Last updated on .
Vaniköy is a tiny neighborhood on the Asian side of the Bosphorus in Istanbul. It’s known for its collection of seaside mansions.
Introduction to Vaniköy
Vaniköy, technically part of Kandilli, is located in the Üsküdar district between Kandilli and Kuleli. It was originally known as Papaz Bahçesi (Priest’s Garden). In the 16th century, Sultan Mehmed IV gave the land to his teacher, Vanî Mehmed Efendi (d. 1685), for whom the area is now named. He built a mosque as well as a mansion and a madrasa, but only the mosque survives today. Today, Vaniköy is a thin sliver of land along the shoreline full of mansions broken only by the mosque.
Getting to Vaniköy
To be honest, there’s really no reason to walk through Vaniköy unless you’d like to visit the mosque. All the mansions are behind security walls and best seen from the Bosphorus.
If you do decide to visit, the easiest way to get there is through Üsküdar. Take a ferry to Üsküdar and walk to the Üsküdar Cami Önü stop (in front of the mosque across the street from the ferry terminal). Hop on pretty much any bus with a number 15 until you reach the Vaniköy stop. You can also take a dolmuş going to Beykoz and ask the driver to let you out at Vaniköy – it’s much faster than the bus.
If you prefer to take a ferry, the nearest ferry terminal is at Kandilli. You can get there on the Istanbul City Ferry Lines (İstanbul Şehir Hatları) from either Arnavutköy or Bebek every few hours throughout the day.
Vaniköy Mosque
The Vaniköy Mosque (Vaniköy Camii) is along the shore in the center of the neighborhood. It was built by Vanî Mehmed Efendi in 1665/66. The mosque burned down on November 15, 2020, and was restored to its original form by the Kalyon Foundation. It reopened for worship on June 16, 2023.
Seaside Mansions in Vaniköy
As I mentioned earlier, the neighborhood is best known for its seaside mansions.
Recaizade Mahmud Ekrem Mansion
First, at the very north end of the neighborhood is the Recaizade Mahmud Ekrem Mansion (Recaizade Mahmut Ekrem Yalısı). It was built in 1849 by Recai Mehmed Efendi (d. 1861), the father of writer Recaizade Mahmud Ekrem (1847-1914), who was born in the house. It was purchased by Egyptians after the death of Recai Mehmed Efendi. From 1950 to 1988, it was used as an oil factory. The mansion was rebuilt according to its original design in 1988.
Kadınefendi Mansion
Next door to the south is the Kadınefendi Mansion (Kadınefendi Yalısı), which was built by Shaykh al-Islam (Şeyhülislam) Mehmed Emin Efendi in 1770. He was the son of Hayatizade Mehmed Efendi, who was also a Shaykh al-Islam, as were his sons Said Efendi and Mehmed Said Efendi. The mansion has three floors and a T-shaped roof.
The building, originally known as the Hayatizade Mansion (Hayatizade Yalısı), passed to the Dürrizade family through marriage. Shaykh al-Islam Dürrizade Abdullah Beyefendi (d. 1923), who issued a death edict for Mustafa Kemal (Atatürk) and his associates in the 1920s, lived there until he was forced to leave Turkey.
The Dürrizade family sold the selamlık section to Mihrengiz Kadın Efendi (1869-1938) and the harem section of the mansion to Dilfirib Kadın Efendi (c. 1890-c. 1952). They were the third and fourth consorts of Sultan Mehmed V, respectively.
Ahmed Nazif Pasha Mansion
Continuing south is the Ahmed Nazif Pasha Mansion (Ahmed Nazif Paşa Yalısı). It was built in 1880 by Ahmed Nazif Pasha (1841-1905), the son-in-law of Sultan Abdülhamid II. The large two-story building was the harem section while the selamlık was the one-story building to the right. The mansion on the hill behind was also part of the property. It was purchased by Agop Köçoğlu and eventually became the Italian Military Hospital.
Serasker Rıza Pasha Mansion
The Serasker Rıza Pasha Mansion (Serasker Rıza Paşa Yalısı) is a couple homes past the mosque. According to one source, it was built in 1881 by Mustafa Nuri Pasha (1824-1890), the Chief Secretary of the Mabeyn (Mabeyn Başkâtibi) under Sultan Abdülaziz. The mansion takes its name from a decorated Ottoman military commander who once lived there. One source I found states it’s named for Mehmed Rıza Pasha (1844-1920) while another claims Cihan Seraskeri Rıza Pasha (1809-1877), also known as Hasan Rıza Pasha. If anyone can clear up this confusion I would really appreciate it!
Today, only the selamlık section of the mansion survives. The harem section burned down. A garden separates the building from the shoreline, and a beautiful staircase leads down to the sea. The design blends the Art Nouveau and Arabesque styles. The side facing the street has two stories with two bedrooms on the upper floor.
Mahmud Nedim Pasha Mansion
Finally, near the south end of Vaniköy, you won’t miss the Mahmud Nedim Pasha Mansion (Mahmud Nedim Paşa Yalısı). It was built in the late 19th century by Mahmud Nedim Pasha (1818-1883), who was serving as the ambassador to Vienna at the time. He had the original home demolished and he also purchased the adjacent land in order to build a bigger mansion.
The mansion features separate selamlık and harem sections as well as a handful of outbuildings. The selamlık, which is well-known for its unique pyramid-shaped tower, was later owned by Saynur Aral (1917-2010) followed by Yalçın Sabancı (b. 1943).
