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Mardin is a fascinating city in Southeastern Anatolia. It’s known for its stone architecture and ethnic diversity.
Introduction to Mardin
Mardin derives from Marida, a Syriac word borrowed from Kurdish meaning fortress. It was part of the Kingdom of Osroene, which was ruled by the Abgarid dynasty, from roughly 150 BC to 250 AD. The city was then incorporated into the Roman then Byzantine Empires before falling to the Arabs in 640.
The Seljuks took Mardin in 1085 followed by the Artuqids in 1103. Many of the city’s greatest architectural achievements took place under them. Although the Mongols defeated the Artuqids in the middle of the 13th century, the Artuqids submitted to Mongol leader Hulegu Khan (c. 1271-1265) and continued to rule Mardin as a vassal state until 1408, when the Kara Koyunlu took over.
The Aq Qoyunlu captured the city in 1451 and ruled from the city until the Safavids defeated them in 1507. They surrendered to the Ottomans in late 1516 or early 1517.
Mardin throughout its history had a significant Assyrian and Armenian population. That came to an end in 1915 when several local Christians were exterminated as part of the Assyrian and Armenian Genocides. Today, the city is predominantly Kurdish and Arabic with very small Assyrian and Turkish communities.
Mardin is a major tourist destination in Turkey as well as an important agricultural center. It’s known for terraced stone houses, some with internal courtyards and ornate carvings around the windows. The city also makes a great base for exploring the Tur Abdin region, including Midyat and the Dara archaeological site.
In this post, I’ll cover some of the major historic and cultural attractions in the old town. I’ll start on the west side of town and work my way east.
Getting to Mardin
The nearest airport to the city is Mardin Airport (MQM). There are flights from both Istanbul airports, Ankara, and Izmir (as of September 2024). It’s about a half hour from the city. Havaş runs airport shuttles for 120₺ (as of September 2024). Otherwise, Mardin is well connected to other cities in the region by bus. The bus terminal is east of the old town.
Getting Around Mardin
The old town is easy to explore on foot. If you want to get to the Kasımiye Madrasa or Deyrulzafaran Monastery, you can hire a taxi. To get further afield and explore Midyat, the Tur Abdin region, and Dara, it’s better to have your own car or you can join an organized tour.
Where to Stay in Mardin
There are lots of choices for accommodation, many in traditional stone mansions that have been converted to hotels. We spent two nights in town.
Zinciriye Hotel
We stayed at the Zinciriye Hotel, which is conveniently located in the middle of the old town just underneath the Zinciriye Madrasa. It’s situated in an old multilevel stone mansion. There are beautiful views from the terrace, staff is friendly and helpful, and prices are reasonable.
I had a basic room that was comfortable and clean, and air conditioning was phenomenal. There were no windows in the room which was fine, but if you do prefer natural light there are rooms with windows. The bathroom definitely needed an upgrade and was a little musty. Finally, a decent breakfast is included in the rate.
Where to Eat in Mardin
Mardin has lots of great restaurants in the old town. Many of them serve unique local dishes, and some have lively dance nights with fixed menus, especially on weekends.
Seyr-i Merdin
I can highly recommend Seyr-i Merdin, which is in the center of the old town. It’s a restaurant with a rooftop terrace and 360° views of Mardin. Staff is friendly but service is a little slow. Also, it was cash only at the time we visited.
Seyr-i Merdin has a menu full of local specialties you can’t find anywhere else. We started with a few complimentary dishes, and I had the Mardin plate as my main course. It’s a sampler of a few of the local dishes on the menu.
Tarihi Sultan Sofrası
On the ground floor of Seyr-i Merdin is Tarihi Sultan Sofrası. They serve the usual Turkish dishes including kebabs and pide and have decent service. Unfortunately, most of the items on the menu were unavailable when we stopped in for dinner. I had the adana kebab which was decent.
Siras Winehouse
We had a great lunch at Siras Winehouse, which is in the center of the old town. They serve pizzas and pasta dishes with a local flare as well as a few other items. I had a delicious calzone. Their wine is decent.
