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San Cipriano is a small village not too far from Buenaventura off the Pacific coast of Colombia. The only way in and out of the town is to ride a brujita from Córdoba or Zaragoza.
Arrival
Once you arrive at the brujita stop at San Cipriano, you walk down the hill to the main road running through town. Children with wheelbarrows wait to help take your bags to one of the hotels or cabañas in the town.
To actually get into the town, which is part of a nature reserve, you have to register with your ID and pay COP$8,000 to enter (as of July 2023). This is done at a large security gate at the entrance to the town. After entering, you have access to all the trails, swimming holes, and waterfalls in and around the town.
Accommodation
There are several places to stay in San Cipriano. All accommodation is simple, and some with shared bathrooms. You can try your luck and find a cabaña or hotel when you arrive, or you can call ahead to one of the hotels that take reservations.
We decided to make reservations at Hotel Relief. It’s probably the nicest hotel in town, although it’s far from luxurious. It has simple rooms for anywhere from two to eight people. Some have fans and others have TVs. The price is quite expensive in relation to the quality, but the staff is friendly and it’s comfortable.
Food
For food, most hotels also have restaurants. Our first lunch was at Hotel Relief, where I had chicken and Marisol had fried fish. The food wasn’t that great and was overpriced.
Our following meals (dinner, breakfast, and lunch) were at Restaurante Jasin, which is off the main road on the way to Charco La Balastrera. The owner is a friendly woman who cooks a great meal and charged us reasonable prices. Try the piangua for lunch if it’s available.
It’s also possible to get a good variety of street food along the main road. You’ll find roasted corn, chorizo, arepas, fresh fruits, burgers, and more.
