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Dolmabahçe Palace (Dolmabahçe Sarayı) is a magnificent Ottoman palace on the Bosporus. It’s one of the highlights of visiting Istanbul and is located in the Dolmabahçe area.
History of Dolmabahçe Palace
Dolmabahçe Palace sits on land reclaimed from the Bosporus. It was once a bay used to anchor the Ottoman fleet. The bay was filled in the 18th century to create an imperial garden. In fact, the name Dolmabahçe translates to Filled Garden. A series of small palaces and wooden pavilions were built in the 18th and early 19th centuries, eventually forming the Beşiktaş Waterfront Palace (Beşiktaş Sahil Sarayı) complex.
Dolmabahçe Palace was commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecid I. After living at the Medieval Topkapi Palace for nearly 400 years, he decided it was time for the Ottoman Empire to build a modern royal palace. Topkapi lacked modern comforts and luxury, so he decided to demolish the Beşiktaş Waterfront Palace and build Dolmabahçe in its place.
Construction on Dolmabahçe Palace started on June 14, 1843, under Ottoman Armenian architect Garabet Balyan (1800-1866) and his son, Nigoğayos (1826-1858). It officially opened on June 7, 1856. The cost of construction contributed to bankrupting the empire, which defaulted on its public debt in October 1875.
Dolmabahçe Palace contains a total of 285 rooms, 44 halls, 6 baths, and 68 toilets. It covers an area of 14,595 square meters. Six sultans lived at the palace from 1856 to 1924. It was the main administrative center of the Ottoman Empire from 1856 to 1887 and again from 1909 to 1922. Yıldız Palace was used between 1887 and 1909.
Dolmabahçe Palace After the Ottoman Empire
On March 3, 1924, the palace became property of the Turkish Republic. It served as a summer presidential residence for Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, who died there on November 10, 1938. Atatürk held the First Turkish History Congress there in 1932, and the First and Second Turkish Language Conferences in 1934. He also opened it to tourists for the first time in 1930.
Atatürk hosted guests such as King Edward VIII of Great Britain, King Faisal I of Iraq, Reza Shah Pahlavi of Iran, King Abdullah I of Jordan, King Amanullah of Afghanistan, and King Alexander I of Yugoslavia. Later, it held receptions for Prime Minister Charles de Gaulle of France, King Faisal II of Iraq, and President Giovanni Gronchi of Italy.
The palace opened to tourism once a week starting in 1952, and stayed open more frequently starting June 25, 1979. It officially became a museum in 1984 and is managed by the Directorate of National Palaces (Milli Saraylar Daire Başkanlığı).
Visiting Dolmabahçe Palace
The main entrance to Dolmabahçe Palace is on the western end of the grounds. Visitors can purchase tickets there. They cost 1050₺ for foreigners (as of January 2024) and the Museum Pass Istanbul is not accepted. The palace is open daily except Mondays. Visit the official website for more information.
When I first visited in November 2010, a guided tour was required for all visitors. Visits are now self-guided. A free audioguide is provided and highly recommended to make the most of your visit. Photos are forbidden inside the palace. There are exits at both the eastern and western ends of the grounds.
Tourist Entrance to Dolmabahçe Palace
There are a few points of interests to look out for at the tourist entrance to Dolmabahçe Palace.
Dolmabahçe Clock Tower
The first thing most visitors see is the Dolmabahçe Clock Tower (Dolmabahçe Saat Kulesi). It was commissioned by Sultan Abdülhamid II and built by Ottoman Armenian architect Sarkis Balyan (1835-1899) between 1890 and 1895.
The clock tower is 27 meters (89 feet) high. The clock was installed by Ottoman court clock master Johann Meyer and made by the house of French clockmaker Jean-Paul Garnier (d. 1869). It features Eastern Arabic numerals.
Treasury Gate of Dolmabahçe Palace
After purchasing tickets, visitors pass through the elegant Treasury Gate (Hazine Kapısı). It features two iron doors sitting in an archway between two double columns. The medallion above the gate contains the monogram of Sultan Abdülmecid I. Underneath is a poem by Ziver dated 1855. The poem was inscribed by Ottoman calligrapher Kazasker Mustafa İzzet Efendi (1801-1876).
Changing of the Guard
During my very first visit to Dolmabahçe Palace, I was able to witness a changing of the guard ceremony outside the Treasury Gate.
Furnishings Department
To the left of the Treasury Gate is the Furnishings Department (Mefruşat Dairesi). Today, it hosts the palace administrative building. Visitors pass through the elegant courtyard of the building, which also contains a gift shop.
Selamlık at Dolmabahçe Palace
The Selamlık makes up the west wing of Dolmabahçe Palace and was reserved for men only. It’s surrounded by the Selamlık Garden on the west and north sides while the Bosporus borders the south side. The Ceremonial Hall sits to the east, separating the Selamlık from the Harem. Self-guided tours of the Selamlık end at the Ceremonial Hall.
Before entering, visitors must put plastic booties over their shoes. Once inside, the self-guided tour passes through several halls used for state functions and meetings. They’re lavishly decorated with gold, crystal, marble, mahogany, and fine silk and wool carpets. All decorations and furniture are original.
