island of Naxos and created the Duchy of the Archipelago. Sources date this between 1205 and 1207. The Duchy of the Archipelago was initially an independent private interest. It eventually came to be a protectorate of the Republic of Venice.
Sanudo built a fortress at the top of what is now Naxos Town, established a Latin archbishopric, and controlled the entire island by 1210. The Duchy of the Archipelago became an Ottoman suzerainty in 1537 and was completely annexed by the Ottoman Empire in 1579.
Kastro is the only castle in Naxos with a round shape. It consists of four levels. Today, several important elements of Venetian rule and influence still exist in the Kastro district.
Gates to Kastro
First of all, Kastro originally had three gates. The northern entrance is the biggest and is called the Trani Porta, which translates to Strong Gate or Great Gate depending on the source.
The southern entrance is called Paraporti. It’s considered the main entrance for visitors. The third entrance to the southeast, Piso Paraporti, has not survived.
Crispi Tower
I entered the Kastro district through the Trani Porta, passing the Crispi Tower along the way. It’s a well preserved tower built along the perimeter of the castle by Marco Sanudo (c. 1153 – c. 1227) in the early 13th century. There were originally 12 towers but the Crispi Tower is the only one that survives.
The Crispi Tower, also known as the Glezos Tower, was the private mansion of Jacopo Crispo (d. 1505). He was the illegitimate son of Guglielmo II Crispo (1390-1463), who served as the fifteenth Duke of the Archipelago.
The tower originally belonged to the Crispo family before it passed to the Barozzi family and finally the Glezos family. Above the entrance is the coat of arms of Iacopo II Barozzi (d. 1308), featuring a crown, feather, sword, and medals. The coat of arms of the Crispo family is above the interior door.
Today, the tower houses a Byzantine museum with exhibits on medieval life in Naxos. Unfortunately, the museum was under renovation when I visited. The current owners are direct descendants of the original Italian aristocratic owners and still live in the tower during the winter months.
Sanudo Tower
At the top of Kastro is the Sanudo Tower. It stands on the site of the center of the former ancient acropolis, where the tyrant Lygdamis had his seat in the 6th century BC. Part of the tower was built with ancient materials.
Catholic Cathedral
Opposite the Sanudo Tower is the Catholic Cathedral. It was originally built by Marco Sanudo in the 13th century and took its present shape in the 17th century.
The Catholic Cathedral is officially dedicated to the Presentation of the Lord. It has five aisles and three domes and combines Byzantine and Western styles. The floor is paved with 17th and 18th century memorial stones depicting the coats of arms of prominent Catholic families of Naxos.
The Baroque wooden altarpiece of the cathedral was made in 1744 by craftsmen from the island of Chios. It displays a unique double-sided 11th-12th century Byzantine icon from Asia Minor. On the front is a whole body image of the Virgin of Charity and Child while on the back is St. John the Baptist. The crucified Jesus atop the altarpiece was donated by Armenians in the 19th century.
The aisle to the left of the main altar contains an altar with a 17th century icon of Archangel Michael overthrowing the devil.
In the aisle to the right is an altar with a 17th century icon depicting St. Charles Borromeo (1538-1584), the Archbishop of Milan.
Another altar to the right is the Holy Altar of the Blessed Sacrament, decorated with a 17th century icon of the Virgin of the Rosary. Nearby is an altar with a 17th century icon of St. Rocco (traditionally 1295-1327) and a statuette of the Infant Jesus of Prague.
Roman Catholic Archdiocese
Behind the cathedral are the offices of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Naxos, Tinos, Andros, and Mykonos. It was established in the 13th century as a diocese and was elevated to an archdiocese in 1522.
The archdiocese was united with the Diocese of Tinos and Mykonos, which included Andros, on June 3, 1919. Its territory now covers most of the Aegean islands, including suffragan dioceses in Chios, Crete, and Santorini.
Church of Panagia Theoskepasti
In the alley next to the archdiocese is the Church of Panagia Theoskepasti. It’s a two-aisled church with the left aisle dedicated to St. Anastasia Pharmakolytria (Deliverer from Poisons) and the right aisle dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It’s the the oldest monument in the Kastro district, dating back to the 9th or 10th century, and the only Orthodox church.
