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Perhaps the reason the island of Heybeliada is internationally known is the controversy surrounding Halki Seminary (Θεολογική Σχολή Χάλκης), which sits on a hill just above town. It’s the main school of theology for the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople.
Unfortunately, because of a Turkish government ruling that all private universities must be affiliated with a state-run university, the seminary has not been allowed to hold classes since 1971. Several high-profile international efforts by human rights groups and foreign governments to urge Turkey into reopening the seminary based on the basic human right of freedom of religion have thus far failed to make progress.
Visiting
Halki Seminary is open to all visitors daily except Sundays. It’s a steep walk up a hill to get to the gates. If you don’t have a bike or want to walk, you can take one of the electric trams from near the port. They take the same Istanbulkart you would use on the metro, buses, and ferries.
Entrance
I’ve visited the seminary twice. The first time was on a brisk March afternoon in 2013 with my friend Isaac. We biked up the hill to the gates where the attendant immediately came out to question why we were there. I spoke to him in Greek and asked if it was ok for us to walk around. He let us pass and told us to take as much time as we wanted.
The second time, I was leading a large tour group from Chicago in late 2022. Things had changed dramatically. The gates were open and the seminary was welcoming the public in an effort to build awareness. This time, I was able to wander more of the grounds and some of the classrooms were open. There was even a small gift shop set up in a room off the lobby of the main building.
History
Halki Seminary was founded in 1844 by Patriarch Germanos IV (1790-1853) at the former Holy Trinity Monastery, which dated back to the 9th century. The original buildings, except for the 17th century chapel (see below), were destroyed in an earthquake in 1894. The school was rebuilt by architect Periklis Fotiadis in 1896, and an inscription above the entrance commemorates the new building.
Grounds
On the grounds near the entrance, we noticed a reminder that the Turkish government is always looming over the seminary. As required by Turkish law, a bust of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938) and the Turkish flag were placed on the grounds.
There’s also a bust of Patriarch Bartholomew I. It was donated by two brothers from Bulgaria, Dinko and Yordan Dinevi.
Main Building
Inside the main entrance to the main building is the grand staircase. Only the ground floor and one wing are open to the public. We weren’t able to visit the dormitories or the library, which contains a collection over 120,000 historic books, on either visit.
Down the long, dark hallway, we were able to peek into some classrooms. Exactly 990 graduates studied in these rooms, including Ecumenical Patriarchs, archbishops, bishops, scholars, and other clergy. The classrooms are set up exactly as they were in 1971, waiting for students to someday return.
Holy Trinity Chapel
Behind the main building is the Holy Trinity Chapel. It’s usually closed to the public but we were given special access during my large group tour in 2022.
First, in the narthex is an important 12th century icon of the Virgin and Child. The material used to paint their skin has naturally darkened over time.
The small chapel contains a beautiful iconostasis covered in gold leaf. One of the icons includes a rare depiction of God. There’s also an icon of Ecumenical Patriarch Photios I (c. 820-893), who founded the Holy Trinity Monastery. He’s recognized as a saint in the Orthodox Church.
Other highlights in the chapel include the pulpit covered in gold leaf as well as three icons dating back to the 14th century.
Patio
The path to the right of the chapel leads to a patio with some beautiful views of Heybeliada as well as the island of Büyükada, the largest of the Princes’ Islands. The patio sits right behind the south wing of the main building.
Cemetery
Finally, behind the Holy Trinity Chapel is a small cemetery. Buried there are a few priests and Metropolitans of the Orthodox Church as well as an Ecumenical Patriarch. Most of the recent Patriarchs are buried at the Patriarchal Cemetery at the Monastery of the Life-giving Spring in Zeytinburnu.
Constantine V (259th Ecumenical Patriarch)
Constantine V (b. 1833, Vessa, Chios – d. 1914, Halki) served as Patriarch from April 14, 1897, to April 9, 1901. He graduated from Halki Seminary with honors in 1857 and went on to study at the University of Athens. He was ordained a deacon in 1864 and a priest in 1874, and later served as Metropolitan of Mytilene and Ephesus. Constantine V was dismissed from his Patriarchal duties by the Ottoman authorities as a result of conflicting factions within the Patriarchate. He then retired to Halki. His secular name was Konstantinos Valiadis.
