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Urfa, officially Şanlıurfa, is a major city in Southeastern Anatolia. Here’s a detailed guide on what to see in and around the old town.
Urfa is known as the City of Prophets, as many Muslim and Jewish sources claim it was the birthplace of Abraham. Job, Jethro, and Elijah are all said to have lived there as well.
Balıklıgöl
The most visited attraction in Urfa is Balıklıgöl, which literally translates to Fish Lake. In Jewish and Islamic tradition, the lake is where Nimrod threw Abraham into a fire.
According to tradition, Abraham rejected the claim that Nimrod, the ruler of Urfa, was God. He destroyed idols worshipped by the locals and incited them (“Burn him to avenge your gods, if you must act.” – Quran, 21:68).
A fire was lit on the site where the lake now exists. Abraham was thrown into the fire from the mountain above and it cooled under God’s command (“O fire, be cool and safe for Abraham!” – Quran, 21:69). The fire became a lake, the glowing embers turned into goldfish, and the surrounding area became a rose garden.
The fish in the lake are regarded as holy and it’s forbidden to catch or eat them. Today, visitors can buy fish food and are encouraged to feed them, as there are no food sources for them to survive naturally.
Halil-ür Rahman Mosque
The Halil-ür Rahman Mosque (Halil-ür Rahman Camii) is on the west side of Balıklıgöl. Also known as the Döşeme Mosque (Döşeme Camii), it was originally built in 504 by Urfisyus, a Christian priest, as the Church of the Virgin Mary. The church was converted to a mosque during the reign of Abbasid Caliph al-Ma’mun (786-833) in the early 9th century.
The original mosque has not survived. It was completely rebuilt in 1819-20 on a similar plan. The mosque is on a square plan with three aisles. Two of them are vaulted while the third is topped by a small dome.
The oldest surviving part of the mosque is the minaret, which was built by the Ayyubids in 1211. It’s a square tower divided into three sections.
The room on the west side of the mosque is regarded as the place where Abraham fell into the fire. The water flowing from the fountain is believed to have healing properties, and many pilgrims go there to drink it. There’s a glass floor where you can see the fish swimming underneath.
Al-Ma’mun also added a madrasa, which curves around the west side of the lake. By the Ottoman period, it was functioning as a dervish tekke. It was rebuilt as a madrasa in 1808-09 and renovated in 1871-72.
Tomb of Buluntu Hacı Abdurrahman
Attached to the east side of the mosque is the tomb of Buluntu Hacı Abdurrahman (1865-1968). He taught in the Halil-ür Rahman Madrasa for several years. Many of his students who became imams and muftis. When he died, he was buried next to his teacher, Hacı Mustafa.
Tomb of Sheikh Ali al-Shadhili
Nearby is the tomb of Sheikh Ali al-Shadhili (d. 1661). He was originally from Tunisia and a descendant of Sheikh Abu al-Hasan al-Shadhili (1196-1258), the founder of the Shadhili order. He settled in Urfa after living in the Erenköy neighborhood of Istanbul for several years, and founded a dervish lodge to spread the Shadhili order.
Rızvaniye Mosque
The Rızvaniye Mosque (Rızvaniye Camii) sits along the north side of Balıklıgöl. It was built by Rıdvan Ahmed Pasha, the Governor of Raqqa, in 1736. There’s a single minaret on the east side.
The entrance portal was built by using dual colored stone. The door was made using the Kundekari technique, inlaying pieces of wood without using any nails.
The prayer hall is topped by three domes and is lit by windows surrounding the entire building. One of the most interesting features is the minbar, which is carved out of stone and suspended from the wall to the right of the mihrab.
A U-shaped madrasa surrounds the courtyard in front of the mosque. In the center is a nice green space with several trees. The south side features attractive stone arches with space overlooking Balıklıgöl.
Today, the student cells of the madrasa serve as a craft market, where local masters practice and sell their art. Workshops for filigree, ney production (a type of flute), calligraphy, ceramics, and other arts can be found.
