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Samatya is a pleasant neighborhood in the Fatih district of Istanbul, Turkey. It sits on the Marmara Sea between Yedikule and Cerrahpaşa.
Introduction to Samatya
Samatya is derived from the Greek word for the neighborhood, Psamatheia (Ψαμάθεια), meaning “sandy”, due to the high quantity of sand found there. It has been settled since the Byzantine period, and the first monastic institution in Constantinople was established there in 383. At that time, it was still outside the city walls. The entire neighborhood was destroyed in 1782 by one of the biggest fires ever recorded in the city. The modern name of the neighborhood is Kocamustafapaşa.
Greeks have lived in Samatya since at least 383 while Armenians were resettled there in 1458 by Mehmed the Conqueror. The area was also populated by Karamanlides, who are Turkish speaking Orthodox Christians from Cappadocia, after the Fall of Constantinople in 1453.
Samatya has a high concentration of Armenian and Greek Orthodox churches as well as some attractive back streets. You’ll find a few historic Ottoman buildings mixed in among ugly modern concrete structures.
Samatya Square
Samatya Square (Samatya Meydanı) is a good place to start exploring the neighborhood. This pleasant square is surrounded by plenty of meyhanes (tavernas) serving fish and seafood. It’s around the corner from the train station and a nice place to spend time.
Analipsis Greek Orthodox Church
There are several churches within a few blocks of Samata Square. First, to the south is the Analipsis Greek Orthodox Church (Θεία Ἀνάληψις Ὑψωμαθείων / Aya Analipsiz Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi). The first church was built on the site in 1566, probably on the ruins of a Byzantine church. It burned down in 1660 and again in 1782. The current building dates back to 1832 and has a central nave with two aisles.
St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church
Hidden around the corner is St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church (Ἅγιος Νικόλαος Ὑψωμαθείων / Aya Nikola Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi). The original church dates back to 1583 or earlier and was was destroyed after the Greek Revolution in 1821. It was rebuilt in 1830 and renovated in 1834.
Surp Anarad Hığutyun Armenian Catholic Church
A short walk up İmrahor İlyasbey Avenue is the Surp Anarad Hığutyun Armenian Catholic Church (Surp Anarad Hığutyun Ermeni Katolik Kilisesi). It opened to worship on November 27, 1857, by Armenian Catholic Patriarch Andon Hasun, and the architect was Andon Tülbentçiyan. In the courtyard is the Mesrobyan School, which was established in 1845 and is no longer active.
St. Minas Greek Orthodox Church
A few steps away, across the main road through Samatya, is St. Minas Greek Orthodox Church (Ἅγιος Μηνᾶς Ὑψωμαθείων / Aya Mina Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi). It was built in 1833 on the site of a church dedicated to St. Polycarp, which was built before 1604 and burned down in 1782. The architect was Konstantis Yolasığmazis.
The church is on a rectangular plan with a length of approximately 20 meters (66 feet), a width of 13 meters (43 feet), and height of 9 meters (30 feet). It features a central nave with two aisles, but the apse was destroyed during renovations. The church was seriously damaged during the 1955 Istanbul Pogrom.
The remains of a 4th century martyrion dedicated to Saints Carpus and Papylus sits underneath the church behind modern buildings. It was discovered in 1874. The structure, which held four tombs, was a rotunda with an inner circle of columns supporting a dome. The central chamber has a height of 5.7 meters (19 feet) and a diameter of 12 meters (39 feet). A Byzantine monastery also existed there as early as the 10th century, and there’s a holy spring dedicated to St. Minas on the church property.
St. George Kiparisa Greek Orthodox Church
A short walk east is St. George Kiparisa Greek Orthodox Church (Αγίου Γεωργίου Κυπαρισσά Υψωμαθείων / Aya Yorgi Kiparisa Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi). The origins of this church date back to the 9th century. A Byzantine church was built on the site in 1132. It was replaced by a newer building in 1577 that burned down in 1782, and the current church was built in 1834.
Surp Kevork Armenian Church
Winding through the streets to the north Surp Kevork Armenian Church (St. George Armenian Church / Surp Kevork Ermeni Kilisesi). It’s one of the largest churches in the Fatih district but difficult to see from outside the complex.
The church was originally constructed by Byzantine Emperor Romanos III Argyros in 1031 as part of the Monastery of St. Mary Peribleptos (Μονὴ τῆς Θεοτòκου τῆς Περιβλὲπτου). It was one of the most important Greek Orthodox monasteries in Constantinople and sits on the site of the 5th century Church of St. Stephanos. Romanos III was buried there in 1034.
