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Kars is a small city in the northeast corner of Turkey. It’s the gateway to the archaeological site of Ani and has plenty of attractions itself.
Introduction to Kars
Not much is known about Kars before the 10th century, when it served as the capital of Bagratid Armenia from 929 to 961. The city was taken by the Seljuks, led by Alp Arslan, in 1065. Shortly after, they relinquished control to a small vassal, who held it until the Kingdom of Georgia captured Kars in 1206. The Mongols took the city in 1246 followed by the Georgians again, then the Kara Koyunlu, Aq Qoyunlu, and Safavids. The Ottomans conquered Kars in 1586.
Later, in 1828, the Ottomans surrendered Kars to the Russians. During their rule, there was an influx of Armenians and Pontic Greeks leaving the Ottoman Empire. The Russians held the city until World War I and ceded it to the Ottoman Empire under the Treaty of Brest-Litovsk on March 3, 1918. However, under the Armistice of Mudros, it briefly became part of the Republic of Armenia.
After the dissolution of the Ottoman Empire, Turkish forces captured the city with little resistance on October 30, 1920, and Armenia officially ceded it under the Treaty of Alexandropol a few weeks later on December 2. That treaty was superseded by the Treaty of Kars, signed on October 23, 1921, between the Soviet Union and Turkey. This marked the end of the Armenian ethnic majority in Kars.
After World War II, the Soviets tried to annul the Treaty of Kars. In 1948, after Turkey gained the support of the United States, they dropped their claims.
My experience in Kars is limited to a hotel and restaurant. I spent the night after exploring Ani and left early the next morning due to a tight schedule. I plan to spend at least a full day there on my next trip to the region. Therefore, this post will be incomplete until then.
Getting to Kars
Kars is connected to the rest of Turkey by air and bus. Kars Harakani Airport, which opened in 1988, has daily direct flights from both airports in Istanbul. You can also fly from Izmir and Ankara (as of August 2024). The airport is only 10 minutes from the city center.
If you’re already in Eastern Anatolia, Kars is well connected to other cities in the region by bus. The bus terminal is only 10 minutes from the city center.
Where to Stay in Kars
There are plenty of choices for accommodation. We stayed in the city center.
Güngören Hotel
We spent the night at the Güngören Hotel, which is a simple hotel in the city center. It opened in 2012 and has 37 rooms. Staff is friendly and it’s a short walk from good restaurants and a few attractions. There’s street parking right out front.
My room was fine for the night. It was spacious and comfortable and came with a small fridge. The only issue I had was that there was a faint smell of “oldness” to it. The price was more than reasonable and it did the trick for a short overnight with an early departure. On a longer trip, I’d stay elsewhere.
Where to Eat in Kars
There are lots of good places in town to choose from, and many offer traditional Kafkas (Caucasian) folk dance shows. The city is famous for cheese and goose meat. You’ll find cheese shops in the city center and goose dishes at the traditional restaurants serving regional cuisine.
Pushkin Cafe
We had dinner at the Pushkin Cafe, which was right around the corner from our hotel. They feature live music and a traditional dance show every night. We had an early morning so we only ate and skipped the show. Service is friendly and efficient, and a cover is charged for the dance show.
Pushkin Cafe has a menu full of traditional regional dishes as well as a fixed menu. We all ordered off the menu. I started with the yogurt lentil soup and had the goose mantı as my main course. I don’t think I’ll have goose again. It’s an acquired taste.
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