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Sultanahmet is the heart of old Constantinople. This UNESCO World Heritage listed area contains the most important historic sites in Istanbul.
Introduction to Sultanahmet
While visiting Sultanahmet, most people head straight for Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, and the Basilica Cistern. They might take a stroll around the Hippodrome and pop into one of the fine museums but not notice what else is around.
This post focuses on everything in Sultanahmet outside the major tourist attractions. I’ll explore the heart of the area as well as the backstreets and buildings that most people walk by without a second thought. Thankfully, many of these sites are well-marked with interpretive panels, which makes them more visible to tourists.
Sultanahmet Park
A great place to start exploring Sultanahmet is Sultanahmet Park (Sultan Ahmet Parkı). It’s a beautiful open space with grass, benches, and a large fountain. The park takes up the area between Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, and the Tomb of Ahmed I is on the southwest corner.
Hagia Sophia Square (Augustaion)
The area on the north side of Sultanahmet Park, just in front of Hagia Sophia, roughly corresponds to the ancient Augustaion (Αὐγουσταῖον), which was an important ceremonial square in Byzantine Constantinople. It’s often referred to as Hagia Sophia Square (Ayasofya Meydanı).
The area was originally a public market dating back to ancient Byzantium. Roman Emperor Septimius Severus surrounded it with porticoes in the late 2nd century and named it the Tetrastoon. In the center was a column with a statue of the god Helios. Emperor Constantine I renamed the square the Augustaion and placed the Augusta Helena, a statue of his mother Helena, atop a porphyry column in the center.
In the 6th century under Emperor Justinian I, the Augustaion was converted to a closed courtyard with limited access and served as the forecourt of Hagia Sophia. The courtyard remained intact until around the 15th century. A 70 meter high column topped by an equestrian statue of Justinian I stood in the square until 1515, when it was demolished by the Ottomans. The statue itself was dismantled in 1453 and moved to the gardens of Topkapi Palace. It was later melted down in the 1540s to make cannons.
Haseki Hürrem Sultan Hamam
On the east side of Sultanahmet Park is the Haseki Hürrem Sultan Hamam (Haseki Hürrem Sultan Hamamı). It was built in 1556 by Hürrem Sultan (1502-1558), also known as Roxelana, the wife of Süleyman the Magnificent. The architect was Mimar Sinan (c. 1490-1588).
The hamam sits on the site of the Baths of Zeuxippus, which were built by Septimius Severus and popular during Byzantine times. The Baths of Zeuxippus lasted from the late 2nd century to about 713. In 1902, the hamam was turned into a warehouse. It were restored in 1957 and used for art exhibitions in the 1980s. A three-year project costing US$11 million returned the hamam to its original purpose, opening to the public in May 2011.
The entrance to the men’s section is on the north side while the women’s section is on the west. Each section consists of three rooms: the changing room (soyunmalık), cold room (soğukluk / frigidarium), and hot room (sıcaklık / caldarium). Visit the official website for information on hamam packages, reservations, and more.
Caferağa Madrasa
Off the park just west of Hagia Sophia and hidden down a small stone staircase is the Caferağa Madrasa (Caferağa Medresesi). It was built for Cafer Ağa by legendary Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan (c. 1490-1588) in 1559.
The madrasa was renovated and turned into a cultural center in 1989. There are 15 classrooms and exhibition rooms surrounding a courtyard. Traditional Turkish arts such as calligraphy, jewelry, and ceramics are made and sold there, and there are also workshops teaching these arts.
Great Palace of Constantinople
East of Hagia Sophia is an excavation area containing ruins from the Great Palace of Constantinople. Less than 25% of the Byzantine palace has been excavated. The excavation area is usually behind walls, but I was able to get a peek of what was probably the Palace of Magnaura, which housed the Senate, and the barracks of the Scholae Palatinae, an elite military unit. The only section of the palace open to visitors is the Great Palace Mosaics Museum near the Arasta Bazaar.
Soğukçeşme Street
Soğukçeşme Street (Soğukçeşme Sokağı) is one of the most scenic streets in Istanbul. It sits between Hagia Sophia and the walls of Topkapi Palace. At the east end of the street are the gates to the palace and the west end leads to Gülhane Park.
Soğukçeşme Street literally translates to Cold Fountain Street. It takes its name from a fountain built around 1800, during the reign of Selim III. Foreign tourists and artists have been visiting the street since it was developed in the 19th century.
