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Yeniköy is an affluent neighborhood and one of the most fascinating places on the European side of the Bosporus in Istanbul, Turkey. It’s located in the Sarıyer district just north of İstinye.
Introduction to Yeniköy
Yeniköy was populated during the Byzantine period but the village was in ruins at the time of Ottoman conquest in 1453. The Ottomans repopulated it shortly after with Greeks and Vlachs from Romania. The Greeks called it Neochorion (Νεοχώριον), Neochori (Νεοχώρι), or Nichori (Νιχώρι or Νηχώρι). Both names, in Greek and Turkish, translate to New Village.
Until the 18th century, Yeniköy was a large Greek settlement with small Turkish, Armenian, and Jewish minorities. After that several wealthy non-Muslims started building elegant seaside mansions (yalılar) along the Bosporus. Egyptian Greek poet Constantine Cavafy (1863-1933) lived there as a teenager with his parents from 1882 to 1885. Many minority residents left after the 1955 Istanbul pogrom.
Today, Yeniköy is popular for its cafés and restaurants, mostly along leafy Köybaşı Avenue (Köybaşı Caddesi), and boasts some of the most expensive real estate in Istanbul. It still has a small minority community.
Getting to Yeniköy
To get to Yeniköy, you can take 22 bus from Kabataş and get off at İstinye and walk, or the 40 or SRY-7 direct from Beşiktaş. The nearest working ferry terminal is at İstinye, which has service every hour or so on the City Ferry Lines (Şehir Hatları) from Eminönü and Beşiktaş.
Osman Reis Mosque
Starting on the south end of Yeniköy on Köybaşı Avenue is the Osman Reis Mosque (Osman Reis Camii). It was originally built in 1635 by Osman Reis (d. 1645), one of the leaders of the Ottoman Navy, and was the first mosque in the neighborhood.
The mosque was rebuilt between 1903 and 1904 by Ahmed Afif Pasha, who had just started construction on his seaside mansion behind it. Ottoman French architect Alexandre Vallaury (1850-1921) designed the new building. The courtyard and associated buildings were lost during construction of Köybaşı Avenue in 1958. After suffering damage during the 1999 İzmit earthquake, the Sabancı family had the mosque repaired. The interior is decorated with tiles.
Ahmed Faiz Bey Mansion
Across the street a few steps north is the Ahmed Faiz Bey Mansion (Ahmet Faiz Bey Köşkü), which is one of the most impressive wooden mansions in the area. Information is limited, although it’s known to date back to the 18th century. It was owned by several different wealthy families over the years. One of the final owners was Ahmed Faiz, hence the name.
Armenian Church of the Virgin Mary
A short walk inland is the Armenian Church of the Virgin Mary (Surp Asdvadzanzin / Meryem Ana Ermeni Kilisesi), which has existed since at least 1794. The church underwent a major restoration completed in 1834. Another restoration took place in 2006. Benefactors buried in the churchyard are Sarkis Agha Vahanyan (d. 1843), Nazlı Vahanyan (d. 1884), and Vahan Efendi Arzuman (d. 1891).
Plaj Park
Back down to Köybaşı Avenue is the pleasant Plaj Park (Plaj Parkı), which is a nice space shaded by tall trees. It features an outdoor gym, playground, and small basketball court.
Mihrişah Valide Sultan Fountain
In the park you’ll find the Mihrişah Valide Sultan Fountain (Mihrişah Valide Sultan Çeşmesi). It was built in 1805 by Mihrişah Sultan (c. 1745-1805), the mother of Sultan Selim III, and restored in 2007. It once stood next to the Molla Çelebi Mosque, which has long been demolished.
Yeniköy Synagogue
A few steps past the park is the Yeniköy Synagogue (Yeniköy Sinagogu). It’s a small building constructed by Abraham Salomon Camondo (1781-1873) in 1870. It was renovated by Jak Pardo in 1957 and again in 2000, and it’s still in use today.
St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church
Continuing along Köybaşı Avenue, if you walk a block inland to Sait Halim Pasha Street, you’ll come to St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church (Άγιος Νικόλαος Νεοχωρίου / Aya Nikola Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi). It was built in 1818 and features a central nave with two aisles separated by five columns each.
St. George Greek Orthodox Church
A few blocks away is St. George Greek Orthodox Church (Ἁγίος Γεωργίος Νεοχωρίου / Ayios Yeoryios Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi), which was built in 1659. It’s under the jurisdiction of the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate of Jerusalem as a Metochion of the Holy Sepulchre.