No photos are allowed inside the palace buildings, but on my first visit I managed to sneak a few shots as did several other guests. I apologize for the quality.
Selamlık Garden
The beautiful Selamlık Garden (Selamlık Bahçesi), also known as the Hasbahçe is the largest garden on the palace grounds. The Selamlık Garden contains a pond in the center with a swan fountain brought from Yıldız Palace. There are also trees and plants from all over the world, including Korean pines, magnolias, and cedars.
Sultanate Gate of Dolmabahçe Palace
On the north side of the garden is the Sultanate Gate (Saltanat Kapısı). It’s located between two high walls. There’s a column on each side and the monogram of Sultan Abdülmecid I sits above the gate. The other side of the gate faces Dolmabahçe Avenue. It’s nearly identical to the side facing the garden.
Ceremonial Hall at Dolmabahçe Palace
The most magnificent room of the palace is the Ceremonial Hall (Muayede Salonu), which separates the Selamlık and the Harem. It’s one of the finest palace halls in the world and was used for celebrations, ceremonies, and balls.
The Ceremonial Hall features an impressive 4 ½ ton crystal chandelier hanging from the domed ceiling. The chandelier was designed by Frederick Rixon of Hancock, Rixon, & Dunt in London, England. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938) laid in state in the hall after his death.
Although tours of the Selamlık end on the Bird Garden side of the Ceremonial Hall, be sure to visit the Bosporus side of the building in front of the sea gate. Before continuing, look down each side of Dolmabahçe Palace. The architect wanted to create the illusion that the building never ends.
Also take a few minutes to admire the ornate stonework and decorations on the Ceremonial Hall. The design blends different architectural styles together, including traditional Ottoman, Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassical.
Bird Garden at Dolmabahçe Palace
The Bird Garden (Kuşluk Bahçesi) is located between the Harem Garden and Selamlık Garden. It’s surrounded by the palace walls to the north, the Ceremonial Hall to the south, and interior walls to the east and west. After visiting the Selamlık and Ceremonial Hall, guests pass through the Bird Garden on their way to the Harem.
The Bird Garden has lots of shade and a peaceful atmosphere. The center of the garden features a pool. Peacocks, pheasants, and guineafowl ramble among magnolia, chestnut, and linden trees.
Glass Pavilion
First, on the northwest corner of the Bird Garden is the Glass Pavilion (Camlı Köşk), also known as the Crystal Pavilion. It was the only window to the outside world from the land side of Dolmabahçe Palace. Sultans would sit and watch official processions outside the palace from the pavilion. Unfortunately, it hasn’t been open during my visits.
The Glass Pavilion opens onto what is now Dolmabahçe Avenue. It was designed and built by British architect William Smith (1817-1891). Most of the materials were brought from the United Kingdom for its construction.
Bird Lodge and Bird House
In front of the Glass Pavilion is the Bird Lodge (Kuşluk Köşkü) and to the right is the Bird House (Kuşluk Binası). Birds were brought to the palace from all over the world and many were gifts. Some of the birds are rare.
Grave of Hoca Ahmet Turani
Finally, on the wall leading to the Harem is the grave of Hoca Ahmet Turani. I couldn’t find any information about him other than his year of death in 1397.
Harem at Dolmabahçe Palace
The Harem at Dolmabahçe Palace contained the private living quarters of the Ottoman sultan and his family. It was completely isolated from the outside world. It’s bordered by the Harem Garden to the north, the Bosporus to the south, the Ceremonial Hall to the west, and another section of the palace to the east. On the Bosporus side, which has a stone façade, there’s a beautiful garden as well as wonderful views across to the Asian side.
Before entering the Harem, visitors must put plastic booties over their shoes. Once inside, the self-guided tour passes through several rooms used by the royal family. They’re lavishly decorated with gold, crystal, marble, mahogany, and fine silk and wool carpets. All decorations and furniture are original. Photography is forbidden inside. Across from the entrance is a café and restrooms.
The rooms on the inland section include eight apartments lined along two corridors. They were used by the wives, favorites, and concubines of the sultan, who lived in them with their children. The apartments had three or four rooms each, with stairs running from the ground floor to the second floor. Rooms running parallel to the Bosporus were reserved for the sultan and his mother. Each apartment has its own bathroom.
One of the most important rooms in the Harem was used as a bedroom by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. The founder of the Turkish Republic spent his last days in the room and died on November 10, 1938, at 9:05am. The clock in the room points to 9:05.
Harem Garden
The Harem Garden (Harem Bahçesi) is through the east gate of the Bird Garden. Visitors walk through the garden to access the Harem. It contains an oval pool in the center and the beds are arranged in geometric shapes. A redwood planted in the garden is the oldest tree in the palace complex. You might even be able to spot guineafowl walking around.