Soğukçeşme Street contains 12 wooden Ottoman homes built in the 19th century against the walls of the First Courtyard of Topkapi Palace. The houses are two to three stories high and contain bay windows. They were restored from 1985 to 1986 thanks to the efforts of Turkish historical preservationist Çelik Gülersoy (1930-2003). Fahri Korutürk (1903-1987), the sixth president of Turkey, was born in one of the houses.
Today, nine of the houses belong to Hagia Sophia Mansions (Ayasofya Konakları), a boutique hotel run by Curio Collection by Hilton. Each house is named after a type of flower planted outside. The hotel has attracted high-profile guests from around the world. In addition to the houses, there’s also a library and a Byzantine cistern now functioning as a restaurant.
Fountain of Ahmed III
In front of the gate to Topkapi Palace, you’ll notice the Fountain of Ahmed III (III. Ahmed Çeşmesi). It was built under Sultan Ahmed III in 1728 and is one of the finest fountains in Istanbul. It replaced an older Byzantine fountain, Perayton, that once stood in its place.
Calligraphic panels above the taps are parts of a poem dedicated to water. It’s read clockwise from the northern side. The last stanza, on the northwest side, was written by Ahmed III himself. For a virtual tour of the fountain, click here.
Yerebatan Street
Yerebatan Street, which runs west of Hagia Sophia, contains a few minor structures of interest.
Talat Pasha Mansion
On the corner of Yerebatan and Alemdar Streets and across from the exit to the Basilica Cistern is the Talat Pasha Mansion (Talat Paşa Konağı). Talat Pasha (1874-1921) was the Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire from 1917 to 1918 and one of the main perpetrators of the Armenian Genocide. He was assassinated by Armenian revolutionary Soghomon Tehlirian (1896-1960) in Berlin on March 15, 1921. The blood-stained shirt he wore on that day is on display at the Harbiye Military Museum.
The mansion was restored by Turkish architect Çelik Gülersoy (1930-2003) in 1975 and again by Cengiz Bektaş (1934-2020) in 1987. It has since been used by the Turkish National Olympic Committee as well as a few different international organizations.
Park on Yerebatan Street
Further down Yerebatan Street is a small park with ruins in the back. There was a panel detailing the restoration work and I believe it was once an Ottoman primary school.
Yerebatan Üskübi Ibrahim Ağa Mosque
Just past the park is the Yerebatan Üskübi Ibrahim Ağa Mosque (Yerebatan Üskübi İbrahim Ağa Cami). It was built by Ibrahim Ağa in 1491, renovated in 1735 by Şekercizâde Mehmed Bey, and restored in 1953. The first Turkish translation of the Quran was read in this mosque by Hafız Yaşar on January 22, 1932.
Divan Yolu / Mese Odos
The Divan Yolu is an ancient road dating back to the Byzantine period. It was originally called the Mese Odos (Μέση Ὀδός). It was 25 meters wide and lined with colonnaded porticoes.
The road started in front of Hagia Sophia and ran westward past the Hippodrome. It passed through the Forum of Constantine and the Forum of Theodosius, then the Forum of the Ox and the Forum of Arcadius. Once it reached the Golden Gate on the Walls of Constantinople, it joined with the Via Egnatia, which led to Thessaloniki and onto Dyrrachium (now Dürres, Albania). Another branch of the road went past the Church of the Holy Apostles, which is now the site of the Fatih Mosque. Imperial processions followed the route until at least the late 12th century.
The Mese Odos was incorporated into the Divan Yolu during the Ottoman period. The modern road largely follows its course, changing names several times until it reaches the Walls of Constantinople. It’s lined by many historic landmarks, both Byzantine and Ottoman. After leaving Sultanahmet, the Divan Yolu passes the Tomb of Mahmud II and through the Çemberlitaş area where it changes to Yeniçeriler Street. It then runs past the Grand Bazaar and through Laleli before coming to Aksaray.
Milion
The Mese Odos began at the Milion (Μίλιον / Milyon taşı). This monument was erected in the 4th century to measure the distance of all roads leading to cities of the Byzantine Empire. The Milion was once protected by a large domed building standing on four arches. It disappeared by the start of the 16th century although a fragment of the monument still stands.
Interestingly, you can get an idea of the ground level of ancient Constantinople versus today. The base of the monument sits a few feet beneath the modern ground level.
Behind the stone was a concrete path indicating distances to other cities around the world. It’s not there anymore because during my last visit in June 2024 the area was being excavated. There was no information posted about the excavation.