Revan Restaurant
We stopped in to the Revan Restaurant, next to the Latifiye Mosque, for a quick Turkish coffee. The dining room is in a stone house but we sat in their garden under the shade of a tree. The coffee was very good and I’d like to go back and try a meal.
Helvacı Yakub Efendi
If you want to treat yourself to a nice dessert, head to Helvacı Yakub Efendi. They serve amazing irmik helvası, which is made with semolina halva. We tried each of the three flavors – chocolate, white chocolate, and pistachio. They were all delicious.
Sherbet Seller
Next door to the Mardin Living Museum is a friendly man selling sherbet out of his house. It’s made with several different ingredients and is excellent.
What to Buy in Mardin
Mardin has some locally produced items you should look out for. First of all, the Syriac community produces wine, and there are plenty of little wine shops in the old town. In all honesty, the wine isn’t that great (there are some that are downright terrible) but it’s worth popping into the shops to give it a try.
Bıttım soap is a popular item to buy. It’s a 100% natural soap made with pistachio extract and you can find it all over town. It’s said to be very good for the skin and hair, especially for anyone with skin conditions.
Filigree is a silver jewelry that’s been produced in the region for centuries, traditionally by the Syriac community. You can find it in jewelry shops in town as well as at the Mardin Living Museum.
Dried fruits and nuts make a very good snack as you travel around Turkey. Finally, if you’re in town during cherry season, get some Mardin cherries. You won’t be disappointed!
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Sheikh Çabuk Mosque
Starting on the west side of old town is the Sheikh Çabuk Mosque (Şeyh Çabuk Camii). It was built in the Aq Qoyunlu period in the second half of the 15th century. The entrance is down a set of stairs from the main street and through a small courtyard.
The vaulted prayer hall is long and divided into two sections by three thick pillars. Inside is the tomb of Abdullah Enes El-Cüheyni, a messenger of the Prophet Muhammad. He earned the nickname Sheikh Çabuk, which translates to “quick”, because he delivered news and messages very quickly.
Forty Martyrs Church
Hidden down an alley north of the main road is the Forty Martyrs Church (Kırklar Kilisesi). This Syriac Orthodox church was originally built in 569 and dedicated to Mor Behnam and his sister Saro. It’s part of a large complex with a courtyard containing a school built in 1789 and patriarchal residence built in 1850. The school operated until 1928.
Inside the church are the remains of the Forty Martyrs. In the middle of the 3rd century, Roman Emperor Decius was heavily persecuting Christians. 40 soldiers of Greek origin rebelled against these persecutions and were arrested and thrown into an icy pond near Sebasteia (Σεβάστεια – today’s Sivas) at midnight. According to Christian tradition, a bright light appeared over the water and the soldiers were rewarded with crowns. They froze to death and their remains were taken to the church in 1170. A large painting on the wall depicts the story. Unfortunately, photography is forbidden inside the church.
Cumhuriyet Square
Further east along the main road is Cumhuriyet Square (Cumhuriyet Meydanı), which is the main square in Mardin. There’s a statue of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938), the founder of the Turkish Republic, as well as fantastic views of Mardin Castle.
Mardin Museum
On the north side of the square is the Mardin Museum (Mardin Müzesi). It was built by Patriarch Ignatios Behnam Banni in 1895 as the Syriac Catholic Patriarchate (Süryani Katolik Patrikhanesi) and includes the Church of the Virgin Mary. The building was transferred to the Ministry of Culture in 1988, restored, and reopened as the museum in 1995.
The museum is open daily except Mondays and admission for foreigners is €7 (as of September 2024). It displays finds from archaeological excavations in and around Mardin as well as items related to religion, trade, and daily life used throughout the city’s history. Unfortunately, it was closed when we walked by so I’ll have to check it out next time.
Latifiye Mosque
A block south of Cumhuriyet Square is the Latifiye Mosque (Latifiye Camii), also known as the Abdullatif Mosque (Abdullatif Camii). It was built in 1371 by Abdullatif bin Abdullah, who served under Artuqid sultans Melik Salih and Melik Muzaffer.
A monumental gate leads to the outer courtyard where there’s an ablutions fountain. The gate is one of the last Artuqid works in Mardin and features beautifully carved geometric motifs and stars on both the outer and inner sides.
