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The only way in and out of San Cipriano is to ride a brujita. A brujita is a motorcycle connected to a set of planks with a bench on top. They serve as the main mode of transportation and moving goods.

Brujita in Córdoba, Valle del Cauca, Colombia
Brujita

These unique contraptions are mounted on the abandoned rail lines that once ran between Cali and Buenaventura. They’re a fine example of the ingenuity of the locals. Half the fun of visiting San Cipriano is getting there and back!

Brujitas lining up to go to San Cipriano in Córdoba, Valle del Cauca, Colombia
Brujitas lining up to go to San Cipriano

 

Riding a Brujita

To ride a brujita, first you must purchase tickets from the ticket office near the tracks at one of the two entrances to San Cipriano. The entrances are at Córdoba and Zaragoza, and we chose to enter at Córdoba. The ride costs COP$18,000 (as of January 2023).

Brujita ticket office in Córdoba, Valle del Cauca, Colombia
Brujita ticket office

Our ride took about 20 minutes, with the rail lines passing over bridges and rivers, through thick vegetation, and past a few simple houses.

On the way back to Córdoba the next day, we encountered a number of brujitas that were coming the other way. Those brujitas had to dismount and wait for traffic heading back to Córdoba to pass through before being able to reattach to the tracks and continue to San Cipriano.

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Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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