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Most people visit the Süleymaniye area of Istanbul for Süleyman the Magnificent’s mosque and tomb, but there are a few other minor points of interest. The area is included in the UNESCO World Heritage listing of the Historic Areas of Istanbul.
Tomb of Mimar Sinan
First, on the corner north of the Süleymaniye Mosque is the tomb of the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan (c. 1490-1588) (Mimar Sinan Türbesi). He designed his own tomb, which includes an octagonal fountain that dispensed drinking water. His tomb sits behind an iron grill.
At the time of his death, Mimar Sinan had designed or supervised the construction of 476 buildings. Of those buildings, 196 survive to this day. The include mosques, bridges, madrasas, tombs, hamams, palaces, caravanserais, hospitals, and other buildings.
Ağa Gate Palace
Across the street from the tomb of Mimar Sinan is the Ağa Gate Palace (Ağakapısı Sarayı). The building originally housed the Janissary Ağa (Yeniçeri ağası), who was the commander of the Janissaries. It dates back to at least 1555 but was destroyed by fire in 1660, 1750, 1771, and 1782, and was rebuilt each time. Sultan Osman II took refuge there until he was imprisoned at Yedikule Fortress and later executed by the Janissaries on May 20, 1622.
When the Janissary corps was abolished in 1826, the building was allocated to the Şeyhülislam (Shaykh al-Islam), who was the second most important religious leader of the Ottoman Empire behind the Sultan himself. The office of the Şeyhülislam was abolished along with the Ottoman Caliphate on March 3, 1924, and the building was given to the Istanbul Mufti. It still serves as the Istanbul Mufti’s Office (İstanbul Müftülüğü), which controls religious affairs in the city.
The Istanbul University Botanical Garden (İstanbul Üniversitesi Botanik Bahçesi) sits on the building’s property. It was established in 1935 and contains over 5,000 plants, trees, herbs, and shrubs. The botanical garden operations moved in 2018, but the garden at the Ağa Gate Palace is still available to faculty and students for educational and scientific purposes.
Hacı Mehmed Ağa Fountain
On Siyavuş Pasha Street is the Hacı Mehmed Ağa Fountain (Hacı Mehmed Ağa Çeşmesi). It’s a beautiful fountain that was in need of restoration at the time of my visit. I can’t find any relevant information about it.
Saman Emini Evvel Mosque
A further block east is the Saman Emini Evvel Mosque (Saman Emini Evvel Camii). It was built in the late 15th century. This small mosque is only open during prayer times.
Mirahur Hasan Ağa Fountain
Finally, a block south is the Mirahur Hasan Ağa Fountain (Mirahur Hasan Ağa Çeşmesi). It was commissioned by Mirahur-ı Evvel (Chief of the Royal Stable) Hasan Ağan and built in 1720. The fountain originally stood near the Giritli Mustafa Pahsa Han on Çakmakçılar Street in Mahmutpaşa. It was moved to its current location in 1937 and restored in 2009.
The fountain is made of cut limestone. The epigraph above the niche roughly translates to:
Hasan Ağa, who served wholeheartedly for a long time alongside Ahmed Khan, the Conqueror of many victories, is Mirahur-ı Evvel. This person, known for his generosity and having good morals, built such a perfect fountain that whoever drinks from its sweet water finds peace and joy; may Allah Almighty accept all his good deeds in the most beautiful way. Poet Hafiz made history with the sentence, “Hasan Ağa’s fountain is a similarity to the Ab-ı Hayat” for this fountain that attracts hearts.
Where to Eat in Süleymaniye
My only experience eating in Süleymaniye is at one of the kuru fasulye joints outside the Süleymaniye Mosque. I’ll have to try some more on my next trip.
Kurufasülyeci Ali Baba
Kurufasülyeci Ali Baba, which is located at the Evvel Madrasa, has been in business since 1924. I had an order of kuru fasulye and a side of rice. I’ve definitely had better.