The original minaret was built by the Governor of Egypt, Muhammed Ziya Tayyar Pasha. The current minaret was built in 1845 by Gürcü Mehmed Vasıf Pasha (d. 1865), the Governor of Mosul.
Another gate opens to the inner courtyard, where you’ll find the entrance to the mosque as well as the cells of a madrasa. There are three doors to the mosque.
The prayer hall is topped by a dome. Inside is a minbar and muezzin’s loge carved out of stone. They’re unique examples of late Seljuk works.
Mardin Protestant Church
Hidden in the alley north of the mosque you’ll find the Mardin Protestant Church (Mardin Protestan Kilisesi). It was founded in 1858 when American missionary Frederic Williams arrived in Mardin. The church building was originally a house. It was conveyed to a church and opened in 1867, but it closed due to the congregation leaving the city after the 1960 coup. It didn’t reopen to worship until June 2013.
The building was restored between 2013 and 2015 and some of the original items from 1860 were cleaned and put on display. One of those items is the piano, which was brought from Boston.
Mar Hırmız Chaldean Church
Back along the main road, a short walk east of Cumhuriyet Square is Mar Hırmız Chaldean Catholic Church (Mar Hırmız Keldani Kilisesi). Built in 397, it’s one of the oldest and best preserved ancient churches in the world. The buildings surrounding the church were added in 1890. Artwork inside the church dates back to the 18th century. Admission is 20₺ per person (as of September 2024).
The library, combined with the library of Mar Petyun in Diyarbakır in the 1960s, contains an important collection of Syriac manuscripts. The egg in the courtyard represents the egg of the mythical Shahmaran, a half-snake, half-female creature. You’ll also find inscriptions in both Assyrian and Ottoman Turkish.
Mardin Girls Vocational School
The Mardin Girls Vocational School (Mardin Kız Meslek Lisesi) is a short walk further east and up a stone stairway. The two wings of the building opened as a high school (Mekteb-i Rüştiye) on May 11, 1892, and later converted to the Girls Vocational School.
The school sits on the site of the 14th century Muzafferiye Madrasa (Muzafferiye Medresesi) and blocks from the madrasa were used in the construction. The monumental entrance is a fine example of Mardin stonework and is one of the symbols of the city. We had to admire the buildings from behind a fence.
Zinciriye Madrasa
Uphill behind the school is the Zinciriye Madrasa (Zinciriye Medresesi). Also known as the Sultan Isa Madrasa (Sultan İsa Medresesi), it was built by Sultan Isa, the penultimate Artuqid ruler of Mardin, and completed in 1385. Admission is 40₺ per person (as of September 2024).
The Zinciriye Madrasa is a complex on two terraced levels consisting of a mosque, tomb, and two courtyards. It measures 45 x 25 meters and there’s a monumental entrance on the east side. In the past, it held the Mardin Museum.
Lower Courtyard
The current entrance opens to the lower courtyard with a vaulted portico on the south side. The center of the courtyard is decorated with beautiful flowers as well as a pool symbolizing the Sufi philosophy of life from birth to death and after death. The water from the fountain in the iwan represents birth flowing into infancy followed by childhood and youth. The final narrow groove represents old age and the water gathered in the pool represents judgement day.
Tomb
The tomb is on the southwest corner of the lower level. It consists of a square chamber topped by a dome and another smaller chamber attached to it. The tomb was meant for Sultan Isa but he was never buried there. Instead there’s a sarcophagus in the smaller chamber that’s been there since the end of the 20th century.
Mosque
The mosque is on the north side of the courtyard. The entrance sits along a long stone corridor that connects the lower courtyard to the monumental entrance.
The mosque is rectangular in shape and divided into three square sections, with the middle section topped by a dome. The minbar is to the right of the mihrab and is made of stone.
Upper Courtyard
Staircases lead to a portico overlooking the lower courtyard. A door leads to an upper courtyard surrounded by a series of rooms. They may have been used by the students at the madrasa.
Terrace
A stairway leads up to the terrace, where you can get up close to both domes of the complex. There are also excellent views of Mardin and looking south towards Syria.
