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Rumelihisarı is a neighborhood on the European side of the Bosporus in Istanbul, Turkey. It’s named for the 15th century Rumeli Fortress, which dominates the area. It lies in the Sarıyer district.
Introduction to Rumelihisarı
Rumelihisarı developed as a quiet residential district in the 17th and 18th centuries, well after Rumeli Fortress lost its strategic importance. It continued as such through the early years of the Turkish Republic, but like the rest of Istanbul has since experienced a period of growth.
Today, Rumelihisarı sits in the shadow of the Fatih Sultan Mehmed Bridge and retains a charming atmosphere. The neighborhood has spectacular Bosporus views and historic homes lining its steep streets. While the biggest attraction is still the fortress, it’s also a popular spot for Turkish breakfast, especially on weekends.
Getting to Rumelihisarı
To get to Rumelihisarı, you can take just about any bus heading north along the Bosporus from Kabataş or central Beşiktaş. The nearest ferry terminal is a few steps south in Aşiyan, which has regular service from Üsküdar on the City Ferry Lines (Şehir Hatları).
Yusuf Ziya Pasha Mansion (Borusan Contemporary)
One of the most recognizable landmarks in Rumelihisarı is the Yusuf Ziya Pasha Mansion (Yusuf Ziya Paşa Yalısı). It was commissioned by Yusuf Ziya Pasha (1849-1929), who would eventually serve as the Ottoman ambassador to the United States from 1910 to 1914.
Construction on the nine-story building began in the first decade of the 20th century. However, work halted with the outbreak of World War I, leaving the building partially unfinished for several decades. This gained it the nickname the Haunted Mansion (Perili Köşk).
The descendants of Yusuf Ziya Pasha sold the building to contractor Basri Erdoğan in 1993. Restoration was completed between 1995 and 2000 by architect Hakan Kıran, who stayed loyal to the original design and materials. This included importing red brick from the UK. The interior was redesigned as office space. It has roughly 5,000 square meters (54,000 square feet) of floor space.
Borusan Holding leased the building and moved their corporate there on February 16, 2007. They opened Borusan Contemporary, a modern art museum, in September 2011. The museum is open Saturdays and Sundays only from 10am to 7pm. Admission is 250₺ for adults and free for visitor under 12 and 60+ (as of May 2025). In addition to the museum, there’s a store and a café on the second floor with fantastic views of the Bosporus.
Ali Pertek Mosque
The Ali Pertek Mosque (Ali Pertek Camii) is a few steps from the Yusuf Ziya Pasha Mansion. Also known as Hamam Mosque (Hamam Camii), it was built in the 16th century by Ali Pertek Bey, an admiral in the Ottoman Navy. The exact construction date is unknown. The mosque was repaired in 1763. It closed in 1937 and fell into disrepair, but was restored and reopened in 1960.
Hacı Kemalettin Mosque
On the south end of the neighborhood, near the fortress, is the Hacı Kemalettin Mosque (Hacı Kemalettin Camii). It was originally a small mosque enlarged in 1743 by Sultan Mahmud I. The mosque is made of stone and brick and has a wooden roof. Inside is a Sultan’s loge. A fountain was added by Benlizade Ahmed Reşid Efendi in 1777 and the building was restored in 1940. There’s no information available about the mosque’s founder, Hacı Kemalettin.
When I tried to enter, although it was outside of prayer time, the doors were open, and others were inside, the caretaker refused to let me in. That’s the first time that has ever happened to me at a mosque in Istanbul.
Zeki Pasha Mansion
The Zeki Pasha Mansion (Zeki Paşa Yalısı) sits under the Fatih Sultan Mehmed Bridge. It was commissioned by Mustafa Zeki Pasha (1849-1914) and designed by Ottoman French architect Alexandre Vallaury (1850-1921). It’s one of the few stone mansions built along the Bosporus.
Zeki Pasha served as the head of the Ottoman Military Academy for several years and Marshal of the Imperial Ottoman Armory for 17 years. He was also one of Sultan Abdülhamid II‘s most trusted advisors. After Abdülhamid II was dethroned, Zeki Pasha was sent into exile. He was allowed to return and lived the rest of his life on Büyükada, where he died in 1914.
Sultan Mehmed VI purchased the mansion as a wedding gift for his daughter Sabiha Sultan (1894-1971). The Ottoman dynasty was exiled in 1924, and the mansion was sold to Zeki Baştimar, a descendant of Edhem Pasha (1844-1909). Today, it’s one of the most valuable properties on the Bosporus.
Surp Santuht Armenian Church
Heading up the hill you’ll come to Surp Santuht Armenian Church (Surp Santuht Ermeni Kilisesi). The original wooden church was built in the late 18th century and renovated in 1816. That same year, it was demolished and its trustee was exiled. The church was rebuilt in stone in 1856 and burned down in 1972. It was rebuilt again in 1978 under Patriarch Shenork I Kaloustian (1913-1990). Repairs took place in 2003 and 2011.
Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge
I can’t write about Rumelihisarı without mentioning the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge (Fatih Sultan Mehmet Köprüsü), which dominates the views of the neighborhood. It’s the second bridge built over the Bosporus and is named for Mehmed the Conqueror.
The bridge was designed by designed by Freeman Fox & Partners and BOTEK Bosphorus Technical Consulting Corp. Construction started on March 29, 1985, and was completed on May 29, 1988. It opened to traffic on June 3, 1988.
The Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge is 1,510 meters (4,950 feet) long and 39 meters (128 feet) wide. The main span is 1,090 meters (3,580 feet) with a clearance of 64 meters (210 feet). The towers are 105 meters (344 feet) high. When it opened, it was the fifth longest suspension bridge in the world.
Where to Eat in Rumelihisarı
I’ve only had one meal in Rumelihisarı, and it was for Turkish breakfast.
Fani Bosphorus Restaurant
I stopped into Fani Bosphorus Restaurant (formerly Buba’s Breakfast & BBQ) for a late breakfast on a weekday. In addition to very good breakfast plates, they serve a variety of traditional Turkish dishes and pizzas. Prices are reasonable and service is decent. The restaurant is right along the main road next to the Yusuf Ziya Pasha Mansion.
