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Zion National Park is an oasis in the desert, with spectacular green scenery throughout a deep canyon. It’s located in southern Utah.
Introduction to Zion National Park
Zion National Park is an area of unique geography and an unusual plant and animal diversity. There are four different life zones: desert, riparian, woodland, and coniferous forest. Nearly 300 species of birds, 75 species of mammals, and over 30 species of amphibians call the park home.
Humans first arrived in the area now making up the park in the 6th millennium BC. Ancestral Puebloans around the arrived around the beginning of the 4th century. The first people of European descent to pass through were Silvestre Vélez de Escalante (c. 1750-1780) and Francisco Atanasio Domínguez (c. 1740-1803/05), on October 13, 1776, during the Domínguez-Escalante Expedition. Fur trapper Jedediah Smith (1799-1831) explored some areas in 1825.
Mormon farmers arrived in 1847 and began using the Kolob Canyons area for timber and grazing. Nephi Johnson founded the town of Virgin in 1858, and Isaac Behunin settled Zion Canyon, the main section of today’s national park, in 1863. Two more families followed. Behunin is credited with naming Zion.
John Wesley Powell (1834-1902) visited Zion Canyon in 1872, naming it Mukuntuweap, believing it was the Paiute name. John K. Hillers (1843-1925) and James Fennemore (1849-1941) spent the spring of 1872 photographing Zion Canyon, and Hillers returned in April 1873 to take more photos.
Conservation of Zion National Park
The canyon was farmed until 1909, when President William Howard Taft created Mukuntuweap National Monument on July 31 of that year. The remoteness of the park made it difficult to reach. Old wagon trails were upgraded to accommodate automobiles in 1910, and the road into Zion Canyon was built in 1917.
The park boundaries were expanded when Zion National Park was established on November 19, 1919, with the name changing to the one used by the local Mormon community. The popular Angels Landing Trail was constructed in 1926.
Work on the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway began in 1927, allowing for access from the east. It opened in 1930, connecting the park to US 89 at Mount Carmel Junction. The Civilian Conservation Corps made improvements to park infrastructure and built more trails between 1933 and 1942.
A separate Zion National Monument was created on January 22, 1937, encompassing the Kolob Canyons area. It was incorporated into Zion National Park on July 11, 1956. Scenes from Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid were filmed at the park in 1969. Finally, in March 2009, President Barack Obama designated 124,406 acres, about 85% of the park land, as the Zion Wilderness.
Planning Your Trip to Zion National Park
In each national park we visited in Utah, at least one person we met said “wait until you get to Zion”. After spending a day there, I can’t say it met the hype but it’s easily one of the best national parks in the country.
I spent one full day at Zion. It’s obviously not nearly enough time to see all the highlights. In fact, I only visited the main section of the park at Zion Canyon and didn’t venture out to the lesser-known areas to the north. I could have easily spent a week at the park.
During my visit, the weather didn’t cooperate but it didn’t take away from the scenery, either. My main reason for visiting, the Angels Landing Trail, was closed.
If you only have a few hours, you can take the shuttle through Zion Canyon and stop at all of the scenic viewpoints along the way. With a half or full day, you can get in a couple of hikes. With a couple of days, you can visit the Kolob Canyons section in the north. Check the official website for more info.
Before getting into some of the trails and highlights of the park, here’s some essential information to help you plan your trip:
Visitor Centers at Zion National Park
There are two visitor centers at the park. The Zion Canyon Visitor Center is located near the entrance to Zion Canyon. The Kolob Canyons Visitor Center is located at the entrance to Kolob Canyon Road. Both are typically open year-round.
Entrance Fees to Zion National Park
The entrance fee to Zion varies depending on your mode of transportation. Prices are current as of September 2025:
- For private vehicles, it’s $35.
- For motorcycles, it’s $30.
- For visitors entering on bicycle or on foot, it’s $20 for adults and free for kids under 16.
- Holders of any interagency pass are covered for one vehicle or four per-person fees.
Entrance fees are good for seven days. There are fee stations on either entrance along the Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway. To access Kolob Canyon Road, you’ll have to pay the entrance fee at the Kolob Canyons Visitor Center. You’ll also need to pay the fee to access parts of Kolob Terrace Road that fall within park boundaries.