Bazaar of Mardin
Back south across the main road is the bazaar of Mardin. In the maze of roads you’ll find everything from souvenirs and clothing to household goods and pastries.
During our visit on a Sunday, almost all the shops in the western half of the bazaar were shut down. As we walked east more shops started to be open. There were shops selling shawls, bıttım soaps, football shirts, everyday clothing, nuts and dried fruits, copper goods, and much more.
Revaklı Bazaar
Near the eastern end we found the Revaklı Bazaar (Revaklı Çarşı), also known as the Sipahiler Bazaar (Sipahiler Çarşısı) or the Tellallar Bazaar (Tellallar Çarşısı). It was built in the 17th century and consists of a row of shops behind deep vaulted porches on both sides of the road. The Revaklı Bazaar was restored in 2002. Only a few shops were open when we passed through.
Grand Mosque of Mardin
The Grand Mosque of Mardin is south of the bazaar. It was originally built in 1176 during the Artuqid period but has undergone several renovations since then. Only the north wall of the original construction remains.
The Grand Mosque is on the south side of a large rectangular courtyard with an ablutions fountain in the center. It measures 45 x 13 meters, and there’s an arcade with 11 cross-vaulted bays on the north side. The six bays on the west side have been closed off to form a prayer hall.
There were initially two minarets but only one has survived. It features teardrop motifs and medallions on the lower two sections. Most of the minaret above the base was rebuilt in 1888.
The rectangular prayer hall is divided by arches into three rows and seven aisled. It measures 51 x 13 meters. In the center is the mihrab and minbar. A hair from the beard of Prophet Muhammad is displayed in a niche to the left of the mihrab.
Mardin Living Museum
The Mardin Living Museum (Mardin Yaşayan Müze) is a fantastic private museum hidden down a quiet alley. It displays and keeps alive local arts and traditions that have formed the cultural identity of Mardin since ancient times. It’s across the main road north of the Revaklı Bazaar. Admission is 40₺ per person (as of September 2024).
The Mardin Living Museum is housed in a two-story 17th century mansion built by an Egyptian family. There are about seven different rooms demonstrating arts important to the city. Six of them were open at the time of our visit. Furthermore, each master is from a different ethnic or religious group, highlighting the rich cultural diversity of Mardin. You’ll also find a café on the terrace.
Sections of the Mardin Living Museum
The first section inside the entrance is the filigree workshop, where master artist Metin Bayruğ, a local Syriac Orthodox Christian, demonstrated how he creates his work. Filigree has been practiced in Mardin for over 3,000 years and requires a great deal of patience. Several beautiful pieces of jewelry are also for sale.
Next door in the coppersmith’s workshop, master coppersmith Cihat Özcan gave a demonstration of his work and explained that he learned it from his father. Along with the impressive pieces for sale are colorful framed representations of the Shahmaran, a mythical half-snake half-female creature prevalent in Kurdish and Turkic folklore.
Upstairs, an enthusiastic woman gave us demonstrations in four different rooms. The first room was dedicated to the reyhani, a local dance specific to Mardin. Next we learned about dengbêj, a Kurdish tradition of oral literature using song.
In the next room, we were treated to a short erbane concert. The erbane is a wooden-framed drum covered by an animal skin. It has been used in the region for several millennia and is possibly the oldest tradition covered in the museum.
The final room covered lead casting, which is a ritual used to expel evil spirits and protect from the evil eye as well as tell the future. It involves pouring molten lead into water.
Old Mardin Post Office
Continuing east along the main road is the Old Mardin Post Office (Eski PTT Binası). This elegant structure is one of the best examples of local architecture. Admission is 20₺ (as of September 2024).
It was built in 1890 as a residence for the Şatana family and designed by Lole Giso, a local Armenian architect. In 1953, the mansion was converted to the local post office branch. It now serves as a practice hotel for the tourism faculty of Artuklu University.
Visitors are able to wander around the courtyard and walk up the gorgeous double staircase. Pay attention to the intricate stonework around the niches, windows, and doors.