Dormition of the Virgin Koumariotissa Greek Orthodox Church
Nearby is the Dormition of the Virgin Koumariotissa Greek Orthodox Church (Κοίμησις Θεοτόκου Κουμαριωτίσσης Νεοχωρίου / Panayia Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi). It was built in 1837 by decree of Sultan Mahmud II at the request of his personal physician, Stefanos Karatheodori (1789-1867). Karatheodori and his son, Alexandros (1833-1906), are buried in the courtyard near the wooden bell tower.
St. John the Baptist Armenian Catholic Church
St. John the Baptist Armenian Catholic Church (Surp Hovhannes Mıgırdıç Ermeni Kilisesi) is near the north end of Köybaşı Avenue. It was originally built out of wood by Hovhannes Ağa Tıngıryan in 1848 on land purchased by Hovhannes Ağa Kuyumcuyan in 1845. Tıngıryan built the current church which opened to worship on June 24, 1866.
Cezayirliyan Mansion
The Cezayirliyan Mansion (Cezayirliyan Yalısı) is at the northern end of Yeniköy. It was commissioned by Mıgırdıç Cezayirliyan (1805-1861), who built the first bridge over the Golden Horn, the Hayratiye Bridge (Hayratiye Köprüsü) between Balat and Hasköy, in 1836. The three-story mansion was designed in the Neoclassical style by Mıgırdıç Kalfa Çarkyan. Construction began in the middle of the 19th century but was halted after all of Cezayirliyan’s property was confiscated in 1859.
The mansion sat unfinished until 1885. In 1898, Sultan Abdülhamid II granted it to Emperor Franz Josef I as a symbol of friendship. It was used as the Embassy of Austria-Hungary before World War I followed by the Embassy of Austria. After all embassies were transferred to Ankara, it was used as the ambassador’s summer residence. The mansion originally stood right on the Bosporus but was cut off from the shoreline during road construction between 1930 and 1935.
The Cezayirliyan Mansion sits within a walled compound with a garden. It has roughly 750 square meters of floor space. The ground floor consists of seven rooms while the second floor has two rooms and a hall. A marble staircase leads to the third floor, which has 10 rooms. A kitchen, stables, and coach house are located in the garden.
Today, the building serves as the Austrian Cultural Forum (Österreichisches Kulturforum) and is used for receptions and meetings held by the Austrian Consulate. The third floor was used as a school between 1966 and 1970.
Seaside Mansions in Yeniköy
Yeniköy boasts some of the most impressive seaside mansions (yalılar) on the Bosporus. Obviously, they’re best seen from the water. I’ll cover several that I was able to photograph moving from south to north.
Recâizâde Mahmud Ekrem Mansion
First, next to the İstinye Lighthouse, is the Recâizâde Mahmud Ekrem Mansion (Recâizâde Mahmud Ekrem Yalısı). It was built by Monsieur Pigeon, a manager at the Paşabahçe Glass Factory, and later sold to author Recâizâde Mahmud Ekrem (1847-1914). He had to sell it in 1900 and it has been owned by Hacı Mahmud Efendi, Cemil Pasha (1866-1958), Ticaret Nazırı Kabulî Pasha, the Süleymangil family, and the Hancıoğlu family. The mansion consists of three separate buildings, including a two-story selamlιk with a balcony, a three-story harem, and an outbuilding.
Faik Bey and Pakize Hanım Mansion
A few homes down is the Faik Bey and Pakize Hanım Mansion (Faik Bey ve Pakize Hanım Yalısı), which was built by Faik Bey. After his death, it passed to Pakize Hanım. It consists of three floors and was converted to a six-unit apartment after 1969. The construction date is unknown.
Ahmed Afif Pasha Mansion
Next is the Ahmed Afif Pasha Mansion (Ahmed Afif Paşa Yalısı), which is just behind the Osman Reis Mosque. It was built between 1900 and 1910 by Ahmed Afif Pasha and designed by Ottoman French architect Alexandre Vallaury (1850-1921). It replaced an older mansion owned by Ferendiz Hanım, the daughter of Mustafa Reşid Pasha (1800-1858). Afif Pasha’s son Ali Fuad Bey married Sultan Abdulhamid II’s daughter Refia Sultan (1891-c. 1938) and the couple lived there for a while.
The four-story mansion was sold after the foundation of the Turkish Republic to Misbah Muhayyeş (1888-1954), the owner of the Pera Palace Hotel. He invited writer Agatha Christie (1890-1976) to stay there as a guest during her several trips to Istanbul between 1926 and 1932. The mansion was also rented as a movie set and Aşk-ı Memnu, the second television series produced in Turkey, was shot there by Halit Refiğ (1934-2009) in 1975.