Capuchin Monastery and Church of St. Anthony of Padua
Following the narrow path down past the Church of Panagia Theoskepasti will take you to the Capuchin Monastery, which includes the Church of St. Anthony of Padua. The Capuchins arrived in Naxos in 1628 and operated the monastery until 1956. The monastery it a two-story building with cellars, a well, and garden. In the summer, it serves as a hostel for Catholic children.
The Church of St. Anthony of Padua has a single aisle with a marble floor. There are funerary monuments for prominent families and impressive icons.
Views of Naxos Town
Around the corner from the monastery is a small open area with views over Naxos Town and the mountains. Below, it’s possible to spot the Church of Agia Kyriaki, which served as a monastery during the Ottoman period.
Jesuit School / School of Commerce
Back up to the top of Kastro and around the corner from the Sanudo Tower is the former Jesuit School, which now houses the Archaeological Museum of Naxos (see below). The Jesuit School was founded by Jesuit monks in 1628 and hosted separate wings for boys and girls. It was the first school in Greece offering access to higher education for women.
The Jesuits ran the school until either 1773 or 1782, depending on the source. It was then transferred to the Lazarists who ran it until 1887. Salesian monks took over in 1891 and converted it into the School of Commerce, also known as the French Trade School, which operated until 1927.
Greek writer Nikos Kazantzakis (1883-1957) attended the School of Commerce from 1897 to 1898. At the end of the alley in front of the school is a plaque in Greek commemorating this.
Sanudo Chapel
The set of doors to the right of the plaque open to the Sanudo Chapel, also known as Capella Casaza. It was likely built by Marco Sanudo in the early 13th century and later became the chapel of the Dukes of Naxos. The chapel is dedicated to the Immaculate Conception.
Archaeological Museum of Naxos
The School of Commerce building has housed the Archaeological Museum of Naxos since 1972. The museum houses finds from the Early Cycladic period through the Roman period. It’s open daily except Tuesdays and admission is free as the main building is undergoing renovation (as of September 2023). A small part of the collection is currently on display next door in the former Ursuline Convent (see below).
While the temporary exhibition hall is a bit cramped, there are some impressive pieces on display. This includes Cycladic figurines, pottery from the Mycenaean and Geometric periods, and Roman period glassware.
Ursuline Monastery and School
Finally, the Ursuline Monastery is located opposite the former School of Commerce. It opened in 1739 and operated under the standards of the Ursuline Convent in Paris.
The Ursuline Monastery was the first French girls’ school in Greece. It accepted enrollment from outside Naxos and had a reputation for being one of the finest schools in the Eastern Mediterranean. The school closed down in the 1970s and the property was purchased by the Greek State in 1986. Part of it operates as a cultural center and exhibition venue while another part belongs to the Catholic Church.
While visiting the temporary exhibition of the Archaeological Museum of Naxos, I was able to enter the monastery and see a few highlights, including the grand staircase. I was also able to see the marble steps that have buckled from the thousands of students walking up and down over the years.
On display at the landing is an 18th century desk used by students as well as an old map of France. A piece of the wall has also been cut away to show an ancient marble column used by Marco Sanudo to build his castle.
Grotta
Grotta (Γρόττα) is an area on the north side of Naxos Town. It covers a settlement dating to the 2nd and 1st millennium BC.
Metropolitan Cathedral
In the center of Grotta is a small square containing whitewashed churches, including the Greek Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral of Naxos, Zoodochos Pigi. The square is built atop the Metropolis Archaeological Area (see below).
Zoodochos Pigi was built between 1780 and 1787 by Metropolitan Neophytos to replace a smaller, older church. Inside is a wooden iconostasis and icons dating back to the Ottoman period. There’s also an 18th century Gospel that according to tradition was gifted by Catherine the Great of Russia. Unfortunately, the cathedral was closed every time I walked by.
Church of St. Nicholas
In the middle of the square is the Church of St. Nicholas. It’s at the same level of archaeological remains dating between the 4th through 7th century. Before the archaeological site was arranged, the church was entered down a flight of steps.
Church of Panagia Chrysopolitissa
On the west side of the square is the Church of Panagia Chrysopolitissa, which translates to Our Lady of the Golden City. It consists of four single aisled basilicas built at different periods. The oldest is dedicated to Panagia Chrysopolitissa, the protector of Naxos, and was built in the beginning of the 17th century. The other three are dedicated to the Holy Apostles, St. Spyridon, and St. Haralambos.