Zion National Park Lodge
Zion National Park Lodge is the only lodge at the park. It’s located along Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. The original lodge was built in 1924 by architect Gilbert Stanley Underwood (1890-1961) and includes king or double queen rooms, suites, and 15 separate cabins. It was destroyed by fire in 1966 and rebuilt in 100 days. Restaurants include the Red Rock Grill and the Castle Dome Café. There’s also an outdoor beer garden and a gift shop.
Camping at Zion National Park
There are three developed campgrounds at Zion. Fees are current as of September 2025:
- Watchman Campground is located south of the Zion Canyon Visitor Center. It has 176 total sites that are open year-round. It costs $35 for a tent only site and $45 for an electric site. Reservations are required.
- South Campground is located north of the Zion Canyon Visitor Center. It has 117 sites that are open from March through October but it’s currently closed for rehabilitation.
- Lava Point Campground is off Kolob Terrace Road and typically open from May through September. It has six primitive sites available for reservation on a two-week rolling window. Cash is not accepted at the site and fees are $25 per night. It’s highly recommended to reserve ahead of time.
Where to Stay Outside Zion National Park
Because the campsites were fully booked, we stayed outside the east entrance of the park. There are several more options just outside the park in Springdale.
Zion Ponderosa Ranch Resort
Zion Ponderosa Ranch Resort is a little out of the way but well worth the effort to get to. They have tent sites, cabins, conestoga wagons, glamping, cowboy cabins, and a lodge. Our tent site was huge and there was a clean bathroom facility a short walk away.
Zion Ponderosa is a great place to stay with friendly service and a good restaurant. There are also several activities available, such as a swimming pool, horseback riding, miniature golf, paintball, rock climbing, and many more. I would happily stay there again.
Shuttles at Zion National Park
A free shuttle bus runs along Zion Canyon Scenic Drive from March through November and the holiday season near the end of December. This is the only way to get through the canyon during those times, and no cars are allowed on the road while the shuttles are in operation. The park may also decide to use them during other busy times of year.
The shuttle runs on a loop leaving from a shuttle station at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center and traveling all the way to the end of Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. Buses run every 7-10 minutes and there are 9 stops in total. There’s also another shuttle that leaves from the visitor center and stops at hotels and restaurants in the neighboring town of Springdale.
Private vehicles are allowed in other sections of the park and on Zion Canyon Scenic Drive when the shuttle isn’t in operation. Overnight guests at the Zion National Park Lodge can receive a permit to drive on Zion Canyon Scenic Drive and must park in the lodge parking lot only.
Parking at Zion National Park
The parking lot at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center fills up early. We arrived at around 9am and were very lucky to find a spot after waiting about 15 minutes. Either use the Springdale line or get there early before it fills up.
Activities at Zion National Park
Hiking, stargazing, photography, horseback riding, bicycling, canyoneering, whitewater rafting, rock climbing, and other outdoor activities are available. Check the official website for more information on these activities. Information about ranger-guided programs can be found at the visitor center.
Safety at Zion National Park
My best advice is to be very careful on the trails and wear proper footwear. Deaths from falling are unfortunately a rare occurrence at Zion, especially on narrow trails and steep cliffs. Also heed flash flood warning levels while hiking in canyons and watch for falling rocks.
Drink plenty of water. There are water bottle filling stations at the visitor centers, campgrounds, and some shuttle stops.
Zion Human History Museum
The Zion Human History Museum has exhibits on the human history of Zion National Park. You can reach it by taking the shuttle to the stop #2 or walking about a mile from the visitor center. The museum opened in 2002 in the former visitor center and administrative building, which was constructed in 1960.
The informative exhibits include displays on Native American culture, pioneer settlement, and the history and growth of Zion as a national park. It also shows the effects of water on the people who have lived at Zion and how it has both created and destroyed the landscape. If you’d like a good overview of the park, you can watch a 22-minute film that runs every half hour.
Towers of the Virgin Viewpoint
Outside the museum there are some great views of the Towers of the Virgin, which stand two miles to the west. West Temple, with its flat top at 7,810 feet (2,655 meters), is on the left. Sundial sits in the center, at 7,590 feet (2,313 meters). On the right is the Altar of Sacrifice at 7,505 feet (2,287 meters). The name for the Altar of Sacrifice really fits, as it has a streak of red flowing down from its flat top.