Kemal Uzan (b. 1935) bought the mansion from Cemil Muhayyeş after the death of his father, Misbah. It fell into disrepair by 1983 and was renovated, but was repossessed to cover Uzan’s debts. It changed hands many times and was purchased by Suzan Sabancı Dinçer (b. 1965) in 2009.
Rasim Ferit Talay Mansion
Moving further up the coast you’ll spot the four-story Rasim Ferit Talay Mansion (Rasim Ferit Talay Yalısı). It was built by Rasim Ferit Talay (1889-1965), a newspaper publisher, politician, and a close friend of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (c. 1881-1938). Atatürk often visited the mansion after the foundation of the Turkish Republic. The heirs of Rasim Ferit later sold the mansion to the Manioğulları family. In 1981, it was purchased by Tansu Çiller (b. 1946), the first female Prime Minister of Turkey.
Şehzade Burhaneddin Efendi Mansion
Nearby is the Şehzade Burhaneddin Efendi Mansion (Şehzade Burhaneddin Efendi Yalısı), also known as the Erbilgin Mansion (Erbilgin Yalısı). The first mansion on the property was built in the second half of the 19th century and one of the first owners was Varki Vartaks (d. 1885). According to title deeds, the landowner in 1785 is listed as watchmaker Hacı Panayot. In 1887, it was sold to Minister of Foreign Affairs Ahmed Münir Pasha (1828-1897), and was later owned by Enver Pasha’s (1881-1922) mother Ayşe Pervin as well as Ottoman princess Şükriye Ulviye Hanım.
In 1911, Sultan Abdülhamid II purchased the mansion for his son Şehzade Mehmed Burhaneddin Efendi (1885-1949), who had it demolished and rebuilt in 1912. When the Ottoman dynasty was exiled, the prince was forced to sell the property in 1923. The buyer was the Egyptian Ahmed İhsan Bey (d. 1946) and it began to be called the Egyptian Mansion (Mısırlılar Yalısı). It was restored in 1944 by architect Burhanettin Bey, and Ahmed İhsan Bey’s daughters Nebiha, Melek, Nimet, and Semiha continued to use it as a summer residence after his death.
The mansion, which had been neglected for several years, was sold to Sani Müfit Erbilgin in 1984, who renamed it and had architect Hüsrev Tayla restore in 1989. Qatari businessman Abdulhadi Mana Al-Hajri bought it in March 2015. At 64 rooms, the Neo-Baroque building is one of the largest mansions of the Bosphorus.
Saip Özden Mansion
Next is the Saip Özden Mansion (Saip Özden Yalısı), which was built by a Greek tradesman in 1851. It’s a three-story building that resembles a Swiss chalet. There’s not much information about its construction or history.
Gazioğlu Mansion
The Gazioğlu Mansion (Gazioğlu Yalısı) is a few homes down. It was designed in the 1920s but the exact construction date is unknown. The first resident was painter Abidin Dino (1913-1993). It was later owned by İbrahim Asa and his heirs and in the 1950s was used as the Sipahi Ocağı Club. The mansion was purchased by Muzaffer Gazioglu in 1960. He restored it and moved into the building with his family in 1962. The north side has three stories while the south side has two.
Beyazcıyan Mansion
Attached to the north side is the Beyazcıyan Mansion (Beyazcıyan Yalısı), which was originally built by Mıgırdıç Beyazcıyan in the late 19th century. It was demolished and rebuilt by İzzet Bayraktar in 1992. It has three stories and a balcony on the upper two.
Karatheodori Mansion
To the right is the Karatheodori Mansion (Karatodori Yalısı). It was built in 1895 by Ottoman Greek diplomat Alexandros Karatheodori (1833-1906) and was used as a barracks during World War I. It was later purchased by the Behlül family. One interesting fact is that the three-story mansion was built using extra materials purchased for Çırağan Palace. It also resembles a Venetian palazzo rather than a Bosporus mansion.
Said Halim Pasha Mansion
One of the most famous mansions in Yeniköy is the Said Halim Pasha Mansion (Sait Halim Paşa Yalısı). The first mansion on the site was owned by the Düzoğulları family. It was purchased by the Aristarhis family, who demolished it and built another mansion in 1863.
Muhammad Abd al-Halim Pasha of Egypt (1830-1894) acquired the property in 1876 and wasn’t happy with the size and condition of the building. Ottoman Greek architect Petraki Adamantidis enlarge and redesigned it in its current form. After Abd al-Halim Pasha’s death in 1894, the property was left to his nine children. Said Halim Pasha (1864/65-1921) purchased the shares of his siblings and became the sole owner. It passed to his heirs in 1921 and featured in many Turkish films starting in 1962.
