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Apeiranthos (Απείρανθος or Απέραθος) is a village in the mountains of central Naxos, Greece. It’s well-known for its beauty and authenticity.
Introduction to Apeiranthos
Apeiranthos, built on the slopes of Mount Fanari, is the second largest village on Naxos. It’s believed to have been founded by Cretans in the 10th century. The inhabitants speak a Cretan dialect and practice some traditions similar to those on Crete. The village’s architecture, with stone houses and alleys paved with marble, are a major draw. Apeiranthos is also transliterated as Apiranthos and Aperathos.
Manolis Glezos: Hometown Hero
Apeiranthos was the hometown of one of modern Greece’s heroes, Manolis Glezos (1922-2020). On April 27, 1941, German soldiers raised the Nazi flag on the Acropolis to mark the beginning of the Axis occupation of Greece. A little over a month later on May 31, Glezos and Lakis Santas (1922-2011) climbed up the Acropolis and tore down the Nazi flag. It was one of the first acts of resistance during World War II. They not only inspired other Greeks to resist but also became international anti-Nazi heroes.
For their daring act, both men were sentenced to death in absentia but weren’t identified until much later. Glezos was arrested by German soldiers on March 24, 1942, and imprisoned and tortured. He was arrested again on April 21, 1943, by Italian soldiers and spent three months in jail. Finally, in 1944, Greek collaborators imprisoned and beat him for trying to escape. From after the war until 1971, Glezos spent a total of 11 years 4 months in prison and 4 years 6 months in exile for his left-wing political beliefs.
Walking Through Apeiranthos
During our visit to the village, we parked the car in the public parking lot on the main road. We didn’t have much time to see the village and mainly stopped for lunch. We walked through the lower part of the village until we found our restaurant and then walked back to the car. There were a few points of interest along the way.
For those with more time to explore Apeiranthos, there’s a tourist map in English and Greek at the lower part of the village. It contains a few different walking routes and indicates important landmarks on each route. Hopefully I can spend more time there on my next visit to Naxos and properly see the village.
Church of Panagia Aperathitissa
At the entrance to the lower part of the village is the Church of Panagia Aperathitissa. It was built in 1819 and features a triple bell tower made of white marble. It’s believed that an icon of the Virgin Mary found by a shepherd indicated the location for the church to be built.
Zevgoli Tower
Along the main path through the lower part of Apeiranthos is the Zevgoli Tower. It was built in the 17th century by the Castri family, whose coat of arms adorns the main entrance. The tower served as a residence for feudal lords during the Venetian period. It’s two stories high and features arches, balconies, and verandas.
The Zevgoli Tower became property of the Somarippa family in 1677. Immediately after the Greek Revolution of 1821, the Zevgoli family, the ancestors of the current owners, acquired the building. It has since been renovated and functions as a private residence, mostly during the summer. When the owners are present, they allow access to the tower.
Museums in Apeiranthos
Apeiranthos is home to no less than five museums. Although we didn’t have a chance to visit any, we encountered three of them along the path we took. The Museum of Fine Arts, Geological Museum, and Folklore Museum are located at the village’s cultural center. Nearby is the Archaeological Collection. Elsewhere in town is the Museum of Natural History.
The Archaeological Collection is open daily except Tuesdays. Admission is 3€ from April through October and 2€ the rest of the year (as of March 2024). The other 4 museums are open daily during the summer and you can visit all 4 on a single ticket for 3€ (as of October 2023).
Frantzeskos Windmill
On a hill across from the village is the historic Frantzeskos Windmill, which was built in 1901 and operated until 1955. It has been restored and is still functional.
Where to Eat in Apeiranthos
As previously mentioned, our plan was to stop in Apeiranthos for lunch and walk through the village. Our first choice, Stou Koutoupa, was closed until the early evening so we found another place to eat.
Amorginos
Amorginos is a traditional local taverna housed in a renovated Stamatogiannis shop. They offer local dishes originating in Apeiranthos as well as other Greek specialties. There’s seating indoors and on the balcony with beautiful views of the mountainous landscape.
For lunch, we shared a plate of horta (greens). I had the rosto, which is a local specialty, as my main dish. It’s a chunk of pork slow-roasted in wine, tomatoes, herbs, and garlic. It’s nice and tender and has an incredible flavor. Overall, the food was excellent but we didn’t find the service to be very friendly. Prices are fair.
Views of Filoti
Finally, on the road leaving Apeiranthos, we stopped to take in the beautiful views of Filoti. It’s the largest village on the island.
