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Zelve Open Air Museum (Zelve Açık Hava Müzesi) is an important archaeological site in Cappadocia, Turkey. It lies within the UNESCO World Heritage listed Göreme Historical National Park (Göreme Tarihî Milli Parkı).
Visiting Zelve Open Air Museum
Zelve is open daily from 8am to 5pm. Admission is 280₺ (as of August 2023). Tickets are also good for access to nearby Paşabağ. It’s not as popular as Paşabağ and usually makes for a much more relaxed experience. There’s a chance you might have the entire site to yourself like I did on my first visit.
History of Zelve
Zelve is situated in three valleys. It’s not known when it was first settled, but the area was an important center for Christian monastic life from the 9th through 13th centuries. The first seminaries for priests were established there. Unfortunately, its Byzantine name is unknown.
After the Byzantine period, Zelve became an Ottoman Turkish village. It was inhabited until 1952 when the residents were evacuated for safety purposes. Zelve opened to the public as a museum in 1967.
First Valley at Zelve
The path running to the left from the entrance leads to the first valley, where there are a few important features as well as some spectacular views.
Walking up the steps towards the Grape Church and millstone (see below), it’s possible to spot dovecotes on the other side of the valley. Locals carved these holes into the rock face for pigeons to roost. They would then collect the pigeon droppings and use it for fertilizer. Pigeons were also a source of food.
Grape Church
In the first valley is the Grape Church (Üzümlü Kilise). It was the main church for Christians living in Zelve and is named for the vine decoration in the north apse. The church dates back to the 6th century and has two naves. Another church, the Fish Church (Balıklı Kilise), sits above on a ridge. Photographs are forbidden inside the church.
Millstone
Also in the first valley is a huge millstone for grinding wheat. It sits in a large room carved out of the rock.
Second Valley at Zelve
The second valley at Zelve Open Air Museum is the most scenic. During my first visit in June 2022, there were beautiful purple wildflowers adding to the scenery. It was possible to spot collapsed cave churches along the path.
At the top of the path in the second valley, looking back towards the park entrance, are in my opinion the best views in all of Zelve. Looking in the other direction towards the end of the valley are several fairy chimneys. There’s also a tunnel near that spot leading to the third valley.
Monastery Complex
The second valley contains a huge monastery complex as well as the Holy Cross Church. Much of the monastery is in danger of collapsing, so visitors are not allowed to enter.
Mosque
At the beginning of the third valley is a mosque and what was the village square. The minaret was built in the baldachin style with four columns and a pointed top.
The mosque was the only mosque in Zelve. The façade and a small part inside the entrance was built out of cut stones. The rest of the mosque, including the mihrab, was carved out of the rock.
Monastery
Continuing up the third valley to the right is one of the most important features of Zelve Open Air Museum. It’s a huge monastery complex built into a natural dome.
The monastery, which is closed to the public for safety reasons, contains a maze of tunnels and millstone doors like the ones found in the underground cities of the region. The lower levels were used as stables while the upper levels contained living spaces.
Stables
Opposite the monastery is a set of stables dating back to the Seljuk and Ottoman periods. The stables are interconnected with a series of open passageways.
Inside the stables, it’s possible to make out troughs and hitching posts where animals were tied to the rock.
Some of the rooms may have been used as living spaces or kitchens at one point, with a thick layer of black soot covering the walls and ceilings.
Dovecotes
The final feature of the third valley are the dovecotes carved into the cliff face on the left side. Many were created during the Ottoman period by blocking the entrances of previously carved churches or living quarters with cut stone.
These dovecotes are significant because of the artwork around them. Some are decorated with symbols of fertility, abundance, or good fortune, while others contain Ottoman script or geometric figures.