The church was looted by Crusaders during the Sack of Constantinople in 1204 and was later given to Benedictine monks from Venice. Michael VIII Palaiologos restored the church after the end of the Latin Empire. The Greeks retained control of the church following the Fall of Constantinople, but Mehmed the Conqueror allocated it to the Armenians in 1461. They renamed it Surp Advadzadzin in 1490 and it served as the Armenian Patriarchate of Constantinople until 1643/44.
After a fire in 1660, three churches were built: Surp Yerrortutyun, Surp Kevork, and Surp Asdvadzadzin. The complex was renovated by Armenian architect Meldon in 1722, but it burned down on August 10, 1782, destroying 13th century Byzantine mosaics of Emperor Michael VIII Palaiologos (1224-1282), his wife Theodora (c. 1240-1303), and their son Constantine (1261-1306). Reconstruction took place in 1804.
Current Church
The current Surp Kevork Church was built between 1866 and 1887 with an endowment by Michael Hagopian and opened for worship on February 8, 1887. During World War I, the complex was confiscated by the Ottoman army and used as a military barracks from 1915 to 1918. It was damaged during the Istanbul pogrom in 1955 and a fire in 1960, and renovated in 1963.
The church is on rectangular plan measuring roughly 20 x 30 meters. The interior is covered by a barrel vault and features lavish decorations. The Turkish name is Sulu Manastır, meaning Water Monastery, due to a holy water spring on the property.
Sahakyan Nunyan Armenian School
The Surp Kevork complex is surrounded by the Sahakyan Nunyan Armenian School (Özel Sahakyan Nunyan Ermeni Okulu). It was founded as the Sahakyan School in 1461 and was the first Armenian school in Constantinople. It originally functioned in the monastery buildings as a religious school and served only male students. After 1789, it became a traditional educational institution, and in 1831 the Nunyan Girls’ School was added to the complex.
Both schools were damaged by fire in 1866. The girls’ school was rebuilt in stone by Kasbar Haçaduryan in 1872 and was renamed the Nunyan-Vartuhyan Girls’ School. His son, Mikael Kasbar Haçaduryan, later rebuilt the boys’ school. The buildings were confiscated by the Ottoman army and used as a military barracks during World War I from 1915 to 1918, and then as a shelter for Armenian refugees who survived the Armenian Genocide. After 1923, the schools reopened. They eventually merged to become the Sahakyan Nunyan Armenian School, a mixed kindergarten and primary school. The secondary school opened in 1960 and the high school was added in 1966.
Sancaktar Hayreddin Mosque
Walking a bit further east is the Sancaktar Hayreddin Mosque (Sancaktar Hayreddin Camii). It was originally built in the 14th century as part of a Byzantine nunnery, the Monastery of Gastria (Μονή των Γαστρίων), and probably functioned as a burial chapel. It’s built on an octagonal plan and has a cross-shaped interior with an apse.
The Monastery of Gastria, which translates to Monastery of the Vases in Greek. Legend has it that in 325, St. Helen, upon returning from Jerusalem with the True Cross, entered Constantinople at the Port of Psamatheia. She left vases containing aromatic herbs collected at Golgotha and founded a nunnery at the site.
In reality, no monastery existed in Constantinople until the last quarter of the 4th century. The Monastery of Gastria was actually founded by Theoktiste, the mother of Empress Theodora, and was first mentioned at the beginning of the 9th century. The church doubled as a mausoleum for the family of Theodora.
Shortly after the Fall of Constantinople, Hayreddin Efendi, the standard bearer of Mehmed the Conqueror, converted the building to a mosque and was later buried there. The building was damaged during an earthquake in 1894. It wasn’t repaired until between 1973 and 1976, including the addition of a new minaret.
SS Constantine and Helen Greek Orthodox Church
On the southern edge of Samatya, near the ruins of the Imrahor Mosque in Yedikule is the SS Constantine and Helen Greek Orthodox Church (Ἅγιοι Κωνσταντῖνος καὶ Ἑλένη Ὑψωμαθείων / Aya Konstantino Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi). It opened on April 6, 1805, on the site of a 16th century chapel, and the right arm and finger of St. Constantine were kept there.
The church was restored in 1833 and the bell tower was inaugurated on May 11, 1903. It’s on a rectangular plan and consists of a central nave with two aisles. The church has served the community of Karamanlides and was heavily damaged during the Istanbul Pogrom of 1955.
Where to Eat in Samatya
Samatya is popular for its meyhane (taverna) culture. We tried out one place.
Kuleli Meyhane
For a nice experience at a meyhane, check out Kuleli Meyhane on Samatya Square. It’s one of the oldest meyhanes in the neighborhood. I visited with a group of friends while exploring the area and we had a delicious lunch. Service was excellent and friendly.