In 1968, the Neo-Classical mansion was sold to Tourism Bank and was used for touristic purposes until 1980, including as a foreigners-only casino for a short time starting in 1969. It was restored between 1980 and 1984, and in 1989, the garden was transformed into a restaurant and some rooms were arranged as a museum. The Prime Minister also used it as a summer residence and sometimes held official meetings there.
A fire damaged the mansion in 1995 and it was restored to its original appearance, with work completed in 2002. Since 2005, it has functioned as one of the city’s premier event venues. It also hosts events open to the public throughout the year, such as Sunday breakfasts during the winter season, holiday dinners, and more.
Mısırlı Fuad Bey Mansion
The Mısırlı Fuad Bey Mansion (Mısırlı Fuat Bey Yalısı) is the second house to the left of Yeniköy Pier. It was built by Ottoman Greek banker Ioannis Sismanoglou (1820-1894). Sultan Abdülhamid’s son-in-law, Eyüp Pagazade Fuad Bey later purchased the mansion. It was then owned by Mısırlı İhsan Bey, the Baltacıoğlu family, Murat Rodoplu, the Boronkay family, and finally Mustafa Özkan in the 1980s. Özkan demolished the original mansion and rebuilt it with reinforced concrete. It features a balcony with six columns.
Eyüb Pasha Mansion
Just south of the pier is the Eyüb Pasha Mansion (Eyüp Paşa Yalısı). It was built by Eyüb Pasha and sold to Parsık İhmalyan after his death. The Neo-Gothic mansion has three stories and served as a restaurant for many years. It has been in a dilapidated state for a long time.
Faik and Bekir Bey Mansion
North of Yeniköy Pier is the Faik and Bekir Bey Mansion (Faik ve Bekir Bey Yalısı). It’s a twin mansion built in 1906 for the twin children of Sara Sultan. It was designed in the Art Nouveau style by Italian architect Raimondo D’Aranco (1857-1932). One side was later purchased by Faik Kurtoğlu and the other by Bekir Sıtkı Oyal. The three-story mansion features wooden shutters, balconies on the upper floors, and a boathouse with four entrances underneath.
Aleko Nikolaidis Mansion
The Aleko Nikolaidis Mansion (Aleko Nikolaidis Yalısı) is a few houses to the north. It was built by Ottoman Greek banker Christakis Zografos (1820-1898), also known as Hristaki Efendi, in the third quarter of the 19th century. It operated it as an upscale hotel for many years and was later purchased by the Nikolaidis family. In 1967, local fisherman Aleko Nikolaidis repaired it and turned the ground floor into what was the only Greek taverna in Yeniköy at the time. The building is owned by the Dormition of the Virgin Koumariotissa Greek Orthodox Church foundation.
Ali Rıza Pasha Mansion
Next door is the Ali Rıza Pasha Mansion (Ali Rıza Paşa Yalısı). It was built in 1880 by a Frenchman and later sold to Ali Rıza Pasha (1860-1932), an Ottoman military officer and one of the last Grand Viziers of the Ottoman Empire. It’s a four-story wooden mansion that has been very well maintained. In fact, part of the building was renovated by the restorers of Topkapi Palace in 1962. A heating system was added in 1974.
Dr. Muvaffak Gören Mansion
A bit further north is the Dr. Muvaffak Gören Mansion (Doktor Muvaffak Gören Yalısı). It was built in 1880 or 1897, depending on the source, as the Dialegmenos Mansion (Dialegmenos Yalısı) and later sold to the Hamapoulos family. In the 1920s, the Venetian-style mansion was purchased by the father of Dr. Muvaffak Gören (d. 2006). Dr. Gören was an obstetrician at Zeynep Kamil Hospital (Zeynep Kamil Hastanesi) for many years as well as one of the founders of the Istanbul Symphony Orchestra. He donated his entire estate, including the mansion, to a foundation after his death. His family filed dozens of lawsuits in an attempt to cancel the donation.
Dadyan Mansion
Next door is the Dadyan Mansion (Dadyan Yalısı). It was built in 1850 by the Ottoman Armenian Düzoğlu family and later purchased by Nikola Aristarhis. Near the end of the 19th century, it was sold to Artin Dadyan Pasha (1830-1901), a vizier under Sultan Abdülhamid II and one of the highest ranking Armenians in the Ottoman government. In 1974, the Dadyan family sold it to Adil Sezer, who carried out an extensive restoration. It’s three stories high with four columns along the ground floor. The mansion blends the Art Nouveau and Palladian styles.
Kosti Rozi Mansion
Finally, a couple houses down is the Kosti Rozi Mansion (Kosti Rozi Yalısı), also known as the Vedat Bey Mansion (Vedat Bey Yalısı). It was built in the 19th century with three stories. A fourth story was added later.