Şehidiye Madrasa
The Şehidiye Madrasa (Şehidiye Medresesi) is across the street Old Post Office and down a set of stairs. It was founded in 1214 by Melik Mansur Nasreddin Aslan, a ruler during the Artuqid period. Construction was completed in the middle of the 13th century under his son, Melik El Said.
The entrance to the complex, which was restored between 2004 and 2006, is through a tall monumental gate with ornate carvings. It’s covered by a hood at the top.
The courtyard is a nice open space surrounded by the madrasa on two sides and the mosque on the south side. On a north side is an iwan with a fountain symbolizing the Sufi philosophy of life from birth to death and after death. The water from the fountain represents birth flowing into infancy followed by childhood and youth. The final narrow groove represents old age and the water gathered in a pool in the center of the courtyard represents judgement day.
The original minaret collapsed and was rebuilt in 1914 by local Armenian architect Lole Giso. It has two balconies and a double staircase inside.
The mosque is on the south side of the complex. The prayer hall is divided into two sections and features a beautiful minbar. It’s made of walnut and was created by Ali bin Sencer. The mihrab is carved out of stone.
Mardin Governorship
A short walk east is the Mardin Governorship (Mardin Valiliği). It was built in the late 19th century and houses the offices of Mardin province. It’s one of the most impressive Late Ottoman period structures in the city.
Sakıp Sabancı Mardin City Museum
Across from the government building is the Sakıp Sabancı Mardin City Museum (Sakıp Sabancı Mardin Kent Müzesi). It’s a fantastic place to learn about the history of the city and its diverse ethnic and religious makeup. Admission is 100₺ (as of June 2024) and it’s open daily except Mondays.
First of all, just outside the elegant stone entrance to the exhibition hall is a Chevrolet used as a taxi by Yahya Muin (1913-2007). He drove it as a taxi for over 50 years, often escorting presidents, politicians, and VIP guests to Mardin. The Syriac Orthodox Metropolitan of Mardin, Philoxenos Yuhanon Dolabani (1885-1969), was a frequent customer. Muin’s children donated the car to the museum in 2019.
Local Industries
The permanent collection starts with a timeline of Mardin history followed by displays on the castle and local traditions and industries. Traditions include music while industries such as weaving, cherry harvesting, and agriculture are highlighted.
Ethnographic Section
Next is an ethnographic section containing furniture and everyday items used by locals. A typical living room and bedroom as well as early 20th century coffee and tea sets are on display.
One of the most interesting items is a taht. It’s a “throne” made of ash wood with low railings on three side. They were typically built by Armenian craftsmen and used on the rooftops of Mardin homes, especially on hot summer nights. Residents would sit on cotton mattresses and cool off while conversing or stargazing. Today’s tahts are made of metal or poplar.
Hamam culture is covered, with stoves and other items used in hamams, as well as cloth printing. Hand printing on fabrics dates back to 2500 BC and is associated with Assyrians. They originally used vegetable dyes to decorate cotton fabrics with hand-made stamps. The Syriac Şımmeshindi family, one of the most famous in Mardin, has been printing since at least the early 19th century. Their work can be found in Syriac churches all over the Tur Abdin region.
The final part of the ethnographic covers more of the arts and crafts practiced in Mardin. This included filigree artists, coppersmiths, woodworking, and stonemasonry.
The displays exhibit some of the finest examples of each craft and the tools used to produce them. The stonemasonry section includes Islamic tombstones with calligraphy. There’s also a small oral history section with video interviews of former residents of Mardin living all over the world.
Temporary Exhibition
In the basement of the museum is a space used for temporary exhibitions. We were fortunate on our visit to see an exhibition of art by Halil Altındere, a contemporary artist from Mardin.
Altındere uses videos, sculptures, photographs, and multimedia installations to focus on pop culture, subcultures, everyday life, and social issues. His art is fascinating and at times absurd, bringing attention to his subjects in not-so-subtle ways. Among the works on display are a collection of “modernized” Ottoman paintings and a series of works dedicated to Syrian cosmonaut Muhammed Faris (1951-2024), who became a refugee in Turkey in 2012.
