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Busy Aksaray isn’t my favorite area of Istanbul. While it’s not dangerous, this neighborhood in the Fatih district does have a seedy reputation.
History
Aksaray was named after the city in central Anatolia. Migrants from that city were resettled there by Mehmed the Conqueror in the 15th century in order to repopulate Constantinople after the Ottoman conquest. Today, it’s a modern area full of hotels and shops, mostly popular with Russians and Eastern Europeans. It has also seen an influx of refugees from Syria who moved into the area to escape their country’s civil war.
Aksaray is a busy transportation hub located west of Laleli, north of Yenikapı, and south of Saraçhane. There are stops on both the M1 metro line and the T1 tram line. The M1 metro opens onto Aksaray Square (Aksaray Meydanı), which is surrounded by several restaurants.
Red Minaret Mosque
A block north of Aksaray Square down Horhor Street is the Red Minaret Mosque (Kizil Minare Camii). It was built by Mehmed bin İlyas in 1521, and as the name indicates, it has a minaret made of glazed red bricks. The mosque was destroyed by fire in 1718 and rebuilt by Halil Ağa. In 1965, it was enlarged, and in the 1990s, the wooden roof was removed and replaced with a dome. The minaret is the only remaining original feature.
Murad Pasha Mosque
Just south of Aksaray Square is the Murad Pasha Mosque (Murad Paşa Camii). It was built between 1465 and 1478 by Has Murad Pasha (d. 1473). He was a vizier under Mehmed the Conqueror and a military commander. His brother Mesih Pasha (d. 1501), a Grand Vizier under Sultan Bayezid II, oversaw completion of the mosque and is buried in a tomb on the premises. The two brothers were of Byzantine Greek origin and nephews of Emperor Constantine XI. Had the Byzantine Empire continued, one of them most likely would have inherited the throne from a childless Constantine XI.
The Murad Pasha Mosque was once part of a large complex. It contained a madrasa, hamam, fountain, and tombs. The madrasa was destroyed in 1930 while the hamam was demolished in 1958 during the construction of Adnan Menderes Boulevard. The fountain and tombs were moved to the courtyard.
Alaiyeli Kaptan-ı Derya Ebubekir Ağa Complex
Across a complicated intersection south of the Murad Pasha Mosque is the Alaiyeli Kaptan-ı Derya Ebubekir Ağa Complex (Alaiyeli Kaptan-ı Derya Ebubekir Ağa Külliyesi). The complex contained a primary school, fountain, and tomb. It was built in 1724 by Ebubekir Pasha (1670-1758), a Grand Admiral (Kaptan-ı Derya) of the Ottoman Navy and governor of Egypt, Jeddah, Bosnia, and Cyprus. He was married to Safiye Sultan, the daughter of Sultan Mustafa II.
Pertevniyal Valide Sultan Mosque
The most impressive structure in Aksaray sits on the northwest corner of the intersection of Atatürk Boulevard, Turgut Özal Millet Avenue, and Ordu Avenue. The Pertevniyal Valide Sultan Mosque (Pertevniyal Valide Sultan Camii) was commissioned by Pertevniyal Sultan (1810-1884), a consort of Sultan Mahmud II and the mother of Sultan Abdülaziz. It was built between 1869 and 1872. The mosque was probably designed by Ottoman Armenian architect Sarkis Balyan (1835-1899).
The mosque sits next to the Pertevniyal High School (Pertevniyal Lisesi), which was also built by Pertevniyal Sultan in 1872. The complex contains a madrasa, library, fountain, and the tomb of Pertevniyal Sultan.
One of the most beautiful mosques in Istanbul, its architecture is a mix of Ottoman, Gothic, Moorish, Renaissance, Rococo, and other styles. The prayer hall has a square plan measuring 10 meters by 10 meters topped by a single dome.
On the day I visited the mosque with my Turkish friends, Selen and Canan, the imam was very happy to give us a tour. He talked about the history of the mosque, recent restorations, the elaborate decorations, and also took us to the upper gallery for better views.
St. Theodore Greek Orthodox Church
Finally, across Atatürk Boulevard towards Yenikapı is the St. Theodore Greek Orthodox Church (Αγίων Θεοδώρων Βλάγκας / Aya Todori Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi). I can’t find any information about it.
The church is connected to the Langa Greek Primary School (Özel Langa Rum İlkokulu), which was founded in 1906.
