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We were very much looking forward to exploring Acre on our guided tour of northern Israel. Unfortunately, the tour was terribly organized and we didn’t get to see it properly.
This entry is incomplete. It’s basically about a quick walk we took around the Old City during our tour and what we managed to walk past. We were only able to wander through a very small part of the city.
History
Acre, known as Akko to locals, is a fortified city on the northern end of Haifa Bay. It was an important Crusader city, and was the last city in the Levant held by the Crusaders until it was captured by the Mamluks in 1291. Acre is also the holiest city in the Baháʼí faith. Needless to say, there are lots of important historic landmarks, mosques, churches, and museums, and the Old City is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Arrival
We arrived at Acre after visiting the Rosh Hanikra grottoes. After passing through the Old City gates, we walked to an area full or restaurants along Salah ad Din Street. Lunch was included in the tour. Our guide sat us down for a mediocre shawarma at a touristy restaurant.
After lunch, our guide literally gave us 30 minutes to walk around the Old City, which is not nearly enough time. We would have been happy to dedicate a whole day, or at least a half day, to enjoy Acre. Before the tour, we were expecting at least two hours.
Khan a-Shawarda
Having to rush, we set off at a quick pace to see as much of the Old City of Acre as possible. The first landmark we came to was Khan a-Shawarda (Merchant’s Inn). This caravanserai was most likely built by Daher al-Omar (1689-1775), the Arab ruler of Palestine during the Ottoman period.
The complex contains a square courtyard with a watering trough for livestock in the center. It’s believed to be built on the site of a Franciscan convent run by the Poor Clares.
Port
After passing through the southeast corner of the khan, we reached the bay side of the Old City. We walked along the sea walls until we reached the bustling port area.
There was lots of action around the port. Street vendors were selling treats while others were offering harbor cruises or rides on horse-drawn carriages. There were also a few restaurants.
The port has been around since at least the 6th century BC. Historically, pilgrims during Crusader times would arrive at the port of Acre to begin their pilgrimage of the Holy Land.
Khan al-Umdan
The Khan al-Umdan (Inn of the Pillars) sits along the harbor. It was built in the late 18th century by Ottoman governor Ahmed al-Jazzar (c. 1725-1804), also known as Cezzar Ahmet Pasha or Jazzar Pasha, using ruins from ancient Caesarea. It was built on what’s believed to be the site of the Court of the Chain, where cases of maritime commerce were heard during Crusader times.
Merchants arriving at the port would unload their goods into storerooms on the first floor and would then sleep in a hostel on the second floor. There’s a courtyard in the center, which we were unable to visit.
The khan features an Ottoman clock tower. The tower contains the Ottoman coat of arms and an Ottoman inscription.
Sinan Pasha Mosque
Khan al-Umdan sits opposite the Sinan Pasha Mosque. It was originally built in the late 16th century but the current building dates back to the early 19th century. It’s the oldest Muslim house of worship in Acre and is closed to visitors. The mosque is now named the el-Bahar or el-Mina Mosque.
Venezia Square
The mosque and khan face Venezia Square, a small square with a seahorse sculpture in the center.
Khan el-Franj
Just north of Venezia Square is the entrance to Khan el-Franj (French Inn). It’s the oldest caravanserai in Acre and was built by French merchants in the 16th century. The French lived and worked in the complex until they were banned from the city by Ahmed al-Jazzar in 1791. Above the gate is a relief of the Lion of St. Mark.
Khan el-Franj was built in what was the central courtyard of the Venetian quarter during the Crusader period. The governor of Acre lived at the khan in the 18th century for security reasons and to keep a close eye on the French merchants.
The north wing of Khan el-Franj is occupied by the Terra Santa School, which was founded in 1620. Just behind it is the Terra Sancta Church, which was founded in 1673 and is run by the Franciscans.
Market
Next, we walked through a covered market area while trying to find our way back to the designated meeting place. There were tourists shopping for souvenirs as well as locals shopping for clothing and other goods.
El-Zeituna Mosque
At the other end of the market, we exited to a small courtyard used as a parking lot. The el-Zeituna Mosque sits on one end. It was built during the reign of Daher al-Omar in the 18th century and is named for the olive trees that were once planted in the courtyard.
Getting Lost
From there, we got lost in some of the historic alleys of Acre. While we wandered through this maze in the Old City, we were able to admire some of the historic masonry and inscriptions.
Hospitaller Fortress
We finally found our way to al-Jazzar Street, which was on the way to the meeting place. On the north side of the street is a wall belonging to the Hospitaller Fortress, or Knights’ Halls. It was built in the middle of the 12th century by the Knights Hospitaller during the Crusader period.
Al-Jazzar Mosque
On the south side of the street is the al-Jazzar Mosque. It was built in 1781 by Ahmed al-Jazzar and is the largest mosque in Israel outside Jerusalem. The complex included a madrasa, student cells, library, and an Islamic court. It was modeled after the mosques of Constantinople (now Istanbul).
The al-Jazzar Mosque was built on the site of a former Crusader cathedral. Ahmed al-Jazzar himself was the architect and he commissioned Greek masons to build the mosque. Ottoman Sultan Abdülhamid II built the green-domed public fountain just outside the entrance to the mosque’s courtyard.
The mosque is open to visitors who are modestly dressed. The entrance fee is ₪10 (as of May 2023). Unfortunately, we were in a rush and couldn’t visit.
End of the Tour
About a half block past al-Jazzar Street, we met the guide and the rest of the group near the Acre visitor center. We had a few minutes to go through an overpriced souvenir shop before we walked back to the bus for our drive to Tel Aviv.
After getting just a small dose of Acre, we were impressed with the atmosphere and enjoyed getting lost in the maze of alleys. We’re determined to go back and see more, with plenty of time to enjoy it next time.