Ayn Zeliha Park
Ayn Zeliha Park (Ayn Zeliha Parkı) is the beautiful green space south of Balıklıgöl. It’s full of paths and tall shady trees and is a great place to beat the heat.
In the center of the park is Ayn Zeliha Lake (Ayn Zeliha Gölü). It’s said to have been formed by the tears of Ayn Zeliha, the daughter of Nimrod, who had fallen in love with Abraham. It’s also filled with sacred fish.
The lake has a fountain in the center. A stream leads all the way up to Balıklıgöl and back around to the lake forming a small island. Visitors can hire a rowboat to take them around the lake and also have the chance to buy fish food and feed the fish.
My favorite part about Ayn Zeliha Lake are all the cafés surrounding it. I really enjoy sitting next to the lake having a coffee or tea and taking in the scenery. You can also cool off with an ice cream or freshly squeezed juice, smoke nargile, or grab a bite to eat.
Hasan Padishah Mosque
On the east end of the park is the Hasan Padishah Mosque (Hasan Padişah Camii). It was built in the second half of the 15th century by Aq Qoyunlu ruler Uzun Hasan (1423-1478). The mosque was repaired in 1574 during the reign of Ottoman Sultan Selim II, and again in 1575, 1585, 1796, and 1859. Water from Balıklıgöl passes through the courtyard, which features a single minaret on the northeast corner. I didn’t visit the mosque on my first trip to Urfa and it was closed for restoration on my most recent trip.
Mevlid-i Halil Complex
The Mevlid-i Halil complex sits on the south side of Ayn Zeliha Park. It incorporates the cave where Abraham is believed to have been born. The main features of the complex are on a courtyard on the southeast corner. The courtyard takes its current shape from rooms added by Ahmed Bican Pasha in 1855 and Dervish Musa in 1887.
Abraham’s Birthplace
The most important space at the complex is the cave in which many Muslim and Jewish sources claim Abraham was born. According to tradition, when Nimrod was informed a child would destroy his kingdom, he ordered all children to be killed. Abraham’s pregnant mother learned of the decree and hid in a cave. After giving birth, she secretly visited the cave every day to care for him. Abraham didn’t lived inside until he was 15 years old.
The cave is separated into sections for men and women. On the men’s side is a small room with low doors. The door to the right opens to the mosque while the door directly ahead opens to another small room where the cave can be seen. The cave is behind a protective sheet of glass. The water in the cave is believed to have healing properties.
Original Mevlid-i Halil Mosque
The original Mevlid-i Halil Mosque is next to the cave. It was originally a pagan temple built during the Seleucid period and was later converted to a synagogue. Around 150, during the Early Christian period, it became the Church of the Christians. The Byzantines built the Hagia Sophia of Edessa nearby.
Finally, Muhammed Salih Pasha converted the church to a mosque in 1523 during the Ottoman period. A small minaret was added on the wall between the mosque and the cave. The mosque has a rectangular plan. It was repaired by Muhammed Mes’ud in 1816 and Mahmud oğlu Mahmud in 1852, and restored in 1951.
Tomb of Sheikh Osman Avni
On the east side of the cave is the tomb of Sheikh Osman Avni (d. 1883), who once served at the mosque. Some of his possessions are on display in the cave and mosque. He’s buried alongside 12 other holy men.
Tomb of Bediüzzaman Said Nursî
The tomb of Bediüzzaman Said Nursî (1878-1960) is on the northwest corner of the courtyard. He was born in Bitlis and was a famous Muslim scholar and author. Three days before his death, he asked his students to take him to Urfa. He stayed in room 27 of the İpek Palas Hotel.
After his death on March 23, 1960, people from all over the country flocked to Urfa for his burial at the Mevlid-i Halil complex. On July 12, his body was moved to a secret location on the orders of the government. The location of the grave is not known today.
Relics Room
A room on the east side of the courtyard at the Mevlid-i Halil complex is set aside to display relics related to the Prophet Muhammad. The items on display include a beard hair and a footprint of the Prophet as well as a holy cloth.
