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Jerusalem is a fascinating city with countless attractions for all interest and religious sites important to Jews, Christians, and Muslims. It could take a lifetime to discover everything, and even longer to understand life in such a hotly contested place.
During the long history of Jerusalem, its has been under siege 23 times, captured and recaptured 44 times, and attacked 52 times. It’s the holiest city in Judaism and Christianity and the third holiest in Islam. It’s also at the heart of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, as both sides claim the city as their capital.
Yet between all the controversy and differences, there’s an incredible feeling being in this city with thousands of years of history. It’s a place that can often feel chaotic and full of tension, but everyone should visit once in their lifetime if not just for the experience.
Ben Gurion Airport
Jerusalem is served by Ben Gurion Airport, about 50 kilometers (31 miles) on the way to Tel Aviv. The Tel Aviv-Jerusalem Railway provides direct access to the city from the airport.
Navon Railway Station
The main train station in Jerusalem is Jerusalem-Yitzhak Navon Railway Station. It’s located on Jaffa Road. As of May 2023, high speed trains run only to Ben Gurion Airport and on to Tel Aviv. Eventually, high speed trains will connect Jerusalem to northern Israel. It’s possible to connect to other cities on regular trains via Tel Aviv. Trains are operated by Israel Railways.
Jerusalem Central Bus Station
Jerusalem Central Bus Station is across the street from the railway station. It’s one of the busiest bus stations in the county, with service to cities such as Tel Aviv, Haifa, Tiberias, Be’er Sheva, Lod, and Petah Tikva.
Jerusalem Light Rail
Jerusalem Light Rail currently has one line in operation. The Red Line is convenient for visitors to the city arriving via train or bus. To get to the Old City, the Central Station stop sits between the train and bus stations. The light rail runs along Jaffa Road, with the nearest stops to the Old City at City Hall and Damascus Gate.
You can purchase a ticket from automatic Cfir kiosks at each station. Single rides cost ₪5.5 (as of May 2023). There are also unlimited daily and weekly passes. Tickets must be validated upon boarding the train.
Getting Around
We mostly got around Jerusalem on foot. The majority of sites we visited were within the walls of the Old City, and anywhere outside the Old City we had a tour bus previously arranged.
We only took one taxi, and that was to change hotels in the middle of the trip. It was more expensive than the cost of a taxi in New York or Chicago.
Rip-Offs
Jerusalem is an expensive city to begin with, but some vendors go out of their way to rip off tourists. We had bad experiences with simple tasks like buying a bottle of water or having lunch. One vendor charged a fair price for a bottle of water while the one next door wanted triple. A member of our group was charged double the price we paid for a salad and a falafel at the same restaurant. It’s best to confirm prices before you buy, and if something seems too expensive, shop around. While shopping at souvenir shops, don’t forget to bargain!
Abraham Tours
If you’re looking for a reputable tour operator, we highly recommend Abraham Tours. We took two thought-provoking tours into the West Bank, visiting Hebron on one day and Jenin and Nablus on another day. There are also walking tours of Jerusalem; day trips to other parts of Israel and Palestine, including the Dead Sea; and multi-day tours of Israel, Jordan, and Egypt. Their offices are at the Abraham Hostel on Davidka Square.
Tourist Israel & Bein Harim Tours – AVOID
We do NOT recommend Tourist Israel or Bein Harim Tours. This was a complete disaster and mass tourism at its worst. We were picked up from Jerusalem and transferred to Tel Aviv for a tour of Caesarea, Haifa, Rosh Hanikra, and Acre, and for the high price it was a complete waste of time and money.
Tourist Israel picked us up and had us change buses in a park in Tel Aviv, where Bein Harim Tours took over. The guide was an idiot, we literally had 15 minutes in both Haifa and Acre, and did nothing on the itinerary in Acre. The saving grace was Rosh Hanikra.
To top it off, we were supposed to be dropped off at our hotel in Tel Aviv, but the guide left us a kilometer away and pointed us in the wrong direction. Nobody we asked knew where to find the hotel. Thankfully, a friendly local saw us stranded with our bags, found the hotel on Google Maps, and drove us there in three minutes. Without him, we would have been completely lost.