Hacı Beşir Ağa Fountain
To the right of the Milion is the Hacı Beşir Ağa Fountain (Hacı Beşir Ağa Çeşmesi). It was built in 1744 by Hacı Beşir Ağa (1654-1746), the Chief Black Eunuch of Topkapi Palace who also built a mosque in Cağaloğlu.
The Pudding Shop
A few doors down is the Pudding Shop, which is the nickname for Lale Restaurant. İdris and Namık Çolpan opened the restaurant in 1957. It became a popular stop on the Hippie Trail in the 1960s.
The Pudding Shop was once the only place in the area with travel information on Turkey. It featured a bulletin board where travelers could leave messages to each other. The restaurant has changed dramatically since those days, but the bulletin board remains. The Pudding Shop was featured in both the book and film Midnight Express.
Cevri Kalfa Primary School
The Cevri Kalfa Primary School (Cevri Kalfa Sibyan Mektebi) is next door. It was built between 1819 and 1820 by Sultan Mahmud II in honor of Cevri Kalfa, a concubine in the Imperial Harem who saved his life. In 1808, Mahmud’s half-brother and predecessor Mustafa IV faced a rebellion against his rule. To quash the rebellion and secure his place as the only Ottoman heir, Mustafa ordered the execution of Mahmud along with the deposed Sultan Selim III.
Cevri Kalfa, who was originally from Georgia, temporarily blinded Mahmud’s would-be assassins by throwing ash in their eyes. This allowed him to escape through a window and onto the rooftop of the Harem, where he was helped down by some pages and hid in a bath furnace. As the rebels approached Mustafa and demanded he “yield his place to a worthier”, Mahmud revealed himself and took the throne. Mustafa was later executed on November 16, 1808.
As an expression of his gratitude, Mahmud II built this primary school in honor of Cevri Kalfa as well as a mansion in Çamlıca for her. It was one of the largest primary schools in Constantinople, consisting of two stories and a single classroom on the upper floor. The building was converted to a girl’s art school in 1858, served as a printing press from 1929 to 1930, and a courthouse and archives starting in 1932. In 1945, the building returned to its original purpose as a primary school and served as such until the 1970s. It has housed the Turkish Literature Foundation (Türk Edebiyatı Vakfı) since 1985.
Firuz Ağa Mosque
On the next block across the street is the Firuz Ağa Mosque (Firuz Ağa Camii). It was completed in 1491 and commissioned by Firuz Ağa, the chief treasurer of Bayezid II. Often overlooked for the much grander Blue Mosque nearby, this small, intimate mosque is worth popping into.
The mosque once had a large courtyard as well as a cemetery and the tomb of Firuz Ağa. These were all destroyed under Grand Vizier Mehmed Fuad Pasha (1814-1869) in the mid-19th century, who oversaw the expansion of the Divan Yolu. A marble sarcophagus containing the remains of Firuz Ağa now sits next to the minaret.
Mehmet Akif Ersoy Park
Outside the Sultanahmet stop on the T1 tram line is Mehmet Akif Ersoy Park (Mehmet Akif Ersoy Parkı). It’s a pleasant space that contains a fountain and open-air amphitheater. It’s named for Mehmet Akif Ersoy (1873-1936), the Ottoman-born Turkish poet who wrote the Turkish National Anthem (İstiklal Marşı). The park often hosts festivals as well as concerts at the amphitheater.
Martyrion of St. Euphemia
Located in Mehmet Akif Ersoy Park are the ruins of the Martyrion of St. Euphemia (Ἀγία Εὐφημία ἐν τῷ Ἱπποδρομίῳ). St. Euphemia was from Chalcedon (now Kadıköy) and was killed for her Christian beliefs on September 16, 303.
The structure was originally a part of the Palace of Antiochos, which was built in the 5th century by Antiochos, an influential Persian eunuch in the imperial Byzantine court. The Martyrion of St. Euphemia was constructed in the 7th century as a shrine to hold her relics, which are now kept at the Church of St. George at the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople in Fener.
After the Fall of Constantinople in 1453, the building was demolished and replaced by others. Excavations carried out by the Istanbul Archaeology Museum in 1939 and 1942 revealed the foundations as well as several frescoes chronicling the life of St. Euphemia.
Cistern of Philoxenos
Finally, a block south of the modern Divan Yolu and just behind the park is the Cistern of Philoxenos (Κινστέρνα Φιλοξένου). Now called the Cistern of 1001 Columns (Binbirdirek Sarnıcı), it’s the oldest cistern of Constantinople, dating back to the reign of Constantine the Great. It was the second largest cistern in the city. The cistern was used as garbage dump until it was restored and turned into a tourist attraction.
