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Vaniköy is a tiny neighborhood on the Asian side of the Bosporus in Istanbul. It’s known for its collection of seaside mansions.
Introduction to Vaniköy
Vaniköy, technically part of Kandilli, is located in the Üsküdar district between Kandilli and Kuleli. It was originally known as Papaz Bahçesi (Priest’s Garden). In the 16th century, Sultan Mehmed IV gave the land to his teacher, Vanî Mehmed Efendi (d. 1685), for whom the area is now named. He built a mosque completed in 1665 as well as a mansion and a madrasa, but only the mosque survives today. Today, Vaniköy is a thin sliver of land along the shoreline full of mansions broken only by the mosque.
Getting to Vaniköy
To be honest, there’s really no reason to walk through Vaniköy unless you’d like to visit the mosque. All the mansions are behind security walls and best seen from the Bosporus.
If you do decide to visit, the easiest way to get there is through Üsküdar. Take a ferry to Üsküdar and walk to the Üsküdar Cami Önü stop (in front of the mosque across the street from the ferry terminal). Hop on pretty much any bus with a number 15 until you reach the Vaniköy stop. You can also take a dolmuş going to Beykoz and ask the driver to let you out at Vaniköy – it’s much faster than the bus.
If you prefer to take a ferry, the nearest ferry terminal is at Kandilli. You can get there on the Istanbul City Ferry Lines (İstanbul Şehir Hatları) from either Arnavutköy or Bebek every few hours throughout the day.
Seaside Mansions in Vaniköy
As I mentioned before, the neighborhood is best known for its seaside mansions. I’ve only snapped a photos of two of them and plan to pay closer attention on my next trip to Istanbul.
Recaizade Mahmud Ekrem Mansion
First at the very north end of the neighborhood is the Recaizade Mahmud Ekrem Mansion (Recaizade Mahmut Ekrem Yalısı). It was built in 1849 by Recai Mehmed Efendi (d. 1861), the father of writer Recaizade Mahmud Ekrem (1847-1914), who was born in the house. It was purchased by Egyptians after the death of Recai Mehmed Efendi. From 1950 to 1988, it was used as an oil factory. The mansion was rebuilt according to its original design in 1988.
Kadınefendi Mansion
Next door to the south is the Kadınefendi Mansion (Kadınefendi Yalısı), which was built by Shaykh al-Islam (Şeyhülislam) Mehmed Emin Efendi in 1770. He was the son of Hayatizade Mehmed Efendi, who was also a Shaykh al-Islam, as were his sons Said Efendi and Mehmed Said Efendi. The mansion has three floors and a T-shaped roof.
The building, originally known as the Hayatizade Mansion (Hayatizade Yalısı), passed to the Dürrizade family through marriage. Shaykh al-Islam Dürrizade Abdullah Beyefendi (d. 1923), who issued a death edict for Mustafa Kemal (Atatürk) and his associates in the 1920s, lived there until he was forced to leave Turkey.
The Dürrizade family sold the selamlık section to Mihrengiz Kadın Efendi (1869-1938) and the harem section of the mansion to Dilfirib Kadın Efendi (c. 1890-c. 1952). They were the third and fourth consorts of Sultan Mehmed V, respectively.