The top of the Beehive, at 6,904 feet (2,104 meters), peeks between two mountains to the right. You can also see some more impressive scenery in other directions.
Zion Canyon Scenic Drive
Zion Canyon Scenic Drive is the road through the main part of Zion National Park. It follows the path of the Virgin River as it winds through Zion Canyon.
As mentioned earlier, a free shuttle bus makes stops along the road from March through November and the holiday season at the end of December. It runs on a loop leaving from the Zion Canyon Visitor Center and travels all the way to the end of Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. Private vehicles are only allowed on the road outside of shuttle season.
There are nine stops in total on the route and buses come every 7-10 minutes. The first two stops are at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center and the Zion Human History Museum. The third stop is at Canyon Junction, where the Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway intersects with Zion Canyon Scenic Drive.
Stop 4: Court of the Patriarchs
Court of the Patriarchs is the fourth stop along the route and the first stop on Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. From this stop, it’s possible to spot three mountains named after Old Testament figures. To the left is Abraham Peak at 6,890 feet (2,101 meters). Center left is Isaac Peak at 6,825 feet (2,081 meters). Center right is Mount Moroni, standing 5,690 feet (1,734 meters). Finally, to the right is Jacob Peak at 6,831 feet (2,083 meters). The mountains were named by Methodist minister Frederick Vining Fisher in 1916.
Also visible is the Sentinel. On April 12, 1995, a huge rock slide from the Sentinel dammed the Virgin River. This washed out part of the road and trapped 450 guests and employees at the Zion Lodge. Temporary roads had to be constructed in order to evacuate the lodge and allow access to the canyon for summer visitors, and a new permanent road was built a year later.
Stop 5: Zion Lodge
Next is the Zion National Park Lodge, where you can access the Emerald Pools Trail, fill up your water bottle, use the bathroom, or have a meal.
Emerald Pools Trail
The Emerald Pools Trail leads to a set of natural pools and waterfalls. There are actually three interconnected trails:
- The Lower Emerald Pool Trail is an easy 0.6-mile (1 kilometer) one-way hike to the Lower Emerald Pool.
- The Middle Emerald Pools Trail is 0.9 miles (1.4 kilometers) one-way to the Middle Emerald Pools and is of moderate difficulty.
- The Upper Emerald Pool Trail is 0.3 miles (400 meters) one-way off a spur trail from the Middle Emerald Pools Trail.
You can access all three sets of pools by taking the Lower Emerald Pool Trail. During my visit, due to safety reasons and trail maintenance, only the Lower Emerald Pool Trail was open.
Lower Emerald Pool Trail
The trail starts by crossing a bridge over the Virgin River. After crossing, there’s a fork in the trail. To the right is the Lower Emerald Pool Trail and to the left is the trail to Middle Emerald Pools.
The Lower Emerald Pool Trail follows the river’s path for a bit then turns in towards the mountains. After about 10 minutes, you can see water pouring over a cliff. The bottom of a waterfall comes into view.
If you look down, you can see Lower Emerald Pool. It’s formed by natural springs that seep year-round. The color is due to green algae that lives in the pool.
The trail continues along the bottom of the cliff where you get hit with the mist from the waterfall.
Near the end of trail, there are great views back towards the heart of Zion Canyon. You can also see the upper level where the other pools are located.
At the end of the trail, you can head back the way you came or connect to the Kayenta Trail, which takes you to the Grotto picnic area and has some phenomenal views along the way.
Stop 6: The Grotto
The sixth stop is the Grotto. This picnic area is a great place to stop and rest. There are plenty of picnic tables, bathroom facilities, and a water bottle station. You can also access the Kayenta Trail and the Angels Landing Trail via the West Rim Trail. In the 1920s, the Grotto marked the end of the road into Zion Canyon.
Kayenta Trail
The Kayenta Trail connects the Emerald Pools Trail to the Grotto picnic area. We picked up the trail after finishing the Emerald Pools Trail rather than walking back the way we came. It’s a 0.9-mile (1.4 kilometer) one-way hike with moderate difficulty. There are a few drop-offs and it’s mostly downhill from the Emerald Pools Trail.
What I love most about the Kayenta Trail are the views. They’re some of the best in the entire park, at least from the Zion Canyon floor.