Dolmabahçe Clock Museum
The Dolmabahçe Clock Museum sits on the north side of the Harem Garden. It’s housed in the former Internal Treasury Department (İç Hazine Dairesi). The museum opened in 2004 and features clocks from the National Palaces Clock Collection (Millî Saraylar Saat Koleksiyonu). 71 Ottoman, British, and French clocks are on display. In front of the Clock Museum is a flower clock.
Eastern Section of Dolmabahçe Palace
After exiting the Harem, you can continue to the less-visited eastern section of Dolmabahçe Palace. It contains some of the palace’s functional buildings as well as two museums.
There are two ways to access the eastern section. First, if you have a ticket to the Dolmabahçe Palace complex, you can walk down a path to the east of the Harem and pass through a turnstile. Keep in mind you won’t be able to return to the palace as this is an exit.
The other way to visit is to pass through a gate outside the palace complex along Dolmabahçe Avenue, heading towards central Beşiktaş. You don’t need a ticket to enter through this gate, but you’ll need to pass through a security checkpoint.
Garden of the Crown Prince
First, if you enter from the Harem, the turnstiles open to the Garden of the Crown Prince (Veliaht Bahçesi). This beautiful space contains a small pond in the center and is surrounded by a few important buildings.
Greenhouses
On the northwest corner of the garden are two greenhouses. The Greenhouse (Sera) and the New Greenhouse (Yeni Sera). The New Greenhouse functions as a café. A small building, the Circumcision Kiosk (Sünnet Köşkü) (not pictured), sits in front of the New Greenhouse.
Hareket Kiosks
On the north side of the garden are two buildings. The Hareket Kiosks (Hareket Köşkleri) were added to the palace by Sultan Abdülhamid II after an earthquake in 1898.
The kiosks, which are the only wooden buildings on the palace grounds, were designed by Ottoman Armenian architect Sarkis Balyan (1835-1899).
Apartment of the Crown Prince
On the south side of the garden is the Apartment of the Crown Prince (Veliaht Dairesi), where the heirs to the throne would live. It was built during the reign of Sultan Abdülmecid I and originally planned as a home for future Sultan Abdülaziz. Abdülaziz and subsequent crown princes used the palace during their heirdom period.
A garden on the south side of the building allows for views of the Bosporus. It’s also a pleasant space to walk or relax.
The southern façade of the building is much more ornate than the northern façade. Pay special attention to the fine stonework.
National Palaces Painting Museum
In 1937, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938) turned the Apartment of the Crown Prince into the Istanbul Art and Sculpture Museum. After a renovation taking place between 2010 and 2014, it reopened as the National Palaces Painting Museum (Milli Saraylar Resim Müzesi). Admission to the museum is 300₺ for foreigners (as of February 2024). It’s open daily except Mondays. Photography is forbidden inside.
The National Palaces Painting Museum exhibits over 200 paintings in 11 sections. Sections include portraits of Sultans Abdülmecid and Abdülaziz; Westernization in the Ottoman Empire; Turkish painters between 1870 and 1930; court painters; paintings purchased from the Goupil Gallery; paintings by Abdülmecid II (1868-1944), the last Crown Prince and Caliph of the Ottoman Dynasty; portraits and historic compositions; paintings by Ivan Aivazovsky (1817-1900); aide-de camp painters; and Orientalist paintings.
Apartments of the Gentlemen in Waiting
Directly opposite the Apartment of the Crown Prince, also along the Bosporus, is the Apartments of the Gentlemen in Waiting (Musahiban Dairesi). It’s closed to the public.
Agavat Apartments
Walking along the path towards the entrance/exit of the eastern section are the Agavat Apartments, which once housed servants assigned to the Harem. For many years, the Agavat Apartments belonged to the Istanbul Naval Museum and housed historic naval documents.
Dormitory of the Guards
On opposite sides of the gate, best seen from outside the complex and across the street, are two more buildings. To the left of the gate is the Dormitory of the Guards (Baltacılar Dairesi). It’s now occupied by the Mimar Sinan Fine Arts University State Conservatory (Mimar Sinan Güzel Sanatlar Üniversitesi Devlet Konservatuvarı). To the right (not pictured) is the Carpet Weaving House (Hereke Dokumahanesi).
Palace Collections Museum
Finally, just past the Dormitory of the Guards, is the Palace Collections Museum (Saray Koleksiyonları Müzesi). It’s housed in the former Imperial Palace Kitchens (Matbah-ı Âmire), where French and Italian chefs were known to work from time to time.
Admission to the museum is 130₺ for foreigners (as of February 2024). It’s open daily except Mondays and photography is forbidden inside.
The museum displays over 5,000 items used in daily life in the late Ottoman palaces, from the period of the last six sultans. Objects come from Dolmabahçe, Beylerbeyi, and Yıldız Palaces; Küçüksu, Ihlamur, and Maslak Pavilions; Hereke Carpet Factory; and Yıldız Porcelain Factory. The entire collection contains over 43,000 items.
Sections include children’s clothing; toys and educational instruments; furniture; calligraphy sets; porcelain; embroidery pieces; silverware; crystal; carpets and fabrics; chandeliers and lighting equipment; heating and industrial equipment; painting equipment; clocks and musical instruments; and books.
