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Zelve Open Air Museum (Zelve Açık Hava Müzesi) is an important archaeological site in Cappadocia, Turkey. It lies within the UNESCO World Heritage listed Göreme Historical National Park (Göreme Tarihî Milli Parkı).

 

Visiting Zelve Open Air Museum

Zelve is open daily from 8am to 5pm. Admission for foreigners is €12 (as of August 2024). Tickets are also good for access to nearby Paşabağ. It’s not as popular as Paşabağ and usually makes for a much more relaxed experience. There’s a chance you might have the entire site to yourself like I did on my first visit. Check the official website for more info.

Entrance


 

History of Zelve

Zelve is situated in three valleys. It’s not known when it was first settled, but the area was an important center for Christian monastic life from the 9th through 13th centuries. The first seminaries for priests were established there. Unfortunately, its Byzantine name is unknown.

Path leading into the park from the entrance

After the Byzantine period, Zelve became an Ottoman Turkish village. It was inhabited until 1952 when the residents were evacuated for safety purposes. Zelve opened to the public as a museum in 1967.

 

First Valley at Zelve

The path running to the left from the entrance leads to the first valley, where there are a few important features as well as some spectacular views.

First valley at Zelve Open Air Museum in Cappadocia, Turkey
First valley
First valley at Zelve Open Air Museum in Cappadocia, Turkey
First valley

Walking up the steps towards the Grape Church and millstone (see below), it’s possible to spot dovecotes on the other side of the valley. Locals carved these holes into the rock face for pigeons to roost. They would then collect the pigeon droppings and use it for fertilizer. Pigeons were also a source of food.

First valley
Dovecotes
Dovecotes

 

Grape Church

In the first valley is the Grape Church (Üzümlü Kilise). It was the main church for Christians living in Zelve and is named for the vine decoration in the north apse. The church dates back to the 6th century and has two naves. Another church, the Fish Church (Balıklı Kilise), sits above on a ridge. Photographs are forbidden inside the church.

Grape Church at Zelve Open Air Museum in Cappadocia, Turkey
Grape Church

 

Millstone

Also in the first valley is a huge millstone for grinding wheat. It sits in a large room carved out of the rock.

Cave with the millstone
Millstone
Millstone at Zelve Open Air Museum in Cappadocia, Turkey
Millstone


 

Second Valley at Zelve

The second valley at Zelve Open Air Museum is the most scenic. During my first visit in June 2022, there were beautiful purple wildflowers adding to the scenery. It was possible to spot collapsed cave churches along the path.

Second valley
Second valley at Zelve Open Air Museum in Cappadocia, Turkey
Second valley

At the top of the path in the second valley, looking back towards the park entrance, are in my opinion the best views in all of Zelve. Looking in the other direction towards the end of the valley are several fairy chimneys. There’s also a tunnel near that spot leading to the third valley.

Zelve Open Air Museum in Cappadocia, Turkey
Zelve Open Air Museum
Looking towards the end of the second valley at Zelve Open Air Museum in Cappadocia, Turkey
Looking towards the end of the second valley
Fairy chimneys

 

Monastery Complex

The second valley contains a huge monastery complex as well as the Holy Cross Church. Much of the monastery is in danger of collapsing, so visitors are not allowed to enter.

Monastery
Monastery at Zelve Open Air Museum in Cappadocia, Turkey
Monastery

 

Mosque

At the beginning of the third valley is a mosque and what was the village square. The minaret was built in the baldachin style with four columns and a pointed top.

Mosque at Zelve Open Air Museum in Cappadocia, Turkey
Mosque
Minaret

The mosque was the only mosque in Zelve. The façade and a small part inside the entrance was built out of cut stones. The rest of the mosque, including the mihrab, was carved out of the rock.

Mosque at Zelve Open Air Museum in Cappadocia, Turkey
Mosque
Mihrab


 

Monastery

Continuing up the third valley to the right is one of the most important features of Zelve Open Air Museum. It’s a huge monastery complex built into a natural dome.

Third valley
Monastery

The monastery, which is closed to the public for safety reasons, contains a maze of tunnels and millstone doors like the ones found in the underground cities of the region. The lower levels were used as stables while the upper levels contained living spaces.

Monastery at Zelve Open Air Museum in Cappadocia, Turkey
Monastery
Room in the monastery

 

Stables

Opposite the monastery is a set of stables dating back to the Seljuk and Ottoman periods. The stables are interconnected with a series of open passageways.

Stables
Stables

Inside the stables, it’s possible to make out troughs and hitching posts where animals were tied to the rock.

Stable
Stable

Some of the rooms may have been used as living spaces or kitchens at one point, with a thick layer of black soot covering the walls and ceilings.

Stable
Stable


 

Dovecotes

The final feature of the third valley are the dovecotes carved into the cliff face on the left side. Many were created during the Ottoman period by blocking the entrances of previously carved churches or living quarters with cut stone.

Dovecotes
Dovecotes at Zelve Open Air Museum in Cappadocia, Turkey
Dovecotes

These dovecotes are significant because of the artwork around them. Some are decorated with symbols of fertility, abundance, or good fortune, while others contain Ottoman script or geometric figures.

Dovecotes
Dovecotes

 

Map with the Zelve Open Air Museum

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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