No matter what direction you’re looking, the scenery is amazing. The views of the mountains towering over both sides of the Virgin River are picture-perfect.
At the end of the trail, we reached the Grotto. We had a nice lunch before continuing our exploration of Zion National Park.
Stop 7: Weeping Rock
Weeping Rock is the seventh stop on the shuttle route and the fourth along Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. From this stop, you can access the Weeping Rock Trail, East Rim Trail, Observation Point Trail, and Hidden Canyon Trail.
Weeping Rock Trail
The Weeping Rock Trail, which is the shortest in the park, is a steep 0.5-mile (800 meter) round-trip trail that ends at an alcove with a natural hanging garden. Moss, flowers, and other plants cling to the rock. They’re fed by water seeping down the side of the mountain.
The path underneath the alcove is paved and there are interpretive panels along the way. At the end of the alcove, you can look down at a natural pool much like the ones on the Emerald Pools Trail.
Looking back towards Zion Canyon, there’s some spectacular scenery. If you stand under Weeping Rock and look up to the left, you can get a great perspective of the Great White Throne.
Stop 8: Big Bend
Next is Big Bend, where you can stop and see a few more mountains. To the left is the Organ, in the center is the Great White Throne, and to the right is Angels Landing. An interpretive panel explains that an early Mormon settler named the area Zion in the 1860s because it seemed like a heavenly place, therefore inspiring others to give religious names to different natural features.
Stop 9: Temple of Sinawava
The final stop along the shuttle route is the Temple of Sinawava, a natural amphitheatre carved by the Virgin River. At this point, the canyon starts to become extremely narrow. From there, you can access Riverside Walk, which eventually heads into the Narrows.
Riverside Walk
Riverside Walk is at the Temple of Sinawava shuttle stop. It’s a very easy 1-mile (1.6 kilometers) one-way paved trail that follows the path of the Virgin River.
In this section of the park, Zion Canyon gets extremely narrow and flash floods can be a safety issue. Before heading out on the trail, check the flash flood warning level. When I visited, it was red, which means that flash floods were expected in many of the slot canyons in the park.
Riverside Walk starts alongside a fence and the trail eventually reaches the Virgin River. You can veer off the trail and walk down to the river’s edge.
The trail then follows the river as the canyon begins to narrow.
If you look up, you can see hanging gardens, much like the ones on the Weeping Rock Trail. Sometimes there’s nothing but a huge rock clinging to the side of the mountain just above you.
The trail continues alongside the river, and the canyon continues to narrow. The views are still incredible, and you might even be lucky enough to spot some wildlife.
At the very end of the Riverside Walk is the beginning of the Narrows Trail. It requires some wading through the river into the canyon as it gets even more narrow. This is where flash floods become a serious danger.
Zion-Mount Carmel Highway
The Zion-Mount Carmel Highway is a scenic drive through Zion National Park. It was built between 1927 and 1930 to allow access to the park from the east. It’s 25 miles (40 kilometers) long and connects the park to US 89 at Mount Carmel Junction. The highway was added to the National Register of Historic Places on July 7, 1987.
Construction of the road required a tunnel through the Great Arch. It’s 5,613 feet (1,711 meters) long and at the time of its completion it was the longest non-urban tunnel in the country. It operates as a two-way tunnel, but becomes one-way when an oversized vehicle passes through.
There are plenty of opportunities to stop and take photos at unmarked pullouts along the road. Traffic, however, can be an issue due to the tunnel as well as several curves and hairpin turns. It’s best to drive slowly and carefully, and be prepared to wait to pass through the tunnel.
Canyon Overlook Trail
Just before the eastern entrance to the tunnel is a parking lot for the Canyon Overlook Trail. It’s a 1-mile (1.6 kilometer) round-trip trail up to scenic views of lower Zion Canyon and Pine Creek Canyon. The lot was completely full both times we passed by, so I’ll have to save it for next time.
Checkerboard Mesa Viewpoint
We only made one stop along the road to snap a photo of Checkerboard Mesa and the surrounding area. The viewpoint is just inside the park’s east entrance. Checkerboard Mesa is a 6,520-foot (1,990 meter) Navajo sandstone plateau named for the crosshatch pattern on its surface that resembles a checkerboard. The pattern is a remnant of ancient sand dunes.