Contrary to its name, there are only 224 columns. They stand 14 to 15 meters high and are made of marble. The surface area is 3,640 square meters and the cistern is capable of storing 40,000 cubic meters of water. Atop the cistern today is a small park, Binbirdirek Park (Binbirdirek Parkı).
On an attempt to visit to the cistern in November 2018, the doors were open so I walked inside. I was stopped by a rude man who came chasing in after me. He asked where I was going and I responded that I wanted to see the cistern. He said, “there’s nothing to see inside, only old columns”. I told him that’s exactly what I came to see, and he proceeded to ask me for 20₺ (a lot back then!). There was no sign posted for admission, so I left after telling him “if there’s nothing to see inside, I won’t pay you 20₺”. If this happens to you, don’t pay. Go to the Şerefiye Cistern or Basilica Cistern, both nearby.
Landmarks West and South of the Hippodrome
If you explore the areas to the west and south of the Hippodrome of Constantinople, there are a few minor points of interest.
Tavukhane Street
Back to the south end of the Hippodrome, if you walk east down Tavukhane Street, you’ll spot a row of colorful wooden homes built in the mid-18th century. Some contain political messages in support of a free East Turkestan, which is part of China.
Iskender Pasha Primary School
At the end of Tavukhane Street is the Iskender Pasha Primary School (İskender Paşa Sıbyan Mektebi). I can’t find any information on it but I believe it was built in the 17th century. The building now hosts Quran courses for girls.
Arasta Hamam
Across the street from the southern entrance to the Arasta Bazaar is the ruined Arasta Hamam (Arasta Hamamı). There’s no information on when or by whom it was built, but it was destroyed by fire in the 19th century.
Kapı Ağası Mahmud Ağa Mosque
Finally, on the back streets just west of Cankurtaran is the Kapı Ağası Mahmud Ağa Mosque (Kapı Ağası Mahmut Ağa Camii). It was built in 1553 and is a minor work of Mimar Sinan, although it doesn’t retain any element of its original design. The mosque was commissioned by Babüssaade Ağası Mahmud Ağa. It was destroyed by fire in 1766 and 1825 and rebuilt both times. It’s really not worth going out of your way to find.
Where to Eat in Sultanahmet
Restaurants in Sultanahmet have been hit or miss in my experience. I try to avoid eating in the area because most places are geared towards tourists, but there are one or two places I can recommend.
Matbah
Matbah is located next to Hagia Sophia in the Ottoman Hotel Imperial. They serve up delicious historic recipes from the Ottoman palace kitchens. Prices are much higher than most restaurants in Istanbul but it’s worth trying these unique dishes.
Everything we’ve ordered at Matbah has been excellent. Best of all, the portion sizes aren’t overwhelming. We we’ve been able to enjoy all of the starters and main meals without walking away feeling overstuffed as in some Turkish restaurants.
Starters at Matbah
The starters are excellent. For cold starters, we always enjoy the stuffed grape leaves with sour cherries (vişneli yaprak sarma, 15th century), the calamari stuffed with shrimp (karidesli kalamar dolması, 18th century), and the stuffed eggplant (imam bayıldı, 17th century).
A big hit among the hot starters is the sailor’s roll with honey (ballı gemici böreği, 15th century), which is a combination of seven different Turkish cheeses wrapped in homemade phyllo, fried in olive oil, and served with honey. Starters are usually accompanied by complimentary babaganoush and an olive spread.
Main Courses at Matbah
The starters do a fantastic job of whetting your appetite, but the main courses are the star of the show. I’ve had two versions of the mutanjana (mutancana), which is diced lamb baked in a clay bowl. The 14th century version is cooked with dried apricots, figs, raisins, onions, and almonds. The 1539 version contains apricots, raisins, honey, and almonds.
The quince stuffed with minced lamb and beef, rice, almonds, and pine nuts (kavun dolması, 15th century) is another excellent choice. You can’t go wrong with the kirde kebab (kirde kebabı, 18th century), which is diced beef and vegetables, both fried and served on crunchy flatbread with yogurt.
Finally, one of my favorite meals at Matbah is the lamb shank (beğendili kuzu incik, 14th century), which is backed and served on a bed of pureed eggplant.
Dessert at Matbah
We usually don’t have room for dessert, but we had the helatiye on one visit. It’s a 15th century pine mastic and rose water pudding served with almonds, pistachios, and seasonal fruit.
