Last updated on .
Sarıyer is a village on the European side of the Bosporus in Istanbul, Turkey. It lies in the Sarıyer district between Büyükdere and Rumeli Kavağı.
Introduction to Sarıyer
Sarıyer was the site of the ancient Greek city of Phinopolis (Φινούπολις), which was founded on an earlier Thracian settlement. It was once a rural fishing community, but in the 18th century, Ottoman officials and other wealthy individuals started building their mansions and summer residences on the shores of the Bosporus. In the early 19th century, foreign embassies also started building summer residences in the area.
Sarıyer remained a sleepy fishing village until the 1950s and 60s, when locals from other parts of Istanbul “discovered” them as holiday destinations. With the construction of the coastal road, it became urbanized. By the 1980s, the area was full of apartments and houses spread inland on the hills as well. The Sarıyer district was established in 1930.
Today, Sarıyer is known for its fish restaurants and is a typical working-class settlement. People visit from other parts of Istanbul on weekends and holidays.
Getting to Sarıyer
The easiest way to get to Sarıyer is to take the Metro on line M2 to the Hacıosman stop and hop on the 25A, 25G, or 25Y bus, which all pass through the neighborhood. If you don’t mind sitting (or standing) on a bus for an extremely long time you could also take the 40 from Taksim Square; or the 40, 40B, or SRY-8 from Beşiktaş. The ferry terminal has service every hour or so on the City Ferry Lines (Şehir Hatları) from Eminönü and Beşiktaş.
Harbor Area
The harbor area is where you’ll find the liveliest part of the neighborhood. It features a promenade lined with lots of fish restaurants, a park, and of course the harbor full of fishing boats.
In the park in the center of the promenade, there’s a statue of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (c. 1881-1938). At the time of my visit, there was also a sculpture of a seagull emerging from a wave. The “Seagull Sculpture” was made by the Uçar Mermer company and was unveiled on March 19, 2019. It was removed in July 2024.
Former Military Police Station
Adjacent to the ferry terminal is the former military police station (Eski Karakol). It was built in 1911 and has two floors and looks like a medieval castle. The building has two towers and the upper floor was used as a barracks. Today, it’s used as the Military Officer Casino (Sarıyer Subay Askeri Gazinosu).
Kayseriliyan Yalısı
Walking south along the coastal road you’ll come to a few historic mansions. First is the Kayseriliyan Mansion (Kayseriliyan Yalısı), which was built by an Ottoman Armenian family. There aren’t many details about its construction, but it’s a three-story building with six wooden columns along the patio on the ground floor and a basement with an entrance. The columns support a second floor balcony that belongs to the master bedroom.
Eseyan Mansion
Next door is the Eseyan Mansion (Eseyan Yalısı), which was also built by an Ottoman Armenian family in 1874. The Neoclassical building has two stories atop a stone basement. The bay window on the second floor is a prominent feature. A cistern dating back to the Byzantine period was found next to it.
Kocataş Mansions
Next is the Said Pasha Mansion (Sait Paşa Yalısı) and Kocataş Mansion (Kocataş Yalısı), which were both built in the 19th century and previously owned by Necmettin Molla Kocataş (1875-1949), a former Minister of Justice. Today, they host the Six Senses Kocataş Mansions, a luxury resort with 43 guest rooms and suites, 3 restaurants and a lounge, a spa and hamam, boutique shops, meeting space, and other facilities.
The Said Pasha Mansion was in ruins and rebuilt for the opening of the hotel. I was able to capture the “before” picture while walking through the area in May 2011.
The Birth of St. John the Baptist Greek Orthodox Church
The Birth of St. John the Baptist Greek Orthodox Church (Ιερός Ναός Γενεθλίου Αγίου Ιωάννου Προδρόμου Γενή Μαχαλλέ / Aya Yani Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi) is hidden up a street in the Yeni Mahalle area, which is on the north side of Sarıyer. It was built in 1833.
Tomb of Telli Baba
Finally, on the north side of Sarıyer towards Rumeli Kavağı is the tomb of Telli Baba (Telli Baba Türbesi), a Sufi sheikh. According to sources, his real name was Abdullah Efendi and he served as an imam in the army under Mehmed the Conqueror. He’s considered one of the four protectors of the Bosporus. There’s a restaurant and café next to the tomb, which is visited by Muslim pilgrims.
