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The San Ildefonso Pueblo is one of six Tewa pueblos in New Mexico. It’s located in the northern part of the state near Los Alamos and is self-governing.
History
The San Ildefonso Pueblo dates back to around 1300. Its residents resisted the Spaniards in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680 by climbing to the top of Black Mesa before finally surrendering. They also had problems with Spanish colonists encroaching on their land in the 1760s. The modern boundaries were established in 1858, when Congress granted 17,292 acres of land to the pueblo. Today, it consists of over 60,000 acres.
The pueblo was an agricultural based economy until the early 20th century, when it became famous for black-on-black pottery. There are a handful of shops selling pottery to visitors.
Visiting
It’s possible to visit the pueblo by stopping into the visitors center and registering. It costs US$5 per person or US$20 per carload (as of July 2023). Photo permits cost another US$10 and video permits costs US$20 (as of July 2023). The pueblo is typically open daily from 9am to 4pm.
Visitors are not allowed to enter any buildings except the administration center, and cannot walk down certain roads. It’s not a very welcoming place, and at times we felt like we were unwanted, but it was nonetheless interesting to see.
Plaza
After registering, we paid a quick visit to a pottery shop before walking through the main plaza. It’s surrounded by some interesting adobe buildings and there’s a kiva in the center.
Church
Next, we walked by the beautiful church, which is also made of adobe. It contains a simple cemetery in the church yard. The church is the fifth on the site and was dedicated on December 15, 1968.
Administrative Center
The only building we were allowed to enter was the administrative center. It has a nice courtyard out front and a museum inside.
Museum
The small museum contains displays including models of buildings, historic photos, and traditional clothing.
The highlight is the pottery section, explaining the craft for which the San Ildefonso Pueblo is famous. One part shows how pottery is traditionally made, and materials used such as cow manure.
Another section displays some of the finest examples of pottery made by residents of the pueblo. One is a polychrome piece made by Crucita Calabaza (1921-1999), also known as Blue Corn.
Other pieces exhibited were made by Maria Martinez (1887-1980), who along with her husband, Julian (1879-1943), revived black-on-black pottery and made San Ildefonso Pueblo internationally known. Her work is on display in several museums across the United States, including the Smithsonian American Art Museum in Washington, DC, and the Museum of Modern Art in New York City.