Sarnıç
Around the corner from Matbah along Soğukçeşme Street is Sarnıç. It’s situated in a restored Byzantine cistern built in 542 by Emperor Justinian I. The cistern supplied water to the Great Palace and surrounding buildings.
Over time, the cistern had filled with soil. In the 1980s, it was cleaned up and restored by the Touring and Automobile Association of Turkey, who turned it into a restaurant. The restaurant was restored again in 2019.
I had been drawn into the restaurant for their claim of offering Byzantine and Ottoman cuisine, but the menu had mostly modern European options. I ended up choosing the only Ottoman-style dish available, which was spiced minced meat wrapped in phyllo dough.
While my meal was delicious, I didn’t like the atmosphere at all. The music and lighting made me feel like I was in a cheesy nightclub. Service was fine but a little slow, and the menu seemed terribly overpriced. I would skip this place. There are better restaurants in Sultanahmet.
Sultanahmet Köftecisi
I got tired of the touristy places in Sultanahmet and asked my friend Selen for some recommendations. She’s a lawyer and used to work in the area when there was a courthouse there. Without hesitating, she told me to head to Sultanahmet Köftecisi. Right next to the Pudding Shop on the Divan Yolu, they’ve been serving up the perfect köfte since 1920.
When I walked into the place, it was full of locals which is an excellent sign in such a touristy area. I ordered a portion of köfte and a lentil soup, and they were delicious. It was the perfect simple unrefined Turkish meal I was looking for. Just as important, the prices aren’t hiked up like at some restaurants in the area.
If you want to get a local flare while in such a busy touristy area, head to Sultanahmet Köftecisi. I enjoyed it so much that first time, I’ve been back on every single trip to Istanbul ever since. They also serve lamb skewers, rice, piyaz, and semolina halva.
İnci Terrace Restaurant
I’ll talk about the positive aspects of İnci Terrace Restaurant before I let loose on the negatives. First of all, it’s got fantastic views of the Marmara Sea and the Blue Mosque from the rooftop terrace and excellent friendly service.
Secondly, both the food and entertainment are excellent. There was a live band playing traditional Turkish music and several of the patrons got up to dance. It was a nice complement to our meal, which started with grilled halloumi cheese, haydari, and hummus.
Our main course was a meat platter for five, filled with succulent lamb chops, kebabs, chicken, and meatballs, followed by a baklava plate for dessert.
Warning about İnci Terrace Restaurant
Why will I never recommend İnci Terrace Restaurant? Their sole purpose is to rip off foreigners. We sat down and were given English menus, but the translations were horrible. After living in Turkey for almost four years, I have a problem understanding English translations for traditional Turkish dishes. I called the waiter over and asked him – in Turkish – for a Turkish language menu. He looked at me like a deer in headlights!
The manager came quickly to apologize and explained there are no Turkish menus because they only have foreign customers. I called “bullshit” because the two tables next to us were full of Turks, but he refused to give in. I also knew exactly why he wouldn’t let me see a Turkish menu – the prices were likely much lower, and it’s not the first time that’s happened to me. Honestly, there was no problem with the prices in the English menu. They were still reasonable considering the amount and quality of the food, but the manager made a mistake trying to pull the wool over my eyes. After that uncomfortable exchange, he came over frequently to start smalltalk in Turkish with me.
When the bill came, I nearly lost my temper. It was about 20% higher than what we had calculated. They brought me a menu and showed me the prices, which were completely different from the menus we had seen earlier. After that, it was actually a bit comical. Three waiters literally combed through every menu looking for the prices I had mentioned until they found the “correct” one. They brought it over for my approval, apologized profusely, and adjusted the bill to reflect the prices we had originally seen. Had it not been for that final blunder, I probably would have a better opinion of the restaurant.
Mihri Restaurant
Mihri Restaurant is an open-air restaurant in front of the men’s entrance to the Haseki Hürrem Sultan Hamam. I stopped in for a snack, coffee, and baklava while my customers were in the bath. The setting is wonderful, service is good, but prices are quite high thanks to the location. If I have a full meal there one day, I’ll update with my opinion.
Sebil Café
I only stop at Sebil Café for drinks. Although they have a full menu, I can’t speak for the food. I haven’t eaten there and wouldn’t recommend eating there because the service is terrible. It’s located in the square in front of Hagia Sophia.
Green Corner
Green Corner is directly opposite the entrance to the Basilica Cistern. I’ve stopped in a few times for coffee because the prices are much more reasonable than at other places nearby. I haven’t eaten there yet but plan to try the food in the future.