One of his most famous works on display is Köfte Airlines. It was created in collaboration with a group of refugees based in Çanakkale. He uses a decommissioned Airbus A300 to highlight “the perilous journeys refugees are compelled to undertake, juxtaposed with the hazardous conditions of ‘train surfing’ prevalent in impoverished and densely populated nations”. The work criticizes the migration and refugee policies of the European Union and “exposes the hypocritical and nationalist sentiments often encountered regarding this issue”.
Hatuniye Madrasa
A few steps east of the museum is the Hatuniye Madrasa (Hatuniye Medresesi). It was built by Sitti Radviyye, the mother of Artuqid Sultan Kutbettin İlgazi, between 1176 and 1185.
The entrance to the two-story madrasa is via the outer courtyard. It covers a rectangular area and is situated around a smaller inner courtyard. It has undergone several changes over time and the original appearance has been lost.
One room features the tombs of Sitti Radviyye and Sultan Kutbettin İlgazi. It has an intricately carved mihrab highlighting the rich stonework of the Artuqid period. A box to the right of the mihrab contains a supposed footprint of the Prophet Muhammad.
A small mosque is next to the tomb. It contains another fine mihrab as well as a firman signed by Sultan Abdülaziz on May 9, 1864, regarding the renewal of the professor’s contract.
Savurkapı Hamam
Next to the madrasa is the Savurkapı Hamam (Savurkapı Hamamı). It was built around 1177 at the same time as the madrasa. The hamam is still in service today.
Mardin Castle
Towering proudly above the city is Mardin Castle (Mardin Kalesi). Local legend states it was first constructed in the 4th century BC by a Babylonian Zoroastrian called Shad Buhari, who built it as a place to recover from a serious illness. Construction on the current structure started in the 10th century during the Hamdanid period and completed during the Artuqid period in the 11th century. It was partly restored during the reign of Ottoman Sultan Selim III.
During the Armenian Genocide in 1915, the castle served as a prison for Armenians awaiting execution. Since the middle of the 20th century, it has been used as a military base and is closed to the public. Local authorities have been working with the Turkish government since 2008 to close the base and open the castle to tourism.
Kasımiye Madrasa
The Kasımiye Madrasa (Kasımiye Medresesi) lies to the southwest of the old town of Mardin. Construction began in the early 15th century during the Artuqid period but was halted due to the Mongol invasions. It was completed by Aq Qoyunlu Sultan Kasım ibn Cihangir at the end of the 15th century. Admission is 30₺ (as of September 2024).
The Kasımiye Madrasa was one of the most important learning centers in the region until it closed during World War I. Medicine, chemistry, mathematics, and astronomy were taught in addition to religion.
Features of the Kasımiye Madrasa
The madrasa is entered through a monumental gate that happens to be one of the best examples of stonework in Mardin. It features vegetal and geometric motifs. The head teacher’s room was just opposite the entrance.
The madrasa itself is a two-story structure surrounding a central courtyard with porticoes on three sides. There are 23 rooms, with 11 on the lower floor and 12 on the upper floor. The doors to the classrooms are just over a meter tall, forcing the students who enter to bow to their teacher.
The fountain in the iwan on the north side of the courtyard has a special meaning. It symbolizes the Sufi philosophy of life from birth to death and after death. The water from the fountain represents birth flowing into infancy followed by childhood and youth. The final narrow groove represents old age and the water gathered in a pool in the center of the courtyard represents judgement day.
The mosque was on the southwest corner of the complex while there’s a small tomb with two graves. They’re believed to hold the remains of Kasım Bey and his sister.
Islamic Science and Art Museum
Today, the cells of the madrasa hosts the Islamic Science and Art Museum (İslam Bilim ve Sanat Müzesi). It displays models of contraptions built by Islamic scientists and inventors.
One item on display is a model of a ship designed by Zheng He (1371-1433), who led expeditions to Southeast Asia, India, West Asia, and East Africa from 1405 to 1433. His ships could apparently carry between 500 and 1,000 sailors on 4 decks and were nearly twice the length of any wooden ship ever recorded. The largest ship had 9 masts and was roughly 127 meters long and 52 meters wide.
