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Tarlabaşı is a neighborhood in Istanbul west of Istiklal Street. It’s the most diverse area in the city as well as a notorious slum.
Introduction to Tarlabaşı
Tarlabaşı runs between Taksim Square and Tepebaşı and borders Kasımpaşa to the west. It was settled around 1535 for people working at the embassies in Beyoğlu. It was mostly populated by Levantines, Greeks, Armenians, Jews, and other non-Muslims. The neighborhood has been greatly affected by minority flight due to events such as the foundation of the Turkish Republic in 1923, a wealth tax established in 1942, and the anti-Greek pogrom of September 6-7, 1955.
When the minorities moved out, it gave low-income families an opportunity to move in. The neighborhood quickly turned into a slum around the 1960s. Furthermore, the construction of Tarlabaşı Boulevard in 1980 destroyed over 350 historic buildings and effectively isolated the neighborhood from the Taksim area.
Today, the area is home to a significant Romani population as well as many Kurds who moved there in the 1990s. Syrian refugees began to pour in in the 2010s along with African migrants. There’s also a significant transgender community.
Safety in Tarlabaşı
Tarlabaşı is notorious in Istanbul for being a slum full of drugs, crime, and prostitution. My students always warned me to stay away but that never stopped me from exploring the neighborhood several times. I’ve never had a problem during the day but at night, it’s a different story. I’ve had friends mugged or accosted while walking home in the dark. If you decide to explore the neighborhood, keep aware of your surroundings and avoid it after dark.
Exploring Tarlabaşı
To really understand the neighborhood, it’s worth taking the time to explore Tarlabaşı. There’s very little touristic value other than a few landmarks, but just walking through the streets will give visitors a good understanding of life in the area, its history, and its future.
First of all, many of the buildings in Tarlabaşı are similar to what you would find on the side streets and alleys off Istiklal Street. They’re of solid stone construction and designed by Greek, Armenian, and Levantine architects.
Many of these buildings are crumbling, but others have been nicely restored and are in good condition. These buildings are mixed in with unimpressive modern structures.
Residents of Tarlabaşı
I really enjoyed meeting the locals. They were honest, had a good sense of humor, and were genuinely interested in talking to me. The people may give foreigners an odd look but they’re generally friendly and some even ask to pose for photos.
The only time we had a problem was taking photos of certain buildings. Some locals explained to us that residents of these buildings are worried the photos are for real estate purposes. They simply don’t want a big company to come in and kick them out of their homes.
My favorite scene in the neighborhood is people walking through the streets under laundry strung from building to building. It really brought forth the simplicity of the neighborhood. It gave me a sense that rather than getting caught up in all the problems of the world, the people were simply focused on day-to-day life.
Tarlabaşı Boulevard
Most visitors to Istanbul will only see Tarlabaşı from Tarlabaşı Boulevard. What they see is only a façade. Thanks to its fantastic location, a government-sponsored gentrification program began there around 2006. The program has threatened the local community and the new construction blocked some of the “undesirable” buildings from view.
Aynalı Çeşme
I lived in Tarlabaşı for about seven months and enjoyed my time there. My apartment was in an old Greek building on Aynalı Çeşme Street, just a short walk from Tepebaşı. I had a gorgeous view of the Golden Horn from my window and could hear the crowd at Kasımpaşa games. It was a wonderful place to live, and I got to know the local market owner across the street.
Aynalı Çeşme Street is considered one of the best places to live in Tarlabaşı. It’s clean, safe, friendly, and the location is excellent. There’s a bus stop a short walk from the street, and Istiklal Street is also nearby.
Aynalıçeşme Protestant Church
On Emin Cami Street is the Aynalıçeşme Protestant Church (Aynalıçeşme Protestan Kilisesi). It dates back to 1846 and is the first Armenian Evangelical church in the world. The current building was built between 1905 and 1907.
German Protestant Church
Next door is the inconspicuous German Protestant Church (Alman Protestan Kilisesi / Die Evangelisch-Deutsche Gemeinde in Istanbul). It was founded in 1843 and the building was constructed in 1861. The architect is thought to be August Jachmund. The church is still active today.
SS Constantine and Helen Greek Orthodox Church
SS Constantine and Helen Greek Orthodox Church (Aya Konstantin Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi) is halfway down Kalyoncu Kulluğu Street. Construction began on March 25, 1856, and it opened on April 9, 1861. It was restored in 1999 by the Commercial Bank of Greece. The church is on a Greek cross plan. Apparently, it’s open to visitors early morning on Wednesdays.
Virgin Mary Syriac Orthodox Church
Finally, the Virgin Mary Syriac Orthodox Church (Meryem Ana Süryani Kadim Kilisesi) is located on Karakurum Street. It was built between 1961 and 1964 and is the only Syriac church in Istanbul. The church underwent a three year renovation and reopened on May 28, 2006.
Where to Eat in Tarlabaşı
I’ve had one meal in the neighborhood and it was unexpectedly fantastic.
Sini Ethnic Omakase
I stopped into lunch at Sini Ethnic Omakase. It’s a tiny Asian fusion restaurant on Kurdela Street with just three tables. Although I didn’t have a reservation, the owner happily seated me and went over the menu.
I decided on the wagyu beef ramen, which was one of the best ramens I’ve ever had. It was filled with high-quality ingredients the flavors were out of this world. I honestly wasn’t expecting it to be so good, but I can confidently say the chef is a master.
If you’re looking for something extraordinary, do yourself a favor and try this place. It’s a true gastronomic experience and is the textbook definition of a hidden gem. I’ll go one step further and say it could easily have a Michelin star. Reservations are highly recommended as it might not be open or have space for walk-ins. Also, keep in mind it will cost a lot more than most Istanbul restaurants, but it’s well worth it. I’ll definitely be back for the tasting menu!