Modern Mevlid-i Halil Mosque
The modern Mevlid-i Halil Mosque (Mevlid-i Halil Camii) was built in 1986. It’s a large domed structure next to the original mosque.
A rectangular courtyard sits on the north side of the mosque. It’s surrounded by a colonnaded portico on three sides and is paved with marble.
Two more square courtyards sit on the east and west sides of that courtyard. The courtyard on the west is the larger of the two. Each of the three courtyards has a fountain in the center. There’s also a cemetery behind the mosque.
The prayer hall of the mosque is very beautifully decorated from floor to ceiling. There are tiles along the walls and columns, and geometric and floral patterns on the arches. The mihrab and minbar are made of marble.
The mosque is topped by a single dome. A large crystal chandelier hangs from the dome. There are great views from the upper galleries on either side of the prayer hall.
Urfa Castle
Urfa Castle (Urfa Kalesi) towers over the south side of the Ayn Zeliha Park. The path up to the castle is behind the Mevlid-i Halil Mosque. Admission for foreigners is €3 (as of September 2024) but it’s currently closed for restoration.
The castle was first settled during the Neolithic period around 9500 BC. The north side of the castle is a steep rock. The other three sides are protected by defensive trenches carved directly into the bedrock.
Urfa Castle consists of an inner and outer castle. The inner castle has 25 bastions and 1 gate. Some of the bastions have survived to this day.
Although the castle dates back to ancient times, the walls we see today were built between 812 and 814 during the Abbasid period. They’ve been repaired several times by subsequent civilizations, including the Crusaders and the Ottomans.
The most interesting feature of the castle are the two Corinthian columns standing on top. They were built between 240 and 242. They’re situated 14 meters apart and each stand 17.25 meters high. A Syriac inscription on the eastern column reads:
“I am Aftuha, the son of commander Barshamash (the son of the sun). I built these columns and the statue for my ladyship Queen Shalmed, the daughter of Manu”
Structures belonging to various civilizations from the Neolithic through the Ottoman period have been discovered during excavations. I was able to visit the castle before the work started and hope to see it after it reopens to the public.
Mehmet Göktepe Park
Mehmet Göktepe Park (Mehmet Göktepe Parkı) is on the path up to the castle. It’s on the eastern side in front of a cemetery. There are some fantastic views of the city from there.
Urfa Bazaar
East of Ayn Zeliha Park is a maze of covered streets making up the bazaar. You can enter off Haşimiye Square (Haşimiye Meydanı) or from another entrance east of the Mevlid-i Halil complex.
The bazaar is a great place to experience local life, with residents bustling about the markets buying all kinds of goods. It consists of countless shops selling food, spices, clothing, jewelry, household goods, cosmetics, electronics, and more. There are also repair shops as well as tea houses and restaurants.
Gümrük Han
The bazaar is made up of a collection of caravanserais that were once important to Silk Road traders. The biggest of these, Gümrük Han, is on the north side. It was built between 1563 and 1566 by Behram Pasha, the governor of Urfa. It continues to be one of the most important social and cultural buildings in the city. Tailors operate on the upper level while the lower level is full of bead sellers and teahouses. Unfortunately, my only good photo is of the exterior along Haşimiye Square. I promise I’ll get a lot more photos on my next trip.
Bedesten
The Bedesten is attached to the south side of Gümrük Han. It was built by Behram Pasha at the same time as Gümrük Han and consist of a series of vaults covered by domes. Today, it hosts several textile and clothing shops.
Hacı Kamil Han
Hacı Kamil Han, also known as Çukur Han, is across the street to the east of the Bedesten. It was built by Hacı Kamil Efendi during the Ottoman period in 1823. It’s made of cut stone and has two levels. There’s a fountain in the courtyard. Most of the occupants are tailors.
Mençek Han
Mençek Han is the fourth structure I visited in the bazaar. It was constructed during the Mamluk period, shortly after 1373. In the courtyard of the two-level caravanserai is a fountain and café. It’s south of the Bedesten.