Panagia Eleousa
On the south side is the Church of Panagia Eleousa (Dormition of the Virgin). It has two aisles and dates to the 17th century.
Church of Taxiarchis Fountanas
Finally, east of the square is the small Church of Taxiarchis Fountanas. There’s no information listed about its history.
Metropolis Archaeological Area
Back to the square, below ground level is the entrance to the Metropolis Archaeological Area. It protects remains dating from the Mycenaean period, as early as the 13th century BC, to the Roman period and the 1st century. The site was excavated from 1982 to 1985 by the Archaeological Society of Athens, and uncovered dwellings, pottery workshops, and tombs. Admission is free (as of September 2023) and there’s lots of detailed information posted throughout.
During the Mycenaean period, Naxos Town was a flourishing Mycenaean urban center. The Mycenaeans abandoned the coastal areas just before 1000 BC, and the former inhabitants began to bury and worship important family members at the site. The burials represented the strong link with their traditional homes, and this custom lasted from the 9th century BC to the 1st century AD. The Metropolis Archaeological Area was next to the Agora of the Classical city, and sometime during the late Roman period the site was covered with private dwellings.
Mycenaean Workshop and Cemetery
Just inside the entrance is an area that includes Mycenaean workshops and part of a cemetery that was created among the ruins of Mycenaean houses. During funeral ceremonies, banquets were held and pyres were lit above the graves in honor of the dead. In the 9th century BC, the burial units were enlarged and associated with clans.
Grave
On the opposite end is a grave from the original burial period. Archaeologists discovered a grave dating from the 10th century BC and a fallen grave marker that has been replaced in its original position. The grave contained three vases as offerings and the ashes of the deceased.
Nearby are the remains of an oven from the Roman period as well as an extremely rare Mycenaean pottery workshop.
Grotta Beach
Grotta Beach borders the north side of the area. It’s not a swimming beach, but there are great views of the Temple of Apollo. If you look north, you can even spot Mykonos.
Sunset in Naxos Town
Finally, you can’t visit Naxos without taking in the fantastic sunsets from Naxos Town. While most people flock to the Temple of Apollo, I personally enjoyed watching the sunset from Grotta Beach. Not only could I capture the beautiful colors in the sky, I was also able to get a silhouette of the temple and all the people watching from there.
Where to Stay in Naxos Town
There are plenty of choices for accommodation in Naxos Town and for any budget. I decided to stay in a quieter area at an apartment.
3 Wishes
For my two nights on Naxos, I stayed at 3 Wishes. The property contains three beautiful apartments in Grotta, a quiet area of town. It’s only a few minutes walk to the main part of town, Kastro, and the Temple of Apollo.
Each room comes equipped with a kitchenette, air conditioning, large bathroom, and balcony. My room was Evimeria. It was spotless clean, very comfortable, and overall perfect for my stay. The fresh fruit was a nice touch!
The hosts are wonderful people who go out of their way to make you feel at home. If you have a car, there’s a free parking lot just around the corner. I’d definitely stay again on my next trip to Naxos.
Where to Eat in Naxos Town
With all the restaurants along the waterfront and scattered throughout the Kastro district, there’s no shortage of good places to eat in Naxos Town. I only had two meals there and I was craving souvlaki both times.
To Spitiko
For lunch, I stopped at To Spitiko, which is located at the south end of the port in Naxos Town. It’s a grill serving a variety of Greek dishes including kalamaki (souvlaki), gyros, steaks, chicken, salads, appetizers, and more.
I had a Greek village salad and a pita kalamaki, and washed it down with a Fix beer. I made the mistake of ordering a pita souvlaki and the waiter scolded me, saying “it’s not souvlaki, it’s kalamaki!” Same thing!!! Other than that, service is great and the food is even better.
To Souvlaki tou Maki
Later that night, I was craving another souvlaki, so I walked by To Souvlaki tou Maki. They have a decent selection of grilled treats as well. I ordered two pita kalamakia to go. Service wasn’t very friendly so I’m glad I didn’t stick around. The food was alright. I thought To Spitiko was better.