Old Town of Urfa
The old town of Urfa is a huge area to the north of the bazaar and Balıklıgöl. It’s fun to get lost in the narrow stone streets, although there aren’t very many attractions. The old town is cut in half by Divanyolu Street, and most attractions are just north of the bazaar.
Mevlevihane Mosque
First, a few steps east of Haşimiye Square is the Mevlevihane Mosque (Mevlevihane Camii). It was built in 1740 as a dervish lodge for the Mevlevi order of Sufis. After the dervish lodges were closed by the Turkish government in 1925, it reopened as a mosque. It has a square plan and is covered by a single dome.
58 Square
Winding east through the neighborhood is 58 Square (58 Meydanı). It’s named for the 58 people who perished after a public bath collapsed. The Kurtuluş Primary School is on the south side while the Sheikh Saffet Lodge (Şeyh Saffet Tekkesi) and fountain, built in 1891, is on the east side. The Regie Church and a synagogue can be found nearby.
Regie Church
The Regie Church (Reji Kilisesi), or the Church of Saints Peter and Paul, was built in 1861 atop the ruins of a 6th century church. It was in use by the Assyrian community until 1924 when they fled to Aleppo, Syria. After that, the building was used as a tobacco factory and later as a grape warehouse.
The church was restored by the city in 1998 and opened as a cultural center on May 24, 2002. Tombstones and other important artifacts were relocated to the Şanlıurfa Museum.
Imam Aslan Mosque
The Imam Aslan Mosque (İmam Aslan Camii) sits north of the bazaar at the corner of Balıklıgöl Street and 12 Eylül Street. It was once known as the Abdülvahid Lodge (Abdülvahid Tekkesi). I can’t find any other information about it.
Grand Mosque of Urfa
A couple blocks north down Divanyolu Street you’ll find the Grand Mosque of Urfa (Urfa Ulu Camii). It was built in 1170 on the site of a Christian church known to the Arabs as the Red Church. The mosque features a large courtyard with a cemetery on the west side.
The prayer hall, which is on the south side of the complex, consists of three long aisles with cross vaulted ceilings. Unfortunately, it was closed for restoration during my latest visit to Urfa.
The minaret, built in the late 12th century, is on the northeast corner. The madrasa on the southeast corner was built in the late 18th century to replace the original madrasa built by the Ayyubids in 1191.
Fırfırlı Mosque
The Fırfırlı Mosque (Fırfırlı Camii) is on the west side of the old town. It features some of the most impressive stonework in Urfa. Pay special attention to the layered pink marble around the entrance.
The Fırfırlı Mosque was originally built in the 12th century by the Crusaders as the Church of the Twelve Apostles. The church was repaired by Sultan Abdülaziz in 1865 and served as an Armenian Evangelical church.
After the majority of Christians fled Urfa in 1924, the church sat empty until it was converted to a prison in 1930. In 1956, it became a mosque. The bell tower was rebuilt, and a stone mihrab and minbar were placed on the southern wall.
Clock Tower
At the north end of the old town is an attractive clock tower in the middle of a roundabout. I can’t find any relevant information about it.
Germuş Church
If you have your own transportation and a sense of adventure, you can head up to the ruins of the Germuş Church (Germuş Kilisesi). It’s on the outskirts of Urfa 10 kilometers to the northeast.
The official name of the Armenian church is Surp Asdvadzadzin. It was likely built in the early 19th century and restored by Hagop Ardvisyan in 1881. It went out of use after the 1915 Armenian Genocide.
The church has two stories and is made of cut stone. The façade features three pointed arches. There are three small domes above the narthex and one main dome atop the nave. There are still traces of paint and crosses in the apse and around the dome.
There are plans to restore the Germuş Church and open it to tourism (as of September 2024). Local authorities want tourists to combine it with a visit to Göbekli Tepe, which is only 5 kilometers away. If you do plan to visit, be very careful as the structure is unstable.
